Our photographic hunters captured the new, 2021 Ford F-150 Raptor prototype out in the wild. This test vehicle looks like it has spent some time on a dirt track of some kind, given the amount of mud caked around the wheel wells. The new Raptor doesn't stray from what made it a success, and even with all the camouflage, it looks tough and ready to handle anything off-road related.

The fact that the rear underpinnings have a curtain to disguise it, almost certainly indicates that Ford is keeping the new coil-spring suspension system under wraps until the official release.

The most exciting thing about the new Raptor is the fact that one of the options will be a supercharged 5.2L V8 engine straight from the heart of the Shelby GT500. That engine produces between 725 and 750 horsepower according to our sources, which is a huge increase over the output of the twin-turbocharged 3.5L engine in the current model. 

Though the driver doesn't do a wide open throttle acceleration at the time we shot the photos, the rumble of a V8 under the hood was clearly heard. A source close to the project was quoted as saying, “Honestly, we had to counter RAM once we knew they installed the HellCat in the TRX.”

That team is clearly aiming to best the Ram TRX at all costs. Expect an official debut in early 2021.

Ahh, the parts bin. Is there a more reliable shortcut to sports car success? While platform sharing is a common automotive industry practice, there are a handful of performance models out there that took things to the extreme by snagging an engine here, a chassis there, and then putting the interior bits in a bag, shaking them up, and dumping them in the cockpit.

The end result? 'Instant sports car.' These platform mutts strove to rise above the sum of their parts and deliver the kind of fun and impressive driving experience enthusiasts are looking for—but as we're about to see it didn't always work out for the best each and every time the engineering team got a little lazy and leaned on past success to develop future product.

Pontiac Solstice / Saturn Sky

When the Pontiac Solstice (and its Saturn sibling, the Sky) appeared for the 2005 model year, it was the first two-seat sports car produced by the brand since the ill-fated Fiero. The Solstice roadster (which would towards the end of its short lifespan also be joined by a hardtop coupe) featured a unique hydroformed frame (the Kappa platform) that was hand-welded together around a boxed tunnel and book-ended by the windshield and the bulkhead that separated the trunk from the passenger compartment.

The rest of the Solstice, however, was exclusively brother-from-another-mother. Although top-tier GXP trims got a hot 260 horsepower, 2.0-liter turbocharged Ecotec four-cylinder engine, most versions of the car shared their 2.4-liter four-banger with almost every other small car in the General Motors fleet—including laggards like the Chevrolet HHR and the Pontiac G6.

Its 5-speed manual gearbox was sourced from the automaker's mid-size pickup lineup, while the optional automatic was lifted from Cadillac (as were its differential and axles). Inside, the car was a mix of Chevrolet Cobalt, Hummer H3, Pontiac G5, and even Cadillac XLR. While the sheet metal was largely bespoke to the Solstice, lighting was borrowed from GMC and Pontiac.

The Solstice was a last-ditch effort to give Pontiac some personality, but it's clear that GM was unwilling to invest much more beyond its basic platform and its turbocharged EcoTec. Although power was good, would-be buyers were frustrated by a trunk that virtually disappeared when the convertible's top was down, along with relatively muted handling chops due to its near-3,000 lbs of curb weight. A more focused effort might have saved the Solstice from doom when the curtain came down on Pontiac at the end of the decade.

BMW Z3

What is it with car companies trying to assemble roadsters like Lego? The BMW Z3 was the first vehicle produced by the German brand at its American plant in Spartanburg, South Carolina, and the process of getting this convertible (and later coupe) from the drawing board to the asphalt relied on a major assist from not one, but two pre-existing BMW platforms.

Most of the Z3's underpinnings could be traced back to the E36-generation BMW 3 Series, which had debuted just a few years before the Z3's 1996 on-sale date. This in itself was not unusual; BMW hadn't sold a roadster in North America in decades, and rather than run the risk of failure with an expensive, all-new design, it selected its most recent two-door chassis (which had an excellent reputation as a balanced handler).

There's a crucial difference between the Z3 and the E36, however, and that's its rear suspension system. With the current 3 Series design taking up too much space in what would be the Z3's already vestigial trunk, BMW swapped in the less-sophisticated trailing arm setup carried over from the older, E30-generation sedans and coupes.

This suspension sleight-of-hand would impact the BMW Z3 in more ways than one. Frankensteining the two platforms together created a situation where the rear subframe wasn't capable of handling the strain of high performance driving, having never been designed to withstand the new forces exerted by the E30 transplant. On the Z3 M cars especially (which featured significantly more horsepower than the base model), it wasn't uncommon for subframes and floorpans to violently separate, tearing apart and requiring expensive repairs. A cottage industry bracing the Z3's delicate bits prior to their divorce quickly sprouted up for anyone who planned on thrashing the sports car on a track or twisty road.

One more, less-mentioned casualty of the Z3's parts-bin roots is its original engine. The car was offered exclusively with a 1.9L, 138 hp four-cylinder motor in its first year of production, a lifeless lump lifted from one of BMW's more economy-minded efforts. It would be a full year before the Z3 received a 2.8-liter straight six that would add 190 horses and significantly more torque to the package, vastly improving its personality and transforming what could have been a disaster into an enduring icon for fans of the brand.

Lexus RC F

The Lexus RC F was the logical, two-door successor to the Japanese company's IS F performance sedan, which had preceded it by several years. Featuring the same fire-breathing, 467 horsepower 5.0-liter V8, the RC F's striking looks and gobs of torque (389 lb-ft) made it seem like a lock for fans of sophisticated luxury sports coupes and muscle cars alike.

Unfortunately, the RC F's 'design by committee' platform left something to be desired when it came to its driving dynamics. You see, Lexus originally planned to create a convertible version of the standard RC, which led the product team to specify a chassis that was strong enough to stay rigid even with the top removed. In an effort to satisfy this requirement, Lexus engineers would grab the rear half of the similarly-sized IS sedan, the front suspension from the larger GS sedan, and then bridge them together with the mid-section of the previous-generation Lexus IS C (which was what the automaker's convertible had been previously called).

If all of that sound a little clunky to you, you're right —and the RC F paid a price, particularly when it came to weight. As it turns out, a convertible version of the car was nixed at the last minute and so the coupe ended up being much heavier than it needed to be with all of that structural stiffness stuffed into its IS C-sourced center. The coupe tipped the scales at just over 3,900 lbs, which made it more than a little unwieldy as a track toy and somewhat slower than it should have been in a straight line, condemning Lexus' would-be muscle machine to be more high-priced cruiser than sports car.

Part 1: Fun Haver Jump

When Team Fun-Haver gets together, they can only go one speed: full send. On episode one of Fun-Haver Field Test, Loren Healy shows pro-drifter and fellow fun-haver teammate Chelsea DeNofa how to properly send it off jumps in the Nevada desert just outside Las Vegas.

Loren's truck was designed for going flat out in desert and off-road desert racing, but today it’ll help Chelsea learn how to do some proper off-road truck jumps—because, you can't be prepared for desert racing without first getting a handle for dealing with jumps. With Nitto Trail Grapplers on each wheel, it has plenty of grip for sending it off-road.

The day started off with Loren riding shotgun, helping get Chelsea acclimated to the new truck through some whoops. That wasn’t enough for him, so the they quickly moved onto a box jump, where Chelsea may have had a bit too much fun going full send over it.

Once he mastered that, they ended the day with an even bigger jump that landed on the flat. This one took a little longer to master, but as is the case with a fun-haver, it’s never just “one more time.” They kept taking it off the jump right up until the light was fading at the end of the day. If you ever wondered how to send it with Team Fun-Haver watch the video here, and you’ll know.

Part 2: Sending it in an RTR Mustang at the School of Drift

Loren Healy and Chelsea DeNofa trade the dirt for the winding pavement of the School of Drift in the second episode of Fun-Haver Field Test, where Chelsea puts Loren through the paces and teaches him how to drift a car with a handbrake in an RTR Mustang. Going from an all-wheel drive Ultra4 rig to a two-wheel drive Ford Mustang should be a bit of a challenge, making this all the more interesting.

Of course, Chelsea, being the great drift instructor that he is, wouldn’t leave Loren without a plan. To get those rear NT555 G2 tires spinning, they worked on J-turns in Chelsea’s Mustang drift car, then moved up to drift donuts, followed by drifting a single turn, then linking two turns together through a transition and then ending by helping him become a pro on a few different sections of the track.

All of this adds up to some epic Mustang drifts as Loren is learning to drift, making it farther and sending it better with each time through the track. The day wasn’t without its fair share of missteps (a barrier or two may or may not have been hit), but for Team Fun-Haver, it’s all worth it in the pursuit of sending it. Click here to watch the video.

It may still be considered a niche motorsport, but diesel drag racing is definitely a thing. And for the competitors that live and breathe it, it’s a very serious thing. For the past few years, Johnny Gilbert and his team at Stainless Diesel have been campaigning a second-gen Dodge Ram at the top of the Pro Street diesel class—and their 2,500-plus horsepower, Cummins-propelled beast just set a new eighth-mile record. After stringing together a host of low 5-second passes in the 150-mph range, Johnny drove the truck to a 4.92 at 155.7-mph, effectively obliterating the old trap speed record in the process.

For the sake of comparison, just 10 years ago Pro Street diesel trucks were barely knocking on the door of high 5’s in the eighth-mile and trap speeds rarely exceeded 120 mph. So what’s changed? For starters, horsepower has more than doubled, power management is much more precise, transmission options have improved and common-rail injection technology has come to dominate. Employing all of the above, Johnny and the Stainless Diesel team are flying high in 2020—with plenty of racing still to come. To get a sense of just how impressive this Pro Street machine and the crew behind it is, keep scrolling.

Pro Street Diesel Trap Speed Record: 155.7 MPH

It’s been a long time coming for Johnny Gilbert and the Stainless Diesel crew. After knocking on the door of 150-mph for a while (and flirting with 4-second territory for an even longer period), Johnny finally broke through on the trap speed front in early July. And just two weeks after obtaining that new personal best trap speed of 150.26 mph, he and his team took advantage of cooler track conditions and threw a more aggressive tune-up at the common-rail Cummins. The truck responded by dead-hooking, grabbing a 1.25-second 60-foot and sending its 4,500-pound heft through the ‘660 in 4.92 seconds at a record 155.7 mph.

A Group Effort

Although more than 2,300 hp made it to the slicks on the 155.7-mph pass (according to the calculators available at WallaceRacing.com), there is definitely more to setting records than simply making gobs of horsepower. You have to maintain traction, apply your power with precision and keep the engine from exploding in the process. Putting together a record-setting pass is always the result of a full team effort. Thanks to the use of a stand-alone Bosch Motorsport ECM, things like ground speed, shock travel, EGT and dozens of other key parameters are logged each time the truck makes a pass. The guys under the Stainless canopy even measure G-force and yaw, too (and we’ll note that hard launches can yield as much as 2.2 G’s).

4x4 TH400

A big part of Stainless Diesel’s success is a direct result of switching to a TH400 with a trans-brake. Similar to what goes into the Pro Mod cars you see, but four-wheel drive in this application, the Turbo 400 has been much more durable than the previous 48RE platform was for the Stainless Diesel guys. The TH400 program got underway with the help of Wilson Patterson Diesel roughly two years ago and makes use of a bolt together, 5-disc Sun Coast converter. The converter’s serviceable design allows for end-user stator and clutch stack changes to be made. Within the transmission case, sprag issues seem to be the biggest issues the 2,500hp combination faces and Johnny tells us they’ve yet to hurt a clutch pack. Compare that from a few years ago, when breaking 48RE transmission cases was an everyday (and very time-consuming) occurrence.

Less Breakage Means More Seat Time

Johnny and team aren’t alone in campaigning a TH400 in diesel drag racing. In fact many Pro Mod as well as Pro Street teams have made the switch in recent years in search of better reliability. Now, with many of the TH400’s minor issues ironed out and plenty of seat time with it, Johnny and team are beginning to realize the time-tested Turbo 400 will take virtually everything they can throw at it. “We’ve always had the power to put through it,” he told us. “It was just a matter of making it play well with the chassis.”

The Struggle In Applying 2,300+ HP

This is the type of tire wrinkle you get when you’re launching a 4,500-pound truck with 30-psi of boost on tap, but make no mistake about how easy the Stainless truck makes its mid 1.2-second 60-foots appear. According to Johnny, “we actually hit the 60-foot hard, then pull out horsepower, then pour it back on, so a lot of trickiness happens around the 60-foot mark.” He also tells us the team still has another 500hp available, but it’s such a fine balance in using it (without losing traction) that every single pony has to be finessed and applied at the right time.

Track Conditions Matter

Even in the midst of low 5-second blasts it’s sometimes necessary for Johnny to lift. Case in point, at a race on a hot, greasy track back in July, one data log revealed that he backed out of the throttle 20-percent after the converter locked and caused the truck to momentarily break traction. Recovering almost instantly, he still went 5.06 on that pass… When track conditions were 50-degrees cooler and traction was constant, Johnny pulled off the record, 155.7-mph pass that him the fastest Pro Street diesel driver on the planet.

Single Turbo & Nitrous: A Simplified Path To Big Power

Under the fiberglass front clip, you’ll find a sleeved and deck-plated 6.7L-based Cummins built by Pine Hill Auto LLC in Carrollton, Ohio. D&J Precision Machine rods and Diamond pistons are part of the rotating assembly, a Wagler Competition Products head sits up top and S&S Diesel Motorsport provides plenty of fuel thanks to stroker CP3’s and agriculture-based 6.7L injectors. The single turbo is the biggest news for 2020, with Johnny and team scrapping the triple-turbo arrangement the truck sported for years in favor of a sizeable, 88mm Garrett GT55 with a 4-inch turbine wheel. By switching to the single, 100 pounds was shaved off of the truck’s bottom line and the power that was sacrificed is made back up with the use of nitrous (6 to 8 pounds worth per pass).

Team Stainless

As diesel drag racing continues to evolve and further establish itself as a true, semi-professional entity, you’ll find a lot more than simply a driver and one of his or her friends in the pits. Thanks to a rock-solid mix of family and friends, the team behind Stainless Diesel’s record-setting trap speed, its 2019 ODSS Pro Street points championship and its runner-up finish in 2018 have been instrumental in all of the recent successes. Driver Johnny Gilbert (center)—always cool, calm and collected—is noticeably comfortable behind the wheel. John Gilbert III (second from left) handles the ECM tuning and friend Stephen O’Neal (far left) is in charge of the truck’s nitrous system. Johnny and team are currently second place in the ODSS points chase this season, but given their consistency and recent accolades we expect them to repeat in 2020.

The beginning of any camping trip always starts with a game of Tetris. No matter how many times I’ve gone camping, preparing for a trip always starts with finding the right spot for everything. I’m not one to just throw my gear in the back and head out. I’m all about maximizing space and knowing where things are when I need them.

When camping, gear and organization is key. You want to bring only what you need. Properly packing your camping gear can make your camping trip much easier and more relaxing.

Overlanding Organization: Just like the drawers in your house

A rear drawer system is the ultimate in overland organization. Just like the drawers in your house, a drawer in your vehicle allows you to organize your gear and store it out of sight.

In addition to gear organization, some drawer systems are also designed for integrating camp kitchens or creating sleeping platforms.

Companies like ARB, Goose Gear, Truck Vault and Decked make drawer systems designed for many popular off-road vehicles.

The benefit of manufactured drawers is that they are made-to-measure. They are designed to properly fit around all the curves your truck or SUV interior. Another benefit is that many manufactured drawers use quality materials designed to withstand the vibrations of off-road driving.

These Decked drawers allow you to store gear while maintaining the full-length functionality of your truck bed. You can even haul up to 2,000 lbs of material on top of their drawers.

D.I.WHY

If you go the manufactured route, you will get what you pay for. High quality drawers come with a high price tag. Most drawer systems start at around $1,000. A complete camp kitchen system from Goose Gear starts at $3,495. For the more budget minded, you can DIY and build your own drawers…that is if you have the time and know-how (or in my case, know someone that has the know-how). Recently, a friend helped me put together a sleeping platform for my Land Cruiser.

I wanted to be able to store my gear, mount my fridge and increase the rear area for sleeping. This would allow me to keep weight low and camp without the need of a tent. Measuring twice (sometimes more) and cutting once (also sometimes more) we built a platform for my needs. The drawer system we came up allows me to store essentials like my recovery gear, camp kitchen and other items, out of sight. Soft items like sleeping bags and duffle bags can go in the back seat. The fridge was mounted on a slider for easy access.

One of my least favorite things to do after a long drive to the camp, was having to unload everything so that I could sleep in the back. With the drawers, all I have to do is fold the rear seats down and set up my bed. The sleeping platform gives me almost 7 ft of sleeping space. If I needed a wider sleeping area, I could remove the fridge and replace it with a cover over, creating a completely flat platform.

Drawer Drawbacks

The added convenience of drawers aren’t without their drawbacks. Although drawers allow you to retain the full length of your cargo area, you will lose some of the height. I recently realized this when a Costco run required folding the back seats. The decreased vertical height also means that large items will need to be laid flat. This could be a problem for tires or heavy items that cannot be stacked.

Another drawback is their added weight. Many drawer systems weigh in around 150-200 lbs. Coupled with all your other gear, the addition of drawers may contribute to suspension sag or rubbing and hitting the bump stops when driving on a trail.

Are they worth it?

Regardless of their drawbacks, I would say that the pros outweigh the cons of having drawers.

They have quickly become one of my favorite additions and made car camping much easier and enjoyable.

Jeep fans and 4x4 enthusiasts were titillated earlier this summer when the SUV builder brought out the Wrangler 392 concept, a vehicle that stuffed a 6.4-liter V8 into the off-road icon in order to give it 450hp and 450 lb-ft of torque. That's a massive upgrade over the next-in-line, 285 horsepower V6, and it showed that there's plenty of headroom left in the Wrangler's platform to accommodate a beefier drivetrain.

It got us thinking: which other 4x4 SUVs and pickups could stand to see their output enhanced by way of a V8 transplant? Surprisingly, outside of the full-size segment there aren't any eight-cylinder off-roaders sitting in showrooms right now.

Here are the trucks would we tap for a little open heart surgery.

Ford Bronco 5.0 V8

We'd be the first to admit that the upcoming 2021 Ford Bronco isn't lacking for horsepower, what with a standard 270 horsepower EcoBoost four-cylinder engine and the option of a 310hp, 2.7-liter EcoBoost V6 (that's also good for 400 lb-ft of torque).

Still, there's nothing quite like the immediacy of a large displacement V8 when it comes to torque delivery, and since a diesel model is likely out of the question, our thoughts turn to a Coyote under the new Bronco's hood. With the right tune, 400 horsepower and 400 lb-ft of torque should be easy enough to package under a torque curve that would be a perfect fit with either a manual gearbox or Ford's 10-speed automatic. This would allow for plenty of towing power and that wonderful eight-cylinder snarl.

We're also willing to bet that there's room under the Bronco's hood for a V8, given the need to house a pair of turbos for the 2.7. More controversially, the 5.0's fuel mileage would likely be a much closer than expected match for the EcoBoost V6 in real-world driving.

Toyota Tacoma TRD Pro 5.7 V8

The Toyota Tacoma has dominated the mid-size truck market for over a decade, and it's done so without making any major changes. Although styling may have evolved, and a few extra features have been added to the mix, mechanically the Tacoma platform hasn't seen any major shake-ups during its reign on top.

Given that a redesigned Tacoma could still be a few years away, what better way to keep buyers interested than by building a three-quarter sized Raptor fighter? Stuffing the iForce 5.7-liter V8 between the Toyota's front fenders would make just under 400 horsepower available, along with 401 lb-ft of torque. Each of these figures is a sizable boost over the stout-but-slow V6 that has served as the Tacoma's top dog since time immemorial.

It's the perfect formula for producing a dune-running pickup that could keep pace with the Ford F-150 Raptor, given its lighter size and smaller footprint. Even better would be a return to the Tacoma's Pre-Runner days by installing the big V8 in a two-wheel drive truck that benefits from an aggressive long-travel suspension.

Chevrolet Colorado ZR2 5.3 V8

The Chevrolet Colorado ZR2, with its DSSV shocks and rugged overall design, has been a legitimate challenger to the Tacoma's off-road hegemony in recent years. Think of how much more potent that ZR2 package could be, however, if the truck's 3.6-liter V6 was complemented by a 5.3-liter V8 lifted from the full-size Silverado?

The Colorado already delivers an impressive number of engines on the order sheet—a four-cylinder, a V6, and a turbodiesel—making it the only mid-size pickup to provide a trio of drivetrain options. What's one more in the mix, right?

A V8 version of the ZR2 could provide as much as another 120 lb-ft of torque over the V6's 275 lb-ft, which would be a welcome addition whether you're rock crawling or dune bashing. With the relatively compact size of the Gen V pushrod engine design, fitting the 5.3 to the smaller Chevrolet shouldn't be an issue either.

Jeep Gladiator 392

The same summer as Jeep announced a concept version of the Wrangler SUV, is it unreasonable to ask for the same engine transplant for the Jeep Gladiator mid-size pickup? (Jeep Gladiator Hurcules, anyone?) After all, this 4x4 is substantially larger than even the four-door Wrangler, which means it would benefit most from having extra grunt to help it tackle the trail.

Given that the Gladiator is currently only available with a 285 hp, 3.6-liter V6 (it doesn't yet benefit from the turbo four or turbodiesel offered in the Wrangler), a 392 edition (referring to its V8 displacement in cubic inches) would certainly add diversity to the line-up.

The 450hp and healthy serving of torque that would come with it would also provide Jeep Gladiator owners with additional off-road grunt as well as better overall towing capacity. It's a win-win situation for Jeep that, if every other truck builder mentioned in this piece ignores out advice, would give it the only V8 in its class—and certainly the mightiest.

The Mazda MX-5 Miata is undoubtedly one of the greatest enthusiast vehicles ever built—beloved the world over by people who enjoy driving.

For more than 30 years now it’s been one of the funnest and best handling sports cars available at any price, but the Miata has never been known for its straight line speed.

The Miata is considered one of the best examples of the “slow car fast” school of thought thanks to its modest horsepower, light weight and razor sharp responsiveness. But is the Miata really that slow?

After an engine upgrade for the 2019 model year, the Miata’s 2.0 liter naturally aspirated four-cylinder engine now makes 181 horsepower, and in a car as light as the MX-5, the result can actually be some pretty surprising acceleration figures.

While a brand new Miata may still lose most drag races to high horsepower modern performance cars, it’s 0-60 and quarter mile times would have once been in the realm of serious muscle machines.

As proof of this, here are five classic V8 American performance cars that a 2020 MX-5 would beat not just around a twisty road course, but in an old fashioned drag strip duel as well.

1990 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

Few cars were cooler to be seen in the late ‘80s and early ‘90s than an IROC Camaro. And after a period of seeming dated and uncool to most, a clean third gen Camaro is becoming a lot more desirable to collectors.

But had a brand new 5.7-powered IROC matched up with a 2020 MX-5 at the drag strip it would be looking at Mazda taillights. It’s 14.73 quarter mile at 93 miles per hour puts it well behind the new MX-5’s 14.4 at 95 miles per hour.

1979 Pontiac Trans Am

Head back a decade earlier and the coolest car on the block was another GM F-body—this one the Pontiac Trans Am, as made famous by Burt Reynolds in Smokey & the Bandit.

Yet even with a 6.6 liter (AKA 400 cubic inch) V8 and a four-speed manual the the ’79 Trans Am’s 15.3 second quarter mile ET would put it nearly a second behind the little two liter Mazda. The Pontiac still as the cool Screaming Chicken though...

1969 Chevrolet Camaro Z/28

With its rev-loving destroked 302 cubic inch small block and racing pedigree, the 1969 Z/28 is considered one of the greatest and most desirable of the first generation Camaros.

But a race with a new Miata would show just how far sports cars have come in the 50+ years since. With a 15.1 quarter mile time the Camaro would be more than half a second behind through the traps.

1994 Ford Mustang Cobra

Back in '94 the Cobra was the hottest Mustang you could buy—taking the basic GT and improving upon it in both horsepower and handling capability.

But even with its higher output version of the legendary 5.0 small block engine, the Miata still gets through the quarter mile quicker, beating out the Cobra’s 14.7 second ET.

1970 Pontiac GTO Judge

In 1970 at the peak of the original muscle car era, the Pontiac GTO Judge was one of the coolest machines you could buy. And it had plenty of performance to back up its loud looks.

While it would be a very close race, a new Miata would still edge out the Judge’s 14.5 second ET by a tenth of a second—although the Judge would be carrying more speed through the traps—showing how big of a factor traction was back then.

If going fast at the drag strip is your goal, then a new Miata still isn’t going to be near the top of your list, but its straight line speed is not to be under estimated.

The fact that a “slow” car could be so fast really shows how good we have it these days.

Truck builds don’t always go according to plan and this classic Ford is a good example of that. The journey all started when David Crocker was a kid and his father had a ’56 F-100. Like most of us, David had fond memories riding around in his dad’s truck. Furthermore, his dad was always the one that the family turned to when they needed something fixed. This was especially true for cars as David remembers numerous weekends spent getting his hand dirty while helping change brakes, clutches and with tune ups.

Hooked on Cars

David was hooked at a young age and now that he has the means to work on his own rides, there was nothing he wanted more than to fix up an old ’56 like the one his dad had. Luckily, a family friend had one in a drivable condition and David had his eye on it for quite some time. He even told his dad that if it were ever for sale, he would snag it up in no time. After year of waiting, word got out that, Byron, the previous owner was looking to get rid of it and David didn’t skip a beat on scooping it up.

Getting Started

The F-100 was in decent shape but it was nothing spectacular. After about five years of it being parked at his dad’s house, David decided to take it to his own house and told him that he was going to fix it up for him. While searching around for shops, David came across a local place that put out some great vehicles and looked pretty reputable. So, he dropped it off and many of the pieces were sent out to different vendors that specialized in the different sectors.

The Crocker Curse

All was good until one day when David stopped by to check out the progress. Well he found an eviction notice on the door of the shop and no one around. The frame was there, but everything was gone because it had all been sent out. When his mother heard about this, she raised her arms and uttered, “it’s the Crocker Curse,” which is a phrase she always says when something goes wrong in the family.

Picking Up the Pieces

Fortunately, David was able to track down all the pieces and get them back together. He decided to cut his losses and move forward with the build. David then connected with Jim Bassett of Bones Fab in Camarillo, CA and brought the truck in so that he and his talented team could put it all together. Once there, the two of them went over ideas and a plan was formed to finish it.

The Foundation

Starting with the foundation of an F-100, the frame was cleaned up, reinforced and powder-coated. Updating the front suspension is an IFSsystem from Total Cost Involved. In the back, a custom wishbone three link suspension keeps the rearend in place while it functions. Providing a smooth ride and ability to adjust the height come from the Ride Tech air bags complimented by Bilstein shocks. Wrapping up the suspension is a set of 12-inch Wilwood brakes with 6-piston calipers up front and 4-piston version for the rear. A Hydratech hydraulic braking assist system and Classic Performance Products master cylinder to control them.

Breathing New Life

David wanted something a little more modern to power this truck and chose a 351ci Windsor-based engine that was punched out to 392-cubic inches. Natural aspiration comes from a Borla TWM fuel injected throttle body kit with billet machined air horns for optimum airflow. This system not only has the impressive appearance of eight-stacked injection, but it provides efficiency and drivability. Exhausted gases then flow through a custom set of ceramic-coated headers to an exhaust that merges and utilizes a single Flowmaster muffler. Behind the Windsor engine is an automatic overdrive transmission with 2,500-stall torque converter. Rotational force then goes to the custom steel driveshaft and then to the Currie 9-inch Ford rear end that is equipped with 4.10:1 ring and pinion gears.

Fresh Appearance

The body of this super smooth F-100 was sand blasted clean to give a good place to start the bodywork. For the front and rear, the bumpers were removed while roll pans were installed. The doors received one-piece glass while the bed got widened fiberglass fenders. From there, all the imperfections and distracting objects were removed, and the panels were worked straight with small amounts of body filler. Then, the truck was coated in custom mix of root beer/copper paint with ghost flames up front. Completing the look is a set of 20 and 22-inch Bonspeed Quasar billet wheels with satin black powder coated finish. The wheels were wrapped in 245/40R20 and 285/35R22 Nitto NT555 tires. This ultra high performance tire was the perfect fit as the large contact patches make for superior traction and great handling.

Inner Goods

For the interior, Conejo Upholstery stepped it up with a set of Glide Engineering bucket seats and a custom center console. The headliner and door panels were hand-made and covered in leather upholstery. To help steer the truck is a column from Flaming River with a Con2r custom wheel. The vitals of the engine are now monitored with a Dakota Digital VHX gauge system. Keeping the climate cool on hot summer days is a Vintage Air system. Providing a solid soundtrack for the road ahead, Phantom Electronics wired up a Pioneer DVD head unit to the new speakers in custom kick panels and Addictive Audio subwoofers behind the seats. One of the most notable features on the inside of the cab is a Sparrow painted on the smoothed dash. This is to replicate a tattoo that David’s father got in 1951 to show his love for wife Virginia.

Making New Memories

Though the truck was only supposed to be a mild restoration with a decent turn around time, David was able to see it through and create something even better than expected. David told us that the greatest part of the project was when he had his dad stop by the house to see the completed project. Since then, the two of them have made many more fond memories in this stunning truck.

The Dodge Charger is one of the undisputed legends of the muscle car pantheon, and well-preserved examples continue to dazzle classic car fans 50 years past its first appearance on the scene. That being said, not every iteration of the Dodge Charger came with a fire-breathing Hemi engine, nor did all models deserve the same kind of breathless adoration heaped upon the vehicle's glory years. There have been ups and downs in the Charger's many decades of production, including several twists and turns that have seen the vehicle trade performance for frugality, and style for practicality.

Which versions of the Dodge Charger are our favorites? Here's our ranking of each and every Charger generation from first to worst.

1. 1968-1970 Dodge Charger

The '68-'70 Dodge Charger needs almost no introduction. This is the sleek, malevolent R/T coupe that hunted down Steve McQueen on the streets of San Francisco, the torque-monster dragster that defined Dom Toretto's character in the Fast and Furious franchise, and the vampire-hunting machine piloted by the daywalker, Blade, in his eponymous movie series—to say nothing of a certain starring role alongside Bo and Luke Duke.

That's just its Hollywood pedigree. On the street the Charger was a force to be reckoned with, available with 318, 383, 440, and of course 426 cubic inches of V8 fury, with underrated Hemi output maxing out at an 'official' 426hp.

It would also enjoy significant NASCAR success in the form of the Charger Daytona, which added a towering rear wing and an extended nose-cone to deliver some of the first true aerodynamic dominance in that racing series.

The B-body's hidden headlights and large, comfortable interior combined with its stunning performance and aggressive styling to make it one of the most popular muscle cars of all time, whether you are a Mopar fan or not.

2. 2011-2020 Dodge Charger

Some might balk at putting a four-door sedan at number two on our list ranking the best Dodge Charger generations, but hear us out.

This is the car that introduced the completely bonkers Hellcat drivetrain to the Charger world, bringing with it 707hp and 650 lb-ft of torque from a supercharged 6.2-liter V8. It would later provide the same drivetrain inside a wide-body package intended to stuff as much rubber under the Charger's fenders as possible for the ultimate in track stickiness.

The Hellcat alone would likely be enough to elevate the LD evolution of the LX platform to our number two spot, but it's just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to what the most recent Charger brings to the table. Two additional V8 engines—a 6.4L good for up to 485hp, and a 5.7L churning out 370 horses—throw down as mightily as the original coupe's drivetrain line-up ever did.

Toss in the availability of all-wheel drive, and a host of gnarly suspension upgrades available via a long list of options packages and trim levels, and you've got the last traditional American rear-wheel drive sedan on the market making Detroit proud.

3. 1966-1967 Dodge Charger

The original Charger was ignored for many years by muscle car fans focused exclusively on second generation models. Recent history has seen a course correction from collectors who now appreciate the sleek lines of the mid-'60s coupe and have elevated it into respectability both at auctions and classic car shows across the country.

The first-generation Dodge Charger presented an intriguing variant on the popular Coronet, with its fastback design and hidden headlights giving it a classy take on the era's sporty design themes. Features such as folding rear seats gave the car significant cargo space and added practicality to the two-door car, and it also saw its share of success on the NASCAR oval.

Dodge didn't push the Charger as a muscle car, but it could be ordered with nearly the same line-up of V8 engines as its more famous successor (including a 426 Hemi). Ultimately, debuting so close to the Ford Mustang and the Chevrolet Camaro (which provided much more focused performance), had an impact on the car's more restrained street reputation. This was a big part of what convinced Dodge to give the second-generation Charger its harder edge.

4. 1971-1974 Dodge Charger

The transition from the go-go 60s to the emissions-choked, insurance-hobbled '70s was difficult at best for the muscle car industry, but the Dodge Charger handled it better than most. The revised B-body was still a looker, and while it might have borrowed some of its styling cues from Pontiac's GTO Judge it remained poster-worthy for teens dreaming of a V8-powered tire shredder.

Early on the Hemi was still on the order sheet, but by 1972 it was gone. The Charger introduced a mid-range 400 cubic inch engine to replace the 383, with the 318, 340, and 440 soldiering on towards a gradually de-tuned future (a new 360 cubic inch motor would also become available).

Fewer and fewer Chargers were showing up at the drag strip, as the buyer shifted towards the grand touring, semi-luxury crowd similar that which was snapping up Chevrolet Monte Carlos and Ford Thunderbirds of the same era.

6. 2006-2010 Dodge Charger

When the Charger returned as a four-door sedan for the 2006 model year, it ruffled more than a few feathers. Despite being absent from the market for nearly 20 years, nostalgia would both help and hinder Dodge's latest iteration of the car.

Produced on the same platform as the Chrysler 300, and enjoying access to certain aspects of the Mercedes-Benz parts bin (thanks to corporate parent Daimler), the Charger was the most sophisticated model to bear the name.

The rear-wheel/all-wheel drive machine reintroduced not one, but two Hemi engines, along with the Daytona, SRT-8, and Super Bee trim levels, and it offered plenty of horsepower to ease the conscience of those scandalized by the idea of the Charger badge being paired with an extra set of doors.

7. 1983-1987 Dodge Charger

The 1980s saw Dodge less concerned with heritage than it was with keeping the corporate coffers full enough to avoid bankruptcy. As a result, an onslaught of small, affordable cars poured out of its factories, many of which were produced in partnership with import automakers willing to license their fuel efficient engine technologies.

The Dodge Charger would start out as a modest, Volkswagen-powered options package on the front-wheel Omni, and by 1983 it would graduate to its own model, this time with Peugeot power under the hood. Eventually, a Shelby version of the car featuring a 2.2-liter turbocharged four-cylinder would echo part of the Charger's high performance past, culminating in a 146hp effort by 1985.

A couple of years later the Charger would fade from showrooms, but not before a thousand examples were purchased by Shelby to be sold directly by his factory as the 'Shelby GLH-S.'

8. 1975-1978 Dodge Charger

There's a weird uncle in every family, and for the Dodge Charger it's the '75-'78 B-body.

By now fully embracing its pseudo-luxury status, the mid-'70s Charger would bloat up in terms of both length and width, and was motivated by an anemic trio of emissions-choked V8 engines that could barely crest the 225 horsepower mark.

Few cars survived the decade with their dignity intact, and today the Charger is seldom remember alongside other, similar coupes from the era like the Chrysler Cordoba and the Plymouth Fury.

What’s in a name? When it comes to cars, quite a bit. Automakers have a ton invested in name recognition and the image that comes along with those names. The BMW-built Toyota Supra, the Chevy Blazer Crossover and the upcoming Ford Mustang Mach-E SUV are all examples of iconic names being used in controversial vehicles. But they are far from the first and far from the worst offenders.

Here are five well known and respected American nameplates that have been used on some questionable vehicles over the years. Here’s are five of the worst.

1985-1988 Chevy Nova

The Chevy II and Chevy Nova of the ‘60s and ‘70s were designed to be on the affordable side of the Chevrolet lineup. So in some ways it’s natural that name would be used on a small front-drive compact car in the mid 1980s.

But for anyone who grew up with a Nova SS or one of the countless examples modified for racing, seeing the Nova name on rebadged Toyota Corolla is always going to seem disappointing. Hey, at least it was reliable...

1982-1988 Cadillac Cimarron

It’s not just model names that have been disgraced but sometimes entire brands. Just look at the Cadillac Cimarron of the 1980s. Wanting to add a smaller, more affordable offering to its lineup, GM decided to give the Cadillac brand a rebadged version of the Chevrolet Cavalier.

Not only did the Cimarron dilute the once great Cadillac brand name, it was a lazy effort all around built on a mediocre car—and it would go on to become one of the most laughed-at cars of the '80s.

1978-1983 Dodge Challenger

All through the 1970s up through the 1990s, Chrysler and Mitsubishi had a close relationship that spawned a lot of different cross-badged vehicles, one of which was the 1978-1983 Dodge Challenger.

A re-badged version of the Japan-built Mitsubishi Galant Lambda, the Challenger was a decent looking little coupe for the time, but its diminutive size and four-cylinder engines were a far cry from the muscle-bound Challenger of the early ‘70s. At least Plymouth called its version of this car “Sapporo” rather than “‘Cuda.”

1982-1987 Dodge Charger

When Dodge brought the Charger back to the market in the mid 2000s, the car generated some negative reactions from Mopar purists who didn’t like the iconic Charger name being used on a four-door sedan. However this wasn’t the first time the Charger name had been used on a questionable vehicle.

The 1982-1987 Charger did have two-doors like the originals, but it had front-wheel drive, a four-cylinder engine and rode on Chrysler’s L-body platform. While Carroll Shelby and team actually did some impressive work making these 1980s Chargers go fast, we’ll take the modern Hellcats and Scat Pack sedans any day.

1988-1993 Pontiac LeMans

Last but not least we get to one our worst offenders. Originally launched in 1963 the Pontiac LeMans was an upmarket version of the Tempest midsize, the LeMans was the model that spawned the groundbreaking GTO in 1964, kicking off the muscle car era.

Needless to say, anyone who grew up around the Pontiac LeMans of the ’60s must have been disappointed to see Pontiac use the nameplate on a rebadged Korean-built Daewoo compact car that it sold in the late ‘80s and early ‘90s. I guess we are lucky they didn’t make a version with 10 extra horsepower and call it a GTO…

There you have it. Maybe you don't feel so bad about Ford sticking the Mustang nameplate on an electric crossover now... 

The apex predator of the performance SUV world is undoubtedly the Jeep Grand Cherokee Trackhawk. While other, pricier haulers from Porsche (the Cayenne Turbo) and BMW (the X5 M) might deliver smoother handling or a larger helping of luxury features, nothing else features the shock and awe of the Trackhawk's Hellcat-sourced, 707hp supercharged V8 engine, a power plant that causes even the mightiest twin-turbo Euro rival to cower in its presence.

Is it possible, however, that the greatest threat to the Jeep's thunderous SUV dominance comes not from any of its gas-powered rivals but instead a fossil fuel-free upstart's sound of silence? And that this next-generation performance sport-utility hails not from the other side of the Atlantic but rather across town in Detroit?

The Mustang Mach-E is a potential game-changer, not just for the small niche of electric vehicle fans but also those who crave a mix of practicality and performance in a single do-everything package. Although it might seem odd to compare an electric SUV to the most debauched muscle truck ever built, this pair of people movers have more than a little in common when it comes to straight-line thrills—even if they do take dramatically different paths to achieve nearly the same end result.

Despite the Mach-E being several months away from launch we know quite a bit already about what the electric Mustang SUV is bringing to the table. After spending a week behind the wheel of the 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trackhawk, it only felt right to compare the experience to what Ford is promising in the upcoming Mach-E and see what the changing of the super SUV guard might look like.

Great Big Torque

On paper the battle between the Jeep Grand Cherokee Trackhawk and the Ford Mustang Mach-E appears to be a mismatch. The former boasts 707 horsepower and 645 lb-ft of torque from a supercharged 6.2-liter V8 engine, sent to all four-wheels via a full-time four-wheel drive system, and managed by an eight-speed automatic transmission.

In contrast, the highest performance version of the Mustang Mach-E, the GT, is motivated by a pair of electric motors that together produce 459 horsepower and 612 lb-ft of torque. As with many electric vehicles, this all-wheel drive setup doesn't require the use of a traditional transmission.

With nearly 250 horses less in the Mach-E compared to the Trackhawk, it's reasonable to expect that the Jeep would flatten the Ford in a straight line, even given the much smaller gap in torque between the two vehicles. In reality, the difference between the two is a blink-and-you'll-miss-it question of milliseconds.

Jeep claims that the Grand Cherokee Trackhawk, with launch control enabled, will hit 60-mph from a standing start in 3.5 seconds. Ford, on its side, is making an identical claim for the Mach-E. It's worth noting that in real-world testing the Trackhawk has been able to cut a few tenths of a second off of that published figure, and it's reasonable to expect the Mustang Mach-E GT to over-achieve to the same degree.

What accounts for the Ford Mustang Mach-E's startling acceleration despite its horsepower handicap? There are two factors to consider when comparing these mega-SUVs, with the first being weight. The heaviest version of the electric Mustang sport-utility checks in at 4,890 lbs, which makes it only 300 lbs heavier than a Dodge Charger Hellcat. It also positions it a whopping 550 lbs below the Trackhawk (which at 5,448 lbs is 999 lbs chunkier than a Challenger Hellcat), and that goes a long way towards leveling the playing field in terms of speed.

Next up is the unique torque delivery of electric motor designs. Capable of blasting out 100 percent of its 615 lb-ft as soon as the go-pedal is pushed, there's no powerband to stay in or shifting to do during its sprint, which means a properly-programmed traction control system can make the most of all that forward thrust.

Race Track Equalizer

How the Ford Mustang Mach-E will handle twisting roads and challenging road courses is a little less certain.

Having driven the Jeep Grand Cherokee Trackhawk on both a race track and numerous two-lane tracts of asphalt, it's clear that the SUV can more than hold its own. Helping to mitigate the effects of its ponderous weight and elevated center of gravity are massive 295/45 R20 tires and of course four-wheel drive, each of which adds the kind of grip required to flaunt physics when changing direction.

Combine the above with a set of well-tuned electronic driver's aides, and you have a recipe for a truck that is certainly competent lap after lap, but which isn't exactly what you'd call fun. That being said, the suspension of disbelief as the behemoth Jeep manages to stay on course is a trip all its own.

Similarly, it's reasonable to expect that the Mach-E will offer a comparable level of grip from oversized rubber, and with a software safety net to match in terms of apportioning power to the right spot and at the right moment. With its lighter curb weight and the fact that most electric vehicles stuff their mass as close to the floorboards as possible, it's also likely that the Mustang Mach-E GT will feel somewhat more willing to change direction at a high rate of speed.

The real question for Ford's EV will be durability in a high performance environment. Battery technology continues to evolve on an almost monthly basis, but the reality of heat soak and the necessity for charging systems to keep their power packs as cool as possible to avoid potential damage has hindered many an electric automobile seeking to complete even a standard 20 minute track session. It's unknown at this time how well the SUV's extended-range 98.8 kWh battery will respond to repeated high temperature abuse, and how much Ford will back off on power delivery in the event that heat starts to climb towards an unsafe level during spirited driving.

Intangibles Are Also Important

Head-to-head, it's likely that the Ford Mustang Mach-E GT and the Jeep Grand Cherokee Trackhawk will deliver similar speeds when measured with a stopwatch. Counting fuel breaks and cool-down between laps, they might even be comparable in a track day environment.

The intangible differences between the Jeep's monster V8 and the Ford's peaceable electric motors are likely to be important to those purchasing high performance SUVs. As the market (very) slowly transitions away from fossil fuels, it's going to be hard for gearheads to leave the snarling exhaust note of mighty eight-cylinder engines behind, which is a massive point in the Trackhawk's favor.

Ford is so cognizant of this fact that the new electric Mustang has been programmed to make 'traditional' engine noise when the accelerator is pushed, thus preserving some of the connection between driver and machine. Even still, this sound isn't simply a digital recording of the standard Mustang GT in full flight, but rather its own engineered audio signature that reflects the unique nature of the vehicle.

Then there's the price differential between the two vehicles. Ford is positioning the Mach-E GT at just over $60,000, while the Trackhawk retails for nearly $30k more ($87,645 starting price). It's almost possible for a Mach-E buyer to stuff a Mustang GT coupe into that price gap and enjoy the best of both worlds.

Will the Mustang Mach-E GT topple the Jeep Grand Cherokee Trackhawk from its perch at the top of the performance SUV pantheon the moment it's released? It's hard to see how it could, as support for electric sport-utility vehicles remains largely limited to those who are willing to look beyond not just limited driving range, but all of the issues mentioned above when comparing them to their standard gas-guzzling cousins. That being said, as time goes on vehicles like the Mach-E are proving that electric drivetrains have a whole lot of grins to offer fans of ultra-quick automobiles of every stripe—and that includes sport-utilities.

If you’ve been driving for a few years, you’re likely to have experienced a dead battery at least once. By now, you should know that leaving your lights on when the engine is off can drain your car battery pretty quickly.

Today’s overlanders love accessories. Whether you’re running a winch, air compressors, fridge, lights or even adding USB outlets, your electrical system can only handle so much.

On top of your accessories, you also rely on the battery to start the engine. The last thing you want to happen when you’re off the grid is a dead battery

Why would I need two batteries?                                  

Whether you’re camping just outside of the city or trekking across the continent for weeks at a time, a dead battery can ruin any trip.

When your car is running, the alternator keeps the battery charged. If you’re parked at camp, running your fridge and camp lights in a stationary car with the engine off is a quick way to discharge your battery. This could leave you off the grid longer than you had planned.

One way to prevent this is by adding a second battery to power your accessories and make sure your starter battery is topped off when it's time to go home.

How does it work?

In a dual battery system, one battery (referred to the starter battery) is dedicated to starting the car. The other battery (called the house or auxiliary battery) is dedicated to powering all your accessories when the engine is off. If needed, the auxiliary battery can be used to jump start the starter battery.

Very basic dual battery set up shown above.

The two batteries are wired in parallel (positive to positive and negative to negative) through a relay. The relay is wired to an ignition source and senses voltage to link batteries together when the engine is running. When the engine is turned off, it isolates them so that the starter battery does not get drained when you are running your accessories off of the house battery.

Depending on what relay or isolator you run it can work similarly as described below:

• When your engine is off, the auxiliary battery will continue to power the accessories connected to it for as long as it the auxiliary battery has power.

• When the main battery drops a certain voltage (i.e. 12.7 volts) the isolator separates the batteries to ensure your starter battery will have enough power to start the engine.

• After the engine is started, the main battery will charge to 13.2 volts before the isolator allows the auxiliary battery to charge.

• When both batteries reach a certain voltage (i.e. 13.2 volts), the isolator will connect the two batteries so that both batteries are being charged.

In the event that the starter battery is drained, some isolators have the ability to connect both batteries together like built-in jumper cables to jump-start a dead starter battery off of the auxiliary battery.

How can I put one in my truck?

Researching dual battery set-ups can get confusing and overwhelming. There are different ways to do it and many parts involved. In addition to a second car battery, you will also need mounts, wiring, fuses and most importantly, the smart relay or isolator.

If you own a popular vehicle such as a Jeep Wrangler, Toyota 4Runner or Toyota Tacoma, there are several kits to choose from. These kits are designed to drop in and come with all the relay and wiring precut, ready to bolt in.

If you want to go the DIY route, you can easily piece together your own. Aside from mounting, the concept applies to most any vehicle.

What kind of batteries should I use? 

A dual battery set up can be run on a regular car battery or deep cycle battery, such as an Odyssey or Optima. Some dual battery set ups will allow you to mix-and-match. Meaning you don’t even need to run two of the same batteries in your dual battery system.

Optima offers different types of deep cycle batteries. Their red top is advertised as “the ultimate starting battery” and features a strong starting burst. Yellow top batteries feature strong cranking and cycling power for vehicles running multiple accessories. Blue top is designed for environments that experience heavy vibrations (boating) and long stationary periods (RVs).

Alternatives

Electric generators such as Jackery or Goal Zeros can power fridges and charge phones, laptops and lights without draining your car battery.

For example, your car battery can power your fridge while you’re driving. When you reach basecamp, you can unplug the fridge from your car and power it through the electric generator.

Regardless if you go dual battery or not, it is always a good idea to bring a battery pack. Some battery packs will not only charge your phone but also jump start a dead car battery. 

Despite their reputation as purveyors of low-quality replicas of much more expensive vehicles, there are a host of kit car companies that have risen well above crowd in order to deliver fantastic automobiles that fill niches mainstream brands have traditionally ignored.

Much of the time these vehicles take the shape of exotic-looking performance cars, or stunning 'copies' of time-tested classic designs that have been fully modernized in order to take advantage of the years of technological improvements separating today from their point of origin. Still other kit car manufacturers strip everything down to the basics and provide a pure driving experience that's almost disappeared from today's market.

Which ones are worth your time and money? The following models represent the best kit cars you can buy today in America.

Factory Five Mk4 Roadster

The Shelby Cobra is one of the most iconic sports car designs of all time, so it's no surprise that it's perhaps the most copied in kit form. Out all of the various interpretations of the Cobra offered to those keen on building their own piece of racing history in their garage at home, the Factory Five Mk4 Roadster stands out as one of the best.

Of Factory Five's three Cobra designs, the Mk4 Roadster is the one that works to balance the demands of both the street and the track. For roughly $19k, the MK4 base kit requires the running gear and drive train from a Ford Mustang (1987-2004, encompassing the Fox and SN95 generations) to be completed, which gives you freedom to build either a 5.0 pushrod V8 or a 4.6-liter / 5.4-liter DOHC edition of the vehicle.

For an additional $7k you can get what Factory Five calls the 'complete kit,' which still requires a donor engine and transmission but comes with all the other bits—computer, driveshaft, fan shroud, etc.—that you would have had to source yourself with the less expensive setup. If you want a near-turnkey experience, Factory Five will also sell you a fully-warrantied motor (3 years, 50,000 miles) from BluePrint Engines that's ready to drop in and go.

Factory Five kits are known for the large community of builders supporting them, their high quality reproduction sheet metal, and their well-designed chassis. If you're looking for a classic racer with a roof, the company also offers its Type 65 coupe, which uses the same platform to replicate the look and feel of the Shelby Daytona.

Ultima Evolution Coupe

Is it possible to put together a supercar on your own? That's a question that Ultima has been answering for more than two decades. The British company's history is replete with models like the GTR, which was modeled after Le Mans prototype race cars, and with expanded operations in the United States the current go-to is the Ultima Evolution Coupe.

This mid-engine marvel features exotic body work and exceptional performance at well under $100k, especially if you chose to build it yourself rather than have Ultima ship you a pre-assembled (excluding the engine) kit.

The Evolution Coupe is intended to accept Chevrolet LS V8 engines tuned from between 350 to just over 1,000hp, making possible a 0-60 time in the three second range. With the option to build your own engine to your own specific budget and preferences, the Ultima is a versatile track car that won't cost you more than a standard European sport sedan once all is said and done.

Caterham Seven

Cobras aren't the only vintage cars that have long attracted kit car fans seeking to put together a vintage vibe. The Caterham Seven's modest mechanical underpinnings and sleek style have also made it a favorite for builders on a budget, especially those seeking to sample a near-open wheel experience on public roads.

The Caterham Seven is a licensed modernization of the classic Lotus Seven, which was one of the first sports cars produced by automotive genius Colin Chapman. Since the '70s, Caterham has been continuously improving the Seven's design without touching the original spirit of the car, which offers some of the most direct steering and handling on the market thanks to its ultra-lightweight design (nearly 1,000 lbs less than a Mazda Miata).

You'll spend roughly $40k for the Caterham Seven kit, which provides around 135hp from a Ford-based 1.6L four-cylinder engine in entry-level models.

If you want to go crazy, there's a lot of room for improvement on the Caterham's power output (with some motorcycle-powered models pushing past 60-mph in under three seconds), but you'll want to make sure that you preserve the fine balance of its excellent chassis. The Seven 620 model currently topping the US market range offers just over 300hp from a 2.0L supercharged Ford motor.

Factory Five 818 S

Of all the vehicles on this list of the best kit cars ever made, Factory Five's second entry is perhaps the most unique. The 818 S takes the Subaru WRX's turbocharged boxer engine and turns it on its ear, creating a mid-mounted rear-wheel drive roadster where once existed an all-wheel drive rally sedan.

With a sub-$10k kit price, the Factory Five 818 S is intended to appeal to high performance fans on a budget—and with so many rusting Subarus out there in the Northeast happy to give up their still-churning drivetrains, the donor vehicle required to complete the build isn't all that expensive, either.

Factory Five provides the frame and body, and relies on either a 2002-2007 WRX or a more lowly Impreza for its suspension, engine, transmission brakes, and much of the interior (which can be filled out with Subaru parts to the taste of the buyer).

Two other variants of the 818 (the C, which is a coupe intended for street/track use, and the R, which is track-only) are also available, and they follow the same basic formula.

Exomotive Exocet

If you're ready to strip down to just the bare essentials—and if you've ever though that your MX-5 simply had way too much sheet metal—then the Exomotive Exocet is aimed right at you.

For a mere $6,999, you get an all-new chassis that resembles nothing more than a roll cage with wheels, into which you can stick a Mazda Miata's four-cylinder engine and seats and then head out onto the street to terrify the person sitting beside you at the traffic light.

There are actually three different levels of Exocet kit, with pricing rising to $8,299 if you're looking for a cage that meets SCCA/FIA requirements as well as additional safety gear to give you at least the illusion that you'll walk away from a shunt. Although technically road legal if registered as the Miata from which its running gear was lifted, Exomotor's creations thrive on the race track due to their miniscule mass and go-kart-like handling.

No matter your taste in vehicles, the one thing that most street vehicle enthusiasts can agree on is that a clean car or truck is better than a dirty one.

Okay, there may be an exception for those 4x4 owners who wear their caked-on dirt and mud with pride, but for the most part—cleaner is better.

Yet when it comes to making a car clean, one area where you’ll find polarized opinions is tire shine. In my years of being in the car hobby I’ve known people who won’t settle for anything other than an ultra wet looking, shiny sidewalls and then there are those who despise any product at all on their tires.

Me personally, I’ve always fallen somewhere in the middle. A clean, black tire is nice in my eye, but I’ve never liked when the sidewalls are so shiny that they become distracting.

When cleaning my car I’ve typically refrained from applying any extra product to the tires unless they were unusually dirty or brown—but the last time I washed my 2016 Mustang GT I decided to explore tire shine solutions a bit more. This would be my first time applying anything to my Nitto NT555 G2 tires that I fitted onto my car a few months back.

To Shine or Not to Shine?

When I was a kid “Armor All” was like the word “Xerox” or “Kleenex” for tire shine—with the brand's rubber protectant formula being invented in the early 1960s and popularized by the early ‘70s.

The market for tire cleaning has since exploded in recent decades with multiple brands offering many lines of product.

When I stopped by the car care section of the local auto parts shop, the selection of tire shine and cleaning products was massive, almost to the point of being overwhelming.

While it can be hard to figure out which product to choose, it looks like the car care brands have aimed each product at a different type of person, including those who want an “insane” wet tire look and those who’d just like some protection from dirt and marks.

Of course there also some supposed DIY methods where you can use other household cleaning products to get the same or a similar result, but not wanting to start my own home science lab I stuck with the store-bought stuff.

I ended up going with two different products, Tire Wet Spray from Black Magic and Meguiar’s Hot Shine Tire Spray, with the idea to compare the look of the two on my Mustang.

Spray or Wipe, the Choice is Yours

After a quick wash and wheel cleaning, the Mustang was ready and its 20” NT555 G2 tires were ready to get their first coat of cleaning product after a few months of service.

First up I busted out the Black Magic no-touch tire spray and went at the the driver’s side. For convenience, it’s hard to beat a no-touch product where you can simply put a coat down and then walk away.

It should be said though, if you have a nice set of wheels like the RTR Aero 7s on this car, you’ll want to be careful with your aim to avoid getting tire spray all over your wheels.

After a minute or two waiting for the foam to dissipate, the Black Magic spray delivered a shiny, wet look just as promised by its name. For those who desire this look the Black Magic delivers.

On the passenger side I used the Meguiar’s Hot Shine. The directions say the Hot Shine can either be sprayed directly on to the tire or srayed on an applicator and put on by hand. I went with the latter method to have more control. And of course no matter which method or type of product you are using, never apply tire shine to the tread of the tire - only to the sidewall area.

After giving a coat to both the front and rear tires, the look clean, with just a bit of shine—and overall the finish matched up nicely with the look of a freshly washed car, although not one that had been detailed above and beyond the normal.

For me this look was just right. It was an improvement over the un-treated sidewalls. Enough to look clean and black without going too far into the super shiny, greasy look.

The "Wet" Look vs the "Clean" Look

Here's a comparison shot of the two sides of the car, Meguiar's Hot Shine on the left and Black Magic on the right. You can definitely see the difference in finish here. 

It’s now been several days since I’ve applied to tire shine products, and the sidewalls on my NT555 G2s still look the same as they do in the photos—although I haven’t yet driven the car through any dusty dirt fields to see how the finish holds up.

With so many different products on the market, the amount of tire shine on your car is always going to come down to personal preference. I personally remain unswayed on my taste for a clean but not ultra shiny sidewall.

So, what say you? Big shine, some shine, or no shine at all?

Thanks to massive wheelwell openings and highline fender flares, the 2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon can easily run a 35-inch-tall tire without a lift. We thoroughly tested this with a 35x11.50R17 Nitto Trail Grappler (which you can watch here). While a true-to-size 35-inch-tall tire is no problem for the Rubicon Gladiator, for those looking to keep the stock wheels, your tire options will be more limited if you are trying to stay within tire manufacturer recommendations. It’s something we’ve been battling ever since upgrading our Gladiator Rubicon with a set of 35x12.50R17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers.

This is due to the fact that the stock 17-inch wheel is only 7.5 inches wide, making it a touch too narrow for the more common 35x12.50R17 tire. While it can be done, you’ll need to reduce the air pressure in the tire to get an even contact patch. Doing so will equate to reduced performance and fuel economy. Our ultimate fix was to upgrade to a wider wheel.

While there are plenty of aftermarket wheel options, we wanted a set that would retain as close to stock backspacing as possible. This would be to not only keep the tires tucked under the fender flares, but to reduce the wear on our front-end components. For those looking for the live action breakdown of our wheel search, you can watch our latest episode of Inside Line on our YouTube channel. Here, we’re diving into what made us ultimately decide on the Pintler wheelfrom American Expedition Vehicles.

Offset Basics

One thing that has changed over the past decade is the fact that we are seeing more and more wheels with offset listed in lieu of backspacing. Offset is represented by either a positive or negative figure listed in millimeters. An easy way to understand offset is to think of zero offset as having the outside of the tire closely aligned with the edge of the fender. When a wheel has a positive offset number, it tucks the tire further inside of the fender. A negative offset number pushes the tire outside of the vehicle.

Backspacing 101

The more traditional and extremely important wheel number for the truck and SUV world is one that is measured in inches. It’s called backspacing and it is measure from the mounting surface of the back of the wheel to the edge of the wheel’s lip. The lower the backspacing number, the farther outside of the vehicle the tire will sit. From the factory, the Gladiator has around 6 inches of backspacing, which keeps the tire tucked well inside of the fender.

Grappler Contact

Within two weeks of purchasing my Gladiator, I upgraded the tires to a set of 35x12.50R17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. I had these in a smaller size on my previous daily driver, a 2018 Chevy Colorado ZR2, and liked how well they performed on-road and off. The challenge with this tire was when I initially set them up at street pressure (around 35psi), the tires were crowning due to the narrow 7.5-inch-wide stock wheel. You can see this in the photo with the outer bands of the tread. In order to get the full contact patch on the ground, I had to drop the air pressure below 30psi, which took a hit to my fuel economy and performance. While I liked the look of the stock wheel just fine, I knew that I needed to get my Ridge Grapplers on a wider wheel.

AEV Pintler

Looking at what the aftermarket has to offer in a 17-inch wheel, one company consistently kept popping back up on our radar- American Expedition Vehicles. AEV as they are more commonly known, offers an assortment of cast aluminum wheels that are Gladiator and Jeep Wrangler specific. We were immediately drawn to the company’s Pintler series wheel for its styling, but quickly learned its specs were perfect for our build. This wheel is offered in a Onyx finish, along with the painted matte black that we went with.

Mounted & Balanced

We had our 35’s mounted and balanced at Low Range 4x4 in Wilmington, North Carolina. Though AEV states that due to the design of their A356 T6 cast aluminum constructed wheel, placing higher ounce wheel weights on can be an issue due to clearance between the caliper and wheel, we did not have a problem. In our experience, Nitto’s take little weight to balance in general. Couple this with the fact that AEV wheels are built and tested to the incredibly strict SAE J2530 standards and it’s no surprise that it didn’t take hardly any weight to get our wheelset to zero out on the balancer.  

Standout Features

What makes a makes a wheel Gladiator specific? Well, for starters, AEV built the wheel in a way that it can accept the stock lug nuts. Sure, that might not seem like a big deal at first. However, when you consider the larger seat that the stock lugs provide, along with the quality of nut compared to an aftermarket set, and you understand that is a very smart design feature that few others offer. Another big feature is that these wheels have smart off-road design cues built in. One of our favorite’s being the recession for the valve stem that prevents it from being damaged off off-road.

Even Tread

The Pintler wheel is a 17x8.5. That 8.5-inch width is what’s required by most tire manufacturers to run a 12.50-inch-wide tire. In fact, some tire and wheel shops will not mount a tire on a wheel that is too narrow by spec. The big advantage here is that you can run proper highway air pressure and retain a flat and even contact patch. This equates to better tire wear and doesn’t require you to sacrifice fuel economy or performance.

Keeping The Scrub Down

Getting a wheel with a high amount of backspacing was critical for a few reasons. Maybe the most important was the fact that a higher numerical backspacing figure would keep the additional leverage on the steering components to a minimum. AEV built the Pintler with 5.77 inches of backspacing, making it extremely close to factory specs. This means that we are keeping the scrub radius closer to stock and not putting extra stress on the OE ball joints, unit bearings, and steering system.

Undercover

We didn’t want to deal with the constant overspray of debris caused by wheel that pushes the tire too far outside of the flare. With an offset of plus 25mm, our AEV Pintler wheels keep the Ridge Grapplers nicely tucked under the fenders.

DIY RTI

Since we are still running the stock suspension, we were curious if the new wheelset would create any clearance issues. We knew that it would be close in spots as the inside of the stock front bumper doesn’t offer a lot of room. Since we didn’t have an RTI at the house but did have an S-10 on 40-inch-tall Mud Grapplers, we pulled the Gladiator on the front tire to check out the clearance all around. As you can see from the photo, the back tire of the Jeep is off of the ground. So, we would say we are a bit beyond where we would normally be on a standard RTI ramp.

Rear Fender Clearance

The rear tire was fully tucked, and we had plenty of room. Thanks to the backspacing, the tire stays just inside of where the fender starts to swoop down.

Front Fender Clearance

Upfront, it is much tighter. We do find that we occasionally rub on the inner fender line. Not enough where we feel that we need to modify anything, however. Overall, we are free from rubbing on the suspension and frame, which is critical. Another area that it is very tight is the inside of the front bumper. It hasn’t been an issue for the light wheeling we’ve done with the Jeep so far. However, we will keep an eye on it and update if it becomes a problem.

Things To Consider

One thing to consider when looking at wheels with the Gladiator platform is that the Rubicon, Mojave, and those equipped with Max Tow, will have wider axles. This helps keep the tire away from the frame and suspension components. We are most certainly tempted with the idea of running a 37x12.50 with a small lift one day. Given how the Pintler is configured, we could do so with no problem. At 35 pounds, the AEV wheels are a touch over ten pounds heavier than our stock Rubicon wheels. Our fuel economy generally roams between 15 to 17 and didn’t change in a measurable way with the AEV wheels. It’s also worth noting that our Gladiator has been calibrated for the tire size.  

More Adventures Coming

We are enjoying our Gladiator and have even more adventures (and a few upgrades) in store. At this point, we feel it’s safe to say that 35s and no lift on the Rubicon platform is easily achievable given the tire right tire and wheel configuration. If you are looking at aftermarket wheels, it’s pretty clear that you’ll need to be mindful of how much backspacing/offset the wheel has. Too little backspacing (3.5 inches for example) could present a clearance issue when flexing the Jeep with no lift and 35s due to how much farther the tire is pushed away from the vehicle. While Jeep recommends a 2-inch lift for 35s, the company also routinely shows that same recommend 2 inches of lift with a 37-inch-tall tire on concept vehicles. Take that for what you will.

Despite its humble roots, the 1988-2000 Honda Civic is becoming the most important enthusiast vehicles ever made. Controversial take? The evidence says "no."

More than just cheap and economical compact car, the Civics of the late ‘80s and ‘90s were laced with Honda’s racing DNA and were fun to drive even in their most basic trim. And that's before you get into the potential for modification. 

Tuner and track builds aside, there are two factory “halo” models of this generation that are beloved by enthusiasts and rising in value by the day—the EK9 Civic Type R and EM1 Civic Si.

Let's compare and contrast these two popular machines:

History

Initially debuting in 1997 and based on the EK-chassis Civic hatchback, the EK9 was the first Civic ever to wear the legendary Type R badge.

As with other Type R models like the NSX and Integra, the EK9 took the already good bones of the EK Civic and injected them with a heavy dose of Honda’s motorsport heritage—evident in its signature Championship White body color and bright red Recaro bucket seats.

The EM1 Civic Si debuted for the 1999 model year and was the fourth generation of the Si model and the first to use a two-door coupe body style (the previous versions were all hatchbacks).

The Si had always been the most performance-oriented of the American Civic lineup, and the EM1 upped the ante by using a twin cam powerpoint for the first time in the model’s history.

Specs

Under the hood of the Type R sat Under the hood sat a very special version of Honda’s B-series VTEC four cylinder engine, the B16B. It made 182 horsepower—which was an astonishing figure for a 1.6 liter naturally aspirated production engine.

The EK9’s chassis featured improved rigidity over other Civic models and was trimmed of non-essential features to save weight. It’s 8000+ RPM engine also put it’s power down through a close ratio five-speed manual transmission with a limited slip differential.

The EM1 was much more modest in its specs, but the B16A2 engine still made an impressive 160hp with the same reliability of any other Civic model.

While not nearly as aggressive as the JDM Type R model, the Si also got upgrades to its suspension setup and featured four-wheel disc brakes with 15-inch alloy wheels. A bright metallic color called Electron Blue Pearl was the EM1’s signature hue and helped make the car easily identifiable from afar.

Value & Rarity

Today, more than 20 years after they first appeared, clean examples of both cars are harder than ever to find—and the values for original versions of both have jumped massively.

Given all of its unique touches and race-ready appeal, the EK9 is a much rarer car than the EM1, with approximately 11,000 examples produced vs approximately 30,000 EM1s during its two-year run.

Both cars were often modified, the Type R often stripped out at used for circuit racing in Japan and the Si becoming one of the most popular vehicles at the peak of America’s import tuning movement.

At the moment an EK9 in Japan goes for anywhere between $15,000 and $35,000 depending on its mileage and condition, while a decent EM1 will fall into the same ballpark depending on condition. We also have to mention the 5,600 mile-example that sold on Bring a Trailer earlier this summer for an insane figure of $50,000.

Cultural Impact

Even here in the US where the Civic Type R was never sold, the EK9 became a thing of legend—inspiring numerous clone builds and being considered the ultimate version of one of the most popular tuning platforms of all time.

In fact, the rarity of the Type R only helped build up its legendary status, and now that they can the EK9 will soon be available as a legal import in the USA, it’s no wonder that its value is shooting up.

The EM1 Si on the other hand was always a much more attainable car, but the people that bought them new in North America probably didn’t imagine how sought after they would become just 20 years later.

While it didn’t have the same track-ready hardware the Type R, the EM1 Si was still the king of the mountain for North American Honda fans and features everything that made this generation of Civic so great.

While both the EM1 and the EK9 have been followed up by newer versions of the same model that are faster and more capable, they will likely always be considered the pinnacle.

In the most recent episode of my vlog series, The Auto Otaku I take a deeper look into what makes both these two models and all of the 1988-2000 Civics so special, so give it a watch and take a trip back with me to Honda’s golden era.

Though you can add numerous modifications to a custom truck, tires are what really make them move. Furthermore, a truck is only as good as its weakest link and there’s no reason to let tires hold you back. That’s definitely something to consider when you are dropping some coin in order to add some performance. With that being said, there’s no reason to skimp on getting the right tires for your ride. To help you choose the best tire for your slammed pickup, we have compiled a list of some of the best tire options for your lowered truck.

INVO

For those looking for a tire with ultra high performance on street driven vehicles, Nitto’s INVO is a great choice. This tire has a blend of performance, comfort and high quality wrapped up in one package.

Nitto’s INVO also has 3D Multiwave sipes were designed to “lock” together to react like a larger tread block to provide better traction during braking and acceleration. To further help in performance capabilities, tread flex is reduced with the modern silica-reinforced construction of these tires.

Not only is the tread pattern of the INVO stylish, it was also designed to perform under pressure. The solid center rib increases stability and constant connection with the pavement. Moving outward, the shoulder assists in dry performance and cornering with large reinforced tread blocks that increase the contact patch to roads. The tread design was also engineered to break up repetitive road noises and calm them down by producing offset frequencies. This line-up has great offerings for trucks with staggered fitments and was the perfect choice for the folks at Premier Street Rod and their ’57 Chevy 3100 pickup better known as Snow White. Since there are different sized wheels front to back on this truck, the 245/35ZR20 and 285/30ZR22 sized INVO tires fit the bill.

NT420S

In the world of modern trucks and SUV’s, the Nitto NT420S is a performance tire that works well on these larger vehicles. These tires also keep up with the demands of modern haulers with larger outer tread blocks that increase the amount of surface area for improved cornering and handling in dry situations.

Making this design good for all-seasons is the center pattern that channels water for optimum results. Additional siping that runs along the tread assists in creating biting edges for better gripping capabilities in wet conditions with the rain.

The NT420S also has fitments that work well with both factory and plus-sized aftermarket wheels. Maintenance is easier with these tires as the asymmetrical and non-directional tread helps with cross-rotation to help prevent uneven wear. When actor/comedian/recording artist, Nick Cannon decided to swap the factory 22’s on his ’19 Rolls-Royce Cullinan for 24-inch Savini SV61D forged wheels, he put his trust in a set of 305/35R24 Nitto NT420S tires in order to get him to high-profile events.

NT420V

Like its predecessor, the NT420V is a great choice for trucks driven during all-seasons. The design of the tread on this tire is incredibly attractive yet was designed for cross-rotation to help extend their lifespan on a truck.

The tread pattern also has strengths for both handling in dry weather and performing on wet surfaces as well. Helping to improve traction while cornering and dry performance is the large outer tread blocks. Assisting in wet weather is two wide channels to disperse water and lateral inner grooves that increase biting edges.

With increased wheel sizes and weight rating on modern trucks, the NT420V has many size offerings for factory and larger wheels. As if that wasn’t enough, these tires allow you to drive with comfort as the variable pitch block design helps to reduce aggravating road noise. For custom truck enthusiast Ellie “Mopar Ellie” Moreno, she chose a set of 275/45R22 and 305/40R22 NT420V tires for the custom 22x9 and 22x10 billet wheels on her ’14 Ram known as “Lonestar.”

Going deeper for those that have larger rigs with 20-24” wheels, the NT420V has increased load ratings. There are even options for LT-metric sizes for heavy-duty ¾ and 1-ton trucks. This means that with the right combination, your truck can run a low-profile tire and have the capability to tow a trailer. This was the exact reason why Jason Bowman of Big 10Garage chose a set of 265/40R22 NT420V tires for his slammed dually build recently.

NT555 G2

Performance minded pickups that require more traction will benefit from running a set of Nitto NT555 G2 tires. This is a great ultra high performance street tire that also has a super high “AA” traction rating.

The twin center blocks provide stability in straight lines and better corning can be had with the large tapered blocks. Excellent traction on wet pavement is accomplished with many grooves that clear water away from the contact patches.

This second generation of the NT555 also has reinforced shoulder treadblocks to improve wet and dry grip in corners. A silica compound acts as a bonding agent for the elements for high stiffness in all weather cornering. Looking for all these features, Matt Girard chose to run a set of 245/45ZR20 and 295/40ZR20 Nitto NT555 G2 tires to cover the custom billet wheels on his ’72 Ford F100.

NT555RII

For those looking to get the ultimate grip for straight line performance will want to go with Nitto’s NT555RII D.O.T. approved Drag radial tire. They have a UTQG 100 treadwear and “A” traction rating to further help you crush the competition.

Helping to launch a vehicle is a special compound for increased traction, while the large center ribs provide a constant contact patch. Additionally, the tread pattern and sizing options were generated so that you can pair them up with NT555 G2 tires for the non-drive axles.

This drag radial tire is also D.O.T.-compliant meaning that you can legally use them to drive to a track and pilot your truck down the strip. This all-in-one tire also has large circumferential grooves to assist in wet conditions in case it rains on the way to or while coming back from a track. For truck enthusiasts like Jorge Sanchez, this is the perfect tire to meet up with the demands of his custom ’16 Ford F150 known as “La Colorada.” His street driven truck has multiple purposes as it is ready for show and able to take on other drivers at the drag strip. Equipped with a set of 305/40R22 NT555RIII tires to fit his large Center Line wheels, Jorge’s truck is able to do it all in one package.

Choosing the Right Tire for Your Custom Pickup

As you can see, Nitto Tire has a wide spread of options for truck enthusiasts. Whether you are looking for an OE replacement, the ultimate in performance on the street or want to go full on at the drag strip, there’s a set of Nitto tires designed to handle each purpose.

The best approach is to determine what you want to do with your truck and then pick the tire that best suits your needs for a winning combination.

It's only the end of August, but boy, has it been one heck of a year! The Covid-19 pandemic put a twist on 2020 no one saw coming, stalling just about everything automotive related–be it car shows, cruise-ins, auctions, or races. No genre of vehicle, participant, or fan has been unaffected. But, with the never-ending changes has come creativity. Many auctions and races are being held without spectators; those that do have spectators are limiting numbers while putting other restrictions in place; and some events are going fully digital, like the many digital car shows that we've seen pop up this summer. What is our point? Well, there's no doubt that the passion for the industry is still there, and nowhere is this illustrated better than among Nitto's Ultra4 team drivers.

When King of the Hammers 2020 kicked off, Nitto team drivers were out in force, from two-time Kings Erik Miller and Loren Healy, to three-time King Shannon Campbell. Over a dozen other hopefuls just in the 4400 Class were also in the mix, launching their own race programs for a chance at the coveted title of King of the Hammers. In the end, Nitto swept the podium in the 4400 class, with Josh Blyler taking his first KOH crown, sharing the podium with fellow Nitto teamers Marcos Gomez and Erik Miller. Impressively, six out of the top 10 2020 KOH 4400-Class finishers were Nitto sponsored drivers, setting the team up for seemingly great outcomes at future 2020 races.

But after KOH, as we all know, things in the race world got a little crazy. Scheduled events were rescheduled and then ultimately canceled. Others were eventually pushed back to later dates and some even to different locations. By early summer, the chances of only a couple of Ultra4 races in the 2020 season were becoming very real.

4WP Tear Down in Tennessee Results

Fast forward to the fourth weekend of July, and alas, light at the end of the dormant race season tunnel–the 4WP Tear Down in Tennessee. Held at Adventure Offroad Park in Pittsburg, TN, this event offered a chance for racers to stretch their legs again and the amount of Nitto drivers that showed up was impressive. While we'd expect to see many of the traditionally Eastern Series racers show, many others from all across the States made the drive to compete in the first regional race allowed to go on of 2020.

From the East Coast, Current King Josh Blyler and his dad Rusty made the trip, along with Erik Miller, Derek West, and Nate Gesse. Mid-landers Wayland, Bailey and Shannon Campbell all drove from Arizona to compete, while two-time King Loren Healy and the incredibly talented Paul Horschel made the trip from New Mexico and Utah respectively. Rounding out the dozen Nitto drivers in the 4400 class, Bailey Cole from California, and recent entry into the Ultra4 world, Texas' John Moul, made the drive for a bit of racing action. Other Nitto-sponsored drivers that competed at the Tennessee race included Cade Rodd and Casey Gilbert in the 4800 class, and John Roginsky in the UTV class.

Once again, we saw a Nitto sweep of the podium, with Erik Miller taking top honors close to home, sharing the podium with second-place, Josh Blyler, and third-place, Bailey Campbell.

The next race in the Ultra4 season is a non-points race set to be held at Crandon International Off-Road Raceway at the beginning of September, where we'll see some Nitto representation for sure! So far, we know Horschel and Gesse will be there representing the 4400 Class, while John Rajski will be making a statement in his 4800 Class car.

The Only Western Race in 2020: Lasernut BFE Beatdown

In mid-September, Ultra4 is heading to Moab, Utah for the Lasernut BFE Beatdown–the only Western Series race to run in 2020. Taking place in the heart of the off-road world, we expect to see a number of Nitto drivers compete, although we'll let them confirm their intended involvement for themselves as the event gets closer.

Moved from Reno, NV, this race will add the element of a new place and new terrain for many competitors, but knowing our drivers, many have already explored Moab in depth and won't be surprised by any twists, turns and notorious obstacles thrown in by Ultra4. The real question is could we see a third Team Nitto sweep of the podium at Area BFE?

National Championship

The National Championship in late October will end the 2020 Ultra4 race season. Set to be held at Cross Bar Ranch in Davis, Oklahoma, the Nationals will take on a different feel than in previous years compared to its previous location for the last few years, Wild West Motorsports Park in Reno. Nonetheless, we expect the end-of-the-year competition to be just as fierce, if not more so, to finish off the 2020 race season.

Here's to seeing Team Nitto continue to show their enthusiasm for the sport despite the obstacles of 2020! Check back with Driving Line for more Ultra4 racing news.

Are you a weekend camper, a seven-day adventurer, or planning a future filled with overland exploration? Either way, you’ll need the right cooler to chill your food and beverages for the entirety of your trip off the grid. Fortunately for you, I’ve experienced a fair share of coolers across all price ranges, so you can learn from my mistakes and start off with the best option for your specific needs. Will my five coolers live up to what each manufacturer promises? We’re about to find out in the ultimate race to a liquid finish.   

The lineup includes the world-renowned Yeti cooler, an Ozark Trail knock-off brand, and a mid-grade Rubbermaid. Just for the fun of it, I also tested out my “SHITI” cooler, an old school Coleman cooler that’s potentially as old as I am, and my trusty old weekend party icebox that is usually stored deep within the depths of my storage shed. I’m about to remember why I put it in the shed in the first place. Let the races begin.

The Cooler Test Setup

With 50-dollars’ worth of cubes, I filled the five coolers with ice, set up the thermometer probes and closed the lids at 9 am. The temperatures shot down to 25 ºF, then dropped to a steady 32-degrees in each within the first hour. Daytime temperatures throughout the experiment ranged from 82 and 90 degrees in full to partial sun with night temperatures dropping to an average of 65-degrees. The coolers were only opened once per day at noon for a quick temperature check and photograph.

Which Cooler is the Coolest?

The weekend party cooler, which I should have called “the overnighter” was already out of the running on day two. By noon, the water was warm enough for a relaxing foot soak of which I did not indulge. I would be disappointed, but to be fair, it’s really only meant to keep lunches or beach time beverages cold for a few hours. Aside from the overnighter dropping out of the running within 24 hours, the remaining four coolers held on to their low-30s temps through the third day. Ice remained solid in the Yeti through day four. The Ozark Trail began to flood, a water pool forming around the edges of the otherwise bonded cubes, but like the Yeti its temperature held steady at 32-degrees. The Rubbermaid showed signs of getting burned out with a temperature jump to 34-degrees and very little ice remaining.

By day five, what was once ice in the ol’ SHITI cooler was liquefied at 48-degrees and poured over the sun scorched lawn. The SHITI cooler wasn’t so “SHITI” after all. It was a quality cooler in its day and held its own in the competition despite a rusty bottom and cracked seals, but there’s no way it can keep up with today’s modern insulation technology. The Ozark Trail still held onto a few floaters (ahem, ice cube remnants), but all was melted by the sixth day–an impressive result considering the brand’s promise of keeping cool for at least 4.5 days. The Rubbermaid became a 53-degree water bath on the seventh day, but it did (more than) hold up to its promise of keeping things cool for five days.

The Clear Winner

What about the Yeti? Frankly, I got bored waiting for it to tire itself out. Ice still remained on the 11^th day, though there was more water than cubes. I admittedly forgot to check it on the 12^th and 13^th days, but on day 14 the water that remained was resting at 40-degrees. The Yeti clearly lost the race with its slow melting rate, which in this case is a good thing.

Notes to Consider...Get a Second Cooler

I’ll go ahead and state the obvious: for the experiment I only opened the coolers once per day, whereas in a real-life scenario, the boxes would be opened much more frequently and more cold air would escape. Speaking of the constant opening of coolers, especially for the sake of hydration, keeping your food and beverages separated into two coolers will keep your food colder longer, and at a more stable temperature. Digging underneath your food to find a cold beer at the bottom is not only a hassle but a major waste of energy. So, if you can afford it, a second cooler can really help your perishable food items stay colder and safer for longer. I used the off-brand Ozark Trail for beverages and the Yeti for food over the last year with great success.

Proper Packing Preparation and Optimization Techniques

To give your cooler(s) an advantage, take it out of the hot storage shed, attic or garage and into your home at least a day before your trip. You want the cooler’s starting core temperature to be as low as possible. If you’re really getting serious, fill it with cold tap water and sacrifice a bag or two of ice and let it sit for 12 hours. Dump the ice water right before you pack.

Transfer your food into re-sealable, leak proof containers, that way your cooler won’t reek of hot dog juice and more space is gained by eliminating excess packaging. For longer trips, you will want to freeze as much of your food as possible. Don’t freeze the food you plan to eat on the first night, but freeze those mid-trip shish kabobs and the celebratory steak you’re planning for the final day. You can also freeze water bottles as long as you empty ¼ of the liquid to allow for expansion. Everything that is not frozen should be refrigerated beforehand. No room temperature items should go into the cooler if you can avoid it, otherwise, you waste your ice by cooling things down instead of simply keeping already cold things cold.

The best ice foundation is either block ice or large reusable freezer packs. Solid blocks of ice take much longer to melt. If you don’t have freezer packs, try re-using appropriately shaped juice jugs without handles or liter bottles. Place these at the bottom of your cooler and build on top of them, starting with your pre-frozen meats and ending with eggs and fragile produce.

Empty air space is the enemy when it comes to cooling longevity, and ice cubes do a great job at filling any empty space between food items. Dry ice is also an option for exceptionally long trips. It’s extremely cold and will freeze anything it touches (including fingers) so be very cautious. I’ve deemed myself too accident prone and have not turned to using the dry ice method.

Finally, once your rig is packed and ready to go, the cooler(s) should be the last thing to be placed into the vehicle. Avoid putting it in hot areas like a trunk and keep it in the shade as much as possible during the entirety of your trip.

Other Notes to Consider:

One more thing: though it may be tempting to drain the meltwater that your wieners are floating in, it has been scientifically proven that it is better to leave the melted water in the cooler rather than draining it.

The pace of change can be glacially slow for some SUV builders, and nowhere is this more true than at Toyota, which currently offers a pair of mid-size off-road 4x4s that haven't changed much in over a decade.

Lexus GX 460 vs Toyota 4Runner 4x4

Both the 2020 Lexus GX 460 and 2020 Toyota 4Runner have been given a few cosmetic updates in the ensuing years (with the current Lexus model representing its most comprehensive visual refresh), but for the most part they're still riding on the same bones as they did when the current generation of each was introduced all the way back in 2009. The recipe is a familiar one: a full frame chassis, low-range four-wheel drive, and a decent amount of interior space wrapped in an upright, truck-like package.

Although the two vehicles share more than a few mechanical details (as they are both linked to Toyota's J150 frame), each is aimed at a very different customer. The 4Runner, at its base, is an affordable way to get off-road, while the GX 460 courts luxury customers with its higher sticker price and ostensibly deeper feature set.

That being said, after spending time with the Lexus it's clear that this well-aged truck has a lot more in common with its Toyota counterpart than it does with the rest of the premium hauler set, which has pretty much moved on from the body-on-frame school of SUV design. With that in mind we were curious as to how much of an upgrade it truly presents to 4Runner fans seeking a plusher ride that can still get from the trailhead to the trail exit without breaking a sweat.

Comparable Comparables

Why did Lexus choose to stand apart from rivals like BMW and Audi by delivering a traditional truck in a market that's more apt to go for a sport-utility that's based on a sedan platform? In a word, cost. The GX 460 is sold in other markets around the world as the Toyota Land Cruiser Prado, and being able to leverage the economies of scale that go with a mass-produced SUV like the Prado makes it relatively cheap for Lexus to fill a mid-size hole in their showroom.

On the flip-side, this global synergy is a major boost to off-road fans, because everything the Prado can do once the asphalt ends is echoed by its Lexus cousin. Equipped with full-time four-wheel drive, a locking Torsen center differential, an adjustable ride height air suspension, and Toyota's trick KDSS 'dynamic' two-piece sway bar system (that uses hydraulics to improve articulation by allowing independent wheel movement, without sacrificing on-road stability), there's a lot of gear underneath the GX's extroverted metal-and-chrome skin. Throw in a little extra cash and you can benefit from the crawl control and terrain select systems that come with the optional Off-Road package, too.

If any of this sounds familiar to 4Runner fans, that's because it's almost dittoed on higher trim levels of the Toyota. The TRD Off-Road edition of the SUV is almost a carbon copy of the GX when it comes to trail-specific equipment (with the TRD Pro tagging in more hardcore FOX shocks but losing KDSS in the process), although it substitutes a part-time four-wheel drive system and deletes the ride height control.

With comparable widths and wheelbases, it's no surprise that both the GX 460 and the 4Runner are equally formidable when it comes to dispatching off-road obstacles. As long as you avoid side-steps, the 4Runner enjoys a 1.5 inch advantage in ground clearance (with the Lexus featuring lower rocker skirts), and it's also got less obtrusive front and rear overhangs, although only just. For extreme situations the Toyota is going to pull through with less damage (read: scraping), but the Lexus is right there alongside it, if somewhat worse for the wear.

Differences Under The Hood

There are two main areas where the 4Runner and the GX 460 diverge. The first is in the engine bay, where the Toyota's 4.0L V6 (270hp, 278 lb-ft of torque) is out-performed on paper by the Lexus' 4.6L V8 (301hp, 329 lb-ft torque).

On paper it looks like a mismatch, but in the real world the differences between the two drivetrains are more qualitative than quantitative. Despite the power gap, the V8 Lexus is only half a second quicker to 60-mph than the Toyota's V6, largely due to the luxury bulk embedded in the GX.

More impactful is the unusual tuning of the eight-cylinder's throttle response, which doles out its torque with a lazy reluctance that takes a while to build to a boil. Matched with its six-speed automatic transmission's similarly slow-and-steady approach, the GX 460's driving experience is among the softest on the market, a fact emphasized by body roll in the corners and a complete disconnect from the road below when its adaptive dampers are set to their most indulgent.

In contrast the V6 in the 4Runner is thrashy, its noisiness amplified by the five-speed automatic's strong desire for an additional forward cog during highway cruising. Handling is comparable to that of the Lexus without the attenuation of a luxury-oriented suspension system, with the 4Runner trading insulation for a more straightforward drive.

Yesterday's Luxury

The second sticking point between the two vehicles is found in their respective interiors. As expected, the Toyota entry is the more austere of the pair, and as long as you stick with an affordable trim level you won't be overly disappointed with its interior materials and features, no matter how far they've lagged behind the rest of the SUV segment.

The Lexus is somewhat of a different story. Yes, there's more leather and wood within its confines than what you'll find in the 4Runner, but the GX has suffered from a similar stasis when it comes to development, and it's much more apparent when contrasted against its upscale rivals from both Europe and North America. If you put the Lexus interior inside the 4Runner, you'd have a good approximation of what Toyota should be bringing to its top trim trucks, but as a reflection of the Lexus badge, it's a letdown.

The GX 460 also adds an extra row of accommodations compared to the 4Runner. In the real world, this back-back situation is strictly for kids, and it eats up sizable amounts of cargo space due to the taller load floor hiding the fold-down seats. Match that up with the massive swing-out tailgate (that blocks the curb and forces you to load from the street side), and the 4Runner is much easier to live with from a hauling perspective.

Bargain Toyota Is The Better Buy

Looking at the 4Runner line-up, you might be startled to see that the TRD-PRO model is sitting only $10k below the base GX 460, which starts at $53,000. For hardcore off-road fans, however, the gap is much wider, as you have to select the top-tier 'Luxury' trim on the Lexus in order to access the Off-Road package with its electronic driver's aids and additional skid plates (all of which are available with more affordable versions of the Toyota).

More to the point is the fact that you have to suffer through a serious amount of sheen to access any of the GX 460's advantages in power, so muted are they by the vault-like driving experience fronted by the Lexus. It's truly an unusual SUV in this respect, and with its somewhat pedestrian interior it's hard to see why most luxury buyers would put it on their short list. Unlike other high-end off-road options from Land Rover (the Range Rover Sport) or Mercedes-Benz (the G-Class), the GX feels like it's marking time while Lexus plans its next mid-size move.

The Toyota 4Runner's wide range of models make it more appealing for off-road fans who want a reliable and capable rig that's not going to break their heart if it gets scratched up during some weekend fun. If Toyota could somehow see its way to swapping in the GX's six-speed autobox and bring its cabin up to par with what can be found in the family-oriented Highlander or RAV4, then they'd have a much more competitive out-of-the-box 4x4 on their hands.