Some laugh at taking the extra steps needed to cover North Hall of the SEMA Show, after miles have been logged in Central, South and outside. For the real wrenches in the group however, it's where we start—that's because SEMA's North Hall area hosts all of the tool-related booths along with many paint and aftermarket finishes. It also has a surprising amount of top-tier builds and surprises in store.

Browse through some of our favorites in the gallery above and watch the video too for an inside look... we especially dug the light-up paint by LumiLor. Yes, you read that right. It's paint and it lights up. You can apply it like normal paint (with a step or two extra,) then it connects with a battery source and it lights up! Serious Tron action and we can't wait to try it.

What was your favorite part of North Hall? Catch all of Driving Line's SEMA 2017 coverage here.

By now, you've likely watched the video, got up to speed on the Jeeps of JKX, and read the complete recap. Just when you thought all of the epic Nitto Tire JK Experience content was over, we throw in a little more! It's impossible to capture every incredible moment on the week-long journey, but we try our best. We know you're interested in seeing more, so we've put together a gallery of some of our favorite snaps from this year's trip.

Thinking about building a JK for adventure? Learn the basics first.

Admit it. You’re guilty of this. That wonderful red Harbor Freight Tools coupon book somehow made its way into your mailbox once again—and as you thumb through its pages, your imagination goes wild. Visions of no longer using a breaker bar to undo lug nuts because you now have an impact gun and compressor run through your mind. Or, finally saving money on fabrication because you have your own welder and lathe. You tell yourself you’ll quickly stop by on your way home, just to pick up some extra shop towels or batteries. Two hours and $200 later, you walk out of Harbor Freight with full cart, a slightly lighter debit card and a smile, because you feel like the master of savings! But we’re here to tell you that not everything from Harbor Freight is gold.

While there is definitely a list of great values that keep our editorial staff shopping there, we feel it’s important to know what to spend your hard-earned cash on and what to leave on the shelf. Follow along with this list to get the most out of your own Harbor Freight Tools shopping spree...

1. Jack Stands | DO

We approve! Go ahead and spend the money on these Pittsburgh jack stands. They’re nicely powder coated, plenty strong, and work the same as any other brand. Just get the correct size for the weight of your vehicle.

2. Floor Jacks | DON'T

While these floor jacks tend to work for a while, we’ve found that their lifespan doesn’t match those of other, more expensive brands. Leaky seals over time cause a loss of hydraulic fluid, which can become dangerous.

3. Reciprocating Saws | DO

Everyone has heard of a Sawzall, but Harbor Freight has their own, more affordable, version of a reciprocating saw that we’ve used before, and it works just as well. Most situations that warrant this tool aren’t emergency situations, enabling us to leave it's longevity more up to fate.

4. Saw Blades | DON'T

This is an area you want to splurge a bit more. Do yourself a favor and stick to the higher-end brands, like Milwaukee for instance, for your reciprocating saw blades.

5. Magnetic Wall Hangers | DO

Many of Harbor Freight's most useful items make organizing your garage much easier and within a budget. Magnetic wall strips and trays make it easy to quickly stick a few tools and hardware to during a job, so you can spend more time working and less time looking for stuff.

6. Tool Boxes | DON'T

If you’re anything like us, you might open your tool box drawers 100 times in one weekend of wrenching. Harbor Freight’s tool boxes may look neat and resemble more expensive brands, but the devil is in the details. The drawer slides, locking mechanisms and overall quality just doesn’t really constitute the savings.

7. Tool Carts |DO

Harbor Freight tool carts, however, are a good investment. These are usually worth the price, and make bigger projects in the garage easier to manage.

8. Welders | DON'T

Just don’t do it. There’s a good reason why Lincoln and Miller welders are so expensive. While affordable, we wouldn’t use a Chicago Electric welder for anything other than an art project.

9. Ratcheting Wrenches |DO

If you’ve used these but never owned a set of your own, you should pick up a set of Pittsburgh ratcheting combination wrenches. A set of these from a tool truck will set you back a nice chunk of change, but Harbor Freight's are fully affordable. They make life much easier when it comes to those hard-to-reach bolts, and they haven’t failed us yet.

10. Mechanic’s Tool Sets | DON'T

Unless it’s Christmas time, your nephew just got his first car and you lack imagination, don’t bother buying one of these. Most of these sets are missing some essential sizes, and come with a few things you’ll likely never need on a car.

11. Socket Sets | DO

Like the combo wrenches, you should buy a few sets of these to have as backup in case you lose your everyday use sockets.

12. Transfer Pumps |DON'T

Trust us when we say these should come with a roll of shop towels. Plain and simple, they leak. And a leaking transfer pump means it can’t even transfer fluid. There’s better ways to do whatever you’re doing with this.

13. Creepers |DO

Why not? It’s just a slab of plastic with wheels on it, and it’ll be easier on your back. While Harbor Freight creepers may not be as comfortable as others, they definitely get the job done for less. Bonus points if you can find the molded plastic ones on super sale—they're definitely worth it!

14. Winches |DON'T

OK you Jeep guys, listen up. When it comes to recovery equipment on your rig, you want to do it once, and do it right. A winch should be a last resort for getting un-stuck, so do you really don’t want to skimp out on it? Probably not. Save your pennies and go buy a Warn.

15. Moving Blankets |DO

Big value alert! If you've never kept a store of these, you wouldn’t believe the usefulness of these things. These thick-padded blankets, while cheap, provide a nice cushion for anything fragile. Setting parts down on the floor feels much better with a moving blanket under them. Alternatively, you can use moving blankets to lay on top of when working under the car—if you don’t have a creeper, of course.

16. Test Guages | DON'T

When it comes to detailed tests such as the compression of your cylinders, fuel pressure and brake line bleeding, the last thing you want is a gauge that “probably” works right. Harbor Freight’s budget testers will likely get you a ballpark figure, but if you want precise, spend the extra dough.

17. Extendable Ratcheting Drivers |DO

This might just be Harbor Freight's most useful hand tool. Who enjoys switching out drivers while trying to undo a bolt? If you need more leverage, simply extend the handle out, and voila! That bolt came loose and you didn’t even take the socket off the hardware. Pretty neat tool, and priced fairly too.

18. Solar Panels |DON'T

Hey overlanders, if you’re going to spend $55,000 on a Toyota SUV, try to spend more than $20 on your roof-top solar panel. There’s no telling how efficient or weatherproof their panels are, so we just won’t take the risk.

19. LED Lights | DO

Talk about an awesome stocking stuffer. Harbor Freight has a great selection of LED lights in all shapes and sizes for under ten bucks. Definitely a great value for their usefulness, because you can never have enough light.

20. Epoxy | DON'T

Yeah Harbor Freight might have their own version of JB Weld and Loctite, but don’t bother the small savings, just go with the brand name stuff. It’s proven, and not much more expensive.

21. Drill Bit Sets | DO

Again, extra is always good. You may have more important uses for your nice drill bits, so having a cheaper set around for smaller projects isn’t a bad idea.

22. Air Compressors | DON'T

The big ticket items, although seemingly comparable, just don’t last as long as their more expensive counterparts. Harbor Freight's compressors are no exception to this. We would rather pay somebody on Craigslist for their used DeWalt any day.

23. Combo Wrenches | DO

It’s always good to have a few extra sets of wrenches around, and they’re cheap enough to lose a here and there.

24. PVC Air Hoses | DON'T

A good air hose doesn’t form to whatever shape it’s rolled up into. Do you really want to spend half your day working out kinks and awkward bends in your air hose? We didn’t think so. Go with a more durable, heavier duty brand.

25. Impact Sockets | DO

Harbor Freight has a wide variety of black impact sockets, and they aren’t too shabby. We have yet to break one with our compressor, and they’re thin-walled enough to take lug nuts off too. Another good “extra” set to have in your arsenal.

26. Impact Guns | DON'T

While their sockets are cool, don’t buy the gun from them. While the specs may match some of the better brands, the longevity doesn't. Save your cash a bit longer to buy a nice Makita or Milwaukee gun. We’re not saying to take a loan out for a Snap-On impact gun (unless your work load warrants it), but there are definitely better options for not much more money.

27. Zip Ties |DO

Buy as many of these as you possibly can fit into your cart. Any REAL shade-tree mechanic knows the utility of a zip tie, and therefore he/she knows the value of buying 100 of them for three bucks.

While there are plenty of examples of things Harbor Freight is great for, we find it helpful to know what to put in our cart and what to walk past. After all, the savings usually mean new/more parts for whatever we're working on, so it’s a win-win. We hope this article helps guide you the next time a new coupon book slips through your junk mail and you find yourself browsing those aisles once again!

Like anything, everyone has an opinion—let us know in the comments your best or worst purchase from Harbor Freight.

Here comes the cool down… Freezing temperatures are gradually inching into the Midwest and northeast—and the mountains out West have already seen snow. Is your diesel ready for winter? Now’s the time to check the health of your batteries, ensure your block heater is operating correctly and stock up on your favorite fuel additive. And trust us, if you were thinking about buying new tires soon, there is no time like the present to throw some fresh tread on each corner.

While countless measures can be taken to ready a diesel vehicle for winter weather, we’ve narrowed it down to the top seven here. We can’t stress this to diesel owners enough: be proactive when it comes to preparing your work horse(s) for the cold. If you treat them right, they will always take care of you. Follow this basic checklist and your oil burner will be sure to survive Old Man Winter’s wrath.

1. Test Your Batteries

It’s not a coincidence that this one is first on our list. Dead batteries are the most common reason diesel owners are left stranded in the winter. Unbeknownst to many, a long, hot summer does more to damage our batteries than any other season. This is because fluid evaporation and corrosion is accelerated during warmer temperatures. Then, without us noticing our battery’s cold cranking amps have been reduced, we end up with an engine than turns over slower (warning sign) or one that starts fine one day, but is dead in the water the next.

The easiest way to check the health of your batteries is with a multimeter. Simply adjust your multimeter to any voltage setting higher than 15 volts, connect it to the battery leads and look for a reading of at least 12.6 volts. Then, with a helping hand, make sure voltage doesn’t dip below 10 volts while cranking the engine over. If either of those readings is low, you likely have a weak and/or dying battery. With the engine idling, voltage should check in between 13.7 and 14.7 volts. If possible, and because one good battery can mask the dying symptoms of the second battery on a diesel, pull your batteries and have them load tested at your local parts house. If your battery(s) fail any of the above test procedures, don’t chance it. Start with fresh units.

2. Test Your Block Heater

For trucks that live outdoors, a block heater can make or break them in cold weather. First and foremost, if your truck didn’t come from the dealer with a block heater and you live in a northerly climate, get one installed ASAP. If you do have one, it pays to inspect its functionality each year, before the weather goes south. Like an on/off switch, block heaters either function or they don’t—there is no in between. To test yours, simply attach the leads of your multimeter to the block heater plug’s prongs and set the multimeter to read ohms. Anything between 9 and 25 ohms indicates a working block heater. Less than 9 ohms and you may have a bad cord.

Block heaters are so effective they can even help fire up a truck that’s suffering from a few bad glow plugs, glow plug controller, or relay. In our experience (with a 7.3L Power Stroke), coolant and oil temp will increase roughly 10-12 degrees per hour while plugged in, with 130 degrees seeming to be the top-out temperature. There is a huge difference between trying to crank over an engine at zero degrees and one with 100 degrees of heat in it (think about how quickly your truck re-starts after being brought up to operating temp). One last word of block heater advice: don’t leave it plugged in 24/7. It’s best to have it connected to an outdoor timer that kicks on a few hours before you plan to start the truck.

3. Test Your Glow Plugs (if applicable)

Cummins owners need not heed the advice listed in this one (you guys don’t have glow plugs). For Power Stroke and Duramax fans, it’s hard not to notice the effects of having a bad glow plug or two in frigid conditions. Duramax and 7.3L Power Stroke mills in particular are notorious for eating glow plugs. Luckily, GM owners will be tipped off via a check engine light as to when a glow plug fails, as well as exactly which cylinder it is. On top of that, the glow plugs are located externally on the Duramax (near the exhaust manifolds), which makes replacing them a tad easier.

In the 7.3L Power Stroke’s case, the glow plugs are located under the valve covers—and these older trucks don’t necessarily throw a CEL when one decides to stop functioning. When diagnosing a glow-plug-related issue, it’s best to break out the test light and first check the glow plug relay’s functionality (they’re known to corrode, internally). If the relay checks out, unplug the under valve cover harness (UVCH) plugs, have a helping hand turn the ignition on and test the outsides of the connectors, followed by the insides of the connectors. If the test light doesn’t illuminate during the ladder test, you’ll be making a trip under the valve covers for further diagnosis.

4. Run a Lighter Weight Engine Oil

Prolonged sitting in freezing and sub-zero temps not only has the potential of gelling up the fuel in your truck (more on that in a minute), but it can also transform heavier weight engine oils into molasses. Upon initial startup during an average spring, summer or fall day, your engine sees oil pressure almost instantly. On colder days, oil pressure is a hair slower to build, but is still pretty quick. In arctic-like temps, the cold flow characteristics of most 15-weight engine oils are compromised, considerably. If you’re waiting 15-to-30 seconds before you see oil pressure, that’s a substantial amount of time for the bottom end of your engine to go without proper lubrication.

In particular, it’s extremely beneficial when 6.0L Power Stroke owners switch to a lighter weight oil. This is because the 6.0L’s HEUI injection system relies on engine oil to activate the fuel injectors—and thick, syrup-like oil doesn’t flow very well through the tiny passageways within the injectors. A 5-weight oil works wonders on these engines (as does a 0-weight) and helps solve a lot of its cold-start issues.

5. Use a Reputable Fuel Additive

Although refiners do a fairly adequate job lowering the cloud point of the fuel we buy at the pump, it can still gel up in conditions where temperatures dip below 20 degrees (F). To ensure the diesel in your tank continues to resist gelling, we recommend running a winter-specific fuel additive or at least an all-season blend. The chemical makeup of winter-use additives makes fuel more resistant to clouding up and crystalizing, disperses water without the aid of alcohol (alcohol is hard on injection system components) and offers a bump in cetane (i.e. energy).

Yours truly has always preferred the Stanadyne line of additives (a pint of its all-season performance blend is shown above). The way we see it, a company that builds injection pumps and injectors probably knows which additive is best to keep those components alive. If Bosch or Denso ever offer an additive, that too would have instant credibility in our opinion. For those of you living in the upper Midwest, northeast or Canada, add winter-blend fuel additive at every fill up.

6. Keep a Spare Fuel Filter in the Truck

In addition to starting with a fresh fuel filter(s) before winter hits, always keep a spare in the cab. The fuel filter location is the most common point for gel-ups, especially on aftermarket fuel systems mounted along the frame rail and not under the hood on the engine. It’s much easier for the minimal amount of fuel present in the filter to freeze overnight than the fuel in the tank.

For added insurance, we would also advise keeping a small amount of emergency fuel treatment on hand as well. Products such as Amsoil’s Diesel Recovery and Power Service’s Diesel 911 are designed specifically to dissolve gelled fuel and get you back on the road. However, emergency treatment fuel additives shouldn’t be used on a regular basis due to their harsh chemical makeup.

7. Buy New Tires NOW!

While the first six winter-prep tips are geared toward getting your engine started and operating safely in the cold, this one is paramount in getting you from point A to B. Trust us, if you’re ever going to need better traction, chances are it’ll be during the winter months. Don’t put off buying new tires.

For snow-covered highways and roads, choose an all terrain or light duty mud tire over an aggressive tread pattern. While large void mud tires work great off-road and in mud, their voids actually put less surface area in contact with the road, which can mean reduced traction. The Nitto Ridge Grappler, Terra Grappler G2 and original Terra Grappler are all great enablers for effective traversal of snow.

Western Indiana isn’t exactly known for the diversity of its terrain—and it’s the last place you would expect to find an off-roaders paradise. The state’s general makeup consists of corn and soy bean fields, with the sporadic grouping of grain bins and patches of forest mixed in. Yet, just south of the small town of Attica, Indiana, tucked in behind middle class homes with well manicured lawns, the Badlands Off Road Park exists.

Despite encompassing only 800 acres, the sheer variety of different terrain present at the Badlands makes the park feel much larger. With wooded trails to traverse, creeks to pass through, mud to sling, sand to roost, hills to climb, rocks to crawl over and small ponds to cross, there is truly something for everyone. After a 15-year layover, yours truly finally made it back to Attica this year—and while there, I made sure to see a little bit of everything.

Hitching a ride with the Rough Rangers Off Road Club (RRORC), I was reminded why the Badlands remains one of the premier venues to wheel in the Midwest. Our motley crew included a host of Jeeps and Ranger-based vehicles (RBV's). Our fun kicked off at the rock garden before the group moved on to one of the park’s shelved rock sections. After that, the entertainment shifted to the park’s creek crossings, hillclimbs and mud holes.

For $20 a day ($10 to ride shotgun), it’s a pretty affordable way to experience some of the best wheeling you’ll find in the middle of the country. Read on for 9 reasons why we love Badlands Off Road Park...

1. Muck and Mire

The Badlands’ mud playground area is a lot of fun. Holes range from mild to moderate and deep to bottomless. The variety of mud holes makes this the perfect spot for both the guy on 33-inch mud terrains or the hardcore bogger on tractor tires. Here, an impromptu mud bog is about to ensue in one of the moderately deep holes we stumbled across.

2. Why did the Jeep Cross the Pond?

Pond crossing anyone? At the edge of the park’s mud playground, we spotted this enormous puddle and waited until someone felt like challenging it. A lift and larger tires were definitely a requirement to traverse this water hole—and the ’17 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon pictured here was sporting a Zone Offroad 4-inch lift, 37-inch tread and made relatively quick work of it.

3. Hills and Trails for All Skill Levels

Although none of the hills you’ll encounter at the Badlands are long, drawn out or super steep, a few are moderately challenging. As for the trails, they’re color-coded according to difficulty level, which takes the guess work out of the path you choose to follow through the woods. Hint: orange means it’s an expert level trail while yellow denotes the easiest route. The combination of the wide array of trails and their color-coding makes wheeling the Badlands a fulfilling experience for both a beginner and a seasoned off-road enthusiast.

4. The Tubes

One of the Badlands’ well-known landmarks is the pair of gigantic drain tiles positioned along the river trail. The massive culverts sit underneath a dirt trail above them and, as you can see, they’re big enough for virtually any size Jeep, SUV or RBV to pass through. At the end of the “tubes” (as they’re often referred), you’re dropped down into a large pool of water.

5. Deceivingly Deep

How deep that pool of water is at the end of the tubes is usually unknown. At the height of summer or during drought-like conditions you won’t find a lot of depth. Visit the park anytime shortly after or during any amount of precipitation accumulation and you’re getting wet. Here, 4WD.com’s Tom Schnarrenberger drops a 40-inch tire-equipped JK into the drink.

6. Side by Sides, ATV’s and Dirt Bikes

In addition to finding Jeeps, SUV’s and other full-size off-road rigs at the Badlands, you’ll also see dirt bikes, ATV’s and especially side by sides. The latter seemed to outnumber quads by a 2:1 margin when we paid a visit to the Badlands back in July. Here, Sara Oaks sticks the landing in her 900cc Polaris RZR XP while perusing through one of the park’s many sizeable sand dune sections.

7. Puddle Blasting

Some of the park’s mud holes are a bit thicker than others—even swamp-like, but that didn’t stop anyone in our group from plunging into them. Here, the lone GM product in our triage (an ’03 Trailblazer) blasts through a knee-deep mud puddle.

8. The 80/20 Split

As we understand it, roughly 80-percent of the Badlands’ riding area is open to everyone. The other 20-percent restricts ATV’s or dirt bikes from entering certain sections. For example, no ATV’s are allowed in the rock section (which makes sense because they won’t get very far, anyway). Additional areas restricting ATV access can be found in the deeper creeks we navigated in our Jeeps and RBV’s.

9. Technical Rock Sections

Venturing into the Badlands’ rock gardens and shelved rock sections brings out the best of everyone’s technical driving skills. Lockers, gear reduction and tire selection pay big dividends in this region of the park.

Badlands Off-Road also plays host to Ultra4 races, see how the big guys tackle this terrain here.

A few years back when Chevy introduced the supercharged C7 Z06 Corvette with its 650 horsepower supercharged V8 - the big question was "How are they gonna top this with the ZR1?". After years of rumors, speculation and spy shots...

It's time to officially say hello to the 2019 Corvette ZR1

Unveiled over the weekend in Dubai, the ZR1 could be the swan song for the front engine C7 Corvette platform—before it's replaced by an all-new mid-engined car for the next generation model.

There's nothing dramatically different about the new ZR1, but it does represent a faster and more capable machine in every possible manner. Starting under the hood, you'll find a supercharged V8 dubbed the "LT5," featuring a larger Eaton blower, and is good for 755 hp—a figure that is not far off from the Dodge Demon, a much heavier car.

In addition to having the extra power over the already crazy Z06, the ZR1 is available with a number of aerodynamics upgrades including a standard front underwing and an adjustable rear wing and front splitter that are part of a ZTK Performance Package.

With such serious aerodynamics and big power, Chevy says the C7 ZR1 will be capable of going over 210 miles per hour, making it not only the most powerful production Corvette ever, but the fastest as well.

The new ZR1 will go on sale next spring, and while pricing hasn't been announced, speculation says the MSRP should be around $120,000—continuing the Corvette tradition of incredible performance for the buck. If this is indeed the last front engine Corvette, it sure is going out with a bang.

One of the best car shows in California isn’t held on a golf course overlooking the Pacific Ocean or a large convention hall, but rather on the campus of a design school in the sleepy hills of Pasadena. The ArtCenter Car Classic continues to bring the wildest and rarest cars from the renowned design school—drawing an eclectic gathering from pre-war vehicles, and hot rods to multi-million dollar hypercars.

1. 1958 ICON Rolls Royce Derelict

ICON is known for their through restorations of vintage 4x4’s. In recent years, they've expanded their expertise into a "Derelict" line, creating what they like to call “modern rides with vintage vibes.” Derelict's retain their exterior patinas, while the real work is skin deep.

We joined Jonathan Ward with ICON, to spend an evening with another Derelict, read about it here.

Under the hood, this ’58 Rolls Royce packs a LS7, along with updated suspension and Brembo brakes to back up the increased horsepower.

Just like the exterior, the interior is very unsuspecting. Again, don't be fooled–modern technology and amenities are lurking behind that original-looking facade.

2. Faraday Future FF ZERO 1

The Faraday Future FF ZERO 1 is what happens when you ask designers to create an unrestricted vision of the future. Clamshell cockpit, wild fins, spoilers and diffusers–the FF ZERO 1 looks like something straight out of an anime.

Penned by the same designer as the BMW i3 and i8, the 1,000 hp electric concept takes design to the next level.

3. Infiniti Prototype 9

The Infiniti Prototype 9 was inspired by the Grand Prix race cars of the '30s.

Underneath the sleek aluminum body and “drum brakes” is an all-electric powertrain and modern disc brakes.

4. Callaway Corvette Aerowagen

Two door wagon? Corvette with a tall hatch? Corvette Shooting Brake? Whatever you call it, call it amazing. Callaway replaces the C7 Corvette’s stock rear hatch with a slightly taller one. The extra room makes enough space for 3 golf bags.

The Aerowagen isn’t all party in the back though. Up front, Callaway strapped on their GenThree Supercharger bringing the Aerowagen’s horsepower up to 757 hp.

5. 1927 Lancia Lambda 7th Series

The Lancia Lambda 7th series was a car ahead of its time. It was one of the first cars to have a unibody chassis, independent suspension and shock absorbers.

Unlike cars of its day with their square rear ends, the Lambda 7th Series had a sloped one. And, not to take away from rear seat passengers headroom, the rear passenger-area roofline had a raised area.

6. Rick Dore Customs Shangri-La

Rick Dore creates another elegant roadster—combining classic French design with American hot rod style.

The exterior panels were hand-formed from sheets of raw aluminum.

7. Citroen DS

Like the Lancia, the Citroen DS was another car far ahead of its time, due to its unique design features and advanced engineering—it truly looked like nothing else on the road!

8. Blastolene Brothers Creations

The Blastolene Brothers, including Mike Leeds and Baron Margo, turn cars & motorcycles into rolling works of art. Their style is an eclectic mix of steampunk, rat rod and whatever else might strike their imagination.

These wild creations are based on production cars and can be driven on public roads.

We've got even more coverage, see what showed up at last year's ArtCenter Car Classic here .

In the world of racing games, there are few titles more respected than Gran Turismo—Sony's iconic driving simulator which debuted on the PlayStation console in '97. It's a game that would influence gamers, drivers and real world carmakers alike, introducing millions to the world of motoring culture and car tuning with its ever expanding scope and dedication to realism.

Needless to say, it's a big deal every time a new Gran Turismo game is released and last month, after years of waiting, Polyphony Digital released Gran Turismo Sport, the first GT release since 2013's Gran Turismo 6 and the first to be developed for the current PlayStation 4 console.

After spending two weeks playing through Gran Turismo Sport and exploring its features, we've found a game that's at the same time familiar as well as very different from its predecessors. Does it still have the magic in an increasingly competitive racing sim market? Here are some of our game playing impressions...

Incredible Visuals

First things first. Gran Turismo Sport looks absolutely fantastic. GT games have always pushed the limit when it comes to visuals, and this one takes full advantage of PlayStation 4's graphics capabilities. Additionally, those playing on a PS4 Pro console will be treated to even more impressive visuals, including 4K resolution.

Whether you are watching a race replay, using photo mode or playing around with the game's deep "Scapes" feature, GT Sport's graphics are at another level. The cars are hyper detailed of course, but it's really the lighting model that sets things apart. The result is a racing game that's about as close to photo-realistic as we've ever seen.

Improved Sound Effects

If there was one area where previous GT games clearly lagged behind the competition, it was in the sound effects department. We are happy to say that GT Sport's audio is much improved, with exhaust notes that have more character, and cars that sound more like their real life counterparts.

The sounds of the cars and the ambient noises might not be quite as visceral or theatrical as Forza Motorsport 7 or Project CARS 2, but it's a massive improvement from the infamous vacuum cleaner sound effects that plagued previous titles in the series.

The Online Experience

When GT Sport was first announced, it was stated that the focus would be on competitive online racing, and it's clear that's where the majority of development went. The multiplayer features are impressive—with rotating weekly events, series championships, qualifying sessions and sportsmanship ratings to help separate clean drivers from overly aggressive ones.

In many ways, it feels like the formula established by the popular PC sim iRacing, though that subscription-based game offers infinitely more options when it comes to racing disciplines, real world tracks and vehicles.

We tried our hand at several different online races, and found the experience to be much improved over other console racing games. There's no doubt that Polyphony did their homework when it came to developing an online racing ecosystem, but it's sill hard to imagine many hardcore sim racers making the jump over from their PCs. Of course, there will always be those who have little interest in competitive online racing, and those are the people who will likely be most disappointed by GT Sport.

Skimpy Single Player

Ever since the original Gran Turismo of the '90s, GT games have all shared a similar formula—you'd start off by purchasing a cheap, used car then enter it into your first races. Prize money would help to upgrade your humble machine before eventually moving to more exotic vehicles and purpose-built race cars.

Unfortunately, that part of the classic Gran Turismo single player experience has all but been removed from GT Sport. There are single player arcade races, time trials and drift challenges to do, but there are no vehicle upgrades to purchase, no real career mode and no feeling of becoming one with your car despite how beautiful they look.

There is a campaign mode—but it's made up of single player challenges in the way previous GT games featured license tests, with some "missions" expanded to include long distance races with fuel and tire management.

Indeed, it can be challenging and addicting trying to get gold on all of these events, but chances are you will get through them all relatively quickly and won't be left with a whole lot to do afterwards. And be warned, if you don't have an internet connection or the game's servers are down, almost all of GT Sport's features will become unavailable and your progress will not be saved.

Cars & Tracks (or lack thereof)

In previous releases, Gran Turismo games were known as "CarPGs" packed with hundreds upon hundreds of cars to collect, modify and race. Not just flashy exotics and race cars, but vehicles representing all corners of the globe and all eras of history. Who can forget the fun of battling it out in painfully slow Daihatsu kei cars or transforming your old Honda CRX into a potent track weapon?

This is another area where GT Sport takes a big step back. At the moment, the game's car roster includes just 162 vehicles, many of which are different versions of the same model, spec'd for various racing classes.

Those who are fans of classic cars will also be disappointed to find that GT Sport includes just one car built before '09. Forza Motorsport 7 meanwhile offers 700 different cars going as far back as the '30s, and Project CARS 2's 180-car roster is much more diverse.

Equally important is track selection, and here again GT Sport falls short of its competitors with just 17 locations, 40 layouts and no weather options. The courses themselves look great, but there just isn't a whole lot to keep you coming back. It's also disappointing that none of the series' iconic original tracks have returned, because it'd be awesome to see Grand Valley or Trial Mountain with GT Sport's graphics.

The GT Feel

Even with the trimmed down content and focus on multiplayer at the expense of the single player experience, GT Sport is not a bad game by any means. It still has great driving physics and the menu presentation, music and general atmosphere of the game still has that classy, uniquely Gran Turismo feel.

Overall, the game just feels a little underwhelming given how long gamers have been waiting for a new GT release. That and the relative lack of depth compared to other current racing games.

Polyphony Digital has promised that more content will come to GT Sport, but it's unclear how much will be added and whether it will be paid or free. It's also unclear whether this a precursor to a traditional Gran Turismo 7 release in the future, or if the days of numbered GT games are gone. Time will tell which direction the franchise goes.

There's no doubt GT Sport has potential to be great, and these days video games can evolve greatly from their release day form. We certainly hope these promising bones become the basis for the deep, next generation Gran Turismo game that so many have been waiting for.

By now, it’s well documented that a considerable amount of horsepower can be stacked on top of the average Power Stroke, Duramax or Cummins bottom end before problems arise. However, the real question is—how far can you push the factory rotating assembly before something goes boom? One common misconception is that higher rpm will kill a diesel engine. Not true. On the contrary, limiting fueling at low rpm and running an engine upstairs in the rpm range is actually much safer on bottom end parts, namely, connecting rods.

Since we as enthusiasts like to deal in maximums, this article was written in an effort to answer the age-old question of “How much?” and in this case we’ll spell out how far you can generally push the factory short block in each Power Stroke mill.

Starting with the 7.3L and covering the 6.0L, 6.4L and current 6.7L, we hope the following information helps you keep the diesel powering your Ford in its proverbial safe zone.

7.3L: Forged Vs. PMR

The 7.3L Power Stroke remained mostly unchanged throughout its near 10-year production run. Sure, power ratings increased and a new high-pressure oil pump, injectors turbocharger, fuel pump and PCM debuted in ’99 (aboard the version that graced the first Super Duty’s), but most of the engine’s internals remained virtually the same from ’94.5-‘03. However, one big difference was phased in starting with ’01 model year trucks: powdered metal connecting rods. The aftermarket would soon find that the powdered metal rods (known as PMR’s) couldn’t handle the type of stresses the previous, forged-steel rods found in earlier engines could.

*Note: ’94.5-’00 engines featured forged rods, while most ’01-’03 7.3L’s were equipped with PMR’s

Forged-Steel Rods

Without a doubt, the forged-steel 7.3L rod is the one you want if you plan to make considerable power with your ’94.5-’03 Ford. The general consensus on forged rods is that 600-rwhp (roughly 1,100 lb-ft) is obtainable and survivable, so long as it’s made with sound aftermarket tuning. What exactly is sound aftermarket tuning? The ability of your calibrator to wait until higher engine speeds before calling for an aggressive ramp-up in injection timing. Too much timing down low (say 1,600 to 2,000 rpm) produces extreme cylinder pressure (i.e. torque)—and too much cylinder pressure will net you bent rods just like in the photo above.

Threshold for Pain: 600 HP (1,100-1,200 LB-FT)

Powdered Metal Rods

While the forged steel rods bend rather than break, the powdered-metal versions typically snap clean off when they fail. There’s no warning, no gradual drop in compression or increase in blow by. They come apart and can literally destroy everything, often rendering the block irreparable. The rough limit for PMR’s is 450-rwhp and/or 900 lb-ft of torque, although many still call it quits near the 400-rwhp, 800 lb-ft mark. We have seen one PMR-equipped truck make over 600-rwhp and 1,100 lb-ft—but the engine lasted less than a year.

Threshold for Pain: 450 HP (850-900 LB-FT)

The Problematic 6.0L is Surprisingly Stout

Despite the 6.0L Power Stroke receiving a (deserved) bad wrap for its design flaws, emissions system shortcomings and temperamental nature, its bottom end is quite robust. Equipped with a bed plate from the factory (unlike the 7.3L), main cap walk is a non-issue and the engine’s short stroke and four-valve cylinder head lends itself to an engine that prefers to live at higher rpm. In its natural state, the 6.0L experiences less rod-bending torque.

A Much-Stronger PMR

Like the rods found in late 7.3L engines, the units found in all 6.0L Power Strokes are manufactured using powdered metal. However, the rods used in the 6.0L are vastly stronger than what was employed in the 7.3L. When the same tuning theory is applied (waiting until higher rpm before pouring on the fuel), the 6.0L rods can handle as much as 800-rwhp (and 1,300 to 1,400 lb-ft) before they’re officially on borrowed time. This is why, outside of the extreme side of the aftermarket, you don’t see a lot of 6.0L engine builds receiving billet rods.

Threshold for Pain: 800 HP (1,300-1,400 LB-FT)

Anything Can Happen…

Not all engines are created equal. And, not all owners run reputable performance parts. While the 6.0L Power Stroke’s rods are capable of handling 800-rwhp, the owner of this ’04 F-250 managed to send one through the block at the 500-rwhp level. Poor tuning, which called for obscene timing at low rpm and an injection control pressure value the HEUI system would never be able to achieve, produced a big torque figure below 2,000 rpm (i.e. high cylinder pressure) which ultimately led to a connecting rod leaving the block.

6.4L Weak Link = Pistons

When it comes to the 6.4L Power Stroke, you’re more likely to damage a piston before hurting a connecting rod (although we’ve seen crummy tuning bend rods at the 550-rwhp mark). The factory cast-aluminum pistons are known to crack in both high horsepower and completely stock configurations. When a piston fails on a lower horsepower engine it’s usually attributed to high mileage fatigue. When it happens on a higher horsepower engine, most blame the piston’s design. When pursuing big power, it’s common for enthusiasts to opt for the heavy-duty pistons found in International’s MaxxForce 7 engine (the 6.4L’s single turbo, commercial-duty brother). The MaxxForce 7 piston features a larger bowl and a different style lip to better cope with heat. In the 6.4L aftermarket, it has a reputation for holding up to 1,000-rwhp or more. A fly-cut and thermal barrier coated MaxxForce 7 piston is shown above on the left vs. a factory 6.4L Power Stroke piston on the right.

Compression-Resistant

As far as the 6.4L’s connecting rods are concerned, they’re the burliest units to ever reside inside a Power Stroke. With the right combination of air (turbos), fuel (injectors and high pressure fuel pumps) and especially tuning, they’re capable of handling more than 900-rwhp and 1,500 lb-ft of torque. In all-out competition, we’ve even seen numerous 6.4L-powered ’08-’10 Super Duty’s clear four-digit power without issue. When rod failure does occur, it typically happens on trucks with compound turbo arrangements, where excessive boost was accompanied by drive pressure that got way out of hand (100+ psi).

Threshold for Pain: 900+ HP (1,500-1,700 LB-FT)

6.7L: Latest But (Arguably) Not Greatest

There is a lot to like about the 6.7L Power Stroke. In particular, its injectors can support as much as 700-rwhp without modification (along with a second high-pressure fuel pump and the right turbos in the mix). However, in an effort to lighten up the rotating assembly, Ford chose a connecting rod that is considerably smaller (material-wise) than what was employed in the 6.4L. In fact, a factory 6.7L rod is smaller and weaker than the one found in the 6.0L. As far as numbers go, 700-rwhp (and 1,300 to 1,500 lb-ft) puts the 6.7L’s powdered-metal connecting rods on the brink of destruction.

Threshold for Pain: 700 HP (1,300-1,500 LB-FT)

Draw the Line at 700 Ponies

If you’re venturing past 700-rwhp, an aftermarket set of connecting rods is highly recommended. Several horsepower junkies with windowed blocks and rods in pieces can attest to this. Due to the amount of low-rpm torque the 6.7L Power Stroke can produce, it behooves enthusiasts to upgrade rods anytime plans to run compound turbo configurations are on the table. Both Crower and Carrillo (pictured above) make an aftermarket rod capable of handling pretty much anything you can throw at these engines.

While the old fashioned quarter mile drag strip is still considered by most to be the ultimate proving ground for high horsepower cars, in recent years there's a been a big shift to longer half mile events with rolling starts, usually held on a shutdown airport runway.

Here, the focus is less on perfect launches and reaction times and more on putting a car's power to the test. With both stock and modified cars becoming more powerful than ever, these longer tracks really allow high powered cars to stretch their legs—and the result is incredibly fun to watch.

When it comes to half-mile roll racing events, no one does it better than Shift S3ctor who hosts their Airstrip Attack events in California, Oregon and Colorado. Recently, Shift S3ctor returned to the Coalinga Municipal Airport in Central California for its fall Airstrip Attack event and we headed out to get a look.

Whether it was car owners looking for head-to-head grudge matches that wouldn't be possible at a normal drag strip, or drivers simply looking to see how fast their machine would go in a half mile, there was a constant parade of wild machinery heading down the runway. From screaming exotics to heavily modified muscle cars and homebuilt tuner cars, there was no shortage of excitement to be had and speed records to be set over the weekend.

We'll be back shortly with a closer look at some of the vehicles competing in the event, but for now let's set the scene with a gallery (above) of images from this highly popular event.

Nothing tests the limit of Man vs. Machine like the Baja 1000. Brutal, unpredictable terrain—it stretches the endurance of not only the machine, but also the man. A physical and mental test like none other, the race sees world-class racers, hobbyist hot rodders and celebrity enthusiasts gather in Ensenada each November to take on the challenge.

An exhibit at the Petersen Automotive Museum in 2013 brought together many relics of the race's history—and shows not only an evolution of the race but also brings to life it's history. For those less familiar with the race, read on to find out how it began and why it continues to hold such a respected place in endurance racing.

The original concept of an endurance run down the Baja peninsula started in 1962 with motorcycle stuntman, Bud Ekins. He'd been approached by Honda asking for a publicity stunt to promote their new Honda CL72 Scramblers. Ekins suggested the Baja Peninsula... the rest is history.

The First Baja 1000

Taking off from Tijuana at Midnight in March of 1962, Bud's brother Dave Ekins and Bill Robertson Jr. embarked on the very first "Baja 1000" run. They had carefully planned out their 963-mile route and had both support teams and multiple checkpoints along the way. 39 hours and 56 minutes later, Ekins arrived in La Paz—sending a telegram to document his time. Four hours and some mechanical issues later, Robertson limped to the finish on one cylinder.

After that initial timed run, other people began privately making the trip—pitting themselves against the clock and the elements. Like any autosport, specialized modifications began being made. As decades passed, the highly technical vehicles we see in the modern Baja 1000 evolved.

Meyers Manx is Born

Bruce Meyers, a surfboard shaper, was the next to follow Ekins for using Baja as a publicity stunt. He’d modified the dune buggies that were popular around So Cal beaches—making a lightweight, fiberglass body atop Volkswagon running gear. Mimicking the ’62 run, Bruce set off to test his '64 Meyers Manx “Big Red”—cutting off five hours from Ekins' and Robertsons' initial journey and setting a new 4-wheeled Baja record. Meyers buggies continued to do well, winning the first official “Mexican 1000” in 1967.

The Baja 1000 Route

From ’67 on, the Baja race has gone on in one form or another every year, save '74. SCORE took over as sanctioning body of the race in '74, with Sal Fish continuing to oversee its preparations and execution until recently. Running anywhere between 650 to 1,100+ miles—the race course changes yearly. Sometimes it runs in a loop, both beginning and ending in Ensenada and other times it's a peninsula run, beginning in Ensenada and running down to La Paz. The course includes a little bit of all terrain; rocks, sand, dirt and the dreaded silt.

The Baja 1000 now attracts over 300 entrants who compete in more than 30 classes and growing… which still includes a class for the beloved Baja Bug.

Another First... Riding Triumphs

Bud Ekins, the man responsible for the first run in '62, couldn’t take part initially—he was a Triumph dealer and the project involved Hondas. Four years later, the Ekins brothers, along with a couple friends, did the Baja trip riding Triumphs—two rode TR-6s and two were on TR-5s. These four bikes endured, completing faster than the ’62 time and without the ground support.

The bike below is a replica of one of the Triumph TR-6s from that trip. Bonus points if you can locate the clever attachment of tools via electrical tape and C-clamps on the TR-6.

Continuing to Build

Over the years, modifications centered on engines, lighter and stronger chassis and lights. This 1971 Husqvarna 400 combined a lightweight steel frame and a powerful 395cc engine. A hugely successful bike in motocross during its time, this example just happens to be the exact bike that Malcolm Smith rode in the final scene of Any Given Sunday alongside Steve McQueen and Mert Lawwill.

The Baja 1000 began for publicity, and it continues to be used towards that purpose (along with many people in it for the glory). In '72 a Swedish bike maker, Monark, entered this tiny 50cc Monark Schoolboy Scrambler not to win the race, but to finish—thus helping to promote its product back home. It not only finished, but placed 6th in the 125cc class!

Harley Davidson in Baja

Harley Davidson’s have had their share of success in Baja as well. The large ground clearance of the '70 Harley Davidson Baja 100 proved popular for desert racing. In the '71 Baja 1000, 8 out of 10 top places went to Harley’s.

Simple Modifications and Beyond

With a race that takes more then 24 hours to complete, nighttime conditions can pose problems. When you’re traveling in unknown off-road situations, at the fastest speeds possible, being able to see is a huge advantage. Eventually someone had the “bright” idea of adding two lights instead of one. This 1994 Kawasaki KX500 took it a step further with three lights!

In the early '90s, Trophy Trucks began infiltrating desert racing. In a class all their own, Trophy Trucks are unlimited when it comes to modifications. Tube frames, fiberglass bodies, high horsepower engines and specialized suspension makes them beasts in this terrain. They're first to take off from the start line at events nowadays, as a Trophy Truck is the last thing a less-capable vehicle wants to see in their rearview mirror.

Ivan Stewart became the first solo driver to win the Baja 1000, in 1993, doing so in his '84 Toyota.

The first man to attempt solo driving on a motorcycle during the Baja 1000 was Mike “Mouse” McCoy. The year was 2002 and his attempt is documented in the popular movie Dust to Glory. Riding on a Honda XR650R, a highly competitive and very successful bike of its day, using an aluminum box frame with a liquid-cooled 649cc engine, Mouse demonstrated that the fight isn’t only Man vs. Machine, but also Man vs. Self.

It seems the struggle against ourselves has always been the underlying drive in man's long story with automobiles, and particularly within racing. While fighting these machines and taking them to the edge, we’re also pushing ourselves to the limit. No matter how far technology takes us, we’ll always want to go further.

Enjoy a few more pieces of the Baja 1000 from the Petersen exhibit and watch for more Baja 1000 coverage coming at you from Driving Line.

The Braving Baja: 1,000 Miles to Glory exhibit was featured at the Petersen Automotive Museum in 2013.

This article is a revised version of one originally published on Driving Line in May of 2013.

See what's coming for you during the 2017 50th Annual SCORE International Baja 1000, here.

The 2017 50th Annual SCORE International Baja 1000 is just getting kicked off and we couldn't be more excited! This non-stop race is the thing that legends are made of, with its first "official" run happening in 1967 under the banner of the Mexican 1000. It was a Meyers Manx that won the trophy that year, that revered place is now reserved for Trophy Trucks (though we're waiting to see if this might be the year for an Ultra4 build.) The 2017 race has over 400 entries and will run 1,134.40-miles from Ensenada to La Paz.

Who will win this year? You'll just have to watch and see. Catch coverage on all of our Driving Line channels—you can also see partial livestreaming from SCORE here. Watch some of the vehicles going through contingency today in Ensenda in our LIVE Facebook video below and stay tuned.

Not sure what all the Baja hype and history is? We've got you covered, read our Baja 1000 Basics.

The biennial Tokyo Motor Show has wrapped up its 2017 event, themed "Beyond the Motor." Running over 10 days, the show features some legendary classics, new releases and of course everyone's favorite concept cars.

Over 770,000 people walked through the doors to view the latest and future offerings from domestic manufacturers, as well as 13 foreign manufacturers. With 380 vehicles on display, there was something for everyone, even if you are not a fan of cars. The variety of vehicles included cars, trucks, busses, motorcycles and personal transport devices. There was even a mobile refrigerator from Honda on display.

Tokyo Motor Show Highlights

Compared to the previous Tokyo Motor Show in 2015, this year's did not have quite the same wow factor—brought by the debuts of the Mazda RX Vision or the Nissan 2020 Vision Gran Turismo. But, Mazda still made waves with this year's Mazda Vision Coupe and Kai Concept.

Toyota brought out their big guns for both their Toyota and Lexus brands. The Lexus LS Concept was equally as stunning as the Mazda Vision Coupe. The RC F and LC 500 were also beautiful—hopefully more people will start to use them as a customizing platform.

The Toyota Concept-i family of cars and personal mobility devices gave a glimpse to how Toyota feels AI will influence the way we drive in the future. With a personal assistant AI, some may love their cars even more than real people if Toyota's vision comes to light. The combination of composites and lighting made the cars feel more like mobile living spaces than cars.

Probably the biggest surprise was Honda's vision of the future with NeuV, Urban EV Concept and Sports EV Concept. With a mix of fun design and LED messaging, these are the cars Honda thinks everyone will be driving. The Urban EV features design cues similar to that of the Honda Civic hatchback, while the Sports EV definitely has a feel of the classic Honda S600.

Other models that caught our attention were Volkswagen's I.D. Buzz, Nissan's IMx, and the Subaru VIZIV Performance Concept. While branded as a cross-over, the VIZIV seems like it would be a natural design evolution for all the Subaru models. Who'd like to see a VIZIV competing in WRC in a few years time?

Take a view of all the new concepts and releases at this year's Tokyo Auto Show—then let us know what you think in the comments below.

One car we couldn't wait to get a closer look at during SEMA Show 2017 was this twin-turbocharged '64 Dodge Polara built for Jesse James by the famed Roadster Shop. Sitting pretty (those who like patina would say) in Honeywell Garrett's booth, we got an inside look of this muscle machine firsthand. With tons of custom features that have been finished off to a level we've come to expect from the crew at Roadster Shop, glance around with us in the video above and read on for the full spec list and gallery at bottom.

Specs: '64 Dodge Polara "Hill Country Hustler"

Keep browsing the gallery below and watch above for 360 VR look-around the "Hill Country Hustler" Polara.

Continuing on with our Threshold for Pain series, it’s time to reveal the breaking point(s) for the Bow Tie camp. Even though GM’s iconic 6.6L Duramax V-8 has proven capable of producing in excess of 500-rwhp with relative ease (aftermarket tuning and a higher flowing turbo), it definitely has its limits when you venture much beyond that point. For those looking to pursue 550 to 600-rwhp on ’01-’05 model-year engines (LB7 and LLY, respectively), connecting rods will be the first weak link in the chain. In later versions (namely the LBZ and LMM mills), piston failure runs rampant once the ’06-’10 trucks are exposed to 650-to-700-rwhp. Depending on which model year Duramax you own, we recommend using the following information as a guide to keep your Dmax in its respective safe zone.

Make sure you tune in for the final threshold for pain installment, where we divulge the power levels that place the B-series Cummins on the brink. It comes your way next!

LB7 Duramax (’01-’04)

Thanks to the Duramax’s high-pressure common-rail fuel system, high-flowing, 32-valve aluminum cylinder heads (which incorporate six head bolts per cylinder) and full support from EFI Live, it doesn’t take much to crest the 500-rwhp mark in a diesel-powered Chevy or GMC built between 2001 and 2016. As for the pioneer of the Duramax nameplate, the LB7, the connecting rods are usually the first to go in the factory bottom end. It’s widely accepted that you begin to play with fire once the 600-rwhp has been breached—but others believe 550-rwhp is a more realistic stopping point.

Bent Rod = Drop in Compression

As is common with most forged-steel connecting rods, they tend to bend rather than break, which means the original block is typically salvageable in a rebuild. When compared to the connecting rods used in later code engines (the LBZ from ’06-’07 and LMM from ’07.5 ‘10), the LB7’s forged-steel units lack the same amount of meat in the lower beam area. On top of that, the LB7 (and the LLY that followed it) featured 17.5:1 compression: the highest compression ratio ever offered on a Duramax. It’s inherent for an engine with a higher compression ratio to produce more cylinder pressure (i.e. low-end torque), and the primary recipient of cylinder pressure other than the piston is the connecting rod.

LB7 Threshold for Pain: 550 to 600 HP (1,100-1,200 LB-FT)

LLY Duramax (’04.5-’05.5)

Incorporating the same connecting rods and 17.5:1 compression ratio as the LB7, the LLY Duramax adds another element of stress to its short block’s hard parts: a variable geometry turbocharger. While variable geometry turbochargers help eliminate “turbo lag” in modern diesel pickups, they do so by restricting exhaust flow. This exhaust flow restriction leads to elevated drive pressures over what you would find on an LB7 (and other engines equipped with a fixed geometry turbo) and drive pressure can be just as hard on connecting rods as boost. It’s unfortunate that the same technology that makes the LLY so drivable can also contribute to its undoing once higher horsepower is sought, but such is the case for many engines benefitting from variable geometry turbo technology.

It’s ALL in the Tuning

As we stated in the Power Stroke edition of this series, good aftermarket tuning goes a long way in preserving the life of a stock bottom end. Your calibrator’s ability to move your engine’s peak cylinder pressure (torque) higher in the rpm range makes all the difference in the world. With spot-on EFI Live tuning, we’ve seen plenty of stock bottom end LB7 and LLY trucks with fuel and turbo mods making (and more importantly, surviving) 650-to-700-rwhp.

LLY Threshold for Pain: 550 to 600 HP (1,100-1,200 LB-FT)

LBZ Duramax (’06-’07)

With its beefier, I-beam style forged-steel connecting rods, the LBZ version of the Duramax came with a slightly higher threshold for pain than its LB7 and LLY predecessors. Thanks to having approximately 10-percent more cross sectional area in the lower portion of its rods, they’re better suited to coping with elevated cylinder pressure. Add to that the fact that the LBZ came with a lower compression ratio (16.8:1) and it’s in this mill’s DNA to naturally produce lower peak cylinder pressure when compared to the LB7 and LLY. However, its cast-aluminum pistons are notorious for cracking near or beyond the 650-rwhp mark. Unlike a bent connecting rod—where the truck can still be driven even though it’s down on compression—a cracked piston means a dead cylinder.

That’s Gonna Leave a Mark

Equipped with 60-percent over injectors, a 10mm (“stroker”) CP3 and a compound turbo arrangement that made use of a variable geometry charger in the valley, the owner of this LBZ wasn’t surprised when his 700-rwhp truck started to smoke, produce excessive blow by and develop a miss. When an LBZ piston cracks, it typically does so along the center line of the wrist pin, as shown above. Lesser quality castings from suppliers and/or a lack of material in the wrist pin area (due to its incorporation of wrist pin bushings) are often blamed for OEM piston failure—but it may be the combination of both, plus the possibility of sub-par cooling, that causes it. In nearly all cases, street-driven LBZ-powered trucks experience this type of failure long before competition-only ones do.

LBZ Threshold for Pain: 650 HP (1,200-1,300 LB-FT)

LMM Duramax (’07.5-’10)

Sharing the same rod and piston assemblies as the LBZ, it’s no surprise that the Achilles Heel for the LMM Duramax is also its pistons. Just like the LBZ platform, drawing the line at the 650-rwhp realm is a strong recommendation in the aftermarket. While truck pullers can get away with making a few passes a week at 700-rwhp, a daily-driven truck at that same power level won’t last long. Over the years, we’ve seen countless street-going ’06-’10 GM’s outfitted with bigger injectors, a higher flowing CP3 or dual CP3’s and compound turbos—all of which cracked a piston inside of 15,000 miles. For ultimate peace of mind, do yourself a favor and build the engine first if you plan on pushing past 650-rwhp. That way you can enjoy your power, reliably.

LMM Threshold for Pain: 650 HP (1,200-1,300 LB-FT)

LML Duramax (’11-’16)

Though the cast-aluminum pistons used in the LML Duramax are lighter and were originally rumored to be stronger than the units found in LBZ and LMM models (on account of GM doing away with the wrist pin bushings), we haven't seen it proven so in the aftermarket. Just like the LBZ and LMM mills, power production anywhere near the 700-rwhp mark can still spell disaster for LML pistons.

..It Happens

Just because cracked pistons are more common than connecting rod failures on the LML Duramax, doesn’t mean that’s always the case. In the photo above, an LML-equipped ’13 Silverado making a dyno validated 808-rwhp on the factory (low-mile) rotating assembly ended up with several bent rods and a corresponding drop in compression. This same Duramax would eventually be torn down and beefed up with aftermarket rods, stronger pistons and various other upgrades.

LML Threshold for Pain: 700 HP (1,200-1,300 LB-FT)

L5P Duramax (2017+)

The verdict is still out on GM’s latest Duramax, the L5P—and it may be for a while. With zero success infiltrating the ECU, aftermarket tuners have not yet been able to see what the latest generation 6.6L is capable of. But, that doesn’t mean we can’t speculate. After all, with a Denso HP4 high-pressure fuel pump (used on large displacement John Deere engines), Denso G4S Gen III injectors and the engine being graced with its highest-flowing cylinder heads to date—as much as 600-rwhp might be on the table right out of the gate (i.e. tuning only).

But what will the bottom end handle? With connecting rods stated to be 20 percent stronger than what was found in the LML and re-melted (for superior thermal fatigue strength) cast-aluminum pistons onboard, the L5P Duramax might possess the sturdiest rotating assembly to date.

L5P Threshold for Pain: Not yet known

Only time will tell what the newest 6.6L on the market can do. What's the Power Stroke's Threshold for Pain you ask? Read about it here.

Trucks are back in a big way. While lifted trucks dominated the 2017 SEMA Show, we're noticing a trend of lowered and classic pickups coming back as well. Ford was by far one of the more prevalent brands at this year's SEMA, with Blue Oval builds lining the inside and outside of the Las Vegas convention center. To give you a glimpse at the Ford pickups on hand, we put together the video above of two dozen of the most eye-catching from the show.

Want to see some Fords in motion? Check out our coverage of Rudy's Diesel Fall Truck Jam.

As we saw in our gallery from Shift S3ctor's recent Airstrip Attack at the Coalinga Municipal Airport, half-mile roll racing events are continuing to grow in popularity—and each event brings out an incredible variety of cars.

When it comes to high horsepower runway battles, there are many different weapons to choose from. Here are a few of the most common cars on the runway, along with one off-the-wall build that caught everyone's attention.

Exotic Pedigree

From a pure sensory standpoint, one of the best things about Airstrip Attack are the exotic cars. Sure, you can see them crawling around on the highway or parked on the streets of Beverly Hills, but roll racing events are where they're allowed to run free.

Among the exotics running this time around were several Lamborghinis, including a pair of Huracáns, a handful of Audi R8s and a small group of McLarens, including a brand new 720S painted in an electric orange color.

While you can certainly take an exotic to the drag strip, some would argue a quarter mile isn't enough to contain one of these machines. That's certainly the feeling you get when watching them roll through the half-mile marker at speeds in the 200MPH neighborhood.

If there's one bad thing about owning an exotic car, it's the lack of places to enjoy one without getting thrown in jail. Airstrip Attack is the perfect place to let it rip without fear of the law. If I were fortunate enough to own one of these things, this would be a must-do event.

Corvette Mania

Few car models are more popular among the roll racing crowd than the late-model Chevrolet Corvette. C5, C6 and C7 Corvettes are easily some of the most common cars at Airstrip Attack and among the group are a variety of builds from mild street cars to full race machines.

There were several brand new showroom-fresh Corvette Z06s with the owners hoping to see what kind of numbers their supercharged V8s would reach at the end of the half-mile. Or, if you prefer naturally aspirated V8s, there were plenty of of big-cammed C6s banging gears down the runway also.

But of all the Corvettes in attendance, none were crazier than Morris Malone's heavily modified C6 built by Caliber Customs. It's one of the most serious half-mile builds in the country, outputting 2,000 horsepower from its fully built turbocharged V8.

The car is still being dialed in, but over the weekend it set a new best trap speed of 223MPH, making it the fastest 2WD vehicle ever to run down the Coalinga runway. Plus, it sounds like there's still plenty of speed left to extract. We can't wait to see what it does next.

The Almighty GTR

Along with the aforementioned Corvettes, the other dominant car at Airstrip Attack is the R35 Nissan GT-R. It's amazing to think it's been a decade since the R35 first went on sale, and in the years since it's become one of the world's most dominant tuning platforms.

As with the 'Vettes, the selection of car's mods ranged from mild bolt-on builds to full on race cars, purpose built to attack the runway. While the GT-Rs might carry more weight than the Vettes, the way they put their power down is simply unmatched.

Sure, the GT-R's AWD traction helps at the start of the run, but the power keeps on coming at the top end making for some incredible trap speeds. It's amazing to think that a "stock" 600 horsepower GTR is considered "low end" by Airstrip Attack standards.

As the R35 platform continues to age, the entry prices will only drop further—allowing more people to jump in on the fun. If you want a 1,000 horsepower street car with as little drama as possible, it's hard to top the GT-R.

Supra Forever

Years before the R35 arrived on these shores, there was another turbocharged Japanese import legendary for its ability to create massive horsepower—the fourth generation Toyota Supra.

With all the brand new high tech machinery at Airstrip Attack, it was nice to see a group of nicely built JZA80s representing one of the most beloved tuner cars ever to come out of Japan.

Compared to many of the modern, high tech engines powering cars at Airstrip Attack, the venerable 2JZ-GTE straight six is quite old school—but when it comes to making horsepower, there's nothing obsolete about it.

The 2JZ's ability to produce power is timeless, and so too is the styling of the fourth gen Supra. Despite being nearly 25 years old, the design is still as attractive as any car out there—and it's really no wonder why these things are still in such high demand.

A...Studebaker?

Besides all the usual players—the GTRs, Corvettes, 911s and so forth—each Airstrip Attack event also brings out a few oddball cars that stand out from the crowd. This time around we were greeted by this wild '63 Studebaker Avanti.

Airstrip Attack events are dominated by late model cars, and whenever a classic car shows it's bound to get a lot of attention, especially when it's as funky as an Avanti. And if the race-spec interior and parachute on the back weren't enough to turn your head, then the 700 hp boosted V8 under the hood surely is.

In addition to Airstrip Attack, the car has also run at events like the Texas Mile and Mojave Mile and has even done duty as a traditional quarter mile drag car.

The little Avanti quickly became a crowd favorite because it was so much different from anything else running and is the perfect way to close out this look at fast and exciting ways to get yourself down a half-mile stretch of closed-off runway.

See more from Shift S3ctor's Airstrip Attack in our gallery, here.

One of the great things about racing games is that there's room for everyone to enjoy with them. Whether it's the fantasy fun of Mario Kart or the hyper realism of a modern PC sim, there's plenty of space for each game to carve out its own niche.

EA's long running Need for Speed franchise was once one of the industry's most influential driving games, but in recent years has struggled to find an identity in a crowded market. Two years ago, a rebooted Need for Speed was released featuring real life car culture personalities and extensive visual customization. This year, NFS returns with Need for Speed Payback—an open world arcade racer set in the fictional, but heavily Vegas-inspired, locale of "Fortune Valley."

With so many big racing games on the market this fall, it can be tough determining which are worth your time and money. Is NFS Payback the right game for you? Here are few things we liked about the game and a few things we didn't.

Eccentric Car List

While Payback's car list isn't huge by modern video game standards, EA and Ghost Games has done a great job of including a strong variety of cars—and not just the usual supercars. There's are lot of cool and quirky machines to be bought, from the Volvo Amazon to the Buick Grand National. And, now that off-road racing is part of the mix there's an even larger variety to be had with the ability to convert normal cars into Baja-style racers that look quite cool.

Blatantly borrowing a page from the Forza Horizon series, Payback also features "Derelict" cars which have to be discovered and repaired by finding hidden parts spread across the game's map. While the car list is diverse with some cool options to please hardcore gearheads, collecting and building up different cars in Payback is unfortunately not as easy or enjoyable as it is in other games, but we'll get to that in a moment.

Visual Customization

One of the best features about the last Need for Speed was its deep visual customization features - and that has returned for NFS Payback. Whether it's making custom liveries, fitting dozens of body parts, or the huge selection of aftermarket wheels and more, the game sets a high bar in this department.

There's a group of folks at Ghost Games who have a deep love of car culture and have gone through a lot of effort to share that in NFS Payback—which is chock full of real life car parts and some really cool attention to detail. But is the depth only skin deep? How does it feel once you get out there and start driving?

Physics & Action

Once behind the wheel, NFS Payback is not too different from the last Need for Speed game. Over the course of the game you'll be tasked with normal racing, drifting, drag racing, running from the cops and racing off-road. Those looking for a simulation experience likely won't be playing an NFS game in the first place, as the physics of the game clearly fall into the arcade realm but that's doesn't have to be bad thing.

There's not really anything wrong with Payback's gameplay, and the variety of events is nice, but there's just nothing that puts a huge grin on your face the way other great arcade racers have in the past (cough, Burnout, cough).

For example, the police chases in the game don't require you to outsmart the cops but simply to get away from them by reaching check points—and the off-road racing feels like the normal racing only with more jumps and less grip. Again it's not bad, it's just kind of unremarkable.

The "Story"

Chances are, when you are looking for a racing game a fictional narrative isn't high on your priority list, but that's exactly what you get in this game—with a group of racers and their quest for revenge on a criminal group called "The House" being a huge part of Payback's premise.

We wont go into details of the paper-thin plot, other than to say it takes itself way too seriously and features some forgettable, hollow characters. While the idea of playing a car action movie sounds promising, all of Payback's big Hollywood-style stunts are shown via cut-scenes rather than actual playable moments. The parts you do control are pretty standard arcade racing fare. The idea was clearly to capture the fun of the Fast & Furious franchise, and it didn't really work.

Frustrating Grind and Head-Scratching Upgrade System

Of course the story elements can be ignored pretty easily, but there are other negatives that can't be passed over. First up, there's the modification system. In just about every other racing game made over the last 15 years, upgrading your car was a simple process—you'd spend your prize winnings on the parts you want to make your car go faster, handle better, stop quicker, etc.

NFS Payback has completely done away with that in favor of a convoluted, confusing and just plain bad system that involves "shipments" and "speed cards" to upgrade certain areas of your cars performance as if you were playing an RPG. The cards you're awarded in-game can be completely random—making upgrades of your car a long and frustrating process, often requiring repetition of the same races over and over again in hopes of getting the speed card needed.

And your car WILL need to be upgraded, because race events give a recommended performance rating and if your car isn't within a few points of that rating you will be totally left in the dust by the faster cars of the AI racers. Even worse is the fact that speed cards can't be transferred between cars, meaning if you want to try out a new car you'd better be prepared for even more grinding to stay competitive.

Overall, the speed card system feels like a damaging fix to something that wasn't broken—but when you realize players can purchase shipments using real money, it becomes too clear that the long grind and randomness is all there by design. The idea being to persuade players to drop some real life money to get ahead—and its negative impact on the game is significant.

It's disappointing, but is a movement seen beyond NFS Payback. We've seen many other games where publishers have added micro-transaction systems on top of full priced titles and they've received a lot of criticism for it—but sadly, this looks like it's the future of big budget games, racing or otherwise.

The Verdict on Need for Speed Payback Review

Ultimately, despite some promising features and great visual customization, the frustrating upgrade system and overall grind of the game take a lot of the enjoyment out of NFS Payback. Those looking for a fun, arcade racing experience with a wealth of content will probably be better off sticking with something like last year's Forza Horizon 3 which offers a lot more bang for the buck and a more complete open world racing experience.

When it comes to the VIP car scene in America, few shops are more respected than Autofashion USA in San Diego, California. For more than a decade the shop has been on the cutting edge of VIP trends and each fall they throw a celebration known as the Autofashion VIP Festival.

Traditionally held the weekend immediately after the SEMA Show, the Autofashion VIP Festival is one of the biggest events of its type in America—and it typically includes lots of guests from Japan, the birthplace of the Bippu scene.

And while Japanese VIP cars are the main focus, you'll also find European imports, classic JDM machinery and even some lowriders getting in on the fun. All of that has made the AF VIP Festival one of Southern California's best car meets and the perfect change of pace after the craziness of SEMA.

Check out the gallery above for some scenes from this year's event before we return with a more in depth look on the evolution of VIP style in the United States.

The SEMA Showis known for the wild assortment of over-the-top and one-of-a-kind builds. But, at its core, SEMA is all about the parts. More so to that, it's about innovation. Each year, manufacturers from around the globe come to SEMA to show off their latest products and future concepts. While there were plenty of new Jeep products being launched at the show, none were quite as radical as the Rego Rex fully independent suspension conversion designed for the 2007 to 2017 Jeep Wrangler. 

The Rego Rex system comes from Israel of all places and the company is currently looking to team up with a US manufacturer to get it out to the marketplace. We spent a little time talking to Rego's lead engineer and getting details on how the system works, which we've broken down in the video above. While an IFS/IRS conversion might be a little polarizing for some, there are plenty of scenarios where this system could be superior to a traditional live axle setup.

We know, we know, put down the pitchforks. Long live the solid axle under the Jeep Wrangler! Trust us, we get it. However, once you consider that the conversion nets you 20 inches of vertical wheel travel (double that of stock), the bolt-on kit doesn't see that blasphemous. The system even uses your stock wheel outers, so you can retain your factory wheel bolt pattern and OE wheel speed sensors.

It's a pretty substantial conversion in that you're getting more than just a long-travel coilover suspension system. While the front is configured similar to a long-travel A-arm suspension, the rear is a bit more unique with the arms pivoting from the back of the chassis. Both the IFS and IRS portions use a 3-gear aluminum housing portal gear boxes to feed to 300m axleshafts fit with RCV Performance CV joints. The cross-shaft architecture of the system is what allows for such long travel without axleshaft binding.

Diehard Jeep enthusiast may cringe at the idea of an IFS/IRS Jeep, but this conversion may prove to be useful for those looking to go fast off-road and refine the ride quality on the tarmac. Is it for everyone? Not by any means. But, we dig the idea of a Jeep Wrangler that handles off-road like a UTV. Hopefully, we'll see more of these hitting the market early next year.

Not digging IFS? Check out a more conventional solid axle upgrade.