Tire tech has become more specialized over time. New materials and the latest research mean more options tailored to your type of driving; that's the upside. The downside is figuring out how to sort through the wealth of options available to us. That's as true of light truck tires as it is performance cars, motorcycles, ATVs, and so on. Narrowing down what's best for your truck is a matter of figuring out what you don't want as much as it is what you do want.

Be it off-road action or street cruising comfortably, Nitto packs high-quality options in the tire department. Their Grapplers have you covered whether you're assaulting mud, trails, rocks, or just looking for longevity on the road. Not only do they come in popular 16 to 24-inch rim sizes, but you can get Nitto tires in bigger overall sizes if your truck or SUV is lifted, as well. Moreover, Nitto uses its latest tech to ensure the tires are exceptionally uniform and easier to balance, too. Here's our quick primer on sorting through those options to find the right tire for your truck.

Define "All-Terrain"

You'd think the name says it all, wouldn't you? All. Terrain. On-road, off-road. That's not necessarily the case, though.

Like the name says, all-terrain tires are the kings of versatility. Meaning, they're great for casual driving both on and off the pavement. What they aren't are the quietest street tires nor specialized for aggressive off-roading. Their tread design, sidewall strength, and towing capability are all designed with that sort of versatility in mind. Get more in-depth insight into all-terrain tires here.

What Can a Mud-Terrain Do for You?

Mud comes into play in most places off-roaders like to play. Not so much the desert but most anywhere else. Mud has been the Great Enemy of forward momentum since armies fought each other from chariots.

Original "mud tires" were little more than glorified tractor tires, but its modern descendants pack advances like radial construction (which helps them on the road), improved tread design, and better rubber compounds. Factors like tread spacing to clear mud from the tire ASAP, separate mudders from their all-terrain cousins. Modern mud-terrain radials are well-engineered marvels that dig through the roughest terrain while remaining smooth on the highway. While there are many contenders on the market, few hit the mark like the Nitto Trail Grappler. Find out more about mud terrain tires here.

What's the Difference Between All-Terrain and Mud-Terrain?

Knowing your terrain is as important as knowing your options when choosing tires for your truck or SUV. The basic tire choice, of course, is mud versus all-terrain.

Other environments are more favorable to one type or the other, though. Sand, for example, demands a large footprint so you can stay on top of all that looseness. Mud tires don't cut it there so well. Other than running specialized sand paddle tires on the rear of your vehicle, all-terrain rubber is generally better for sand. Similarly, other than a specialty tire, snow is another area where a specialty tires are better over all-terrain or mud-terrain tires. If you need a studded snow tire, consider the Nitto Exo-Grappler. There's some debate over which of the two tires is better for tackling rock but in areas with high traction, all-terrain tread patterns generally give better traction than mud-tires do. If you run in desert two-track terrain in the Southwest, you know higher speed is more common. Both the Trail Grappler and Terra Grappler G2 are built with a heavy-duty carcass, making them suitable in this terrain. If you want something in between a mud tire and an all-terrain, though, consider the Ridge Grappler. Nitto spaced it between the Trail Grappler and Terra Grappler G2. Get more insight into all-terrain and mud tires here.

Come on, Feel the Noise. Or Don't

Road noise isn't a factor if you're not, um, on the road. Most of us drive to where we off-road rather than trailering a dedicated rough-terrain only four-wheeler with us, so, road noise may be factor in choosing tires for your light truck or SUV.

While modern mud tires are worlds quieter on the road than in previous generations, all-terrain tires still edge them out. Hybrid terrain tires like the Ridge Grappler, though, offer more bite than a dedicated all-terrain tire with less road noise on the pavement than a mud-tire. Having said all of that, you may want to bear in mind that the latest and greatest truck cabs are engineered to be extremely quiet as well. Read more about tire noise here.

Numbers Racket: DOT Code

Perhaps the most detailed source of information in choosing a tire is written on the tires themselves. Unfortunately, not all of us read tread patterns like so many gypsy tea leaves.

Luckily, the tire size, DOT code (Dept of Transportation code for date, location, and product size), load range (how much weight each tire safely carries at maximum inflation pressure), and weather rating (types of terrain and weather the tire are suited for) are all printed right on your tires for you to read. That is, if you know how. For example, the LT285/70/R18 on a Nitto Ridge Grappler speaks volumes. LT stands for "light truck." If the numbers were preceded by the letter “P,” it would mean it was a passenger car tire. The next set of numbers, “285” tells you the width of the tire’s tread in millimeters while the second number, 70, is the aspect ratio of the tire (ie 70% of the total width of 285mm). The letter “R18" lets us know this is a radial tire with an 18-inch wheel diameter. It should be noted that metric sized tires usually pack more variety in sizing, ranging from short, wider tires, to tall, skinny tires. Decipher the code here.

After a long wait, Ford finally unveiled the 2021 Bronco SUV this week and from first impressions it looks like they may have a hit on their hands. Not only has the Bronco dominated the conversation among enthusiasts, interest in its release has gone beyond just the automotive community and into the mainstream.

Needless to say, a lot of people have been wondering how Jeep is going to respond to the reemergence of the Bronco into the 4x4 market. Well, it didn't take long for Jeep to fire back. In fact, Jeep actually released a new concept Wrangler just before the Bronco made its debut—and it comes packing a lot of muscle. 

As we pointed out in our comparison article, one of the areas where the new Bronco looks to best the Jeep is in the performance department. Both the Bronco's standard 2.3 liter EcoBoost four cylinder and its optional 2.7 liter V6 EcoBoost bring a sizable advantage in power and torque over the Wrangler's current offerings.

That advantage though, is nothing some old fashioned V8 muscle can't overcome. And that's how you get the Wrangler Rubicon 392 Concept that Jeep showed us just before the big Bronco launch event. 

As its name says, the Wrangler 392 packs the 6.4 liter V8 Hemi V8 from cars like the Dodge Challenger and Grand Cherokee SRT into the Wrangler. In this application Jeep says the Hemi makes 450 horsepower, which is a massive jump from any of the engines currently offered in the Wrangler.

While aftermarket companies have been stuffing various V8s into Wranglers for years, a factory Hemi offering would be a big deal. And with the Bronco getting so much attention there's good reason to believe this is more than just an experimental concept.

FCA has shown no hesitation to "Hemi" all the things, and a Wrangler with some serious V8 horsepower under the hood could be just the thing to fight back. While a Wrangler isn't a vehicle many choose for its raw performance, having that kind of power under the hood could make a big difference—particularly when you start fitting a Jeep with big tires and other off-road gear that can sap power out of the base 3.6 liter V6 engine.

All in all, the chances of a Hemi-powered Wrangler becoming a reality seem strong. We wouldn't be surprised to see a production version confirmed in the near future - perhaps even before the Bronco arrives in dealerships. But an inevitable V8-powered Wrangler isn't the only bit of ammunition that Jeep has to fight the Bronco. If you'll recall earlier this year at CES Jeep showed off a plug-in Wrangler concept dubbed 4XE.

The plug-in hybrid Wrangler is still on track to debut in the later part of this year, with Jeep recently putting out a short teaser film showing the Wrangler 4XE hitting up the trail in total silence. 

Technical details on the plug-in Wrangler are still sparse, but rumors suggest a an electric-assisted version of the 2.0 turbo four-cylinder that will be capable of around 30 miles of all-electric driving. 

And What About the Pickups?

It's hard to mention Jeep's plans for the Wrangler without mentioning its Gladiator pickup truck twin. If Jeep is committed to dropping a Hemi V8 into the Wrangler lineup, there's no reason for them not to add one to the Gladiator as well.

In fact, in Jeep's initial teaser shot of the Rubicon 392 Concept it wasn't clear whether they were showing a Wrangler or Gladiator.

As with the Wrangler, it now seems a matter of "when" not "if" a Hemi V8 version of the Gladiator joins the lineup. And having some serious horsepower available should make the Jeep pickup an even bigger hit.

Not to be left out, there's been plenty of rumors that the currently announced Broncos are just the beginning of Ford's effort. Seeing as its already based on the Ranger platform, a pickup version of the Bronco would not be surprising to see in the future.

We've also heard some rumblings (no pun intended) that a V8 version of the Bronco may also be way in the works. Whether this would be the popular 5.0 Coyote V8 or maybe even the supercharged engine from the Shelby GT500 Mustang remains to be see—but if there's one area where the new Bronco might upset purists, it would be lack of the traditional V8 power. 

Whether you are a loyal Ford fan, Jeep purist or someone trying to decide between both, there are going to be some exciting times in the battle for 4x4 supremacy. Things are just getting started.

Click here to read our comparison of the new Bronco to the 4Runner and Wrangler.

Thanks to its hydraulically actuated, electronically controlled unit injection system (HEUI), the 7.3L Power Stroke has some of the hardest-working engine oil in the world. Not only is it pressurized to roughly 60-psi for proper lubrication, but it also gets pressurized to 3,000 psi or more in the injection system’s high-pressure circuit. This extreme pressure builds a ton of heat, so it goes without saying that the oil cooler is a vital component in the sum of all the 7.3L’s parts. Luckily, the 7.3L’s oil cooler is typically as reliable as the rest of the rotating assembly, often lasting a couple decades before experiencing any issues (which seldom includes outright failure). However, nothing lasts forever. When we noticed a few oil spots under the driver side of our old-body-style (OBS) Ford workhorse, we knew it was time for an oil cooler overhaul. And being that this oil cooler lasted nearly 25 years, it may just be the last service it ever needs. Follow along for the tips and tricks you’ll need to know to tackle this fairly straightforward job in your own driveway.

Textbook Oil Cooler Leak

If you spot a few drops or a small puddle of oil under the driver side of the ’94.5-’03 7.3L Power Stroke engine, chances are pretty good it’s from the oil cooler. Hint: if the leak is discovered on the passenger side it’s probably from the dipstick tube adapter. The most common type of oil cooler failure is depicted above, where the outer O-rings fail, allowing oil to seep from the ends where the oil cooler presses into the headers.

Brace Yourself For A (Potential) Mess

To remove the oil cooler, start by draining the coolant and loosening the oil filter. Have drain pans ready to collect everything or things will get messy fast. To better access the pair of 10mm bolts in the front oil cooler header, you can pull the lower radiator hose. Three 10mm bolts connect the rear header to the oil cooler pad along the block. Before you loosen those, make sure to remove your block heater from the oil filter base.

Dislodging And Dropping the Oil Cooler

Even with all the mounting bolts broken loose, the oil cooler headers will likely both have to be pried free. To avoid damaging the front cover (what the front header connects to), start with the rear header. You can use a small pry bar or flat head screwdriver to separate it from the block. From there you can remove the oil cooler and both the front and rear headers as a single assembly.

Breaking Down the Oil Cooler

Next, discard the original front and rear mounting gaskets and begin the process of pulling the oil cooler housing (the tube) out of the headers. In our experience, it pays to place a small pry bar between the metal tab that’s riveted onto the oil cooler tube and the front header to force the two apart. The rear header isn’t usually as easy, so don’t be afraid to break out the rubber mallet for a little coaxing, but at the same time don’t Hulk-out. A new OE rear header will cost you more than $400, as this is the side that integrates the oil filter base.

The Culprit

The offending O-ring in our case was the outer O-ring positioned at the rear header. Instead of the rubber seal having round edges, it was flat. In addition, its exposure to the rusted oil cooler tube had allowed it to also begin rusting. The remaining three O-rings didn’t look so hot, either. We picked them all off of the oil cooler tube and started with fresh inner and outer versions. The inner O-rings carry Ford part number 1C3Z-6C610-BA, the outers are PN 1C3Z-6K649-BA and they can be had in all-inclusive oil cooler re-seal kits for between $60 and $80. Always stick with genuine Ford (or International) parts when performing this job. Think about it, the fact that the oil cooler O-rings can last a quarter of a century should be all the convincing you need to stick with factory components.

Reusing the Oil Cooler Tube (When Applicable) Saves Money

On 7.3L applications that see prolonged exposure to road salt, precipitation and humidity, the oil cooler tube itself can rot from the outside inward, requiring more than the simple re-seal we were able to get away with (note that the 7.3L’s oil cooler rarely ever fails internally). If you’re not as fortunate as we were and have to replace the entire oil cooler tube, a replacement from Ford will run you $200 to $250, depending on where it’s sourced (and that part number is 1C3Z-6A642-AA). Notice that the aforementioned inner and outer O-rings have been installed here, and you might also note that we cleaned the oil cooler tube, inside and out.

Reassembly

With the new inner and outer O-rings installed, thoroughly clean the gasket mounting surfaces on the front and rear header. Then lubricate the insides of the headers and O-rings (we used fresh engine oil), so as to not roll or tear the O-rings, and press the headers back onto the oil cooler tube by hand. Before you install the freshly O-ringed oil cooler, also make sure you clean up the mounting points for the headers on the block and timing cover. A Scotch-Brite pad and a die grinder work great for this.

Front & Rear Mounting Gaskets

These are the two mounting gaskets you’ll need to reattach the oil cooler headers to the engine. Even though Ford states they’re reusable, after 20-plus years of service it’s best to start fresh to guarantee leak-free functionality for the foreseeable future. We started with the front gasket (Ford PN F7TZ-6A636-AAA, shown on the right), positioning it between the front oil cooler header and the timing cover while installing the 10mm mounting bolts. We left the bolts loose until the rear gasket (PN F4TZ-6A636-A) and rear section of the oil cooler was reattached. Then all five mounting bolts were tightened and torqued to Ford’s 18 ft-lb spec.

Lift Not Required (But It Sure Helps)

You don’t have to put your 7.3L on a lift to change its oil cooler…but it helps. Also, don’t forget to reattach the lower radiator hose (if you removed it), top-off the coolant, reinstall the oil filter and top-off the oil when you’re done. If all went well, your 7.3L’s oil cooler should give you another 10, 15 or even 20-plus years of trouble free service.

Thinking your old 7.3L needs a wake-up call in terms of performance? Find out how to make power on a budget here.

On July 17, Honda announced that the Civic Coupe would not have a future beyond the current, tenth generation. Making its debut in 1993, the Civic Coupe was Honda’s compact entry in the popular, sporty two-door segment, joining other names like the Paseo, Sentra, Neon and Beretta. Here's a list of some of the more notable versions of the beloved model from throughout the years:

Early Generations

Differentiated from the long-popular two-door hatchback, the Coupe instead added a separate trunk to Honda's smallest offering.

With the hatchback receiving the majority of the performance love with its Si and JDM Si-R models, the Coupe seemed to be positioned more as a fashion statement than anything else. The Civic EX model, however, did offer many of the same appointments as the Si model, including the SOHC D16Z6 VTEC engine with a whopping 125 hp.

Although the US engine offerings were not especially exciting for this generation, the interchangeability of more powerful JDM engines, as well as larger engine options from the Civic’s Integra cousin, these Civics helped to ignite tuner culture in the nineties.

Sixth Generation

For the sixth generation, the outlook for a truly sporty Civic Coupe seemed more bleak than before. While it was again offered in the usual Honda DX, LX, and EX pedestrian models, the early absence of a performance model in the US meant that an enthusiast-spec from the factory wasn’t in the cards.

The Coupe was exclusively offered in an HX economy model, however, that borrowed most of the DX trim but was powered by a VTEC-E engine that could either be paired with an early version of Honda’s CVT transmission or a 5 speed manual. The HX wheels became a popular choice for Honda tuners though, weighing in a ridiculously light 11.75 lbs a piece.

'99 Civic Si Coupe

Of course, good things come to those who wait. In 1999, Honda released the Si model, available only as a Coupe. Powered by the now legendary B16A2, this Si would come to define Honda’s mainstream FWD performance for years to come.

More than just an engine upgrade, the Si saw changes to the suspension, transmission, brakes and interior. The exterior, available in an Si exclusive Electron Blue Pearl, was actually pretty restrained, adding only a mild front spoiler, painted side skirts, Si-specific wheels, and Si badging.

Seventh Generation

The seventh generation of the Civic would once again push the Civic Coupe into also-ran status as the Si model returned to the England-made EP3 hatchback. Nevertheless, it soldiered on as a slightly sexier version of the humble Civic sedan, offering efficiency and reliability to commuters.

Eighth and Ninth Generations

After the EP3, Honda decided that the Si needed to return to the Coupe line. The eighth and ninth generation models were both given high performance versions of Honda’s K series of engines, with a 197hp 2.0L for the 2006 model, and a 201hp 2.4L coming in 2012.

 With the departure of the competing Integra/RSX model from Acura, the Civic Si had freedom to employ the best 4 cylinder engines that Honda had available at the time.

Tenth (Final?) Generation

The final Civic Coupe’s story was similar to the last, serving both as a commuter and as the Si model. Powered by Honda’s 1.5L turbo four, the Civic Si makes 205hp and is routed through a six speed transmission. For the tenth generation, the Coupe was offered in an exclusive Energy Green Pearl that recalls some of the wild colors employed by the earliest Civic tuners of the nineties.

With the death the Accord Coupe in 2017, the writing was certainly on the wall for the Civic Coupe. Consumers have shown that utility is the next sexy, flocking away from the sporty coupes that defined “cool” in the latter half of the 20^th century. When Honda shared the Si package with the sedan beginning in 2006, much of the incentive to opt for the Coupe was removed, especially as the aspirational Type R models utilized the hatchback and sedan body styles.

All that said, the Civic Coupe won’t fade into history that easy. An example of the EM1 Civic Si recently sold for $50,000, and non-modified driver quality versions are becoming more and more difficult to find for under $10,000.

The Civic Coupe represents a period in time that many enthusiasts look back on fondly, from the first time they saw the body-kitted neon-underglow Civic Coupes of the original Fast and the Furious, to hopes of making a sleeper out of a humble Civic HX with an elusive JDM engine. 'Til the tides turn again, we’ll pour one out for the Civic Coupe.

Inspired to pick up a Civic? The 2020 Civic Type R is hotter than ever. 

The Polaris Rzr XP4 1000 is the UTV industry’s top-selling four-seater, and for good reason. No, it doesn’t come with smart suspension, Ride Command or a 7-inch touch screen display, but its price point places it right in the thick of things amid a growing sea of competitors and its 110hp ProStar engine doesn’t overpower the chassis—one of the more proven chassis’ in the segment. In our first 20 hours aboard the Rzr we’ve spent time in the mud, navigating tight, wooded trails, blasting 70-mph out in the open and clawing up our fair share hills. If you’re looking for the scoop behind the machine that is currently the benchmark of the SxS world, keep scrolling.

It’s Big, But Not A Problem On Most Trails

While a machine that encompasses more than 12 feet of overall length (146-inches tire to tire, in this case), is 64 inches wide and measures nearly 74 inches tall may seem large to dirt bike and ATV riders, the majority of the trails at public and private off-road parks accommodate it just fine. As UTV’s emerged and became more and more popular, the trails have naturally become wider at most venues. To date, we’ve been pleasantly surprised with the lack of belly scraping the Rzr XP4 1000 has seen, too. Thanks to its 14-inches of ground clearance and 117-inch wheel base, hang-ups are a rarity.

The “4” In XP 4

Polaris recently redesigned the cockpit to foster more driver confidence and vastly improved ergonomics, but the kids in the back of the bus will be happy, too. There is ample room for youthful legs and feet—although adults upward of 6-feet may try to bribe you for a spot up front or at least a front seat adjustment. Yes, that’s a pool noodle. And no, it didn’t come from Polaris.

Highly Visible Vitals

Dual-sweep analog dials for mph and rpm, and a 4-inch LCD rider information center makes it easy to view all the Rzr’s key parameters. Everything from the machine’s odometer, trip meter and hour meter to coolant temp, voltmeter and gear indicator is highly visible. There is even a seat belt reminder, which won’t allow you to top 15 mph until you buckle up. The screen’s blue/red backlighting and brightness can be configured to your liking and you can even program your own service intervals. To the right of the gauge cluster, you’ll find the switch for the LED headlights and On-Demand AWD system, along with a DC outlet.

20 Inches of Suspension Travel

Much of the XP 4 1000’s acclaimed off-road prowess stems from its suspension system. Up front, a dual A-arm arrangement (complete with a stabilizer bar) incorporates 2-inch diameter Walker Evans Racing needle shocks and provides up to 20-inches of usable travel. Trailing arms with a stabilizer bar are employed in the rear, along with 2.5-inch diameter Walker Evans Racing needle shocks. Each shock features 16-position adjustability but leaves the factory dead in the middle. We haven’t made any adjustments yet.

A Well-Refined 110 HP

We would describe the naturally-aspirated ProStar HO engine as being very responsive while at the same time not being overly “touchy.” It’s right there when you need it, but it’s not so eager to melt the tires that you’re constantly breaking traction. The liquid-cooled, 999cc, DOHC twin-cylinder 4-stroke features electronic fuel injection and cranks out 110 hp. It’s backed by an automatic belt-driven PVT transmission. We’re big fans of the engine’s throaty factory exhaust note, too, as it almost makes it feel like you’re driving the muscle car of UTV’s.

A Jeep-Like Aftermarket

What you won’t find on an XP 4 1000 that just left the factory is lower door inserts, nerf bars, rear and sideview mirrors, a roof or a windshield. But hey, that’s what the aftermarket is for, right? The plastic lower door inserts shown here are Tusk units from Rocky Mountain ATV, were a breeze to install and had zero alignment issues. The nerf bars are made from 1.25-inch OD steel tubing and came from UTV Giant. Now to find a winch, bumpers, radio, back glass, CV boot savers, door pads, a cooler and about a million other things…

We’d Give It A 9 Out Of 10

In our first 152 miles behind the wheel of Polaris’ latest Rzr XP 4 1000, we’ve been pleasantly surprised with its suspension, power and agility. The one time we got into trouble entailed a tipsy moment in an off-camber section we should’ve avoided in a creek bed. If you’re new to the UTV game, there are a couple things to remember: 1. Always ride with someone else (or at the very least, get a winch) and 2. Make the widest machine in your party go first. If your buddy can make it in his 72-inch wide Can-Am, your 64-inch wide XP will definitely fit.

In The Hills and On The Trails

We’ve yet to encounter an incline the Rzr XP 4 1000 doesn’t like, but if things get sketchy midway up, all-wheel drive is on-demand at the flip of a switch. Thus far, most hills have been negotiable in two-wheel drive and a heavy right foot. As far as woods riding is concerned, the one thing that pays big dividends on this four-seater is to always keep your options open when negotiating a trail. For example, on tighter, technical paths we’re constantly surveilling a place to turn around should things go south further down the line (i.e. a wide, potentially bottomless mud hole you can’t avoid, a hill you don’t like the looks of or a blockage in the path).

Looking for a place to 'wheel? Badlands Off Road Park should be on your list!

When the LS2 engine showed up under the hood of the Chevrolet Corvette for the 2005 model year it represented a further evolution of GM's small block V8 engine design. Dubbed 'Generation IV,' the architecture was still recognizably similar to the Gen III LS motors that had come before it, but it featured a number of modernizations that would help bring the LS into the future. Most of the updates had to do with adding support for features such as active fuel management (cylinder deactivation), variable-valve timing, drive-by-wire throttle, and other electronic engine controls. Almost all Gen IV engines also moved to rectangular port cylinder heads, although the LS2 maintained the cathedral port design.

The LS2 was a 6.0-liter motor, growing in displacement over the 5.7-liter LS1/LS6 that preceded it with a bore size that had been increased to 4.0 inches. This helped it to produce 400 horsepower at 6,000 rpm and 400 lb-ft of torque at 4,400 rpm, effectively matching the higher-revving LS6 and offered a strong improvement over the LS1. New exhaust manifolds also came with the redesigned aluminum block.

In addition to the Corvette (where it would find a home until 2007), the LS2 was offered in the Pontiac GTO (2005-2006) and the Cadillac CTS-V (2006-2007). On the truck side, a slightly different version of the LS2 could be found in the Chevrolet Trailblazer SS and the Saab 9-7x Aero (2006-2009), as well as the Chevrolet SSR (2005-2006). As a footnote, iron block versions of the LS2 featuring active fuel management were dubbed the L76, and could be found in the Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra pickups (2007-2009), where they were tuned to provide 367 horsepower and 375 lb-ft of torque.

When trying to take the LS2 engine to the next level in terms of output, where should you direct your focus? Here are the top four performance roadblocks you'll need to clear when modifying this V8.

Performance Roadblock #1: Intake

You might have noticed throughout this series that the intake is a common power choke point. Surprisingly, for a motor that's as powerful out of the box as the LS2 is, it's perhaps more true than with any of the other LS motors we've discussed to date. Part of that has to do with the production method it used versus the original LS1/LS6 intake, which allowed for very small amounts of air to leak out and disrupt airflow.

Some of the issues associated with the LS2 intake can be solved by porting, but there's also a surprising factory replacement that's worth pursuing if you're dealing with an engine sourced from a car, rather than a truck. The Trailblazer SS intake offers a performance boost compared to the stock Corvette intake, especially improving low-rpm torque, albeit matched with a smaller 87 mm throttle body compared to the 90 mm found on the Corvette/GTO. The aftermarket FAST intake for the LS2—the LSXR-T—is also an option, and it can support a throttle body that is 12 mm larger than stock.

On its own, depending on tune, you can pick up between 10 and 15 horsepower with an intake upgrade, and of course, much more than that when paired with some of the other mods discussed here.

Performance Roadblock #2: Camshaft

Another area where the factory was conservative with the LS2 was the camshaft, which is unsurprising considering that General Motors had to take fuel economy and emissions concerns into account during the design process.

Depending on whether you're looking at an engine sourced from a truck or car, you've got no end of appealing options ranging from wild to mild. An exhaustive list of cam choices for the LS2 is outside the scope of this guide, but since there are virtually no limits when it comes to selecting your hardware, we wanted to remind you to strongly consider your driving situation before placing your order. This is especially true if you're considering the kind of aggressive cam profile that could add close to 100 horses over stock.

Some camshaft replacements are going to require a new torque converter with a higher stall, and could significantly impact drivability in an auto-equipped vehicle. You'll also want to pay attention to where the cam shifts power production: you can't have a high-end screamer without sacrificing low-end torque, and in heavier trucks this could make regular commuting a hassle. Finally, make sure to support your cam mods with upgraded trunnion bearings, retainers, and springs so you don't end up heartbroken by an inexpensive part.

Performance Roadblock #3: Cylinder Heads

By the time the LS2 came around, GM had reached the limits of what was possible with the cathedral port head design. These heads use the same 243 casting that was found on the LS6, which was the pinnacle of cathedral flow. Porting these factory heads can result in flow improvements up to 320 cfm, which is a strong improvement over the factory intake rating of 260 cfm.

It's also tempting to look at porting LS3 heads as a somewhat inexpensive factory option for the LS2, and while these are a good upgrade over the units found on the iron block L76, on the LS2 it makes more sense to spend the money on an aftermarket set due to valve shrouding (as the LS3 had a larger cylinder bore). With the right aftermarket head and cam combination, 450 to 500 wheel horsepower are available from the 6.0-liter LS.

Performance Roadblock #4: Fueling System

In order to see any of the gains listed above, it's vital to have a fueling system that can keep up with the demands of the improved LS2 engine. In stock form, the fuel pump isn't going to be much help past 430 horsepower. Likewise, the 34 pound injectors that come from the factory will start to lose steam the more rowdy things get under the hood.

42 pound to 46 pound injectors are common upgrades, and you'll want to make sure your fueling is adequate by tying everything together with a good dyno tune that will give you real-world insight into how well your mods are supporting each other.

Want to learn more about the LS engine family? Check out this deep dive on GM's most popular V8 engines.

Chris Decker's `67 El Camino doesn't pack rockets or laser weapons but it is a bit of a Transformer. In the 22 years he's owned it, the car has known a few configurations: teenager's first car, drag racer, and versatile custom ride among them. Right now it morphs from drag machine to daily rider to bulletproof road tripper thanks to smart parts choices that allow just that. 

Back in 1998, though, the El Camino was just the first car for 16 year old Chris to putt around with in high school. Lots of his classmates drove Camaros, Mustangs, and old Novas. Blending in with them wasn't his style. It also helped that he already knew what he wanted: "As a kid, a family friend had a 1960 El Camino and I feel in love with El Caminos after seeing his car. When I had a chance to buy one from a friend of a friend, I could not pass up the opportunity. I generally like having things that don’t blend in with the masses and this car was the perfect choice for me." The car sported a mild Chevy a small block 350 with a TH350 automatic transmission and a 10-bolt posi rearend. The drivetrain was decent but the same can't be said for the finish. Years in the sun hadn't been kind and gentle; the old red paint was tired and faded, as were the vinyl top and matching bed cover. It wasn't the hottest car around but it was perfect for a kid cutting his teeth in his first car: cheap and reliable.

A powerhouse it wasn't, though. Kids, especially gearhead kids, love themselves some power. They can't always handle it, but they do love the ponies. Chris quickly outgrew that stock 350 and changed the cam, intake, carb, and headers all to satisfy his growing speed habit. But it wasn't enough. Right now, you should be seeing a pattern forming. Chris still wanted to go faster. At this point he brought a nitrous system to the mix. That was fun for a while and he'd occasionally race his El Camino at the dragstrip; his best time being 13.2 in the quarter mile. I'll give you three guesses as to whether or not that quenched the need for speed.

If your definition of "quenched" is "hell no," you're correct. Chris Decker had taken that small block 350 about as far as he'd wanted. Four years after he'd put the nitrous setup on it, Chris found himself shoehorning a big block 427ci into the frame, making around 600 HP and using a TH400 transmission. He quickly discovered that the old `67 El Camino frame and suspension weren't designed for warp drive. Chris now had too much power far too little chassis strength. It was time to cage the car.

To that end, Chris bought a chromoly cage kit from Chris Alston in Sacramento and started caging the El Camino with a buddy. They also inadvertently re-enacted the plot to Risky Business: "We did not have a place of our own so we did it while my friend's Dad was out of town so we could use his TIG welder," Chris says. "Unfortunately we did not finish before he came back home but he was nice about the situation and I was able to finish the roll cage at his house." It took about three weeks of working after school and work to cage the car but the results were worth it. The El Camino would now go 10.8 in the quarter mile. That was how the car stayed until 2007 when, yup, you guessed it. Chris itched for more horsepower. This time Chris had Steve Schmidt Racing from Indianapolis build a 523ci BBC race engine making 900 hp and able to safely incorporate an additional 300hp shot of nitrous. At this point the ElCo was basically a race car. It didn't see much use except for local cruise-in car shows or days at the drag strip. The car was a handful on the street and downright mean at the track.

At this point Chris' life started changing and with the onset of the affliction we call "adulthood" his priorities changed, too. He started a family. The poor race car sat forlornly alone, hoping to get back out someday. In time Chris got to a point where he got back to it, though. "After we had our first child and I finished remodeling the house it was time to get back to enjoying my car. I quickly realized that I had a car that I could not share with my son. At that point I sold the BBC and all the components that bolted on to it and the entire drivetrain and even some interior parts, the wheels, and the hood." He started over with the car and the goal of taking his son for a ride in it. "I still loved drag racing but also wanted to be able to take the car up a windy mountain road," he elaborated. "I used this to plan the current build. I have a set of skinny wheels and tires for the drag strip that match the wheels that are on the car as well as wider fronts for many other uses. I decided that I had to have adjustable shocks to help me give the car a different attitude for each type of driving condition."

Out went the race engine, in went a Chevy LS3 376ci. Not exactly in stock form, though; a Texas Speed Stage 3 camshaft and double valve springs, Edelbrock Victor Jr intake manifold, Fitech EFI (custom, soon available for the general public), K&N Extreme air cleaner, Sanderson headers, and MagnaFlow mufflers all play into Chris Decker's need for speed. The engine work was also an inside job in that Chris took care of it himself in his own garage, without the need to wait til his buddy's dad went out of town again. It makes 538 horsepower at the rear wheel at 6850 rpm and 455 lbs-ft torque at 3547 rpm. On the drivetrain side, you'll find a Tremec T56 Magnum XL transmission, Luk clutch, Hurst shifter, Detroit Truetrac Quick Change differential, and Mark Williams 3-inch aluminum driveshaft.

Making a versatile custom called for adjustability in the suspension department if Chris wanted to go from drag racing to all-day cruising and anywhere in between. The El Camino already had the 14-point chromoly cage. What Chris brought into the project at this point were four-link Hotchkis boxed trailing arms and adjustable upper trailing arms, Hotchkis 1 5/16-inch diameter anti-roll bar, Eibach Global West coil-over conversion springs, and QA1 coil-over double adjustable shocks. He custom tailors handling up front with Global West arms and knuckles with Eibach springs, Global West anti-roll bar, and QA1 coil-overs double adjustable shocks too.

All of that sets the stage for a fun, versatile modern custom in classic El Camino clothing. Chris Decker didn't skimp in the wheel department, either. His beloved elky eats miles on Weld Racing wheels (18x8.5-inch front, 18x10-inch rear) shod in Nitto NT555/NT555R tread (245/40R18 front, 305/45R18 rear). "I'm impressed with the way the Nitto 555R drag radial tires behave. This car was inspired by Big Red, but I wanted it to be versatile. The soft compound hooks up really well. It also has very consistent behavior on the road. I like the overall feel of the tires and they have good traction and grip." Chris installed Wilwood Forged Dynalite Pro Series 4-piston brakes out back and Wilwood Forged Dynapro 6-piston brakes up front to rein in the ponies as needed.

If the El Camino doesn't look cherry stock on the outside that's because, well, it isn't. Not only were the rear wheel wells stretched an inch from their drag racing days, Chris also shaved the antenna, gas door, and side moldings to smooth out the look. His car also runs a Glasstek fiberglass hood and he zapped down the PPG DP90 paint himself.

Seeing as how he planned to do more than run track days, Chris gave the interior new love to reflect that. Not only did he install Autometer gauges, he gave the car a real upgrade soundwise thanks to the Retro Sound head unit with Pioneer 6.5-inch speakers up front and their 6x9-inch JL Audio rear counterparts. You'll also find Protouring seats with Simpson Racing seatbelts in it as well.

All of which was done in Chris' very own garage. This is the third rebuild of his El Camino and it took a year and a half to make it all happen. For as many great memories he has of this car, some of the greatest are because of his family. His mother for the support she provided when he was a kid starting out, his wife's understanding during the rebuild, and, most memorably, taking his son for a ride once the car was finished. And he can still take it to the track when he feels like being a kid himself.

Take a look at the El Camino's custom cousin, a '67 Chevelle on steroids.

With all of the excitement over Ford’s new Bronco over the last week, it’s easy to forget that the Bronco isn’t the only exciting new machine that will be joining Ford’s lineup in the coming months.

Work has also been humming along on the all-electric 2021 Mustang Mach-E ahead of its launch later this year. And to show just what kind of performance potential the all-electric crossover has, take a look at this wild vehicle known as the Mach-E 1400.

Vaughn Gittin Jr. has been making Mustangs do awesome things for his whole career, so it’s not surprising that Ford Performance collaborated Vaughn and the RTR Vehicles team to re-imagine the Mach-E as the ultimate performance automobile.

Starting with a basic Mach-E GT body in white, over 10,000 hours were invested by both teams transforming the car into one of the wildest performance machines ever to wear the blue oval badge.

 As its name suggests, the car puts out 1,400 peak horsepower supplied by no less than seven electric motors—three up front and four in the rear, all connected by a single driveshaft. The seven motors not allow for the massive power number, but also for incredible adjustment of power delivery depending on the type of driving.

Along with all-four wheels of electric power and instantaneous torque, the Mach-E 1400 is loaded with know how from both traditional motorsport and drifting. Its widened, aero-laden body makes 2,300 pounds of downforce at 160 miles per hour.

The Brembo brake system was sourced from a Mustang GT4 race car, and for maximum sideways action the car was also fitted with a hydraulic handbrake system that’s used in many rally and drift cars. As you can see, the Nitto NT555 G2 ultra-high performance tires on each corner are happy to play along with the fun.

The plan is to demonstrate the car’s capabilities in person at a NASCAR event in the near future, but in the meantime Vaughn got together with some of the most well known Ford Performance personalities to make a film showing off the Mach-E 1400’s talents.

Among those joining in on the fun are NASCAR driver Joey Logano in his Mustang stock car, Vaughn’s RTR teammate Chelsea Denofa in his Nitto-equipped Mustang drift car and a certain Ken Block in his AWD Hoonicorn Mustang.

The video shows Vaughn and the Mach-E enjoying many different forms of performance driving—all accompanied by the unique noises of high performance electric motors.

It was a bold decision when Ford decided to put the legendary Mustang name on its all-electric crossover, but as we can see from the Mach-E 1400 it looks like this new generation of the Mustang story is going to be just as exciting as the previous ones.

Click here to learn more about the Mustang Mach E production model.

Despite the menace of the new Ford Bronco, Jeep is fighting to keep the Wrangler model in enthusiast conversations. Around the same time as the Bronco reveal, Jeep teased their new concept, the Wrangler Rubicon 392. And here, we have the pre-production prototype caught on the street with no camouflage- which certainly seems like no accident by the FCA. One might think they are encouraging “spy photos” be published of the vehicle.

In the FCA’s defense, the Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 392 is very exciting. It’s the four-door version of the popular Wrangler platform sporting a 392ci (hence the name) HEMI V8 that produces 450hp and 450lb.-ft. of torque and rumors suggest an incredible sub-five second 0-60 mph time on the street.

Other buzz about the 4-wheeler say the production model will have an 8-speed automatic transmission that is true to the concepts. It should be a beast on the trails.

At first glance, this may appear to be a standard Rubicon, but there are a few “tells.”

The most obvious difference is the ram-air hood scoop (that matches with the reveal from a few days ago), but there are also beadlock wheels and an unusual-for-a-Jeep-Wrangler pair of dual-tip exhaust pipes that exit on either side of the tow hitch in the rear. So this could be very close to exactly what the production version will look like.

Click here to see what other ways Jeep is fighting off Ford and the new Bronco for off-road vehicle supremacy.

If you own a truck or an SUV then you're aware of the challenges associated with finding a good all-around tire that is aimed primarily at street use rather than off-road shenanigans. While sports car fans are blessed with an abundance of tire choices, truck owners more often face limited sizing, load ratings, and reduced selection when trying to find a good performance solution for their larger rides.

Whether your definition of 'performance' includes quiet, smooth operation matched with all-weather grip, or maximum traction so you can put down power without any hesitation, there's a tire out there aimed at your specific driving needs. Let's take a look at four different driving profiles for truck and SUV owners, and see how the leading tires aimed at these types of use compare.

Year-Round Rider: NT420S

All-weather confidence isn't limited to tires with aggressive tread patterns and bulging sidewalls. There are plenty of truck owners who are looking for a versatile tire that balances the need for wet weather traction with better-than-average handling in dry conditions. Throw in the ability to maintain grip under hard acceleration, and you've got the trifecta of what an all-season tire buyer wants for their daily driver.

Enter the Nitto 420S, a tire that delivers all of the above while also providing the kind of long life that that's expected from a tire capable of handling a regular commute. Intended to remain stable even when under load, it doesn't just work well under normal driving conditions but it's also a solid choice for anyone who's regularly hauling cargo or towing a trailer. A further bonus? The 420S significantly less expensive to buy than similarly-sized all-terrain tires, which offer less civilized manners in regular driving.

Living Large, Luxury-Style: NT420V

If you own a luxury SUV or high-end truck, chances are you want to ride on a tire that matches the uprated design specifications of your vehicle. What if you need everything that a tire like the 420S provides, but need an extra edge when it comes to road-holding, comfort and style?

The Nitto NT420V evolves the 420S design in the direction that premium truck owners can appreciate. With a non-directional asymmetrical tread design that is as eye catching as it is effective at sticking to wet pavement, this tire is intended to meet the increased demands of high-horsepower performance SUVs and smooth-riding luxury trucks. Big treadblocks offer good traction, but the 420V's low-noise design also means there's little penalty to pay for its sure-footed character. It's an all-season tire that dials down on compromise while accentuating the best qualities of any vehicle it's fitted to.

Weekend Warrior, Weekday Commuter: NT555 G2

Do you break up the monotony of your drive to and from work each day with weekend driving that truly pushes your truck to the limits? Do you like to catch sports cars sleeping at the stoplight, or test your suspension and your own skills on an empty stretch of two lane on a regular basis? If so, then a traditional all-season tire probably isn't going to cut it, and finding an ultra high-performance summer tire that's available in a range of truck-appropriate sizes can be a real challenge.

For those seeking a 200-treadware option, Nitto offers the NT555 G2, a tire that is designed to thrive in an extreme handling environment without trading wet weather capability to get there. With reinforced shoulders that make for crisp transitions, and large treadblocks intended to capture high horsepower and translate it into pure straight-line grip, the NT555 G2 is the first pick for weekend warriors. (Click here to see the NT555 G2 on the new Ford Mustang Mach E RTR concept vehicle)

Full-Time Corner Carver: NT05

In the era of the super SUV it’s only natural that a tire should evolve to match the performance and capability wrapped up in these turbocharged, eight-cylinder all-wheel drive machines. Max performance rubber is no longer the exclusive domain of muscle cars and exotics, which means enthusiasts who need the absolute best in cornering, braking, and dry pavement capability aren't on the outside looking in simply because they drive a truck.

The Nitto NT05 is a track-tested tire that can be driven just as confidently on the street as it can into the staging lane of your local drag strip or the pit lane of any road course or oval. Featuring exceptional grip thanks to its unique rubber compound and strong design, the NT05 is a tire whose traction won't fade in the first corner even under the pressures and heat generated by a full-size truck at full gallop.

Staying safe all summer long is that much easier when you know how to inspect your tires during the hottest season of the year.

Driver Battles: Track Edition is back for another episode at Chuckwalla Valley Raceway. This episode pits Geoff Tumang and his 2002 BMW M3 against Kyle Deneau and his 2003 Porsche 911. In this battle of classic German performance vehicles, the Porsche has the edge in both power and weight. However, Geoff has far more experience behind the wheel, which can often make up the difference. This has all the makings of a classic battle.

Geoff Tumang's '02 BMW M3

While Geoff’s E46 M3 may have less power than the Porsche, that doesn’t mean it’s a slouch. It puts out 333hp, which seems pretty appropriate for an M3, and is more than enough to run fast laps at Chuckwalla.

The biggest and most obvious modification is the big RS Future wing out back. His wing is bigger than the Porsche’s, so aero may be where he has the opportunity to take this battle.

Along with a host of other modifications, like TE37 wheels and a 6-speed SMG, Geoff is running Nitto NT01 tires so that he can run fast laps throughout the day and improve on his times.

Kyle Deneau's '03 Porsche 996

Kyle’s Porsche 996 may be in a lot of ways similar to how it was stock, but there have been some small but important upgrades made to it.

First off, the engine has been bored to 4.0 liters, giving it 380hp. He also gutted the interior and added a cage, which has taken the weight down to 2500 lbs.

This power and speed combination could prove decisive. He also added a wing in the back, so while he won’t have as much aero as Geoff, he’ll still have quite a bit. To keep the battle fair, Kyle is also running NT01s, so expect fast laps from him as well.

Where to Watch the Battle

Both contestants are returning competitors, with Geoff having lost his first battle and Kyle taking the victory when he came out. Will Geoff get redemption on this scorching hot day at Chuckwalla, or will Kyle continue his winning streak? Click here to watch the video.

At the moment the automotive world is still buzzing over last week’s debut of the 2021 Ford Bronco - a legit off road-oriented 4x4 that is aiming right for Jeep’s tremendously popular Wrangler.

Yet for all of the excitement over the Bronco, it could be argued that third member of the 2021 Bronco family is just as, if not more, important than the others.

We're talking about the Bronco Sport, which despite having a similar name and even a similar look to the regular Bronco is an entirely different vehicle under the skin.

Under the Bronco Sport's Exterior

Rather than a body-on-frame SUV with truck underpinnings, the Bronco sport is a unibody crossover SUV that shares a platform with the Ford Escape. It uses a transverse-mounted engine with a front-drive bias although all versions of the Bronco Sport will come standard with AWD.

For serious off-road purists, a traditional 4x4 like the Wrangler or “big” Bronco is always going to be the top choice, but recent years have seen a number of car-based crossovers that can do far more than just get up the occasional wet driveway or muddy road.

Ford is clearly positioning the Bronco Sport to be a much more capable and more adventurous vehicle than the typical family crossover, so we thought we’d see how it stacks up against some of its “soft roader” competition.

2021 Bronco Sport vs Subaru

Much of Subaru’s recent success can be attributed to the fact the brand specializes in crossover vehicles, but Subaru’s symmetrical all wheel drive system also gives them all-terrain capability that often goes beyond the competition.

The Subaru Crosstrek, Forester and Outback could all be seen as potential competitors to the Bronco Sport. They all ride on the same platform, have standard AWD and deliver similar off-road capability and ground clearance.

The Crosstrek is going to be the smallest and most affordable of the three, and its earned a reputation for being a fun and practical soft-roader. Up until recently, the biggest complaint about the Crosstrek was its anemic 2.0 boxer engine engine.

For 2021 though, Subaru has finally given the Crosstrek more power in the form of a larger 2.5 liter naturally aspirated boxer engine on certain trims. The new engine makes 182hp and 176 pound feet of torque—putting it very close to the Bronco Sport’s standard 1.5 liter EcoBoost three-cylinder which makes 181 horsepower and 190 pound feet of torque.

That same 2.5 liter flat four continues to be the only engine offering on the larger Subaru Forester which best compares to the Bronco Sport in terms of its overall size and profile. The Forester doesn’t offer nearly as many “toys” as the higher trim Bronco Sports do, but it has a reputation for being one of the most capable crossover SUVs on the market.

The Subaru Outback meanwhile has more of a lifted station wagon look, with the same 2.5 boxer engine being its standard offering. What sets the Outback apart is the fact that it can be had with a 2.4 liter turbocharged boxer engine that makes 260hp and 277 pound feet of torque.

The Bronco Sport will also have a higher output engine option: a 2.0 liter EcoBoost four-cylinder that will make 245hp and 275 pound feet of torque. Also important to note is that while all of the Subarus come with CVT automatics, the Bronco Sport will use a more traditional eight-speed automatic.

2021 Bronco Sport vs Toyota RAV4 TRD Off-Road

Another crossover that Bronco Sport buyers may be cross-shopping is Toyota’s RAV4 TRD Off-Road model. Although not drastically different from the normal RAV4 it’s based on, the TRD version does feature a number of upgrades for the trail, including a unique suspension tune, wheel and tire package and torque vectoring AWD with multiple terrain modes.

If there’s a ding against the RAV4 TRD Off-Road, it would be the fact that it starts at a rather rich $36,400 before options and that it comes with just one engine—the same 2.5 liter four-cylinder found in the standard RAV4. As of now, the more powerful hybrid and plug-in hybrid powertrains aren’t available in the Off-Road model.

2021 Bronco Sport vs Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk

Finally we get to what might be the Bronco Sport’s most serious competitor—the Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. Up until now the Cherokee Trailhawk has stood out as the most off-road capable crossover thanks mainly to its Active Drive 4x4 system with a locking rear differential.

The Badlands and First Edition trims of the Bronco Sport will also feature an upgraded 4x4 system with a twin clutch rear drive unit, off-road tuned suspension, bash plates and a terrain management system with seven different modes.

These high end models of the Bronco Sport will come with the more powerful 2.0 EcoBoost engine while the Cherokee Trailhawk offers two different engine options: a standard 3.2 liter naturally aspirated V6 that makes 271hp and an optional 2.0 turbo four-cylinder that makes the same power but with improved torque.

A Cherokee Trailhawk has a starting price around $34,000, and not surprisingly, the off-road trims of the Bronco Sport are going to start in the same neighborhood.

We know that the Cherokee Trailhawk has already proven itself to be perhaps the most off-road capable car-based crossover ever, and it looks like Ford is very much gunning for that title with the Bronco Sport.

Whether its doing battle against the Jeep, the RAV4 or Subaru’s popular offerings, the Bronco Sport is just one more example of a family crossover that’s capable of more than just hauling the kids around suburban streets. We are very much looking forward to see how the aftermarket reacts to the coming of the “Baby Bronco” to further improve its off-road performance.

In the meantime if you’d like to see how the “real” Bronco stacks up against its 4x4 competition you can check out our story here.

Guys like Jack Martin got their start in the truck scene very early on. The vehicles he first played with were not full scale, as they were Hot Wheels, and the road they rolled on was actually the floor of his parent’s house in Colorado. When he was finally old enough to get his license, he and his dad found a squarebody GMC 4X4 and it that kicked everything off for him. Of course, it didn’t stay stock long and he customized the truck to better suit his personality.

Moving On

After a few years and quite a few rides later, Jack relocated to Georgia and found out there was less need for a 4X4 to drive in snow. At the time, Jack was more attracted to sport trucks and the next trucks he would build would be a bit closer to the ground. That progressed into obtaining a few trucks that were slammed on the ground with airbags. Jack’s taste for trucks changed by living in a new part of the country, but such is the way of life.

From Long to Short

After getting married, he and his wife decided they wanted a more laidback lifestyle and moved to Tulsa, OK. There, he made new friends in the truck scene and his passion grew even bigger. While hanging with the bros, he came up with the idea to have a lifted crew cab squarebody pickup with a short bed on the back. This was a combination that was never offered originally, and it seemed like the perfect new project for him. Luckily, he found this ’89 GMC, which was a good starting point.

Built Tough

To make the vision a reality, the frame was shortened to accept a short bed. Then all the stock suspension was stripped off to make room to beef it up. Underneath went a Dana 60 front axle and a rear GM 14-bolt with 4.10 gears. Then, an Off-Road Design front parallel four-link and a rear triangulated four-link was attached to hold it all in place. The suspension was then topped off with a set of King 2 ½-inch coil-overs and a rear disc brake conversion with PSC Motorsports hydroboost braking assistance.

Modern Performance

Powering this big beast is a 6.0L LS engine with 4L60e transmission salvaged from an ’05 Chevy pickup. The engine is held in place using Dirty Dingo mounts and is cooled with an aluminum radiator with electrics fans. Adding some performance and sound, a custom 3-inch exhaust was made that has a set of Flowmaster Super 44 mufflers. Keeping a lid on the engine bay is the stock hood with Wam Rods hood strut kit.

Style for Miles

For the rest of the exterior, the body panels were painted in GM Bright Blue (paint code 42). For added contrast, things like the grille and bumpers were painted in a dark silver. A black billet grill sits up front and the sides feature GSI Machine and Fab door handles along with N-Fab steps. The body has also been accented with custom billet badges made by Jason Hancock of Billet Accessories Direct (B.A.D.). Literally topping off the exterior is a Blackmax soft tonneau that covers the short bed.

Rolling Art

Part of this squarebody's more aggressive look is due to the wheel and tire combo it rolls on. The 22x10 Moto Metal wheels have custom machined centers by B.A.D. and are painted to match the trim of the truck. These mean looking wheels are complimented with a set of huge 40x15.5R22LT Nitto Trail Grappler M/T tires, which look stout and add some major height to this beast. These tires are the best of both worlds with great off-road performance while being comfortably quiet (for a M/T tire) when driven on paved roads.

Seating and More

Speaking of comfort, the interior was upgraded to make long drives easier, too. The most obvious change is the addition of two 2nd row Honda Odyssey seats that are upholstered in gray leather by King Cover in Tulsa. To match the rest of the interior, many pieces were dyed gray or covered in suede. Adding to rider comfort is a Retrosound Newport head unit and stereo for vintage appearance and modern function. On the driver's side, a Dakota Digital gauge cluster and Billet Specialties steering wheel were installed.

A True Custom

With everything said and done, this truck looks like no other. The short bed conversion might have involved some major work but really makes this truck stand out from the crowd. The addition of a modern power train and interior really makes this classic pickup drive like a modern vehicle. With all these details coming together in unison, you can tell that Jack has been around and knows what he is doing when it comes to building custom trucks.

Love lifted trucks? Check out this hand-engraved, skyjacked F250.

If people were reincarnated as objects, telemarketers would come back as off-road tires. The life of an all-terrain or mud tire isn't easy. You bear a ton of weight over the harshest driving conditions imaginable until you die. That's it; no birthday parties, no Christmas presents. Just you, a heap of hard-charging metal, and some yahoo in the cockpit who insists on running you roughshod. Luckily, we don't come back in tire form. Instead, Companies like Nitto make better and better all-terrain and mud tires using the latest R&D. Although tires like the Ridge Grappler and Mud Grappler can handle a lot of punishment, the better care you give them, the more life you get out of them. Let's delve into some of the things you can do to get the most out of those tires.

Immortal Kombat

Tires eventually lose tread and get replaced. It's inevitable. What isn't set in stone is how long they last. Part of that comes from how well made they are, but you can maximize their lifespan with the right kind of care.

Selecting the right off-road tire is the first step. Sizes and tread patterns suitable to your driving are vital but so is the load range. That's usually a letter printed on the tire's sidewall. You don't want a tire designed for a lighter vehicle installed on a heavy truck that tows a trailer all the time. Airing down is also important for off-road running because doing so increases the traction patch it makes on the ground. Decreased tire pressure reduces slip in gravel and other terrain because of the increased traction, thereby reducing the rate of wear on the tread. If you have a full-size spare tire, rotating it into the mix helps too. Find out more on maximizing tire life here.

Clean Getaway

All-terrain and mud tires pack a higher profile than their low-profile street cousins. That means more rubber to clean. Not only that, they have a rougher life and the wrong cleaner can shorten their life in much the same way gargling Lysol would shorten yours. Yes, you'd kill all the germs but the cost is pretty steep.

The big question here is: are dedicated wheel and tire cleaners worth buying or do household cleaners work just as well? Yes and no. Bleach, dishwashing soap, and bathroom cleaner will remove mud and restore the black finish on your tires with varying degrees of success. The same can't necessarily be said of the wax-and-wash car cleaners used on street cars. There are plenty of wheel-and-tire cleaners on the market, though. What you have to watch out for are how cleaners affect your wheel finishes. You can get more insight from our tire cleaner test as well.

Check Yourself Before You Wreck Yourself

Regular tire inspection isn't a bad plan, either. Off-roading is a seasonal pastime for many of us and the perfect times to check your tires for damage is at the end or beginning of the season.

Know that cleaning we were just talking about? Not only does it look good, it also helps determine how well your tires are holding up under all of that mud and grime. So once you've finally gotten around to cleaning your all-terrain or mud tires at season's end, you're more likely to find things like sidewall cuts that can kill a tire over time. Tread depth is another thing to look at; while road tires are considered done once depth reaches 2/32-inch, all-terrain and mud tires need much more than that to be effective in mud or over rocks. You may also notice uneven wear on your tires. That means it's either time to rotate them, you have a suspension issue, or both. Find out more things to consider here.

Under Pressure

Airing down your tires bears more discussion in detail. There's a little more to it than just whooshing some air out, recapping the valve stem, and hitting the trail.

I mean, you can just use a pen or a paper clip to vent air from the valve stems but that's about as fast and fun as watching paint dry. In Florida. In the humid summer. A valve core remover and a low-pressure tire gauge work much better. Plus, the gauge lets you know where you stand PSI-wise. That's important because setting PSI to the right numbers for your vehicle weight, tire diameter, and wheel size makes a difference. Plus, you don't want to go below 10 PSI when running non-beadlock wheels. Beadlock wheels lock the tire to the wheel which is what allows you to drop PSI into single digits. While airing down is free and easy, airing back up is a little more involved. You can't just wrap your mouth around all four valve stems and huff and puff them back up to full pressure. Having a good compressor is vital. We have more details on airing down for you here.     

Damage Control

Mr Miyagi summed this up in The Karate Kid by telling Daniel that the best way to avoid a punch is not be where it lands. Being prepared beforehand and anticipating issues ahead of time avoids damage before it happens, thus extending the life of your tires and the rest of your vehicle, too.

In the case of tires, having the right tools on hand before you head out is a great plan. Make sure you have a jack, tire iron, and the above-mentioned tools for setting pressure beforehand. It's also good to have a Plan B (or even C and D) in anticipation of changing weather conditions, closed routes, and other common variables so you don't have to cut the trip short. Recognizing when a trail is too difficult for your rig also avoids a lot of problems. Scoping the route helps with that. Get more tips on avoiding damage off-road. 

Check out our off-road survival checklist for a comprehensive of list of must-haves.

The mid-size truck market is now fully back in business, with the recently-arrived Ford Ranger joining the Toyota Tacoma, the Chevrolet Colorado, the GMC Canyon, the Jeep Gladiator, the Honda Ridgeline, and the Nissan Frontier in a bid to soak up demand from buyers seeking a more modestly-proportioned truck. That's a long list of competitors that nearly doubles the options available only five or so years ago, when full-size pickups ruled the roost.

Still, the question remains: is a mid-size hauler 'enough truck' to satisfy the needs of the average pickup fan, or would they be better off sticking with a larger model? I spent a week with the 2020 Ford Ranger to see just how practical a pickup it really is, how well it compares against the recently-announced next-generation 2021 Ford F-150, and how much the smaller truck's not-inconsiderable price factors in to the decision.

Toe-To-Toe

Yes, the Ford Ranger is definitely smaller as compared to the F-150 and other similar full-size trucks—but their proportions are much closer than you'd think.

Regardless of which version you order (four-door SuperCrew or rear-hinged SuperCab), the Ranger checks in at 210.8 inches long, as the larger cab gets a shorter five-foot, one-inch box versus the standard six-footer. This is roughly the same length as the shortest single-cab F-150 (which features a six-and-a-half foot box), and within two feet of a four-door. Surprisingly, the trucks are also within two inches of each other in terms of width, with the Ranger five inches narrower, on average, than the 'bigger' Ford.

The Ranger feels a lot less ponderous around town than a four-door F-150 due to its reduced weight, shorter overhangs, and somewhat narrower track, but the biggest difference between the two trucks has to do with volume. That is to say, the interior of the Ranger is nowhere near as capacious as that of the full-size Ford, especially when comparing four-door options.

Ranger's maximum cargo capacity also checks in at 25 cubic feet less than an F-150 with an eight-foot box, and the SuperCrew Ranger's smaller bed still offers 10 cubes less than the tiniest five-and-a-half foot F-150 option. Length, too, is compromised, as every F-150 delivers extra inches of lay-down compared to the Ranger, which has no equivalent to the utility of the full-size truck's eight-footer.

Style Points

Not only is the new Ford F-150's interior larger, but it's also far more modern than what is found inside the Ranger.

Naturally, being all-new for 2021 gives the bigger truck an advantage over the two-year old mid-sizer, but in truth the differences go deeper than that.

Although the Ranger appeared in American dealerships for the 2019 model year, it was imported from the global market, where it had been tooling around for more than a few years. As a result, the truck's cabin feels dated, reflecting the styling trends of five years ago rather than the current state of the pickup segment. This is underscored when comparing the Ranger's abbreviated suite of features to the 2021 F-150's long list of work-oriented conveniences (folding center console), advanced infotainment (available 12-inch touchscreen with Sync 4), and of course luxuries (high end leather upholstery).

EcoBoost All Around

Another area where the Ford Ranger's configurability lags its latest full-size sibling is found under the hood. Whereas the F-150 provides V6, V8, turbocharged V6, turbodiesel, and even hybrid options for 2021, the Ranger is restricted to a single turbocharged four-cylinder motor.

This 2.3-liter EcoBoost is certainly stout, what with 270 horsepower and 310 lb-ft of torque on tap, and it's more than capable of towing (which is relatively drama-free, even with larger loads of up to 7,500 lbs), or handling rough terrain (when equipped with four-wheel drive and the FX4 package, like my tester was). It's just that it's the only choice - there's no upgrade in the cards, and certainly no turbodiesel like you'd find with the global Ranger.

While power is good, and the tow rating is a respectable chunk of the larger F-150's, in actual operation the 2.3-liter is let down by its 10-speed automatic transmission. The gearbox seems to get hung up in the mid-range a little too often, which can lead to hesitation when cruising city streets at lower speed. Would that there was a manual, or even a V6 option, to try and mitigate the EcoBoost's occasional stumble.

Value Is An Issue

No one expects the Ford Ranger to match the F-150's long list of class-leading attributes, especially given its smaller platform. The main question when comparing these two vehicles instead becomes which one best fits into your lifestyle.

It's tempting to recommend the Ranger to anyone who's looking for a comfortable daily driver that can occasional pinch-hit on truck duties, especially if you live in an urban area where parking concerns make F-150 ownership more of a hassle. It might also be easier to live with the truck's somewhat balky drivetrain and aged interior if the price differential between the two vehicles made the Ranger feel more like a bargain.

Unfortunately, that's not the case. A base Ranger is just $4k less than the least-expensive F-150 at around $24,000, and if you're looking at a more comfortable spec you can easily bump up against the $40k mark. That's real money for a small truck, and within spitting distance of an XLT-trim full-size model, which makes it a lot harder to like. Unlike rivals from Chevrolet, GMC, and Toyota, the Ranger's too-rich window sticker isn't likely to convince many potential buyers to stray from the F-150's charms unless its more reasonable form factor is their number one concern.

Curious to learn more about the next-generation F-150? We've got you covered.

What do you get when you feature a Duramax-powered ’70 Chevelle, a common-rail second-gen Cummins and a 7-second ’69 C10 packing a 2,200hp Duramax? How about the coolest list of diesel swaps we’ve ever compiled. Ride along with us as we explore Rick Fletes’ 9-second, camper-toting, 30-mpg-obtaining muscle car, take a look at Kenneth Donkersgoed’s common-rail swapped, 750hp ’02 Dodge and shed some light on Brett Deutsch’s track-proven, masterfully-built, wheels-up Pro Mod C10…

Rick Fletes’ ’70 Chevelle

Rick Fletes and his 1970 Chevelle are the best kind of anomaly. His Duramax-propelled classic represents everything a diesel engine is capable of doing these days. It’s a diesel swap, it’s fast, it races competitively, it gets 30-mpg and it tows! After hauling his single axle camper to the races, Rick unhooks, bolts on the rear slicks and hops in the staging lanes. Then when the weekend’s racing is in the books, the street tires go back on and the camper gets lugged back home. Perhaps the coolest part about Rick and his Chevelle is that he’s not afraid to travel. We’ve seen him competing in races in the middle of Indiana—and he’s from Sacramento, CA!

Mostly-Stock Duramax

At the heart of Rick’s Duramax Chevelle sits an LB7 Duramax from an ’04 model year GMC Sierra HD. Though Rick rebuilt the 6.6L V-8 diesel in 2017, it was assembled using the stock crankshaft, factory connecting rods and de-lipped factory cast-aluminum LB7 pistons. The cylinder heads are completely untouched, not even receiving a valve job during the rebuild. Horsepower comes by way of S&S Diesel Motorsport fueling, a BorgWarner S467.7 turbo, a bit of nitrous and it’s all backed up by a Turbo 400 that’s tethered to a Gear Vendors Overdrive.

High 9’s with Regularity

It’s all in the launch, right? Rick’s Chevelle always delivers for the camera thanks to its boosted, wheels-up starts. At diesel events, you can find Rick competing in 6.70 Index, an eighth-mile category that translates into mid 10’s in the quarter, and he has a mild-ish tune-up that allows him to run that number virtually every pass. As for quarter-mile ventures, his quickest time slip to date shows a smoldering 9.78 at 135 mph. Lately, he and his Chevelle have been mixing it up in the NHRA’s ultra-competitive Super Gas class (9.90 Index) at West Coast Hot Rod Association events.

Kenneth Donkersgoed’s Common-Rail Second-Gen Cummins

Meet Kenneth Donkersgoed’s immaculate ’02 Dodge Ram 2500. Even though it represents a Cummins swap for a vehicle that already came with a Cummins in it from the factory, it’s extremely rare. Instead of living with the fueling-limited VP44 pumped 24-valve 5.9L the truck came with or ditching the VP44 in favor of a P-pump (which many horsepower-hungry enthusiasts often do), Kenneth ushered his second-gen into the modern era. The new power plant is a fully electronically controlled, 6.7L-based Cummins with a common-rail injection system.

6.8L Cummins

To get optimum drivability, quietness and refined horsepower all in the same package, a common-rail 6.7L-based Cummins was decided on rather than sticking with the previous electronic over mechanical 5.9L 24-valve. The balanced and blueprinted, 6.8L displacement Cummins was pieced together by Freedom Racing Engines and features Carrillo rods, stock compression Mahle cast-aluminum pistons and a fire-ringed Performance Series head. Six, 100-percent over 5.9L common-rail derived injectors from S&S Diesel Motorsport, along with a Fleece PowerFlo 750 CP3, support the truck’s 750rwhp. A 5.9L ECM is also employed.

Second-Gen Style Turbo Arrangement

Working in conjunction with a T4 foot Steed Speed exhaust manifold, a Fleece second-gen turbo swap kit allows an S463 turbo to handle boost production. Thanks to the common-rail’s added displacement, head flow and precise fueling over the 5.9L it replaced, Kenneth’s second-gen has no problem spooling the S400 series charger. The S463 sports an 83mm turbine wheel inside of a .90 A/R exhaust housing, is supported by a 5-inch Fleece ManTake and GDP elbow on the intake side, and a 4-inch stainless steel downpipe that transitions into a 5-inch conventional exit exhaust system evacuates exhaust gases.

Brett Deutsch’s ’69 Chevy C10

This truck has been turning heads for years. When it isn’t pulling wheelies, Brett Deutsch and his C10 are busy clicking off high 4’s in the eighth-mile. Handed down by his grandpa at the age of 15, Brett immediately got busy making the classic Chevy his own. The 3-53 Detroit Diesel screamer he inherited was replaced with an L98 TPI engine out of an ’89 Corvette and then a 383 stroker before he turned to the Duramax. Though Brett gave the Allison automatic a chance in the beginning, he soon ditched it in favor of a 4R100 from Brian’s Truck Shop. The same can be said for the GM AAM 1150 rear axle he originally campaigned, which was eventually replaced with a lighter weight (and stronger) Mark Williams 11-inch.

More Than Bling

Work of art much? When you pull the C10’s front clip, an engine that’s as beautiful as the truck itself is revealed. Assembled by Matt Hatfield of Danville Performance, the mirror polish Duramax features an Ultra billet Callies crank swinging a set of billet rods and anchored in place via a girdle. Ross Racing pistons, Wagler billet heads, twin stroker CP3’s and sizeable injectors from Exergy Performance, a massive single turbo and ECM tuning from Danville all make Brett’s Duramax the beast that it is. How beastly is it? We calculate somewhere around 2,200 hp making it to the wheels!

High 4’s in the Eighth-Mile

In the quarter-mile, and several years ago, Brett sent his C10 through the traps in 8.39 seconds at 168 mph. More recently, and on his current engine build and single turbo setup, he’s been working on his eighth-mile game. Even when forced to pedal his wild ride, Brett still usually manages to put together a low 5. When the truck hooks and the front wheels aren’t sent air born, Brett sees high 4’s at speeds approaching 150 mph. The last time we saw him out and about, the truck sailed to a best of 4.91 at 146 mph.

As proof that diesel repowers are everywhere these days, check out this swap special on a truck, a tractor and a rat-rod school bus!

Adding a hydraulic hand brake is a versatile modification that isn’t too invasive. It can make any vehicle more fun to maneuver while sparing the life of your cable-operated e-brake. There’s an abundance of lever style choices, including cylinder and reservoir sizes, so it shouldn’t take long to find a setup for your application, stature and fashion sense. As for me, I am 5’9” with gangly legs and monkey-like arms, so the hand brake didn’t comfortably fit on the driver’s side of the console. I also wanted it to be the center of attention—a conversation starter if you will, so I chose a taller OBP hydraulic hand brake and designed the handle to resemble a katana sword. Granted, the added style points might affect my reaction time between activating the hand brake and shifting gears, but I’m not competing or tracking milliseconds, just my quantity and quality of smiles per mile. Around a closed course, obviously… (Ahem.)

What does it take to install a Hydraulic Handbrake?

Installation was trouble-free, which is rare for me and my jalopy cars. It helps to have all the pieces to the puzzle before putting it together, including the hydraulic hand brake (attached to its own master cylinder), an external fluid reservoir, a left and a right rear caliper, brackets to hold said calipers, three braided steel brake lines (one routed from the master cylinder to the reservoir, the second from the master to the driver’s side rear brake caliper, and the third connects the driver’s side caliper to the passenger side), and the fittings to connect the lines. Oh, and brake fluid.

The handbrake’s braided lines run from the lever’s master cylinder to a fluid reservoir mounted under the hood on the firewall, and also through the floorboard behind the seat to the second caliper on each rear wheel. This basic setup is the same for AWD and FWD chassis cars.

RWD cars don’t have all the fun 

Controlling self-induced oversteer and loss of traction gracefully is more easily done with a RWD platform, but it’s entirely possible to achieve with a FWD car. Perhaps the challenge adds to the appeal of maneuvering a FWD car in such a fashion. Focusing on controlling the vehicle’s weight transfer according to where the car is in the turn is key. It takes adequate speed, technique and timing. Adding power helps, of course, but you’d be surprised how far you can build your driving skills without dishing out more money for more horsepower. 

If you happen to own an AWD “fun car,” consider adding a “fun stick” and grasp your opportunity to learn a unique skillset. There are many people who will tell you it’s not possible to drift an AWD car, but with the right technique, it can be done. More horsepower helps, as does an understanding of your AWD system. It’s just doing what it’s designed to do: maintain optimum traction, so the driver has to outsmart the computer and take control. Guess what would help you outsmart the AWD system? A hydraulic handbrake. 

Automatic vs manual transmission

Most competitive drift cars are equipped with a manual transmission for a reason. Having a clutch helps your RPMs rev high enough to keep the rear tires burning rubber, which also leads to a smoother slide, but an automatic transmission vehicle can still power through a drift. The more horses your car carries, the better. The absence of a clutch cuts almost 10- to-15 percent of the power and the torque converter can make the performance sluggish. A custom torque converter for a higher stall speed will help balance things out. If you own a newer model with all the automated driving restraints, er, assists, it may cause more complications, but that’s nothing that disconnecting speed sensors and ABS relays can’t fix. If you’re lucky, simply turning off traction control will do the trick.

Since you won’t have the benefit of a clutch to control the car’s pitch in the turn, you’ll be relying on your flicking skills and, you guessed it, the handbrake. In comparison to manual transmission cars, drivers of automatics rely even more heavily on the hand brake to help break traction and initiate a drift. Carrying a drift and transitioning between angles, like the infamous figure eight, is exceptionally tricky without a clutch kick, but that too can be done. Gaining the skills to maintain enough speed to carry and transition a drift in an automatic car will certainly earn you extra bragging rights. You’ll hear a lot of folks say you can’t be competitive in drifting with an automatic transmission, but if achieving the most fun possible with your car is the ultimate goal, installing a hydraulic hand brake is just what the doctor ordered.

Everyone who owns a street-driven toy to drive even more spiritedly on track days needs a hand brake, especially the extra-talented drivers who can drift an AWD automatic. But be forewarned: once you start to break loose, you won’t want to stop. Installing a hand brake could cause an itch for a power increase.

Now that you know what to expect for your next wrenching weekend, take a look at which mods you should avoid. 

Ultra4 Racing waved the green flag once again at the Adventure Off-Road Park in South Pittsburg, Tennessee. Everyone was excited to get back behind the wheel this weekend, after a long hiatus since the King of the Hammers in February. The 4WP Tear Down in Tennessee would be the one East Coast race that would be part of the shortened 2020 Season and racers were going to take advantage of it. With almost seventy racers in attendance, everyone knew that it would be a great weekend of racing.

The course at Adventure Off-Road Park would take the racers through trees, rocks, hills, mud and dust. With the weather forecast predicting rain each day leading up to the race, racers were expecting it to be a typical east coast mud fest, but with only a few small spots of water and mud, the problem now was dust. Part of the course would bring the racers out of the woods and onto a short course, which would soon look like a dust bowl after racers started making their way through it.

This race would also bring four past King of the Hammers champions out to come race through the tree and rock filled hills of Tennessee. Loren Healy and Shannon Campbell with the IFS cars, would come battle it out with Erik Miller and Josh Blyler in their solid axle cars. History would give the advantage to Erik or Josh who have more experience racing in this type of environment. But you can never count out other drivers in the 4400 class that would be showing up like Derek West, Levi Shirley, Paul Horschel and Bailey Cole.

The Friday Qualifying round would consist of a short loop through the woods and a few rocks to set the stage for Saturdays races. Jamie McCoy would make the fastest time in the UTV class, being the first and only UTV to qualify in under a minute, with only four 4400 class cars being faster than him. Casey Gilbert and Cade Rodd would qualify in the top spots in the EMC Class, and be able to lead the rest of the field at the start of Saturdays race. 4400 Qualifying would put reigning King Josh Blyler in pole position followed by his fellow Team Nitto members, Erik Miller and Bailey Cole, to round out the top three spots for the start of the final race on the following day.

Jamie McCoy in the UTV class would start off Saturday's day of racing in the morning. Being the fist one to take the green flag McCoy would run at an incredible pace staying out front the entire race to be the first to get the checkered flag. The four lap course proved to be challenging for the UTV class, with only four of the fifteen racers finishing on the lead lap.  

As the 4500, 4600, and 4800 Classes took the green flag for the EMC race, the course was looking great with all the water and mud dried up from the UTV class racing through it. Battles would be forming around the course, but the day would soon change as the skies opened up and the rain came down. Not lasting long, but definitely changing the pace of the race, the slick mud and rocks would make the tight course more challenging to navigate. Jeremy Jones would make his way from starting thirteenth to battle it out with Cade Rodd and take the win in the 4800 class. Finishing in first in the 4500 Modified class would be Duane Garretson, followed by Jesse Oliver in second and Dave Schneider in third. The 4600 Stock class winner would be Jon Schaefer and Donnie Kehlenbeck in second. They would be the only two 4600 Stock class vehicles to finish the slick and muddy race.

Josh Blyler would lead the 4400 Class up into the rocky hills for the final race of the day. The 4400 class would be doing a total of eight laps around the course, with one of the laps being a joker lap that they would have to make there way down a technical rock obstacle. They would only have to do this on one lap and they could each choose which lap they wanted to take it on, so strategy would come into play.

As the race progressed, the course would prove once again to be too much for some of the vehicles. Derek West, Paul Horschel,  Rusty Blyler, and Levi Shirley, Wayland Campbell would soon be out of the race with mechanical failures, all who had a great shot at taking the win. Loren Healy was running a great pace when one of his rags for wiping his visor would catch fire under his seat from the heat of the exhaust. 

Luckily he was able to safely get out of the car and put the fire out and continue on with the race, but unfortunately it would put him far back in the pack of cars.

Erik Miller and Josh Blyler would swap positions and stay out front throughout the race, with Shannon and Bailey Campbell not far behind.

After the last grueling laps of racing, Nitto Tire Drivers would take the top four spots with Erik Miller coming across the line to take the 4400 Class win, followed by Josh Blyler, Bailey Campbell, and Shannon Campbell.

Click here to see the results from King of the Hammers 2020.

You don't have to invest in a truck or an SUV to have fun off-road. A dune buggy, also known as a sand rail, is a great way to go blasting through the desert at a considerably lower cost. Better yet, whether you chose to build your own or purchase one that's already been put together, sand rails are easy to customize to give you your preferred balance between power and performance.

How are dune buggies built, and what does it take to create an all-terrain terror that won't tear up your wallet in the process? Let's see the universe in a grain of sand with this dive into the world of rails.

Dune Buggy Basics

One of the most beautiful aspects of building a sand rail is that there's no set rules as to what kind of a base you need to start with. Buggies come in both rear-wheel drive and four-wheel drive configurations, and can be put together using anything from a custom tube frame to a pre-existing platform salvaged from a wrecking yard.

In fact, the latter is how the dune buggy business really got its start in the United States. The lowly Volkswagen Beetle was a frequent target as a platform for kit car builders in the 1960s and 1970s because of its lightweight design, simple drivetrain, and ease of repair. The same was true for sand rail fans, which often incorporated the Beetle's chassis into their projects.

Of these, the most mainstream was the Meyers Manx, which was built in Southern California by Bruce Meyers, which was originally offered in kit form before a surge in copycat designs pushed the number of examples sold past 100,000 by the end of the 1970s (6,000 of which were originals). Although the Manx featured a fiberglass tub that gave it a distinctive styling edge, other designs of the era relied on simple sheet metal bolted to a similarly-modified Beetle platform, which made them ultra-cheap to churn out and easy to bang back into shape when their drivers roughed them up out on the trail.

Lessons From The Past

Current dune buggies still walk a path that would be familiar to Meyers (whose company once again started producing vehicles a few years ago after a decades-long hiatus). Modern manufacturing techniques have significantly expanded the possibilities available to even the most modest driveway operations, however, which means variety is the order of the day when tallying visitors to the sands.

Still, there are some unifying factors that are found across nearly every sand rail build. The most important would be ensuring a low center of gravity, which separates a dune buggy from a traditional truck by giving it a much better chance of climbing steep dunes without the risk of tipping over. As a result, sand rails make use of a relatively long wheelbase given their size in order to improve stability. Rear engine placement remains as common now as it did in the Beetle-centric days, as it helps maintain balance while keeping the sand from being blown in the driver's face by the fan.

Most rails feature the tube frame design mentioned earlier, which makes it easier to integrate a roll cage, and few bother with body work or any real protections from the elements. Almost every rig makes use of paddle tires with aggressive tread slots that are excellent for floating across the surface of the sand at a high rate of speed (which is required to avoid sinking in and getting stuck).

Higher-end rigs will protect riders from the sun (topping the roll cage with a flat panel), as well as the sand (with sealed, flat bottoms that can slide across the sand with ease). The more you're willing to spend, the more suspension modifications and engine updates past the basic four-cylinder setups commonly found in the desert become available to you.

Mightier drivetrains are out there, but dune buggies face a very real weight penalty should they load up with a large displacement engine. The heavier the engine, the more difficulty a rail will have staying on top of the sand, and the risk of instability on an incline or decline also increases. That being said, it's not uncommon for power adders and exotic fuels such as methanol to boost output on smaller motors into the 200 horsepower to 500 horsepower range. Those who pursue V8 applications push from the rail category into the 'sandcar' world, where vehicles can often way twice as much and trade maneuverability for speed and brute force.

Stepping Stone Or Stay A While

Surprisingly, in a world where all-terrain vehicles like side-by-sides and four-wheelers have become increasingly sophisticated (not to mention powerful), sand rail and dune buggy culture has remained remarkably resilient. Old school buggies and rails are often viewed as stepping stones to larger Ultra 4 competitors made famous by events like King of the Hammers, and they make a remarkably good starting point for anyone seeking to get involved in off-road racing at a grassroots level.

Even if you decide to stick with a rail rather than move on to a bigger and quicker off-road vehicle, you'll have plenty of company on the dunes each and every weekend whether you're in California, Utah, or Michigan. Anywhere there's sand, a spare Beetle chassis, and a group of friends who want to go fast when the pavement ends, you're likely to find a buggy tearing things up.

What's Ultra 4 racing? Get caught up on the history of the King of the Hammers. 

One-make time-attack purveyors VTEC Club have long been known as perhaps the world’s most popular Honda-only competition series, but that designation really only applies to the reciprocating hearts in its competing vehicles’ engine bays. Those vehicles can be of any manufacture, and while Hondas will always be the most commonly raced in the series, some truly odd K-series Honda swaps in non-Honda platforms have lined the grid over the years.

Today we take a look at six of the current oddest, all non-Honda, but all powered by Honda’s K-series inline-four-cylinder engines, beginning with perhaps one of the craziest of them all.

1. Kam Urquhart’s turbo/K24-swapped Noble M400

The Noble M400 is something of a unicorn. Designed in the UK, manufactured in South Africa, and delivered around the world by private importers, the M400 is the lightweight, track-dedicated, ultra-rare brother of the already-rare Noble M12 road car.

The M400 has no traction control, no ABS, and no airbags. What it does have is a roll cage, two racing seats and harnesses, some gauges, and a lot of power for its light weight, thanks to its native 425bhp, mid-mounted, twin-turbocharged, Ford Duratec V6.

Whether out of necessity (to replace a blown factory engine), or the desire for more power, better aftermarket support, less weight, and easier maintenance, Kam decided junking that awesome Ford engine in favor of a fully built, turbocharged, Honda K24A2 engine would be a better way to go in his Noble. It’s unconventional logic, but the benefits are difficult to deny. With a GSX35R/1.06AR twin-scroll turbo, 1300cc injectors, Hondata KPro ECU, a bunch of other goodies, and tuning by “Pineapple Mike” in Las Vegas, the 2350lb car now puts down 610hp and 486 lb-ft of torque to its rear wheels, through a Quaife sequential dogbox, with plenty of room to grow.

2. Amir Bentatou’s turbo/K-swapped Acura NSX

Similar to Kam’s logic was Amir Bentatou’s decision to huck his NSX’s native, naturally aspirated C30A V6 for a turbocharged 2.0L K20Z1 inline-four. Yes, the high-revving Honda V6 is a thing of legend.

Yes, the torque from an extra two pistons and one whole liter of displacement are great for an equally legendary sportscar like the NSX. And yes, Amir and his NSX were doing a great job of cleaning up VTEC Club competition even before the engine makeover.

But the Honda K-series’s aftermarket support is legendary in its own right, and the torque produced by a built, turbocharged, and well tuned K20Z1 is even more impressive that that of a factory-stock C30A. In this case, Amir feels the 424 whp and 389 lb-ft of torque (on low boost) his NSX currently puts out is more than his build needs on most tracks. And the repeatability and reliability offered by the square, high-revving K20 leaves little to be desired. Oh, and the entire swap shed about 200 lbs from the tail-happy car, so there’s that.

3. A Trio of Toyota MR2s

One thing that makes a K swap a relatively straightforward affair in a Noble M400 or NSX is their mid-engine design that positions a transversely mounted engine over their rear wheels, in much the same way as most FWD vehicles do over their fronts. So, too, does the Toyota MR2, the “poor man’s midship.”

Powered by Toyota 4A or 3S inline-four engines in its first two generations, the MR2 once enjoyed a fair share of aftermarket support. But with a switch to Toyota’s 1ZZ four banger by the model’s third “Spyder” generation, the trend has since faded into history.

Not to worry—Honda’s K-series engines enjoy plenty of support, and with a variety of mount and swap kits on the market, the conversion is now very well supported.

At VTEC’s penultimate competition round just under a year ago at Chuckwalla Valley Raceway we found not one, but two K-swapped Toyota MR2 Spyders, one of them powered by a naturally aspirated K20, and the other by a monstrous turbocharged K24, and both running respectable lap times in the triple-digit heat.

Prior to that, it was Lalo Pineda’s turbocharged K24-powered ‘85 MR2 that caught our attention, when it belted out 447 whp and 442 lb-ft of torque to its rear wheels during Super Street magazine’s “Odd Swaps Challenge,” back in 2017. Some heating issues kept it from performing its best during the racetrack portion of festivities, but the proof of concept it presented was undeniable.

4. Loi Song’s Sportcar Motion ITB’d K-S2K

One popular K-swap application that has emerged in recent years is also one of the more difficult of the bunch: Honda’s own S2000.

Bucking the transverse trend, swapping a K20 or K24 engine into the longitudinally aligned front-engine, rear-wheel-drive roadster requires orienting the engine 90 degrees from its intended alignment, meaning things like the oil pan and pickup, radiator hoses, header, intake manifold, and more all need to be … “massaged” to fit comfortably.

Loi Song and his Sportcar Motion shop figured out that recipe, and their ‘05 S2000 now enjoys a modest bump in displacement and power from the K24 powerplant residing in place of its factory 2.2L F20C mill, but more importantly has access to a plentiful aftermarket and pool of replacements, should anything go wrong.

5. K-swapped NA6 Mazda MX-5 Miata

Team WWR (for Will Wattanawongkiri Racing), the team at least partially responsible for those two K-swapped MR2 Spyders profiled above, are no strangers to Honda swaps in non-Honda platforms.

In 2016, USTCC championship winning driver Nik Romano was claiming multiple VTEC Club overall wins from behind the wheel of a Team WWR F20C-swapped NA6 Mazda Miata, showing the world just how fast Mazda’s little fish could be in a sea of sharks.

Today, in addition to those MR2s, Team WWR has a new Mazda Roadster in their stable, this one powered by one of the buffest-looking N/A K24s we’ve seen in any RWD platform. Its initial shakedowns at Chuckwalla Raceway didn’t achieve the sort of numbers Team WWR is known for, but after some continued development, we’re betting this just might be their quickest creation, yet.

BONUS: All the rest

Don’t think Honda K swaps in FWD Honda chassis are boring or status-quo, these days. Time and time again, we’re reminded that they’re anything but. HASport’s turbo, K24-powered Prelude, Jose Mejia’s supercharged K24-powered DC2 Integra Type R, and team Ruthless Squad’s K-swapped CRX are clear reminders of how powerful, stylish, and just plain cool K-swaps can be in just about anything. We'll return with more from the track, very soon.   

Click here to find out if the Honda K-Series is a more popular engine swap than the small block Chevy.