What's the first modification you should do to a modern performance car? It's hard to argue against the proven wheel and tire upgrade, and that's exactly where I found myself when it came to time to start modifying my 2016 Ford Mustang GT.

Fresh off my adventures in the latest Driver Battle video, it felt like the right time to crack the proverbial champagne glass on my S550 project and begin the journey of upgrading the car in a way to improve performance and looks while still maintaining daily driver duties. 

If there's one problem when it comes to owning a car with strong aftermarket support like an S550 Mustang, it's that there can be almost too many options. Just choosing which of the many available aftermarket parts can be a stressful process. 

However, from the moment I got my car I'd had my eye on RTR's Aero 7 wheel line. Not only are they great looking, they are light for their size and sized specifically for modern Mustangs.

I've also been watching Vaughn Gittin Jr. develop and expand his RTR brand for a decade now, and the aesthetics of his projects have always been spot-on. It wasn't a tough choice to make.

The RTR Aero 7s I went with are a staggered 20" setup, 9.5 inches wide in the front and 10.5 inches wide in the rear. The finish is a satin gunmental that brings out the design of the wheel without clashing against my car's white body.

Typically I'm not a big fan of wheels that are much larger than a car's factory size, but in the case of the Aero 7s I made an exception.

That's because the motorsport influence of these wheels includes a flat, thick outer lip portion that makes for both a meaty and unique look compared with many of the more common aftermarket wheels you see on S550 Mustangs.

As for the tires, this was an easy choice. RTR actually wraps the Aero 7 wheel package complete with Nitto NT555 G2 tires as part of their complete RTR package offered on brand new Mustangs.

It's no surprise that an ultra-high performance tire such as the NT555 G2 is offered with the wheels, as they're known for excellent handling and tremendous traction. The sizes are 275-35-20 up front and 295-30-20 out rear for a noticeable increase in width from my car's 255 front and 275 rear factory tires in the GT Performance Package setup.

Unlike some of my past projects where there was a lot of guesswork involved in getting the right fitment, there were no issues with that whatsoever. Such is the benefit of choosing a wheel setup designed from the ground-up for the Mustang.

Once the wheels and tires were affixed to the car via a set of new lugnuts from Gorilla Automotive, I knew I'd made the right choice for a street wheel setup.

The fitment was spot-on, and even with my car still at stock height, the wheel gap was by no means distracting. More importantly, as soon I got behind the wheel for a test drive the improved grip of the wider, staggered NT555 G2s was readily apparent. 

As I found when I was drag racing last month, putting more rubber underneath your drive wheels is never a bad thing.

And that goes for handling too. The 275s up front help the car turn in much better than before and the design of the NT555 G2 is perfect for my use of daily driving, canyon runs and the occasional track day. They can even hold their own at the drags, as I recently found out.

RTR parts have always been designed with a great blend of aesthetics and performance in mind, and when combined with the proven tire setup it was easy to see why RTR has relied on this wheel setup on so many cars.

Fitting this RTR Aero 7 and NT555 G2 setup to my S550 may have been one of the easiest and most effective car upgrades I've ever done.

It's a perfect start of a new chapter for a Mustang GT that had somehow managed to stay stock for the first five years of its life.

Stay tuned for plenty more as the upgrades and fun continue.

And, if you'd like to see how things went during my first trip to the dragstrip in this car, check out our Driver Battle video here. 

One of the fundamental components of any off-road vehicle is the tires. They’re the final connection between driver the ground, and have to withstand the toughest elements, all while under thousands of pounds of load. What kind of tire you put on your off-road vehicle depends heavily on how you use that vehicle. Not long ago, it was common to have a “trail rig” that was dedicated to off pavement travel, and did minimal highway driving. These days, auto manufacturers are engineering their trucks, SUVs, and crossovers to handle the abuses of off-road driving as well as on road comfort right from the factory. But much of this engineering and design would be useless without all-terrain tires.

The secret to all-terrain tires lies in their dual-purpose nature. All-terrains walk the fine line between asphalt and dirt, designed for casual use in both scenarios. While they’re not the lightest or quietest tire on the highway, nor the best suited for aggressive off-roading, they seamlessly transition from one terrain to the next without hesitation. With the rise of the daily driven, weekend warrior off-road vehicle, all-terrain tires like the Nitto Terra Grappler G2 have become the weapon of choice for enthusiasts who drive their truck or SUV to the trails, and back home. But this advantage is no fluke. There are several engineering elements to what makes an all-terrain a jack of all trades in the tire game.

Tread Design

As one of the most visible parts of the tire, the tread is also one of the most important when it comes to getting traction both on and off-road. Traditional highway tires have tight gaps between their tread blocks, with very little depth. While this leads to a quiet and smooth ride on the highway, it’s not at all ideal for the trials and tribulations of trail riding. Dirt, rocks, mud, and snow can easily become trapped between the tread blocks of highway terrains, effectively rendering them useless in terms of traction. All-terrain tires have a more open tread design, allowing the tread blocks to flex and “bite” the loose terrain below them, propelling the vehicle forward. The deeper spaces between the tread blocks allows dirt and debris to enter and exit without impeding performance. The sturdy construction of the tread design also means they’re less susceptible to tearing or chunking over sharp and treacherous terrain.

Sidewall Strength

One of the most often overlooked components of off-road tires is the sidewall. Not only is the sidewall of a tire responsible for keeping its shape under heavy loads and over uneven terrain, it’s got to protect the tire from sticks or sharp edges that can cause a puncture. Highway tires traditionally have thin sidewalls, designed to hold the weight of the car, but have enough flex to provide a smooth and comfortable ride over the road. All-terrain tires amplify this effect with thicker, stronger sidewalls, designed to flex over foreign objects on the trail, but also offer better protection from the hazards of off-road driving. Getting a random stick through your sidewall is no fun, and can be dangerous depending on how fast you’re driving on the trail. All-terrain tires like the Nitto Terra Grappler G2 have the strong, but flexible sidewall you need to safely and comfortably tackle the trail in your rig.

Towing Capabilities

All-Terrain tires also excel in activities normally seen on the pavement too. Do you find yourself towing a boat or RV to your favorite outdoors destinations? If so, you’ll want to take a look at all-terrain tires for your truck or SUV. When it comes to towing, running proper load ratings are the name of the game. Nitto Tire has a wide selection of sizing to fit your needs. So, whether you're towing a light off-road teardrop trailer for a weekend in the woods, or a triple-axle toy hauler headed to the dunes on a family vacation, there’s a Terra Grappler G2 for you. The real beauty with towing on all-terrain tires is the seamless transition from driving your truck unloaded on the highway, to fully loaded down on the dirt. All-terrains simply don’t skip a beat.

Sizing

The size of the tires you’ve got on your rig has every bit to do with its performance as the way it looks. Tire sizing is one of those important factors to consider when outfitting any vehicle, but becomes even more important in off-road driven trucks and SUVs. Not only does the right size tire fill in your wheel wells correctly, giving your truck a desired look, but it can mean the difference between getting up and over an obstacle or getting stuck. Highway tires simply lose against all-terrains in both of these aspects. Nitto’s line of all-terrain tires come in every size, from a bone-stock vehicle without any lift, to a behemoth 37-inch Terra Grappler G2, ready to tackle anything on your lifted rig. A wide range of wheel sizes makes finding the right Nitto all-terrain easy for anyone.

Ride Quality and Noise

Thinking about getting those mud terrains just because they look cool? If you don’t have the need for extreme off-road traction, you might want to think twice before pulling the trigger on them. All-terrains are the silent assassins of the off-road tire world. The Terra Grappler G2’s tread design is computer engineered to reduce on-road noise while traveling down the highway, without sacrificing any off-road traction. This is what makes them the most popular choice for most off-road enthusiasts who drive their rigs on the road, too.

Lifespan

There’s a common misconception that off-road tires don’t last as long as highway tires do. This is simply not true. How long your off-road tires last depend much more on how they’re engineered, and your commitment to maintaining them. With proper inflation, regular tire rotations and balance, all-terrain tires can last well over 50,000 miles before needing to be replaced. This is a huge advantage of all-terrain tires like the Nitto Terra Grappler G2, and it can even help you save some coin in the long run. But beware, not all all-terrains are created equally. Nitto’s unique spiral-wound technology gives the Terra Grappler G2 the leading edge in construction, which makes them some of the longest lasting all-terrains in the game.

Before committing to a new tire for your truck, crossover, or SUV, it’s best to identify exactly what kind of use your vehicle will see. If you find yourself driving to work during the week with it, but want to explore your local trails or go remote camping on your spare time, all-terrain tires are an excellent choice. Their dual-purpose performance gives them the edge on the asphalt, dirt, rocks, gravel, sand and snow, making them the perfect choice for your active lifestyle. If you’re in the market for a new set of tires on your truck, crossover or SUV, head over to Nitto Tire’s website today and find the perfect set of all-terrains for your next adventure!

Click here to read about the difference between All-Terrain (A/T) and Mud-Terrain (M/T) tires.

If you're thinking of adding aero to your automobile, please don't. Chances are, unless you’re regularly running on a road course, oval, or drag strip and need the extra downforce and cooling that a proper aerodynamic setup provides, you're just going to be reducing your fuel mileage while increasing the volume of the laugh track that follows your car around town.

Even if you do take it to the track, aero that hasn't been intentionally installed and tuned either in a wind tunnel or through lap after lap of testing is likely to be more of a hinderance than a help, especially at higher speeds where drag starts to rear its ugly head.

Check out our list of the worst automotive upgrades you can make to your car: aero edition.

1. Wings That Add Drag

There are two types of wings out there: those that provide necessary downforce to the rear of a car that is traveling at a high rate of speed, and those that instead tack on so much aero drag that any downforce benefits are limited at best.

That little factory spoiler on the trunk of any recent performance car is designed to reshape the air moving around the vehicle, which often has the dual effect of making it more slippery (reducing drag) while also generating a small amount of downforce—as long as you're traveling at least 60 mph, of course.

The giant wing that you and your buddies made out of plywood/fiberglass/leftover aluminum siding, however? It's actively pushing airflow up and away from the trunk, and in doing so it's dragging a whole lot of air with it, ESPECIALLY at 60+ mph. Same goes for the super-expensive tuner wing that doubles as a standing desk for the officer writing up your speeding ticket.

If you don't have access to a wind tunnel, it's going to be hard to know just how much that giant wing is impeding your progress—until, of course, it rips the rivets right out of your trunk lid and flies off to smash through the windshield of the car immediately behind you. That's probably 'too much' drag.

2. Scoops That…Add Drag

Once upon a time, a vented hood on a muscle car meant fresh air fed directly to the air cleaner, which was typically perched on top of the motor, directly in the middle of the engine bay.

Today, electronic fuel injection has made it so that air intakes can be positioned almost anywhere, with the vast majority plumbed somewhere towards the front fenders where they can take advantage of oxygen flow coming in through the grille.

All that to say if you've attached a scoop—or two, or three—to the hood of your car but not bothered to connect it to the actual engine air intake, all you're doing is filling the engine bay with air and potentially generating lift (and certainly producing drag).

Gold star to those who simply slap a scoop on their hood with no opening whatsoever onto their vehicle just because it 'looks badass.' Two gold stars if said scoop is on the roof.

3. Air Vents On The Fenders

Did you actually cut a hole through your fender so that hot engine air could be sucked out, or did you simply use double-sided tape to attach a piece of plastic backed by chicken wire in a spot that may or may not be engine-adjacent?

Shout-out to rear fender scoops that don't actually channel air to the brakes but instead dirty up the flow around the car for extra aero uncertainty at high speeds.

4. Dive Planes That Slice Your Ankles Open

Decades ago, you'd only find dive planes on nuclear submarines. Today, all you have to do is wander the parking lot of your local cars and coffee to unwittingly bang your calves and ankles into ultra-sharp carbon fiber winglets arrayed down the front fender of all manner of autos like some demented midget cheese slicer army.

Dive planes—also known as canards—are used on race cars that need to balance out the downforce effect of a big wing by moving the aero balance towards the front of the car. You need to be generating serious downforce at a high rate of speed before dive planes to anything more than act as very expensive curb feelers. Don't decapitate someone's pet while showing off at a sideshow, and leave the canards at home.

5. Splitters That Scrape Every Driveway, Ever

Dive planes are a relatively recent addition to the dumb aero toolkit, but chin splitters have been around forever. In high speed driving, a splitter performs roughly the same task as a dive plane (shifting aero balance forward), just in a different way (differential pressure between the top and bottom of the splitter itself). By keeping high speed air front piling up under a car, a properly installed splitter will reduce lift and improve handling.

Just driving around town, on the highway, or pretty much anywhere that isn't 3-wide at 150-mph, a splitter is instead going to scrap, snap, and shatter when it's rubbed against the uneven asphalt and concrete that form a typical commute. Even worse, the lower a splitter is to the ground, the less chance it has of creating the negative pressure required to improve downforce, which means a slammed suspension doesn't just mean a shorter lifespan for a splitter—it makes it totally useless.

What are the worst overall car upgrades you can make to your vehicle? We round up the most shameful car mods on the market.

Crossovers are here to stay. Enthusiasts have kicked and screamed, blasted every comments section with hate, but at the end of the day, more and more consumers prefer the increased ride height and ground clearance of these lifted hatchbacks. The roads are littered with CRVs, RAV4s, and Traverses, carting families around from home to the grocery store, to the soccer field, and back again. Out of this takeover, however, there’s been a community rise-up and rally around these seemingly throwaway transportation appliances.

Enthusiasts began to wonder that if a vehicle has a lifted ride height and AWD, what’s to stop it from going off-road? Sure, it’s not going to challenge the legends of the 4x4 world, but if a set of tires and some skid plates make for a more exciting daily driver, what’s the harm in seeing how far they could get?

Several years ago, manufacturers began to take notice. More and more crossovers have been marketed in “adventure-ready” guise. The aftermarket began to take notice, and small companies have appeared offering all kinds of modifications to outfit these vehicles for the trails. We figured it was time to take a look at some of the newest offerings from manufacturers, see what the aftermarket was like for that model, and hopefully provide a good starting point for interested buyers.

2021 Subaru Crosstrek Sport

This entire market owes its existence to Subaru. This Japanese company has AWD baked into their DNA, and the “lifted trail wagon” has been there since the early ‘80s. While nearly all of Subaru’s offerings show up in soft-roader circles, the 2021 Subaru Crosstrek represents the latest version from the brand. A refresh of the existing second generation model, the 2021 Crosstrek Sport finally offers a larger 2.5L engine from the Forester with 182hp. If you want the manual though, you’ll need to stick with the existing 2.0L.

The Crosstrek’s aftermarket is certainly the healthiest for any of the soft-roaders. Wheel and tire companies have released packages tailored to that chassis, companies like Subtle Solutions and ADF offer lift kits, skid plates, off-road accessories, and chassis-specific solutions to problems that arise from taking the Crosstrek further into a trail ready machine. It’s safe to say if you really want to go all the way with a late-model soft-roader build, you should certainly consider the Crosstrek first.

2020 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk

Having a conversation about anything off-road without mentioning Jeep would be a bad move. Obviously best known for its legendary Wrangler, the company has a couple of entrants in the soft-roader scene. For an out-of-the-box ready rig, a buyer certainly wouldn’t be wrong to start with the 2020 Renegade Trailhawk.

With off-road capability already incorporated into the brand, the Renegade Trailhawk offers a few more tricks than its competitors. Trailhawk models are sold with a locking 4WD mode, available crawling gear ratio, hill descent control, and tow hooks. A quick search reveals that many of the same companies that offer lift kits and off-road protection for the Wrangler are offering Renegade parts as well. For buyers that want to dive right in without doing a lot of mods though, the Renegade offers the most bang for the buck.

2020 Toyota RAV4 TRD Off-Road

Another legend in the off-road world, Toyota's recent update to its RAV4 crossover has set the soft-roader community on fire. New for 2020, the most capable model is the TRD Off-Road RAV4 model that builds on the AWD Adventure model by adding a TRD-tuned suspension and stabilizer bars, TRD wheels, and a unique interior. Like other AWD crossovers, a multi-terrain selector switch is available to help guide the AWD system in its behavior.

Although the model is new, aftermarket companies have jumped on board with the AWD RAV4. Companies like Rough Country and LP Adventure are already offering 2.5” lift kits and skid plates, which when combined with TRD package make for probably the best looking of the recent soft-roader entries.

2020 Honda Passport AWD

Although Honda has had several AWD models in its history, the new 2020 Passport is certainly the most aggressively marketed “adventure-ready” model in decades. Built on the existing Pilot/Ridgeline platform, the Passport shrinks its overall size compared to its bigger brothers and adds nearly an inch of lift on AWD models. Sand and Mud modes are added to the multi-terrain selector for the i-VTM4 AWD system.

Several companies have begun offering lift kits for the Passport, but Los-Angeles based shop JSport has been working closely with Honda to offer dealer-installed ready-to-go packages as well as piecemeal products for the aftermarket that are guaranteed not to interfere with factory performance. Time will tell if other companies jump on board with more aggressive mods, but like RAV4, the model’s newness has prevented many owners from going too far down the rabbit hole yet.

2020 Volkswagen Atlas Basecamp

The European off-road scene has always had a strong, devoted following. While Volkswagen hasn’t traditionally been a player in that world (with a few exceptions), their recent 2020 Atlas Basecamp concept shows promise from the German manufacturer. With help from Fifteen52 for wheels and H&R for a set of lift springs, the 280hp AWD-equipped crossover certainly looks the part. An Offroad-Road with hill descent control setting should help the 4Motion AWD system on more aggressive trails.

Like the other newer models, modifications are mostly limited to lift kits, skid plates, and other bolt-on adventuring accessories. Traditional VW-friendly shops like Smith Performance, Forge, and APR are already deep into off-road Atlas builds, so the future seems bright for this model.

This list is certainly not exhaustive. Nearly every manufacturer offers some variation of AWD crossover, so it’s really up to the owner to how adventurous they want to get without serious aftermarket support. Ford’s 2021 Bronco Sport (baby Bronco) will almost certainly be a big contender in the soft-roader market, especially if it borrows styling from its bigger brother.

 Still need to be convinced? Check out our piece on the Rise of the Soft-Roader.

While Ford has been getting a lot of attention with interesting new vehicles like the Mustang Mach E electric and the upcoming 2021 Bronco, no vehicle is more important for Ford than its F-150 pickup truck.

Consistently sitting at the top of America's sales charts, it's a big deal when Ford introduces a new F-150, and the just-announced 2021 model looks to take the level of available tech and powertrain options to an entirely new level.

As with the outgoing F-150, the 2021 uses what Ford calls "a fully-boxed, high-strength steel frame with a high-strength, military-grade, aluminum-alloy body."

Tech Options

Inside, it's not surprising that the new F-150 comes loaded with tech options, including all of Ford's latest driver assistance features, SYNC 4 infotainment—and taking a page from Tesla's book, it will also have over-the-air vehicle updates.

When it comes to a truck design, few elements are more talked about the front grille and Ford promises no less than 11 different grille options for the new truck "all unmistakably F-150."

Engine Options

It's under the hood though, where the 2021 F-150 brings a massive list of new engine options. Things start out with a naturally aspirated 3.3 liter V6 along with two different twin-turbocharged EcoBoost V6s, and the traditional 5.0 liter V8.

It gets even more interesting with an available 3.0 liter PowerStroke turbodiesel engine and for the first time a 3.5 liter "PowerBoost" hybrid V6 which uses both turbocharging and a 47 hp electric motor. 

Final horsepower and torque ratings for all of the engines have yet to be released, but Ford says the PowerBoost engine is "targeted to have the most torque and horsepower of any light-duty full-size pickup with at least 12,000 pounds of maximum available towing capacity." Even more impressive is the claimed 700 mile range of the F-150 Hybrid.

All engine options will come mated to a ten-speed automatic transmission, and it goes without saying that both two and four-wheel-drive will be available across the line.

On-Board Generator?

For those who will depend on their F-150 for work or for weekend adventures, an available on-board generator will also be a desirable option to provide power whenever and wherever needed. 

Every time a company comes out with a new version of a bread and butter product like the Ford F-150, it's always a challenge to deliver important new features while remaining true to what's made the vehicle so successful in the first place.

And with the 2021 F-150 it's looking like Ford has done a great job walking that line. We'll know more when the new truck arrives at dealerships in the future.

And speaking of the future, let's not forget that development continues on an all-electric F-150 that will add even another choice for Ford truck buyers. 

It’s been more than three months since we rotated the 285/75R16 Ridge Grapplers on our ’97 Ford F-350 for the first time, but now our testing is about to get a lot busier. With warmer weather here, countless summer trips are on the calendar and the hybrid terrains are going to see much more use. This will especially be true on weekends, when we’ll often be lugging a travel trailer all over the Midwest. Warmer temperatures also inevitably bring more off-road excursions, and we’ll soon see what the Ridge Grapplers are capable of in light mud and sand. For a look at how Nitto’s hottest new tire performs while towing, how its tread is wearing and why we’re 100-percent satisfied with it so far, keep scrolling.

Tire Specs

Toy Hauling

You’re looking at the primary reason the NittoRidge Grappler was the right tire for our ’97 F-350. The truck spends much of the summer months attached to a trailer, namely the 31-foot toy hauler shown here. The fact that our 10-ply, LT285/75R16 Ridge Grapplers carry an E load range and boast a 3,750-pound load carrying capacity at 80-psi offers the exact amount of overkill we like to have when hooked up to any moderately heavy load. In the colder months, the Ridge Grappler’s 4.5/5 wet performance rating made the soggy, frozen Midwest fall and winter much more tolerable. So far, it appears as if the Ridge Grappler is an above-average performer, no matter the season.

Still Quiet

We know we only have a little more than 6,000 miles on the Ridge Grapplers, but we’ve yet to detect an uptick in road noise, thanks in large part to Nitto’s use of variable pitch tread blocks. To date, they remain very audibly tame, even at highway speed. On the fuel economy front, the Ridge Grapplers continue to hold true to their 1-mpg improvement over the truck’s previous tires (which were mud terrains).

Softening Up the Ride

Because our 10,000-pound test trailer didn’t necessarily call for us to run the Ridge Grapplers at their maximum inflation of 80-psi, we dropped pressure to 70-psi to see if any improvement in ride comfort came from it. We’re in the habit of checking air pressure once a week, but we’re also way more into tires than the average truck owner. If you give yours a monthly once-over, you’ll be just fine.

Uneventful in the Cockpit—Just the Way We Like It

In the cab, the old Ford feels sure-footed with the 10,000-pound wind sail behind us, despite the fact that late spring travel days often come with a fair amount of wind. On the A-pillar-mounted pyrometer, flat-ground exhaust gas temperature (EGT) usually hovers around 1,000 degrees F. Brief peaks of 1,200 degrees are observed on the small grades we encounter, but all things considered most trips are uneventful—a good thing any time you’re moving 19,000 pounds down the highway.

No Need For Fuel Stations

The biggest perk of owning an in-bed toolbox that doubles as an auxiliary fuel tank is that you can refuel when you want to, not necessarily when the fuel gauge says you have to. Our F-350 test mule is equipped with a diamond-plate, 30-gallon fuel tank/toolbox combo from Transfer Flow. Over the course of the past 11 years, its Great Plains Industries fuel pump has performed flawlessly and we’ve generally been pleased with the system as a whole.

No Need For Rest Stops

It goes without saying that toting a “fully-active” toy hauler behind you has its perks, too. Because we wanted to tow at the trailer’s maximum capacity (10,000 pounds), both fresh water tanks were topped off, which meant the bathroom was open for business throughout the duration of this particular 380-mile road trip. Trust us, in the Covid-19 era this was probably the biggest advantage the test trailer afforded us.

Year-Round Peace of Mind

When it was finally time to play, roughly 1,800 pounds worth of cargo was unloaded and put to work in the trails. After getting us through the snow, ice and slush of winter without skipping a beat, we’re looking forward to the Ridge Grapplers safely taking us to and from the trail head all summer long.

Curious how the Ridge Grapplers fared at their last checkup? Take a look at Part 3 for our 4,000-mile review.

Having spent over 8 years in the U.S. Army; Hank “Hanro” Robinson saw tours in Afghanistan, Kosovo and Iraq. He fell into turmoil after leaving the Army, dealing with PTSD and the memories of fallen friends. He had always enjoyed metal work and started taking a welding course in Phoenix, Arizona.

But he truly found his calling when he picked up an engraving tool in class. The creative craft allowed him to channel his experiences and emotions into his art; providing an outlet to help heal and honor those that serve in the military.

His art and ambition has since taken him to new heights creating partnerships with companies like Dremel and Monster Energy and creating custom pieces for musicians, celebrities, racers, events and tradeshows. Hank paid tribute to his fellow vets and soldiers lost with Freedom Blues, a fully engraved Ford F150 he built for the SEMA show several years ago. For his next big build, he looked to showcase his artwork and skill first and foremost to help inspire others and demonstrate the craft of engraving. He kept with the Ford truck platform as it offers an all aluminum body, ripe for engraving. But he opted for a bigger canvas with a 2017 Ford F250 Super Duty, and with the help of FX Autobody, Hank rebranded it as his "Aluminati H250."

1,600 Hours of Engraving

Nearly every surface on the truck has touches of Hank’s engraving work with the largest of course being the body itself. A twist on classic filigree with the Hanro logo fills the panels and accents custom parts throughout.

The engraving was continued onto the Royalty Core front grille insert and steel Fusion bumpers which were then powder coated black for a ghosted engraved effect. The suspension, emblems, speaker panels, air tank, wheels and other parts were all engraved by the Dremel in Hank’s hand.

After being carved by Hanro; the aluminum body was sprayed with BASF Black by Sosa’s Custom Paint before being fully clear coated to protect Hank’s artwork. Custom aluminum wide body fenders and inner fender liners to accommodate the 24-inch wheels and 40-inch Nitto Trail Grappler tires were fabricated by Rad Fab.

Rolling Art

Each year at SEMA, you can usually find Hank setup outside engraving a set of massive wheels. So for the H250’s rollers, a set of 24x14-inch TIS 544 wheels were set on his table and the lips were fully engraved. Wrapped around the engraved wheels is a set of aggressive-looking 40x15.50R24 Nitto Trail Grappler tires that are stopped with R1 Concepts brake rotors. The engraving continued onto the driveshaft and lifted suspension with the arms and traction bars for the McGaughy’s 8-inch Phase 2 lift kit and FOX 2.0 Shox with the remote reservoirs seeing the custom filigree as well.

Command Center

On the inside, the truck is setup for comfort, luxury and sound. One of the biggest mods was done Status Auto Gallery flush mounting a 13-inch iPad Pro in the center of the dash, replacing the factory head unit and control screen. The iPad also controls the Audiofrog speaker system complete with engraved speaker covers. A Roadwire black leather seat kit with silver diamond stitch inserts was installed and the same stitching was used on the door panel inserts and custom headliner by Kevin Kinsey at Scottsdale Auto Upholstery. 

Engraving on the Go

Hank’s Super Duty doesn’t just serve as a show truck, advertising his craft on the road; but as a mobile engraving station for demos at events and shows. To get the proper work station setup in the bed of the truck, the first step was to get power and air for his Dremel and tools. Power is supplied via an Optima battery up front and dual rear 6V batteries in Savior cases. On board air is taken care of thanks to a VIAIR compressor and engraved FLO billet air tank. Acting as his work table and tool box; a Truck Vault setup was installed with a pair of 6.5-foot drawers and a 4-foot table that allows Hank to share his skill and passion with his fellow veterans, art fans, celebrities and truck enthusiasts anywhere he goes. Hoping to inspire others; Hank has been teaching art therapy with the Wounded Warrior Project to help others find the same creative outlets that helped change his life. 

HARD FACTS

Click here to see Superior Off-Road's custom, lifted F-350 show truck.

What is it about the straight-six engine design that makes it almost completely bulletproof? Take a look through the history of American automotive design, and you'll discover a trio of motors that have a hard-won reputation as being unkillable, able to keep running for hundreds of thousands of miles with only the most minimal maintenance required. Some of these engines have even been known to survive catastrophic conditions that would have felled more delicate power plants, requiring only a fluid top-off and a fresh set of plugs to put in another tour of duty.

Let's get deep with the three most reliable American engines ever built.

AMC/Jeep Straight Six

The 4.0-liter inline-six cylinder engine originally found in the ultra-popular Jeep Cherokee XJ was the last AMC motor to be sold in America. It had been developed in the early 1980s, and was based on the brand's previous experience with straight-sixes. Featuring the same excellent crankshaft balance that is gifted to all inline engines, as well as seven main bearings, the lack of vibration, excellent oiling, and strong build quality of the 4.0 would see it offered from 1986 all the way to 2006, giving it a whopping 30 years of continuous production.

Initially, the motor would provide 177 horsepower and 224 lb-ft of torque, figures that jumped to 190 horses when a high output version appeared in 1991. That was the year multi-port fuel injection, a larger throttle body, and a more aggressive camshaft were introduced by Chrysler, which had purchased the Jeep brand from AMC several years beforehand. A new block would appear in 1996, following a revised cylinder head design, but horsepower would remain the same.

In addition to its long lifespan in the XJ Cherokee, the 4.0 would enjoy stints in the Cherokee-based Comanche pickup as well as the Jeep Wrangler.

Ford 300 Straight Six

Way back in 1965 Ford debuted an engine that would serve for more than 30 years as the backbone of its entry-level, task-focused trucks and vans—not to mention pull duty in a long list of agricultural, industrial and commercial vehicles, too.

The 300 cubic inch straight-six made around 100 horsepower when it first went on sale, and peaked at 150 ponies, but the low-range torque (roughly 240-260 lb-ft, depending on the model year) was what made this motor a favorite among fleets and frugal truck buyers alike.

That, and the fact that the 300 CID was virtually a bulletproof engine. With all-iron construction and the use of fiber and phenolic timing gears instead of a timing chain, 7 main bearings (like the AMC design), and a single-barrel Carter carb (before switching to fuel injection in the 1990s), there was very little on the motor that could break. Throw in low compression and an equally modest redline and the Ford mill was rarely ever stressed to the point where it left owners stranded. A version of the engine even won the Baja 1000, one of the most difficult durability tests in motorsports, a stunning three times.

On a personal note, I once had all of the oil leave my Ford 300 at highway speeds (credit going to an oil change tech not properly torquing the drain bolt). I simply pulled into the closest gas station, refilled the engine, and drove the remaining 150 miles home without an issue.

Chrysler Slant Six

Chrysler's famous 'slant' six (so named because its block leans 30 degrees to the right side in the engine bay of the original 60s-era econo cars it was installed in, in order to clear the hood) came in three distinct flavors. There were 170, 198, and 225 cubic inch versions of the motor available, but the 225 is the one that has garnered the strongest reputation for never saying die.

The slant six appeared as a replacement for the L-head six-cylinder motor that simply couldn't keep up in terms of power or efficiency at the end of the 1950s. Unlike other straight six designs that required a long hood, the Chrysler motor moved its water pump to the side and cut the number of main bearings to four, significantly shortening the assembled long-block. The leaning design also helped to lower a vehicle's center of gravity, and improved airflow for the intake and exhaust manifold.

Even with four main bearings, the strong engine block and crankshaft design made for a very stout motor that few owners could find fault with, even during a time when hundred thousand mile cars were few and far between. Initially putting out between 100 and 145 horsepower, the slant six would fill a number of niches for Mopar including commercial and even marine applications once word got out about how reliable it was. A remarkable run from 1959 to 1991 cemented its place in the pantheon of indestructible motors.

These engines are heros, but plastic engine covers? Not so much.

Most classic trucks have a lot of sentimental value and for Craig and Aron Kendall of Alpine, WY, this ’50 Chevy 3100 pickup took them on quite the journey together. The idea of this truck build originates many years ago when Craig was in his 20’s. Back then, he had a 5-window ’53 Chevy like this one and it was his favorite ride. Though he loved the truck, he had to do what was best for his growing family and sell it to pay the bills.

Jumping Back In

As the years passed by, Craig could not get over the fact that he had to get rid of his truck and had the desire to own one like it again. In 2017, a buddy told him about a 3-window ‘49 Chevy he was restoring but lost interest in it and offered to sell it. At the time Craig had some extra cash and figured he had a place to store the truck so, he might as well pick up the Chevy to one day fulfill his dreams.

Moving Forward

Craig told his son Aron about the truck and invited him to come and check it out. Though Aron is more of a 4x4/diesel truck enthusiast, he was keen on his dad’s truck and wanted to help fix it up. His goal was to help make the truck reliable for his dad and mom to cruise or drive long distance for events. To help achieve this, Aron ordered up a 383ci small block Chevy from BluePrint Engines to replace the tired V8 that was in the truck.

A Solid Foundation

Aron also wanted it to have a good foundation and a cleaner look on the underside. He came across Total Cost Involved (TCI) and decided to pull the trigger on purchasing one of their new chassis. Craig was then surprised with it at Christmas time when Aron gifted him a photo of the chassis. Though the construction of it was not complete, this was a great way for Aron to convey to his father what he had in store for the truck.

Switching Gears

The plan was for Aron and his father Craig to work on this truck themselves but as they went further down the rabbit hole, things were going to take longer than anticipated. Realizing this early on, Aron was able to form a solution to move the build at a more reasonable pace. He contacted Premier Street Rods about taking the brunt of the work by setting up the powertrain, chassis and mounting the body. While talking to Ross Logsdon of Premier, Aron found out that they also had solutions for rusted out trucks by offering 100% new bodies. Going this route would not only save time but it would fetch better results. Plus, they could get it in a 5-window cab version as well.

The Build Up

At that point, the chassis was shipped to Premier’s headquarters in Lake Havasu City, AZ for the truck to be built there. Aron and Craig loaded up the engine and a few other parts and made a road trip to deliver these pieces to Premier. The TCI chassis was set up with a modern independent front suspension and four-link rear for smooth ride and performance capabilities. While at Premier, the team assembled the chassis while adding Ridetech coil-overs and Wilwood disc brakes. Then, the 383ci engine was dropped in along with the 4L70e transmission that delivers power to the Currie 9-inch rearend with Eaton Detroit Trutrac limited-slip differential. The engine was also upgraded with a Holley Sniper EFI unit for drivability and dressed up with numerous components from Billet Specialties.

Improved Looks

From there, the body was bolted to the frame and worked smooth for a fresh appearance. Then, the truck was painted PPG Bronze Mist and a Mar-K dark oak wood bed floor was installed. Completing the look of the exterior is a set of 18 and 20-inch Schott Velocity billet wheels. These are covered in 225/45ZR18 and 275/40ZR20 Nitto Motivo tires that keep the grip on the road all season long. This was the perfect choice for this truck as it is meant to be driven and has to navigate through various weather conditions throughout the year.

Creature Comforts

Finishing things out, the interior was upgraded with an Ididit column and Billet Specialties steering wheel. A few goodies like the shifter and pedals from Lokar Performance Products were added along with a set of gauges from Classic Instruments. The truck was then sent to Ron Mangus Interiors, where the Glide engineering bench seat was upholstered like the rest on the interior. Topping it off is a Kicker sound system for audible entertainment during long trips.

Paying It Back

Though Aron got carried away while building this truck, the results turned out stunning. Not only does it look good, but it has numerous features of a reliable vehicle that’s easy to drive. Upon completion, Aron was able to pay it back to his father Craig by helping him create the truck of his dreams. In our opinion, there’s nothing better than that!

Click here to see Sinister: A 1,000hp, slammed '56 Chevy Pickup Truck.

Let’s face it: social media tends to glorify overlanding. Daily chores and personal hygiene techniques are rarely portrayed amongst the breathtaking photos of vast landscapes and sunset selfies. Just wait until smell-o-vision becomes a thing. Want to get a whiff of the ripened aroma of the person manning the camera? There’s an app for that.

Thankfully there are several products and workarounds that make it tolerable to travel with other (and our own) happy camper stank. The topics below will get you rolling down the right road to everything you’ve ever wanted to know, but were too embarrassed to ask about.

Get the Stink Out 

Sometimes you just really need a shower, if not for yourself then at least give your traveling partner(s) a break. Whether you choose a straightforward gravity-fed system or something with a pressurized flow, you’ll find that investing in a portable rinser-offer (yes, that’s a term now) is well worth it. You never know when you might hit an extra dusty road or when you will be forced to layer on the sunscreen or bug spray, or both. What you see here is a fully pressurized shower complete with a propane-powered water heater. The RoadShower is easily pressurized by an onboard air compressor installed in the bed of my Toyota Tacoma. The pressurized water feature also works well for rinsing dishes, but remember to dump anything that would be remotely tempting to wildlife far away from your campsite.

In the second year of having this setup, I realized that showering in a bathing suit while camping trackside is a bit awkward. Being able to hide behind Overland Vehicle Systems’ fold-out shower stall allows me to focus on the task at hand rather than being self-conscious about aiming the shower nozzle down my butt crack in front of an audience.  

Environmentally friendly bar soap, liquid soap, or biodegradable soap sheets. I prefer just plain Bronner’s Castile liquid soap—also great for use in the home. The standard dilution ratio is 1-part soap to every 3-parts water. Bronner’s an all-in-one option that is great for multi-taskers who want to wash themselves, the dishes and laundry in one shot. (Um, just don’t share the rinse water.) It’s also safe to use for bathing in rivers or lakes.

Though it lasts the longest, bar soap needs to be stored dry so as to not to develop mold or grow bacteria. It also requires more water to lather up and it isn’t ideal for dry skin, unless you’re willing to pay more for the fancy stuff. The soap sheets are neat, but when they get wet (which is easy to do) they’re done for. For me, personally, I do carry a bar soap backup and will occasionally carry sheets just for handwashing.  It’s also handy to have biodegradable wipes when you’re feeling a little grimy, but not filthy enough for a complete wash. There’s a wipe for every use, including body, face and butt, with sensitive skin options for all. Body wipes are great for hitting the hot spots (you know where) or to use in place of showers when water is not readily available. Friendly reminder: “Biodegradable” doesn’t mean leave it behind. Pack’em out!

Sh!t Happens

That familiar rumbly in the tummy is back, and it only means one thing. Hopefully you get through this section before urgency kicks in. As more and more people explore the outdoors, poop-related problems pile up. The math really does stink: Humans produce up to a pound of poop per day, plus it can take over a year to fully biodegrade. That’s a lot of potential for disease spread to wild fauna and water sources. Because of all the risks, some popular destinations will require you to bag your poo. In environments where organic material is scarcer, or if you’re staying near river canyons or beaches, it’s best to carry everything out in a sealed bag. A lot of campers use WAG bags, which is essentially a dog bag for humans. Most have a special anti-poo powder that stifles the stink. Everyone should be responsible for properly storing their own bags while on the trail and then discarding them properly once off the trail. Because, ew.

Think about it: If you stumbled upon a mess of old smeary toilet paper—or worse, a pile of human waste, corn chunks and all—the blissful connection to nature that you were experiencing just seconds ago would blow away with the wind. Hopefully downwind… And, um, no photo necessary. Moving on.

You might find yourself in a situation where having a dedicated private relief area, like a portable pop-up pooper tent paired with a portable toilet, is necessary to let it all go. A tent with interior pockets is ideal, so you can complete your palace with wet wipes, hand sanitizer and air freshener.

In areas less traveled, if it’s not an emergency situation, you could enjoy a short hike about 70 paces away from the nearest trail, water source or sounding campsite. Using a trowel, dig a hole, a cathole if you will, approximately 6 to 8-inches deep and 6-inches round,  wider if you have bad balance. The depth depends on the climate, but it’s key to stay in the soil’s organic layer, otherwise, your “organic” matter won’t decompose. Use unscented, one-ply (good luck with that) toilet paper sparingly, or plan to wrap the used squares in a neat little package for the trash. I prefer the latter because I prefer my bottom to be pampered, but If you choose to leave a couple of squares behind, use a stick to stir it into the hole, then cover it. Leave a stick or an ambiguously placed rock on top to let future travelers know what lies beneath.

If you chose a prime location, chances are someone else might settle in there, too. Bet you didn’t think going potty could be so technical, huh? Two more things: Avoid eating too much cheese while at camp. Oh, and consider spritzing your (lower) cheeks with bug repellant before heading out for a squat.

This section is for the ladies

That’s right: finally, some lady-specific camping advice. I never thought of myself as a skincare or makeup collector until I had to learn how to pack for long overlanding trips. Aside from the products suggested earlier, I narrowed my skincare selections down to face wipes, Indian Healing Clay, Alba shaving lotion, and a small bottle of my favorite moisturizer. Achieving glowing skin is much easier when you spend your time outdoors in warmth and humidity. Sweat is the best glow you can get, and it’s cost-effective. For covering up the mess that is me, I carry Physician’s Formula SPF 15 tinted moisturizer, mascara and eyeliner (because I can), and SPF 30 lip balm. I rarely use the eyeliner.

While sweat might do wonders for your face, it can leave your scalp feeling itchy and your hair tangled and crispy. Dry shampoo will help get the oils out, but it’s difficult to find a brand that doesn’t make hair feel heavy or gritty. So far, I like Klorane. Messy buns and hair clips are still the “in” thing, so I take the low-maintenance route. However, if you have exceptionally long, thick hair and wear it down, it works decently to keep the bugs off your back.

Battling the monthly monster is a whole other issue. (it’s ladies only for real this time, guys. Y'all can spare yourselves and jump to the final words.) Many women are choosing flexible cups, like the Diva cup, Softcup, or Lily Cup, among others. Each has a different fit. As gross as it may seem, I’ve found these cups to be the easiest way to dispose of the mass murder that goes on in my innards. When you venture off to freshen yourself, I recommend bringing a small bottle of water and biodegradable soap for cleaning. If tampons are your ticket, be sure to bring enough to last for your trip and have an airtight place to store used ones. Yep, you gotta pack those out. Before leaving home, you can make your own biohazard bag by completely covering a zip-top plastic bag with duct tape and marking it with a skull and crossbones. Add dry tea bags or crumbled aspirin to control the scent and be aware of your surroundings. For example, if you’re in bear country, you’ll need to place this bag in a place where it won’t attract unwanted guests.

Blessing myself with the ability to unzip my bottoms and pee through a tube seemed like a grand idea, so I gave one of those portable silicone funnels a try. When I received my portable urinal, the instructions recommend to practice using the device while you’re in the shower or bathtub. I laughed at the thought but followed the advice. I highly recommend you do the same just to get a feel for it. It’s a bit, um, awkward. Pressing a narrow cup to your privates and praying the small opening drains fast enough to keep up isn’t for everyone, but I have used it several times. Usually when I’m shooting photos at rally races and don’t want to throw the competitors off their course, or more likely, expose myself to the mosquitos.

Final words

Male readers: it’s safe to resume. I want to thank you for making it this far. You’re either brave or heeded the warnings. There are just a couple more general housekeeping tips to touch on, like the most convenient way to carry trash out. Five years ago, research led me to find the Trash-a-roo brand, and it has dutifully served its purpose. It’s easy to spray out, has cargo pockets, and has never broken a strap. However, I constantly have people yelling “Your tire cover is coming off!” There’s something odd about its shape that makes it flap awkwardly in the wind. I’m considering trying something new, like Overland Gear Guy’s spare tire trash carrier.

Okay, one last thing, I swear. I recently discovered an ingenious solution for separating dirty laundry from clean in my duffel bag: dry bags. These watertight bags are traditionally used to protect the items inside from moisture, but they are also perfect for preventing cross-contamination if your space is limited.

Want to know what else to pack for your adventures? Check out this list of overlanding survival gear.

Anyone with even a passing familiarity with Japan knows the country has a tendency to come up with some rather unusual English names and slogans that don't always make a ton of sense. The auto industry has been no exception to this, and there's a long list of Japanese Domestic Market vehicles released over the years that have some downright funky, hilarious or just plain weird names. 

Here are seven of our favorites:

7. Mazda Bongo & Bongo Brawny

While the Mazda of today is primarily known for driving dynamics and classy designs, its history has been filled plenty of more utilitarian vehicles—particularly in the Japanese market. That's where we get to the Mazda Bongo—a van that has been offered since 1966. And if owning a Bongo wasn't cool enough for you could always upgrade to the heavier-duty and larger Bongo Brawny.

6. Mazda Scrum Buster

"Scrum Buster" might sound like something you'd buy to clean your toilets, but the name is actually used on an even smaller Mazda van, this one built by Suzuki and offered in Japan's popular kei class.

And while Scrum Buster may be pretty funny name for a vehicle, if there's one that feels appropriate for the name it would definitely be a miniature-sized van.  

5. Toyota Fun Cargo

Who says hauling stuff can't be fun? Toyota, that's who. The Fun Cargo was a tall, wagon-esque version of the first generation Toyota Vitz, which has become better known recently as the Toyota Yaris. 

While the Fun Cargo was never offered in the US, it was sold in Europe as the Yaris Verso—not nearly as cool of a name obviously. After all, there's nothing funner than cargo. 

4. Daihatsu Naked

While rugged imported 4x4s can be considered a status symbol on Japanese roads, their costs, and more importantly, their size make them rather difficult to drive everyday.

Thankfully there are cars like this Daihatsu which take a Hummer-esque attitude and shrink it down a pint-size , affordable kei-sized hatchback. It's solid idea, aside from the fact that Daihatsu named the car "Naked." You can make your own judgement about what comes to mind when you hear that word...

3. Honda That's

What kind of car is that? Oh, that's a That's. With this Honda kei car produced in the mid 2000s, there are all kinds of opportunities for Abbott & Costello confusion.

Any confusion over the name will likely disappear though when you peg the throttle and feel its 660 cc engine unleash its approximately 50hp on an open road.

2. Mitsubishi Mirage Dingo Teddy Bear Edition

If you were take the toughest sounding vehicle name you can think of and then come up with the polar opposite, it would be hard to come up with something better than the Mitsubishi Mirage Teddy Bear Edition.

The Dingo was a shortened version of the Mitsubishi Mirage that was offered in Japan during the late '90s and early 2000s, and if the name wasn't kawaii enough already, one could opt for the even cuter Teddy Bear Edition. Hmm...how about a Ford Raptor Teddy Bear Edition?

1. Suzuki Mighty Boy

Last but not least we get to a vehicle that might just be the coolest of this whole group—the Suzuki Mighty Boy. Based on the Suzuki Cervo kei car, the Mighty Boy was a front-engine, front-drive "utility coupe" that was offered during the mid 1980s. 

Not surprisingly, the funky shape of the Mighty Boy has earned it a cult following among Japan's classic car enthusiasts, and we'd like to think the name has something do with that appeal as well. 

For more JDM weirdness and other car culture happenings, be sure to check out The Auto Otaku, our latest Vlog series now live on the Driving Line YouTube channel. 

It was only a matter of time before we put Nitto’s F load range Terra Grappler G2 all-terrains to the test. After mounting the 35x12.50R20LT tires to 20x10-inch Krank wheels and balancing each combination in Part 1, it was time for our ’18 Ford F-250 Super Duty to get back to work. Over the past 1,700-plus miles of use, the truck has gone virtually everywhere with a trailer on its back. From towing a mini excavator or skid steer to the jobsite to toting a tandem axle dump trailer around at max GVWR, we’ve been busy since our last installment. All along the way, the G2’s haven’t given an inch. They’re stable, the sidewall surrenders nothing with 15,000 pounds in tow, tread wear is nearly non-existent so far and road noise is a complete non-issue.

If, like us, your personal vehicle is also your workhorse, the Terra Grappler G2 is a great investment in all-around performance, stability, longevity and safety. You’ll see what we mean below.

The Perfect Tire For Towing at GCWR

Grossing 22,500 pounds combined (exactly what the truck is rated for), the late-model Super Duty pulls like a champ. Sure the tuned 6.7L Power Stroke builds a healthy dose of steam, but ultimately the Terra Grappler G2’s out back are responsible for getting its 540 ponies to the rear wheels (along with 1,100 lb-ft of torque). To date, the rigid sidewall of the load range F Terra Grappler G2 tread has had zero problems handling our spirited driving methods when empty or our max GCWR towing efforts.

1,700 Miles, Zero Signs of Wear

After a little more than 1,700 miles (and as you might’ve expected), the Terra Grappler G2 all-terrains are virtually absent of tread wear—at least to the naked eye. As you can see here, the stepped edges are still present on the tread blocks. Luckily, due to the G2’s design the full depth sipes will ensure the appearance of each tire looks the exact same way throughout the duration of its service life.

Logging Tread Depth

For more specific data regarding wear, we put our color-coded Godeson tread depth gauge to work on each tire. If you remember, our specific 35x12.50R20LT’s tread depth measured 16.8/32” from the manufacturer. Now, tread depth reads a smidge over 16/32” (16.2/32” to be exact). If this is any indication of things to come, the G2’s will be under our Super Duty for years to come.

Wider, More Stable and (Best of All) Total Overkill

The added stability gained by upgrading from the stock, 10.8-inch wide 275/70R18’s to the 12.52-inch wide 35x12.50R20LT Terra Grappler G2 has been extremely noticeable. The sure-footed feel the G2’s afforded us is appreciated most when 15,000 pounds worth of equipment is trailing right behind us. Even loaded at max GCWR, we’re still running the 65-psi we initially inflated the rear tires to. No bulging or sagging sidewalls here! This is exactly the kind of overkill we were looking for in an all-terrain tire.

B&W Turnoverball Gooseneck Hitch

Shortly after acquiring the Terra Grappler G2’s and Krank wheels, we did something else to help improve productivity: we installed B&W’s Turnoverball underbed gooseneck trailer hitch, one of the most proven and popular gooseneck hitches on the market. Installed below the bed and with the 2-5/16-inch ball removable, the B&W hitch allows for full bed space when we’re hooked to our bumper tow toy hauler and not the PJ dump trailer. The B&W’s 30,000-pound gross towing weight capacity and 7,500-pound vertical load limit is similar to the Terra Grappler G2 tires in that it provides plenty of overkill for the jobs our Super Duty is typically tasked with.

PJ Low-Pro Dump Trailer

A 16-foot tandem axle dump trailer from PJ Trailers does most of our hauling. The low-profile, gooseneck trailer makes use of 7,000-pound Dexter axles, features a 40-degree dump angle, an adjustable 2-5/16-inch ball Bulldog coupler, a roll-up tarp, two-way barn doors and a spread gate. Empty, the PJ tips the scales at 5,400 pounds, while its GVWR checks in at 15,680 pounds.

CAT Power

For small-scale digging operations, the Super Duty, PJ Trailer and this 304E2 CR CAT mini-excavator make for a pretty solid combination. It might be one of CAT’s smaller mini excavators, but it still registers 8,996 pounds when rolled across the scales—which brings the PJ close to its gross vehicle rating. The 304E2 CR employs a 146 ci, 40.2hp C2.4 engine and a hydraulic system that provides a bucket digging force of 8,498 pounds.

The Right Tools For the Job

Whether we’re digging footings, a crawl space, trenching for drainage, removing muck or building an approach to a structure, the mini excavator, dump trailer, skid steer and certainly the Super Duty used in this small operation are the cornerstones to its functionality. Though the 20-inch matte black wheels certainly add to the tow-rig’s curb appeal, the Terra Grappler G2 tread is what helps make this machine a well-oil one.

Missed Part 1 of our Work and Play series? Click here for everything you need to know about Nitto’s F load range Terra Grappler G2’s.

The compact car craze caught many automakers unprepared at the beginning of the 1970s. With fuel prices rising and consumers increasingly concerned about the state of their pocketbook, American brands would being their awkward transition from the excesses of the muscle car glory days to the, um excesses of the Malaise era.

Caught in between were a group of small commuter cars like the AMC Pacer, vehicles that tried to be everything to all people, but which were often hobbled by shrinking budgets, unsuccessful technology, or weird ideas about what the public actually wanted in a vehicle.

The Pacer was the unfortunate a victim of all three of the above, and yet almost 50 years later it hangs on in pop culture as a model that's simply too weird to die out in the minds of classic car fans and amateur 70s historians alike.

The Best Intentions

Like a number of AMC projects at the time, the Pacer (dubbed 'Project Amigo) was intended to take advantage of a host of new design ideas and drivetrain technologies that would lift it above rivals like the Chevrolet Vega and the Ford Pinto. It was viewed as the 'car of the future' by company execs, and would be heavily marketed as such when it arrived in 1975.

Under the hood, American Motors Corporation had been working frantically to develop a version of the Wankel rotary engine that would delivery a respectable mix of power and fuel economy. In fact, much of the Pacer had been designed around the idea that it would be outfitted with a rotary, which weighed significantly less than a traditional piston-driven engine.

Faced with limited resources of its own (which ruled out other mooted tech advancements such as a potential front-wheel drive setup), AMC went so far as to partner with both General Motors and Curtiss-Wright to build the motors for them.

Fishbowl Living Room

Another major influence on the Pacer were the ideas AMC had about what passengers would expect from compact cars over the course of the coming years. It was an era where individuals spent more time sitting in traffic than they did carving corners, and as such interior room and comfort were prioritized over almost every other aspect of the vehicle's personality.

The Pacer also had to conform to stricter bumper regulations, and that, combined with a general fear that future crash test requirements would be impossibly strict, would go a long way towards creating the unusual shape that the car is most often remembered for. It was a vehicle half as wide as it was long, which gave it enormous cabin volume on par with a full-size sedan despite its ostensible compact classification. Taken together with its enormous glass front, rear, and to the sides (plus its relatively low beltline), it quickly earned the 'fishbowl' nickname.

The focus on practicality extended to the Pacer's ingress and egress points, with the right-side door longer than the driver's door to make it easier to access the rear seat, and a true hatch that made it simple to load cargo on top of the fold-flat back bench when passengers weren't in the mix.

It All Fell Apart

Both the desire for a Wankel and the pressure to build an ultra-safe, and roomy passenger compartment would compromise the AMC Pacer in ways that would inevitably hurt its sales.

It wasn't until the 11th hour that the deals American Motors had made for a rotary power plant fell through. By 1974 even the engineers at giant General Motors had been unable to produce a version of the engine that could meet onerous EPA emissions regulations or deliver the kind of effortless low-end torque that U.S. buyers were used to.

In walking away from their rotary program GM forced AMC to scramble, and although the company had experimented with units from other suppliers (such as NSU), ultimately the car would be saddled with the old-tech inline six-cylinder engine dredged up from the automaker's past. Underpowered and thirsty (checking in at roughly 5 mpg less than its Detroit compact competitors), the motor was also a poor fit for the Pacer's engine bay.

Intentionally kept short for easier urban navigation and parking, the last-minute switch required the team to slice the firewall and bury the last two cylinders deep under the dash. Although it would eventually be upgraded (and a 5.0-liter V8 would join the fray), the Pacer was at a disadvantage right from the moment it went on sale.

The car's unusual proportions (penned by Dick Teague, who would later be responsible for the Jeep Cherokee XJ), would also make it an outlier in a world where compact cars were increasingly svelte. It was difficult for AMC fans to reconcile replacing the relatively normal-looking Gremlin with the much less conventional Pacer, especially when the Vega, the Pinto, and soon the Monza were available at the same price. Much of the Pacer's running gear was borrowed from other, less-than-exciting AMC products too, which meant it wasn't all that interesting to drive.

AMC's Last Hurrah

After a solid start, the AMC Pacer never truly found its audience. Despite its heavy curb weight, only 100 horsepower at its disposal, and a somewhat expensive price tag, 145,000 families were able to look past the Pacer's unusual styling and notice the spacious and comfortable habitat it offered them as they parsed traffic jams and waited in fuel lines. Media response was also surprisingly favorable, but gushing reviews focusing on the car's positive points couldn't turn the tide in AMC's favor after quality defects—particularly in the engine bay—began to turn off buyers.

The car also slowly became the butt of jokes about its looks as time went on, and by 1977 sales figures fell off a cliff, never to recover. Even with a wagon and a V8 now in the picture, by the end the Pacer was moving less than 10,000 units a year, with 1980 marking the model's swan song.

Today, the Pacer has become somewhat of a lovable oddball, thanks in part to a starring role in the Wayne's World movie franchise. That being said, values have never risen among collectors, making the AMC among the cheapest 70s cars on the modern market. Neither ahead, nor of its time, the Pacer shows us what happens when a car company's dream of progress is denied by the harsh financial and technical realities of the auto business.

The Pacer wasn't the only 70s experiment from AMC. Check out the American Motors AMX/3 mid-engine supercar that could have completely changed the brand's image.

Shortly after Ram dropped the news on the third-generation EcoDiesel back in June of 2019, GM fired back a few weeks later with all the details on its new, inline-six 3.0L Duramax diesel. We thank both Ram and GM for setting the stage for the statistical shootout that’s about to follow. Ironically enough, the latest EcoDiesel V-6—with its CGI block, reworked aluminum heads and revamped fuel system—edges out the I-6 Duramax in peak torque (480 lb-ft vs. 460 lb-ft). However, the aluminum block, iron cylinder liner’d and aluminum headed Duramax cranks out a class-leading 277hp to the EcoDiesel’s 260 hp. Both power plants feature stout bottom ends, make use of the latest and greatest in common-rail injection technology and offer the most fuel efficient engine option their respective manufacturer offers. Below, we’ll examine why these two are so well matched.

Rock Solid Short-Block (EcoDiesel)

Though we haven’t seen it disclosed in any official literature released by FCA (parent company of Ram), there is no reason to suspect the new 3.0L EcoDiesel won’t retain its 60-degree, compacted graphite iron (CGI) block or the one-piece bedplate (which eliminates individual main bearing caps while at the same time tying the main bearings in with the crankcase). We also doubt anything changed in securing the main bearings, with each one accepting six 12mm bolts. Four head bolts likely still exist per cylinder, but their 14mm diameter gives them plenty of clamping strength for keeping the head gaskets alive even at high boost levels.

Aluminum Block, Iron Cylinder Liners (3.0L Duramax)

Thanks to its I-6 design, which in addition to being inherently balanced incorporates seven main bearings (one main between each rod bearing). This means the forged-steel crankshaft in GM’s 3.0L Duramax isn’t going anywhere—i.e. it doesn’t need a bedplate. Also unlike the EcoDiesel, the Duramax sports an aluminum block. But the Duramax earns bonus points in the durability and serviceability department, as each cylinder is fitted with a ductile-iron sleeve.

Forged-Steel Rods and Cast-Aluminum Pistons (Both)

Continuing on with the stout bottom end accolades, both engines make use of forged-steel crankshafts and connecting rods. Each mill also utilizes lightweight cast-aluminum pistons, the EcoDiesel’s bringing its compression ratio down to 16.0:1 from 16.5:1 previously and the Duramax’s hypereutectic pistons featuring 15.0:1 compression.

Class-Leading Torque (EcoDiesel)

The EcoDiesel’s 480 lb-ft of torque is tops in the half-ton diesel segment, as well as the biggest torque figure of any engine offered in the category (the one exception being the late-model Raptor’s 510 lb-ft). The V-6 oil burner’s newfound abundance of twist also peaks 400 rpm sooner than it used to (1,600 rpm now vs. 2,000 rpm then). However, despite the best-in-class torque rating, the I-6 Duramax boasts a torque curve that’s factually broader and arguably much more usable, peaking at 460 lb-ft but sustaining it from 1,500 rpm to 3,000 rpm.

Highest Half-Ton Diesel Horsepower (Duramax)

Surprisingly, the inline-six LM2 Duramax bests the EcoDiesel in horsepower, turning out 277 ponies to the EcoDiesel’s 260 hp. The revvy, DOHC Duramax achieves its peak horsepower rating at 3,750 rpm while the EcoDiesel does it at 3,600 rpm. As far as the aftermarket is concerned, the powers that be at Banks Power have led us to believe the EcoDiesel platform will support more than 600 hp when properly equipped.

Quiet, Efficient and Powerful (Both)

High-pressure common-rail injection is nothing new on diesel engines, but the EcoDiesel’s revamped Bosch system and especially the arrangement employed on the Duramax are as cutting edge as it gets. At the heart of the EcoDiesel, a Bosch CP4.2 creates injection pressure in excess of 29,000 psi for the solenoid valve injectors, equipped with new and improved nozzles, to spray in-cylinder. The Duramax’s system produces a maximum of 36,250 psi and also employs solenoid valve injectors—injectors which can pull off as many as 10 injection events per combustion cycle. The result of both system’s ultra-high pressure and multiple-event injectors equates to whisper quiet engine noise, reduced NVH, outstanding fuel economy and tremendous power given their limited engine displacement.

Fuel Sippers (Both)

Now on to what many believe will be each engine’s principal selling point: fuel economy. On paper and according to the EPA’s estimates, these two are very evenly matched. The 2020 Ram 1500 EcoDiesel is said to be capable of achieving 32-mpg highway in 4x2 form. A Duramax-powered 2020 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 is believed to be capable of seeing 33-mpg highway in the same 4x2 configuration. It’s unclear which one wins this particular category out in the real world, but if you’re looking for maximum range and/or fuel savings you can’t go wrong with either option.

Is the Diesel F-150 Out to Pasture Now?

Ford has been left in the dust at present. Its 3.0L V6 diesel still holds its own in the fuel efficiency department, but it’s considerably underpowered in comparison (250 hp and 440 lb-ft). And Ford, no doubt happy with the more than 60-percent take-rate it sees with the 3.5L and 2.7L EcoBoost engine options, probably isn’t likely to pour a lot of resources into catapulting its diesel option back out in front of the Ram and GM oil burners any time soon.

Check out the 3.0L diesel half-ton shootout we put together just four days before Ram unveiled its latest power figures for the Ram 1500EcoDiesel (hint: the F-150 is included).

It's an amazing time to be shopping for a factory-built off-road truck. Options like the Jeep Gladiator, the Ram Rebel, the Chevrolet Colorado ZR1, the Ford Raptor, and the Toyota Tacoma provide fantastic trail packages backed by a factory warranty. Three of those trucks are even available with an optional diesel engine, which would have been unthinkable even ten years ago.

Of course, having so many choices can lead to purchase paralysis, especially when trying to figure out which vehicle fits best into your particular lifestyle. After spending a week behind the wheel of the 2020 Ram 1500 Rebel Ecodiesel, we decided to pit it against the ultra-popular Jeep Gladiator Rubicon (also available with a diesel engine) in a head-to-head battle to determine which one of these tough trail trucks is easiest to live with on a daily basis.

We also wanted to answer the question that we've heard over and over since Jeep's pickup hit the market: do you really need a Gladiator to have a good time on the trail, or is a full-size truck a better all-around option?

Ram Leads On Value For The Money

If you're shopping on price alone, the 2020 Ram 1500 Rebel makes a compelling case in this comparison. With a starting price of $45,440 (when equipped with four-wheel drive), the Rebel delivers a 6'4" cargo box and four-door practicality in a full-size truck footprint.

The 2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon may be $1,500 cheaper on paper (MRSP $43,875), but keep in mind that it offers a mid-size package that isn't nearly as spacious inside the cabin, nor as useful in terms of towing (7,000 lbs vs. 12,560 lbs) or cargo capacity (due to its maximum five-foot box).

Although each of these vehicles is offered with a standard 3.6L V6, those tow ratings are made possible when opting for each model's respective turbodiesel V6. Essentially identical (with 260 horsepower and either 442 lb-ft (Jeep) or 480 lb-ft (Ram) of torque on tap, the Ram's EcoDiesel option is about $1,000 more ($4,995) than the $4,000 you'd pay to put the same motor in the Gladiator.

Even with that extra cost penalty, it's clear that the Rebel is 'more truck' for nearly the same money.

Gladiator's Gear Is More Focused

If your concerns are more trail than tow-and-haul, however, the Gladiator Rubicon starts to look like a more tempting proposition. Hardcore off-roaders can, of course, appreciate the strength and durability of its solid front and rear axles (with locking differentials), Fox shocks, 33-inch rubber, and the RockTrac 4:1 low-range available through its four-wheel drive system. Rock rails guard the bottom half of the Rubicon's cab, and skid plates armor up the underneath. Then there's the remote disconnect for the front swaybar, a carry-over from the Wrangler Rubicon (as with much of the Gladiator's gear).

Although the Rebel matches the Rubicon for tire size, and also offers respectable levels of skid plating, it doesn't feature the same level of ground clearance, and its single e-locker rear end is matched with an independent front setup. Bilstein monotubes take the place of the Jeep's Fox dampers, and the rocker panels are completely unprotected.

That's not to say that the Ram is no good at tackling the rough stuff. This is a very capable truck, and it takes real effort to get it stuck in sand, high-sided on a hill, or to find a surface it can't climb with a talented driver behind the wheel. Still, there's no denying that its sheer size is somewhat of a liability on tighter trails, and that the Gladiator is better equipped for finesse work like rock-crawling.

Day-To-Day, The Rebel Takes The Prize

Although the Gladiator may take point off-road, in regular driving its rugged construction becomes a significant liability. The Rubicon trim wanders and weaves its way down the highway, easily pulled by ruts and only casually responding to the constant steering inputs necessary to keep it pointed in a straight line. It's a driving experience unlike any other modern vehicle, one that can be tiring on longer trips and worse on slick, wet pavement in colder weather.

The Ram 1500 Rebel features none of the above bad behavior, and given that it's available with the choice of either steel coil springs at the rear or an optional air suspension, the feel behind the wheel is much more refined in every respect. Yes, it's bulky to the point of being a bit of a pain in city driving, but that's true of every full-size truck.

The other sizable advantage enjoyed by the Ram extends past its more modern chassis to include its better appointed cabin and expanded feature set. The Gladiator Rubicon's tendency towards simplification means toggles and lumpy dials abound, while the Rebel's enormous 12-inch touchscreen and available leather interior present as much less spartan. You'll have to pay more for the top-tier niceties offered by the Ram, but it's a level of sophistication that's unavailable from the Gladiator.

Gladiator's Design Is Still The X-Factor

Just like the Wrangler, the Gladiator Rubicon can remove its top, and even its doors, to provide the kind of fun-in-the-sun experience that no other pickup on the market can manage. The closest you'll get to that in the Ram Rebel is a sliding rear window.

For some buyers, that's a non-negotiable aspect of their four-wheeling experience, and as a result they're willing to tolerate the Jeep's faults. If you're new to the Jeep world, however, you'll want to keep in mind that the price of those removable components, even if you go with the hard top, is a louder cabin, especially in terms of wind noise on the highway.

What did we think of the original Ram Rebel when it first hit the scene? Check out our review of the 2016 Ram 1500 Rebel.

Coilover suspension isn’t just for competition vehicles. Cars used mostly for street driving reap the benefits, too, and it’s a noble way to gain a few “cool kid” points. Plus, despite the common assumption that coilovers can be nothing but a stiff ride, when done properly, this is one upgrade that can (literally) save your ass, especially if you are driving an older car or one that’s racked up 50,000 miles or more.

Driving a vehicle with outdated stock suspension isn’t fun for anyone. It can cause unnecessary wear on your vehicle and rattle your kidneys raw. Springs are bound to lose compression and rebound pressure with age, so repairs are inevitable. And, well, you may as well upgrade while you’re in there, right?

"Rex," my '88 Mazda RX-7, was way overdue for an upgrade. So overdue, that if he (yes, he) were a library book he would have racked up hundreds of dollars in fees. Every well-intentioned cruise through town resulted in embarrassment over the car’s excessive porpoising and swaying with even the smallest imperfection in the road. Granted, Michigan’s potholes are like craters and the spidery cracks in the road are starting to resemble ravines, but I am not ashamed to steer like a drunken sailor if it’ll spare a rim. What’s even worse is feeling the instability through the steering wheel, and then fighting a nagging longing to unlock the car’s full potential. And don’t get me started on the stock, almost 4x4 stance appearance that's so bad I can fit a fist-and-a-half between the fender and top of the tire—UGH.

Spirited drives didn’t have nearly enough spirit, though new tires wrapped around Enkei 92 wheels certainly helped with the grip. It was time for a change, but my needs were specific. For Rex to remain a full-time summer fun car on the road and track, and on ever-changing mostly terrible public roads to boot, I needed fully adjustable suspension. A setup comfortable enough on the street and tough enough for the track, and one that would last. That’s right folks, I actually plan on keeping this car for a while (give me three years). Even more importantly, the shocks needed to be rebuildable, with extra bonus points for U.S.A. manufacturers.

Go Full Custom

The best solution for the 30-year-old suspension and my road-dominating requirements for Rex was to go with a company that would custom build the coilovers to my needs. After researching the internets and reading through countless facts and opinions on various companies, I called Fortune Auto based on their promise of every order being custom-built in-house with the best quality control in the industry. That first call instantly ended my search. Without any hesitation, aside from a couple jokes about the potholes that eat cars out here, they immediately pointed me toward the Generation 7 500 Series and set me up with custom spring rates, shock tuning and specific valve settings for the best ride quality possible for my unpredictable local roads. The gleaming new parts even came with a certificate of authenticity and installation instructions.

The install was as simple as uninstalling the old and replacing it with the new. Minor adjustments lowered Rex down to the muffler-scraping height I desired.

Don’t be a Cheapskate

As you spring into brand research, keep in mind that going the cheap route often earns you a rougher ride with less adjustability. Some of the off-the-shelf mystery brand kits are a downgrade in overall quality when compared to an OEM replacement. If you can’t afford quality, it may be best to settle with an OEM replacement, and there’s nothing wrong with that as long as you just keep driving.

Depending on budget, your performance needs and personal preference, there are several manufacturers that make quality street to competition coilovers. BC Racing is one of the largest aftermarket suspension parts distributors and they offer affordable, high-quality coilovers that are capable of dominating the track and street. A lot of pros also hit the track with KSport, but after doing some online reading of other drivers’ experiences, KSports may be better for serious track-only setups.

Overall, coilovers present a more rigid ride than what an OEM replacement would be, but in a way that encourages more fun-having. The stance is a bit more serious and the steering more responsive, which allows me to feel even more connected to the road. I should note that I am one of “those people” who likes to feel the road as much as possible. On the contrary, I don’t want to see any blood in my urine, either.

Before I committed to coilovers, every spirited corner was white-knuckled, but not in a good way. When I turn through the twisties today, I’m confident in the suspension and I know the tires will grip, and the quicker I can whip around corners the wider my smile gets. I still cringe and swerve around every pothole, maybe even more so. But is it still worth it? Hell yes. But there is one downfall: now I can clearly feel the worn ‘80s rubber bushings crumble away with every turn of the wheel.

Since suspension is now top-of-mind, take a deeper dive into tuning your setup to maximize on-track car control.  Or, if you’re also considering air ride suspension, click here for a comparison.

As the Fourth of July holiday weekend approaches, it's not surprising that Dodge has decided to announce its 2021 performance lineup, which comes packed with All-American Hemi muscle.

Dodge revealed three new additions to the lineup for 2021 based on the Challenger, Charger and Durango SUV—each of them squeezing out additional horsepower and adding new performance tricks.

2021 Dodge Charger SRT Hellcat Redeye

Let's start with the Charger. After going widebody for the 2020 Charger Hellcat, Dodge has now applied the Redeye treatment to its four-door muscle sedan for 2021.

As with its Challenger counterpart, the SRT Charger Hellcat Redeye gets a horsepower boost up to 797 horsepower from its 6.2 liter superchargeed V8.

That's enough for Dodge to call the Charger Redeye the "world’s fastest mass-produced sedan" thanks a a top speed of 203 miles per hour.

The Quarter mile time meanwhile comes in at 10.6 at 129 miles per hour.

2021 Dodge Challenger SRT Hellcat Super Stock

Over on the Challenger side, a new drag-focused model called the SRT Hellcat Super Stock joins the lineup for 2021.

 It brings to the table many of the same tricks we saw on the limited production Demon a couple years back.

A special engine tune raises the output of the blown Hemi to 807 horsepower—a ten horse improvement over the Challenger Redeye. Torque comes in at 797 pound feet.

Much more important is the vastly improved drag strip traction provided by a set of 315/40R18 Nitto NT05R D.O.T. approved drag radials mounted on lightweight 18" wheels, plus maximum performance Nitto NT05 tires in the front for better handling in the corners.

Along with a few other tweaks aimed at the drag racing set, Dodge claims the Hellcat Super Stock will do 0-60 in 3.25 seconds and run the quarter mile in 10.5 seconds at 131 miles per hour.

2021 Dodge Durango Hellcat

Perhaps the most exciting vehicle announcement though is the 2021 Dodge Durango SRT Hellcat.

As its name suggests, Dodge has finally dropped the Hellcat engine into its three-row Durango SUV, using a very similar formula to Jeep's Grand Cherokee Trackhawk.

The Durango Hellcat makes 710 hp and when propelled by its standard AWD system, it can do 0-60 in 3.5 seconds and run the quarter mile in 11.5 seconds.

The addition of the Hellcat model comes amid a 2021 refresh for the whole Durango line which includes a new fascia with a heavy Charger influence and a new driver-centric dashboard layout, along with the latest in Dodge's infotainment features.

Dodge says the Durango Hellcat is going to be a one-year only offering, meaning that if you've ever wanted a three row SUV with over 700 hp now might be the time to get one.

With all three of these vehicle platforms getting up there in age, its great to see that gearheads at Dodge and SRT working to keep them fresh continually pushing the envelope when it comes to performance. What could be more American than that?

Click here to see our comparison between the new Chevy C8 Corvette vs the Dodge Challenger Hellcat.

How many times have you have seen a custom car interior done on the cheap that didn't look like it had been assembled by a gaggle of 10 year olds with an unlimited line of credit at J.C. Whitney? It's puzzling, but the worst parts of personalizing the passenger compartment of a vehicle almost always tend towards excess, tackiness, or faux-racer cred.

Each of these dark paths bring with it their own interior upgrade pathos, which is why we gathered up the worst car mods you can make to your cabin and explain why you might want to reconsider all of those stick-on/paint-on accessories and 'functional' track safety gear that's actually going to put you at greater risk out on the street.

Check out the worst interior mods you're likely to find in the wild and woolly world of do-it-yourself style.

Stick-On Carbon Fiber

Carbon fiber is prized among car builders because it's both lightweight and strong, allowing it to serve many roles in the construction of a high performance car. It's also one of the most popular ways for low-buck customizers to add an 'exotic' look to their interior of their automobile by way of stick-on panels made out of the thinnest sheets of carbon fiber swept up from the floors of real tuner shops.

'Just look at how light my interior is!' these adhesive-applied dash panels, door cards, and shifter surrounds scream to uninterested passersby and jealous 14 year olds eyeing with envy in the supermarket parking lot. And yet, little thought is given to the fact that the car would be even lighter if it didn't have meaningless cosmetic carbon fiber added to the mix. Because how would everyone know how fast your car was if they couldn't see the weight savings?

Unpadded Roll Bars/Roll Cages

Roll bars and roll cages make a lot of sense for a car that's going to spend time on a race track, where participants are wearing helmets and are strapped in as tightly as possible to their seats.

On the street, where you're attached with a 3-point belt and only wear a helmet if prescribed one by a childhood doctor, having solid steel anywhere near your skull or limbs is a recipe for broken bones and the kind of head injuries that airbags and soft-touch interior panels are designed to prevent. Imagine yourself flailing around inside a jungle gym during an earthquake and you'll quickly get the idea why you need to fully foam up with padding or simply retire your track car from street duty.

A Dozen LCD Screens

First it was TVs in the headrests. Then on the center stack, whirring out of the head unit to pop-up and block your access to the climate controls.

After that it was a screen on the gauge cluster, one behind each sun visor, and one in between the rear seats that inverts the image so you can watch it in your rearview mirror. Don’t forget the Playstation in the front seat and the DVR so you don't miss a single episode of 'Pimp My Ride.'

4-Point Harnesses

Remember what we said above about being tucked in tight on the track? That might be fine when you don't have to deal with cross-traffic, but day-to-day driving in a racing harness means you're stuck to your seat to the point where you can't even lean forward to look both ways through an intersection.

Oh, and if you do loosen the belts enough for a bit of back-and-forth motion, you'll be rewarded with a broken sternum should you ever end up in a collision, because harnesses belts don't have any give to them like a standard seatbelt. It's the impact equivalent of chest-planting onto a concrete sidewalk.

Full Race Seats

Adding to the fun of low visibility in a high stress situation are full race seats. Often equipped with wings that make it difficult to see 90 degrees on either side of your face, and certainly bolstered to the point where turning to check your blind spot is an exercise in futility anyway, these buckets were never designed to deal with the flow of highway or city traffic.

All of this is on top of the contortions required for you and your passenger to get in and out of the vehicle once they're installed. Don't worry—that person riding beside you will most likely only ever want to do it once.

DIY Interior Paint

Tired of the color scheme inside your car? Want to both drastically lower its resale value and advertise to the world your inability to keep it between the lines? Then why not paint your vehicle's interior using the most garish possible hues, either in matte rattle can or brush-marked plastidip?

Try to think of the last time you saw a car come from the factory with bright blue air vents, or a lime green gauge cluster. Then remember that you're thinking of the bumper cars from the state fair. You know, the ones that the kids all threw up in. Because the colors were so awful.

If you thought these interior mods were bad, wait until you check out all the unnecessary aero that's out there.

As you may have seen on our YouTube channel (click here to watch the video), I recently had the chance to take part in one of Driving Line's Driver Battle videos with my 2016 Ford Mustang GT.

It was a highly enjoyable experience, and despite being involved in the automotive hobby for most of my life, this was my first time actually racing my car at an official drag strip.

I'd photographed and written about countless drag events over the years and driven my own cars at both autocross events and open track days, but getting out to the drag strip (and battling our own Greg Friend in his '73 Mustang) was an entirely new experience for me.

Here are five things I learned:

1. Not as Simple as it Looks

From an outsider's perspective drag racing looks quite easy. You just wait for the light to turn green and stomp on the gas right? Trust me, it's all easier said than done. 

We've all seen the guy show up at the drags in what should be a really fast car only to get embarrassed because he doesn't know how to drive it. And, after trying it myself, it's easy to see why that happens. 

Even compared to other driving events I've done, with such short window to get things right, even the tiniest mistake can be amplified by the time you pass through the traps.

2. Traction Control? Launch Control? What are Those?

This part is going to depend heavily on what kind of car you are driving, but a modern performance car is likely going to give you a number of options when it comes getting off the line.

Traction control on? Traction control off? A lot this will depend on how advanced your car's traction control is. A lot of older system will simply cut power and kill all of your momentum, while newer more optimized systems can actually do quite well.

Launch control is another option you'll find on lots of modern performance cars and it's also equipped on my Mustang. However, being a manual transmission using launch control isn't quite as easy as setting it up and letting the car do its thing.

3. Stick Shift Adventures

There's no getting around it. Manual transmissions are fun—and easily my preferred option in an enthusiast vehicle. However, trying to maximize performance at the drag strip with a manual is always going to require some extra work.

In my case, I decided to go with traction control off but didn't use launch control. Feathering the clutch seemed to work as I managed wheelspin off the line the old fashioned way. Fortunately, the sticky surface of the track combined with traction from the Nitto NT555 G2 tires out back gave me no issues keeping the car straight down the track.

Yes, it might be more of a challenge when compared to driving an automatic, but banging gears down the track was just as rewarding as I'd hoped.

4. Practice Makes Perfect

This one is a no-brainer, but it's all about seat time. If there's one unfortunate thing about taking your car to the drags its having to spend most of your time in the staging lanes.

The best drag strip outing is one where you get as many runs as possible, giving you a lot more opportunity to hone your technique. Perhaps more so than other type of motorsports, just one fraction-of-a-second screw-up can basically ruin your entire run, and having to wait hours to get another shot can be tough.

Fortunately, on this particular day we were given ample time to practice, and by the time the "money run" came I felt reasonably confident in my ability to get my Mustang down the track.

5. The ET Isn't Everything

Remember what I said about drag racing being more complicated than it looks? Well, during our Driver Battle I ended up spending most of my practice time familiarizing myself with the car, and honing my techniques to get off the line quickly and easily—dropping my overall ET with each run feeling pretty good about myself.

However, I'd soon find out that I overlooked one critically important part of drag racing—reaction time. When one talks about a car's elapsed time, the timing doesn't start until the car starts rolling.

But when you are racing someone heads up as we did in our Driver Battle, it's crucial that you time the lights right and get your car rolling as quickly as possible. Because THAT part very much counts for the overall race.

Lost in my own concentration over trying to get a smooth and efficient launch, and still in my "practice" mindset, I overlooked the crucial reaction time, which can make or break a heads up race.

If you haven't yet watched it, you can check out the video itself to see how things ended up. I will say that after my little taste of the drag racing spotlight, I may be hooked.

Now that I've got a fresh set of RTR wheels and some meatier NT555 G2 rubber under the fenders I can't wait to get back out there and try again.  

Making your Jeep JK standout in sea of Wranglers can be a difficult task. Despite the fact that it is likely the most modified vehicle in America, with over two million JK’s produced, there are only so many ways you can make yours look radically different. Fortunately, Chris Durham Motorsports has a very retro solution with its JK Gladiator conversion.

While images of converting your Wrangler into a pickup might not be the first thing that comes to mind thanks to the 2020 Jeep Gladiator truck, it’s not that type of conversion. Instead, this bolt-on kit provides 2007 to 2018 Jeep Wrangler JK’s with the front end styling cues dating back to the Jeep Gladiator truck from the 1960s. It does this by replacing your original hood, grille, and fender flares with hand-crafted fiberglass components—all of which are made in the USA.

To check out what it takes to transform a typical JK, we took a drive to Chris Durham Motorsports in Pickens, South Carolina. There, we watched as a Hemi-powered JK got an extreme makeover in just a couple of hours. While you can watch our entire Inside Line episode covering the JK Gladiator conversion on our YouTube channel, we’ve put together some highlights from the install in the article below.

JK Specific

Chris Durham Motorsports offers hood and grille conversions for a few generations of Jeeps. This particular Gladiator conversion is designed for the 2007 to 2018 Jeep Wrangler. Though the model we were shooting had been upgraded with a supercharged Hemi V8, the kit can work with any stock, supercharged, or V8-swapped powertrain.

The Kit

Each conversion is comprised primarily of fiberglass panels, along with the necessary brackets and hardware you’ll need. The conversion will ship unpainted. So, you will need to decide if paint or a wrap is the best answer for you. It was pretty clear to us from watching the install that you could easily do this at home. However, Chris Durham recommends using a body shop to ensure the best possible fitment.

Grille Options

An especially novel touch for those looking for true retro flare is the fact that an OE Gladiator grille from will work on this conversion. If you don’t have one, no worries. CDM offers a fiberglass one. If you do happen to damage a grille or fender be it on the trail or in the office parking lot, you can order individual replacement panels.

Clearance

While this kit does widen the front of the Wrangler a bit, it still preserves the large factory wheelwells. This JK is fit with a four-inch suspension lift and 37x12.50R18 Nitto Trail Grapplers mounted on 18-inch Red Dirt Road wheels. Also, worth noting is that this system will work with a number of aftermarket fender flares since it retains the OE sheetmetal fenders. This customer opted for CDM’s fiberglass ones to finish off the classic look.

Bumpers

To work with the conversion, CDM offers a range of front bumper options. This particular CDM bumper shown is a steel winch-ready version. There are also rear bumper options for those looking to match up the look out back.  

Spot On

There’s no doubt that this conversion is pretty spot-on when compared to the real deal. We’re big fans of the classic full-size Jeep Wagoneer and love the idea of this conversion on a stock JK. Toss on a little wood trim on the side with a set of CDM classic series bumpers and you have the classic Wagoneer look with all the modern conveniences.

Kit Thoughts

Given the grille opening is fairly wide and there’s a two-inch raised cowl at the back of the hood, one could argue that the JK Gladiator conversion does offer some cooling advantages over stock. Couple this with the fact that you’re pulling off a steel hood and replacing it with a fiberglass one, you are shaving a bit of weight. At the end of the day, you are really buying this for the retro look and that’s perfectly fine in our book. While we rarely cover cosmetic upgrades at Driving Line, the uniqueness and quality of this kit made it worth sharing.

It’s also worth mentioning that this conversion will be available for the 2020 Jeep Gladiator and JL Wrangler very soon.

Digging this retro look? You'll love the Trophy T.