Easy, tune-only horsepower continues with the LMM Duramax, the version of the 6.6L diesel V8 GM produced for its new body style (GMT900) ’07.5-’10 HD trucks. Like each generation of the Duramax that came before it, 500rwhp can be had with nothing more than a hot calibration uploaded to the ECM. Unfortunately, all the same roadblocks that exist for the ’06-’07 LBZ live on in the LMM platform—along with a lot of the same parts. Granted, the ECM and emissions equipment are different, but the same basic engine architecture is the same. The connecting rods and pistons are identical, and the only difference in the cylinder heads is that they were treated to slight improvements in coolant flow.

In broken-record fashion, however, the LMM’s 500rwhp tune-only capability can’t be reliably enjoyed with the factory Allison transmission behind it. Once again, the pay-to-play phrase applies in that you have to build the six-speed automatic to handle more power (or rather the 950 to 1,000 lb-ft of torque that a 500rwhp truck makes) before you can savor it. From there, freeing up exhaust and intake flow through the install of a larger downpipe and 3-inch Y-bridge helps cool off the engine while adding a few ponies. Somewhere around the 530rwhp mark, the LMM is out of turbo, and soon after that it’s also in need of a larger displacement CP3 and bigger injectors.

For more on the performance obstacles you’ll face with your LMM (as well as how to overcome them), keep reading.

Roadblock #1: Allison 1000

With the Duramax operating at factory power levels, the commercial-grade six-speed Allison 1000 automatic is hard to beat. But with as little as 120 additional horsepower stacked on top of it (an easy feat to pull off given the engine’s potent Bosch common-rail injection system), the Allison can incur damaged. The Allison’s torque converter and C3 clutches are known weak links with added power in the mix, not to mention it does not like being forced to shift fast.

The Goals of Any Allison Build: Improved Strength and Efficiency

If you’re after making high horsepower while running big wheels and tires, the factory Allison won’t last a week under a heavy right foot. To make sure yours lives, get it to a reputable Allison builder that can fortify it properly. Upgraded clutches, a properly-spec’d triple-disc torque converter, performance valve body and higher line pressure should all be part of an effective Allison build (along with a tuned TCM). And if you have plans to pursue big power, billet shafts, a billet P2 planet and C2 hub and a billet stator converter should all be considered.

Roadblock #2: Restrictive Downpipe

With the LLY, LBZ and LMM all essentially utilizing the same variable geometry turbocharger, the Garrett GT3788VA, it stands to reason that the same, restrictive downpipe is employed as well. Because the factory VGT sees plenty of heat with a 500rwhp-capable ECM tune, it pays to free things up on the exhaust side with a larger (non-ovaled) downpipe.

3-inch Downpipe

A true, 3-inch diameter downpipe can drop exhaust gas temperature (EGT) as much as 150 degrees F on an LMM. And when you add thermal wrap, such as what Diamond Eye Performance and ProFab Performance do with their product, exhaust gases within the downpipe are kept hotter (for improved scavenging) while radiant heat at the back of the engine is decreased.

Roadblock #3: Choked-Down & Leak-Prone Y-Bridge

Like the LBZ, many LMM owners consider upgrading away from the small-ish factory Y-bridge (the Y-shaped piece that feeds the cylinder heads) for a little something extra before they spring for a larger turbo. To be clear, you can make plenty of power on the factory Y-bridge, but if you’re seeing considerably more boost than stock the two-piece OEM version could split or blow apart at any time.

3-inch Diameter, 1-Piece Y-Bridge

For optimum flow, 3-inch diameter Y-bridge kits with one-piece or bolt-together two-piece designs are common upgrades among Duramax owners. The air volume increase that comes from running a larger Y-bridge provides a decent bump in top-end power (20 to 30 hp), most noticeable above 2,500 rpm. Quality Y-bridge systems are available from Screamin’ Diesel Performance, Wehrli Custom Fabrication, ProFab Performance and Pusher Intakes, with optional 3-inch diameter hot-side and cold-side intercooler also available to further open up the intake tract.

Roadblock #4: Stock Turbo, Injectors and CP3

Lifting your LMM out of the 500 to 530rwhp range is going to call for a larger turbo—and injector and CP3 upgrades if you want to see more worthwhile gains. We have to hand it to the stock Garrett GT3788VA though. It’s a tough turbo that can support gains in excess of 200rwhp without throwing in the towel, even though it’s moving a ton of hot air at this point, is on the verge of overspeeding and waved goodbye to its efficiency range long ago.

Drop-In VGT Upgrade

To wring every last drop of power out of the factory 26,000-psi injection system, your money should be invested in a drop-in turbo with a 63 to 68mm compressor wheel and an upgraded turbine wheel (Fleece Performance Engineering’s 63mm Cheetah VGT is shown here). By sticking with a factory-based charger, the stock turbo pedestal, intake piping and downpipe can all be retained, but with more horsepower being gleaned. Once you’re ready to break into 600rwhp territory, it’ll be time to install larger nozzle injectors and a stroker or dual CP3 pumps.

Roadblock #5: Head Bolts & Pistons

Disclaimer: before you dive into injector and CP3 upgrades it will behoove you to address the factory head bolts. Not unlike any other Duramax engine, blown head gaskets can occur after prolonged exposure to 40-psi of boost or more, not to mention the fact that variable geometry turbos create more drive pressure than fixed geometry units (and excessive drive pressure can also blow head gaskets). On top of that, the LMM shares the same pistons as the LBZ, which means you’re on borrowed time when making 650rwhp, especially in a street-driven application.

ARP Head Studs and Conservative Horsepower

Just because LBZ’s and LMM’s are known to crack pistons at 650rwhp (give or take) doesn’t mean you can’t play with fire a bit, or go ahead and upgrade the turbo, injectors and CP3—so long as you tune the engine conservatively. Loads of LMM owners have gone the safe-tuning route and enjoyed their setups for years. Just make sure you grab some ARP head studs and that your EFI Live guru knows to keep you out of the danger zone (i.e. limit torque at low rpm torque).

Building power on a budget? Check out these horsepower recipes to help bring your ’07.5-’10 Duramax up to speed.

Building trucks is more than a hobby for some people, to those people, it's a lifestyle. For Art Ramirez, he has been working on vehicles his entire life. He and his brother, Manny took influence at a young age from their father. Doing work in the garage, cleaning their dirty nails and removing grease in their hair was a normal act while growing up. When they came of age, these boys were good to go as they had the skills to fix up something for themselves that would make an impact on the streets.

Keeping it in the Family

During the years that followed, Art owned many kickass classics including a few Impalas and even a ’51 Chevy pickup. As his son Maurice became older, Art wanted to share the knowledge and experience of working on vehicles. As a way to get him more involved, Art snagged up this ’59 Chevy that was a run-of-the-mill pickup. It was sent over to Manny’s garage where the crew would wrench during many late nights, share good food and even more great times. Art describes the experience as a learning curve for him and his son as they both enjoyed their fair share of smashed knuckles and cuss words along the way.

Slammed Stance

While striving to not only make a clean truck that can grab attention at shows, Art decided he wanted the ’59 to sit really low. To help with this and modernize the front end, an independent front clip from a ’78 Plymouth Volare was salvaged and set in place along with a set of 2-inch drop spindles. In the rear, a No Limit Engineering Fatbar 4-link with pan hard bar holds an 8-inch Ford rearend in place.

Modern Traction

To help get the truck down, Slam Specialties RE-7 airbags were employed on all four corners. This allows it to tuck a set of 20x8.5 and 22x10 Intro Custom Radicalli billet wheels with245/35R20 and 265/40R20 Nitto NT555 tires. Those Nitto tires were the perfect choice for the truck as they provide excellent traction with a healthy extended lifespan.

Breathing New Life

Art had a vision in his head of the final product of this truck and knew the old and tired drivetrain would no longer cut it. He had a Chevy V-8 engine rebuilt to 355-cubic inches and added a host of performance goodies to make it run like a beast. Art backed up this power with a rebuilt 700R4 transmission that not only holds up to the performance but also has an overdrive gear to keep RPMs low at cruising speed. The transmission is also equipped with a 2000-stall torque converter and moves the power to the rear end with use of a custom-made drive shaft.

Getting the Smooth Look

While the truck was taking shape, the exterior styling needed a bit of an overhaul itself. First of all, the front grille was replaced with a new unit. Then, the body was massaged a bit and they shaved off the door handles and factory emblems. The bed was cleaned up, the posts were extended and tailgate was shaved, plus, a custom roll pan was attached.

Orange Appeal

As far as paint was concerned, Art had something bright in mind and settled on an orange color for several reasons. Since, he grew up and lives in Orange County, his wife grew up in the City of Orange and kids did as well, Art choose to paint it Grabber Orange. The orange appeal didn’t stop there either as his wife use to live on Orange Street and his grandchild is being raised in Orange. That’s a lot of coincidences pertaining to orange and this color only seemed fitting for the truck.

Inner Beauty

Though the outside of the truck received its fair share of metal work and paint, some upgrades transpired to the interior as well. This is apparent on the dash as it was shaved and painted like the body. The gauge panel was also recessed, and a Flaming River steering column was attached to it. Underneath the dash is a custom center console with stereo head unit, controls for Vintage Air unit and power window switches. A Glide Engineering bench seat was set inside while new carpet was laid down and everything else was covered in tan and sand-colored leather and vinyl.

The Never-ending Story

After several years of down time and many days spent with little to no sleep, Art was finally able to create a slick truck that pays homage to his roots. With the sacrifices made to get it done, we are surprised that he is still married. Art told us that he thinks it's funny that instead of his wife, Jenny asking “are we there yet” she was always asking “are you done yet.” Art simply replied by saying “honey it’s never done.”

Click here to see the Jay10: A Dazed and Confused customized '68 Chevy pickup truck.

 So, you’ve gone from camping to glamping by upgrading from a tent to an off-road trailer. As you find your groove in day-to-day life on the road, personalized tweaks and improvements to your setup will make even the most mundane tasks more manageable. Before you hit the trails for your latest adventure, consider the following five add-ons to make your trip even more easy-going.

1. No Matter the Weather: Awnings

Awnings are popular for a reason. There’s nothing quite like sitting under one while watching a thunderstorm pass by, especially when it’s raining heavily enough for water to flow between your toes. It's also comforting to have a dedicated place to hide from the hot sun’s heat. Certain awnings can even double as a fully enclosed hang out space with optional walls or mosquito netting, depending on which setup you choose.

After trying a standard single panel awning, and then tripping over all the poles and tie-down ropes on a 180-degree awning, I finally discovered Overland Vehicle Systems’ 270-degree masterpiece. The wrap-around effect provides the most sheltered space. I’ve only used it a handful of times, but I’m ecstatic with it so far: poles and tie-downs are optional and available for high-wind areas. This batwing-style shelter simply swings out for set-up and folds inward for easy packing. Debating whether or not to set up the awning during quick stops is no longer a question—I let it all hang out all the time.

2. Everything has its Place: Custom Storage

Use your space to its full potential with custom storage and pull-out shelves. A steel frame linked to rollers and locking brackets allows a heavy cooler to remain in the trailer instead of heave-hoeing it in and out every time a beverage is desired.

Saving space can be as simple as adding a paper towel holder or a magnetic bar to hold utensils or spice tins. A pull-out cutting board can double as extra table space. Hanging baskets and hooks provide a place for scrub brushes to dry or mugs to hang.

Adding a larger trailer tongue box expands storage space exponentially. Anything from dual batteries, a pair of camp chairs, a roll-up table, recovery gear, and ground mats will fit. The better you are at Tetris, the more it’ll carry. A side exterior cabinet made out of a waterproof case such as a Pelican is the perfect place to store tools, first aid kits, or even your shower gear. 

3. Good Clean Fun: Road Shower

Let’s face it: social media tends to glorify overlanding life. Daily chores and personal hygiene techniques are rarely portrayed amongst the breathtaking photos of vast landscapes and sunset selfies. Fortunately, there’s not an app that captures the ripened aroma of the person manning the camera, yet. But, if that time comes, several products exist to help keep the stink out.

A road shower or similar pressurized water caddy not only provides a way to rinse your nether regions; it will also make doing the dishes a little more exciting. As a bonus, spraying mud off the trailer and sand off your feet keeps your camper’s interior cleaner. If it’s a tad nippy out and cold showers aren’t your thing, a portable propane-powered water heater will make a quick rinse feel much less shocking.

Overnighting in populated places, like a motorsports photographer who camps trackside, for instance, could result in the need for a shower stall. Pop-up privacy tents are an inexpensive way to hide your unmentionables, but airing them out and folding them up is a pain. (Have you ever had a wet fold-up tent spring back at you for making a wrong fold? Ugh.) Overland Vehicle Systems and a few other companies offer a solution that mounts to a roof rack. If you’re a crafty camper, you might consider a DIY version. 

4. Powered by Sunshine: Solar Panels

If you’re planning to go off the grid for an extended period, installing a solar panel will keep the lights on. Carrying additional batteries will be necessary, so this is where the aforementioned trailer tongue box comes into play. Sacrificing the extra space is well worth it, and I must say, the free-flowing power makes a great charging station for photographers and automotive journalists on the go.

Having free-flowing power opens up a multitude of other ways to spend more money. An exterior fan encourages airflow and prevents condensation within the cabin, and if the batteries are charged, it’ll easily run through the night. Wiring in LED lights will reduce your disposable battery needs. Drip coffee on a timer will give you a pleasant awakening, and an electric fridge/freezer will save space with the lack of ice needed to keep food cool. A plug-in heater can be substituted for one powered by propane. Heck, if you really want to get your glamp on, a tiny flat panel TV and speakers should do the trick. Just don’t camp in Alaska during the winter.

5. Smooth Trailering: Articulating Trailer Hitch

An articulating trailer hitch may not sound like the most exciting upgrade, but it’ll make your towing life a whole lot easier. The best-built hitches will provide a tight, close-fitting connection that eliminates the jaw-clenching thunk-and-jerk action felt with some conventional hitches.

Full 360-degrees of rotation paired with left-to-right and up-and-down maneuverability will have you rolling up intimidating rocky inclines and rounding tight tree-filled corners with confidence.

Are you feeling glamped out? Get back to the basics with this list of overland essentials that you shouldn’t hit the road without. 

The idea of engine swaps in classic cars is as old as the first hot rodder who decided they wanted big speed in a package that simply wasn't available from the factory. There are of course many different reasons to stuff a newer replacement motor under the hood of an older model—ranging from more power, to improved mpgs, to reliability—but the common thread linking almost every one of these projects is the desire to keep enjoying a classic vehicle in a constantly changing world.

Enter the EV swap. The electrification of classic cars has been gathering steam over the course of the past decade or so as greater numbers of aftermarket builders figure out how to reduce the cost of battery technology and provide electric motors that nicely balance drivability with range-per-charge.

One of the most intriguing trends in electrifying vintage vehicles has been to design drivetrains that closely resemble the gas-powered engines they are replacing—and then make them virtually 'plug and play' in terms of how they install into a wide range of popular platforms. In fact, some of these new contenders are near dead ringers for their internal combustion cousins, to the point where it would take more than a casual glance with the hood open to know that gasoline had been banished from the equation.

Do electrified classics that look just like the original deal represent the wave of the future for the collector car hobby? Let's look at a trio of EV swap options that put serious effort into blurring the line between gas engines and electrons.

Electric GT

One of the most established players in the classic EV space is Electric GT, which has been operating out of California since 2013. It was one of the first companies to introduce the concept of an electric 'crate engine,' which is a term used in the industry to describe a single housing that contains not just an electric motor, but also the batteries, power management systems, and all other vehicle features (cooling, heating, DC power) required for a successful transplant.

Electric GT systems mimic a traditional v-style engine block in terms of layout, with four caps on top of where the valve covers would typically be found, and a bespoke valley cover, all of which conceals its electric inner workings.

Unlike a mass-produced electric car, the Electric GT 'GTE Motor Block' replaces the traditional gas engine under the hood and can be bolted to existing transmissions. Interestingly, the GTE system is intended to work specifically with manual gearboxes, and while a clutch pedal isn't required when pulling away from a stop the rest of the time it acts much like a regular shift-it-yourself unit (except it won't blow up at redline if you simply leave it in gear and cruise around).

Battery range for a typical installation is between 70 and 150 miles per charge, depending on vehicle weight, and the company even offers extended range batteries that can be installed alongside the GTE block. The standard GTE-253 kit provides 153 horses and 244 lb-ft of torque, but the characteristics of its instant-on torque application make driving it feel like you're behind the wheel of a gas engine with about twice that power. It's not cheap to pick up the GTE package—you're looking at a price tag starting in the low-$30k range—but it's an all-inclusive way to go electric without cutting up your classic.

Webb Motorworks

Webb Motorworks spent much of 2019 developing what it calls the E-Crate SBC. This electric drive system fits entirely inside a small block Chevrolet casting. In fact, from the outside it's quite difficult to tell that you're looking at a complete electric motor solution that conceals its electric innards inside one of the most popular gas engine designs of all time.

Webb already had experience building unusual engine conversions, including 16-cylinder and 12-cylinder flatheads as well as flathead conversions for the regular SBC. The E-Crate SBC makes use of a new small block casing made to Chevrolet specifications, which can then be bolted up to factory motor mounts, and even maintains the headers/heads/intake/accessories look of a gas engine.

Also included with the E-Crate is a lithium-ion battery pack and output of between 250 to 400 lb-ft of torque from its electric motor. Like the Electric GT setup, it can be bolted to a manual transmission. Webb Motorworks intends to begin offering full kits for the E-Crate later in 2020.

General Motors

With so much invested in electric cars like the Volt and the Bolt, it's perhaps no surprise that GM has also dipped its toe into the classic car EV scene. Debuting at SEMA in 2019, General Motors offered its own take on the electric crate motor inside its 'E-10' 1962 Chevrolet pickup concept.

The E-10 setup has yet to become available for aftermarket builders, but each of its components is sourced from the company's existing parts bin. A pair of electric motors, mounted under the hood, provide 450 horses and 470 lb-ft of torque. This is a big step up over the other EV classic car conversions on our list, and it's made possible by the use of the pickup's cargo bed for a large battery pack (which is hidden under a tonneau cover).

Of the three, the E-10 with its 'eCrate' setup looks the least like it has a traditional engine between the front fenders, although care has been taken to preserve the v-shape beloved by hot-rodders. Still, by leveraging the extra cargo capacity of a pickup platform to improve both power and range, GM's entry into the electric classic car world illustrates how creative EV installations can get.

Want to learn more about the GM eCrate? Check out this feature on the Chevrolet E-10 Concept.

In the 1960s Ford's Mustang changed the performance car game not just for itself but also its competition. As the cool new kid, it pressured all the other kids to up their game if they wanted to stay popular. Among those kids was Chevrolet whose own compact sport offering, the Corvair, couldn't keep pace. Its rear-engine design wasn't winning over consumers and bad publicity from Ralph Nader's famous book, Unsafe at Any Speed, wasn't exactly helpful, either. Mustang sales were through the roof. And Chevy needed a new design to compete.

Enter the Camaro. Sporting a conventional rear-drive, front-engine design like its Ford counterpart, the new car also worked with a variety of engines, too. It debuted in 1966 for the 1967 model year. The first iteration of the Camaro was produced until the 1969 model year. Among the variants offered was the one seen here: the Camaro SS (Super Sport). Owner Abraham Islas not only restored it, he may have added a few modern upgrades in the process. And by “may” I mean, “Oh, yeah. He damn sure did.” Even with a car this cool, 50 years of technological advancement can make it even better.

Abraham's love of the Camaro isn't a one-night stand; it's lifelong. “As I was growing up in the `90’s I always saw my godfather Teo Escalante driving his black `67 Camaro, El Cuervo/The Raven. He'd drag race it and most of the time he would take first place,” Abraham told me. “Since then I fell in love with the first gen Camaros. I always loved the looks and curves of the `67 and `68 more than the 69 Camaro.” He actually bought this `68 from his godfather. It was just a shell of its former glory then but together they've turned it into this beauty.

The goal was a classic car with badass looks but with the heart and technology of modern muscle. Abraham wanted to drive without the worries that come with some straightforward restoration projects. Knowing he was driving a reliable car meant being able to take long trips, like the one he and his wife took to Holley LSFest West in 2019. He and his wife took a four hour trip in the Camaro from Palm Springs to Las Vegas without incident so obviously he and his godfather succeeded.

Seeing as how he started with an empty shell, Abraham's dream Camaro isn't powered by one of the 350 cubic inch (5.7 L) or 396-inch (6.5 L) V8's the car was originally designed for. His car packs a GM L92 6.2-liter Vortech powerplant instead. A friend of his recommended Texas Speed & Performance: “I wanted to have enough power to be competitive at drag racing with a naturally aspirated engine. I also knew that I was probably going to upgrade later on to a single turbo kit. Texas Speed & Performance gave me the parts I needed to be able to upgrade later without having to change parts and spend more money.” Abraham powered up his Vortech engine with Texas Speed & Performance's LS3 Stage 1 supercharged camshaft, polished .660-inch dual valve springs, 7.40 chromoly pushrod, and VVT delete kit. His mill also packs a K&N intake and ceramic coated long tuber headers to round out the power package (for now; there's a Vortech Supercharger in the car's near future). All of this adds up to 425 ponies and 450 lbs-ft of torque on 91 pump gas. It's transmitted to the rear wheels by way of a 4L65E transmission and a GM 12 bolt rear differential.

The power equation wasn't alone in the performance upgrade department, though. For as much as Abraham finds old cars with stock suspensions to be comfy, they also feel better suited to deep sea fishing than drag racing to him. In other words, he doesn't like cars that handle like boats. Having the best possible grip on the street or strip was a must. Being able to make quick turns without the tires leaving the ground was pretty important to him too. Chevy's original SS performance package helped with handling but the aftermarket gave Abraham what he needed to really dial in the chassis and suspension. Global West knows a thing or two about muscle car suspension and they got the nod for the upgrades. When the swap was all said and done, Abraham's Camaro SS got a complete front tubular arm kit (upper and lower), QA1 front double adjustable shocks with coilovers, and leaf springs with shocks out back. Now he can fine tune the handling to his driving.

Yet for as much as Abraham loves all that new power and agile handling, they aren't his favorite changes to his Camaro. Those would be the wheels and tires: “Those 20x12-inch wheels with Nitto NTO5R 315/35R20 on the back of the car make it look so beefy; just like a `68 Camaro should. And they also help with vehicle stability, avoiding sliding from side to side when you put the pedal to the metal. Since the early 2000’s when bigger wheels on cars were the hot item, I had a Nissan Altima with 20-inch wheels and Nitto tires. At that time I just cared about the wheels and the tire shop just happened to put Nitto’s on my car. Ever since then I noticed how good Nitto tires performed. When I started looking for the best wheels and tires to use for my `68 Camaro, I knew I was using Nitto’s. I started doing a little research and I really liked the Nitto INVO and NTO5R/NT05s. I chose the NTO5R/NT05 combo because I knew that I would eventually drag race the car and those were the best tires for increased traction at the dragstrip.” The SS runs on stylish, custom Torq Thrust American Racing wheels (20x 9-inch front, 20x 12-inch rear) shod in Nitto NTO5s in the front (275/35R20) and big NT05R 315/35R20 in the rear. Brake-wise, a Camaro Power disc brake conversion kit keeps all of that modern extra power in line as needed.

The old shell itself got some updating too. Restoring the exterior to its former glory would have been a good move but Abraham wanted more than that. Enter Underground Autowrkz in Indio, California. They laid down the Custom Red with White Pearl stripes that make his Camaro so easy on the eyes. Adding a 4-inch cowl induction hood didn't hurt its looks, either.

Abraham's Camaro also has an inner beauty to it too. Just open a door, look inside, and you'll see it. The custom dash and its Auto Meter instrumentation are pretty sweet but so are the Matrix Sport seats, B&M Quicksilver shifter, and Drive by Wire gas pedal that round Abraham's aesthetic vision for this car.

Which isn't to say Abraham's job is done here. So far he's digging the car for its intended mission: street driving but with everything it needs for the track, too. He doesn't feel like the job is done yet, though. In the world of custom cars, whoever does?

There's always some part or tweak in the back (or front) of your mind that would make your baby just a bit cooler or faster. In the case of Abraham's `68 dream Camaro, that means turbo power. We'd love to get the update when he's done. 

Click here to the Platinum Pro-tourer: a beautiful big-block powered 1969 Camaro RS/SS.

The LML Duramax left the factory packing 397 hp and 765 lb-ft of torque—but the new, more powerful horsepower and torque numbers weren’t the only changes made for the 2011 model year… This version of GM’s 6.6L common-rail diesel V8 deviates from all others in terms of its injection system. It’s still a high-pressure, common-rail arrangement sourced from Bosch, but the injectors are the quicker-firing piezoelectric units (vs. solenoid valve) and the high-pressure fuel pump (i.e. injection pump) is the CP4.2 rather than the tried and true CP3. And though the LML produced more power than any other Duramax that came before it, the CP4.2 would prove both a performance hinderance and a reliability concern. On top of that, the LML came with the most restrictive variable geometry turbo to ever grace a Duramax.

For ’11-’16 Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra HD’s, the first performance obstacle begins (once again) with the Allison transmission. It’s stronger than any rendition of the industrial-strength automatic that came before it, but for anything beyond 450rwhp (and presumably 900 lb-ft of torque at the wheels) it needs to be prepped to handle that added stress. Once the Allison is able to harness an all-out performance tune from your favorite calibrator, you can increase the chances of the CP4.2 living by adding an aftermarket lift pump. Then, and if you want to match the 530rwhp capability of ’01-’10 models, you’ll have to either convert to a CP3, upgrade to a stroker CP4.2 or run two pumps. Beyond that, it’s time to open up the exhaust system and then move on to a larger turbocharger.

The battle for squeezing more power out of your LML Duramax begins here.

Roadblock #1: Allison

The Allison was revised for the 2011 model year specifically for use behind the 765 lb-ft of torque the LML Duramax produces. The MW7 rendition of the Allison 1000 entails a larger output shaft, revamped pump, a different converter and valve body and updated clutches. In stock form, it was the strongest Allison built up to that time and it can handle some abuse, but a lack of line pressure during prolonged wide-open throttle operation with extra power in the mix (i.e. tuning) will eventually lead to irreparable damage.

Build the Allison Around the Way You Plan To Use Your Truck

Although a good TCM tune or the ability to run higher line pressure by way of a switch can make a factory ’11-’16 Allison live a while, for anything beyond 450rwhp you better get it built if you want longevity and peace of mind. When in the market for a performance Allison build (or any transmission build for that matter), always opt for an overbuilt unit rather than one that will live on the edge. For example, if you plan to push things past 700rwhp and drag race or sled pull your truck at some point, it’s best to start with a unit that can handle your future power goal. This way, you’re not paying twice.

Roadblock #2: No Factory Lift Pump

Surprise, surprise, GM kept with its theme of not feeding its injection pump with an electric lift pump with the LML Duramax (even though Bosch recommended it include one to feed the CP4.2). Unlike with the CP3-equipped engines built prior to the LML, the CP4.2 doesn’t tolerate a lack of fuel pressure and especially air very well—but the chances of that very thing occurring increases when aggressive ECM tuning is brought into the mix. By comparison, Ford’s 6.7L Power Stroke (an engine also fitted with the CP4.2) came from the factory with an electric lift pump supplying the CP4.2 approximately 55-psi.

Aftermarket Lift Pump

Because the CP4.2 doesn’t tolerate air or fuel inconsistencies nearly as well as the CP3 did, an aftermarket lift pump should be one of the first upgrades performed on any LML Duramax. Similar to building the Allison transmission, it won’t necessarily add any power to your bottom line, but it will keep the CP4.2 reliable while you’re benefitting from 500rwhp tuning. Comprehensive aftermarket fuel systems like this one offered by FASS (Fuel Air Separation System) ensure the fuel leaving the tank is free of contaminants and air. The system’s electric lift pump also comes preset to deliver the correct amount of supply pressure to the CP4.2.

Roadblock #3: Stock CP4.2

With the CP4.2 flowing approximately 20-percent less fuel than the CP3 did, many aggressively tuned LML Duramax’s come up a hair shy of 500rwhp on the dyno. So even though the CP4.2 produces a higher overall injection pressure of 29,000 to 30,000 psi (vs. 26,000 psi on ’06-’10 Duramax engines), it’s not enough volume to support as much horsepower when the injectors are told to open up sooner and stay open longer (via tuning).

CP3 Conversion, Stroker CP4.2 or Dual Pumps

To make up for the displacement disadvantage of the CP4.2, all of the above aftermarket options are on the table and you need to choose one to take things to the next level. It is noteworthy that, to date, no aftermarket CP4.2’s have addressed this pump’s inherent problem of the pistons turning within their bores (a very destructive scenario). On the plus side, the piezoelectric injectors in the LML can support more horsepower, pound-for-pound, than the ’01-’10 solenoid valve injectors can, so once you find more high-pressure fuel volume (and air in the form of a bigger turbo) the factory injectors can easily support more than 600rwhp.

Roadblock #4: Crushed & Restrictive Downpipe

The common theme of leaving the factory with a restrictive, crushed downpipe wasn’t lost on the LML Duramax. It’s just as big of a choke point in exhaust flow as the versions found on the LLY, LBZ and LMM engines were. Two different downpipes were employed on the LML. On earlier, ’11-‘15 models, the downpipe uses a V-band connection at the turbo. On later, ’15.5-’16 model engines, the downpipe attaches to the turbo via a 3-bolt flange. It’s important to know which one you have when ordering a much needed, higher-flowing aftermarket replacement.

High-Flow, 3-Inch Downpipe

Upgrading your LML’s downpipe might not unlock huge power, but it can cool off exhaust gas temperature (EGT) significantly, decreasing EGT by as much as 150 degrees F in some cases. MBRP’s 3-inch, pre-wrapped version (shown) provides a 20-percent improvement in exhaust flow over stock, along with gains as high as 21 hp and 24 lb-ft of torque. It’s also a direct replacement for the factory, crushed piece, which is to say it will work with both the factory turbocharger as well as any factory-based aftermarket turbo.

Roadblock #5: Factory Turbo

Unfortunately for horsepower lovers, the LML came with the most restrictive Garrett VGT offered on a Duramax. While its 11-blade 60.6mm inducer compressor wheel is sufficient enough to get you into 500rwhp territory on tuning alone, the turbine vane height on the exhaust side is a significant limiter. The vanes measure just 11.2mm in height (vs. 15mm on the LLY turbo), not ideal for top-end power. It’s apparent the turbo was spec’d to shine at lower rpm (hence the engine’s big torque number) and use its restrictiveness to its advantage in terms of the LML’s new exhaust brake function.

Drop-In Replacement VGT

To open up airflow and capitalize on the potency of the factory injectors, a larger drop-in VGT is a simple, cost-effective way to push your LML beyond 600rwhp. Both the Cheetah 63mm from Fleece Performance Engineering and the Stealth 64 from DuramaxTuner.com can support 650rwhp or more. The fact that they’re based on the stock turbo platform makes them a direct, high-flow replacement which will work seamlessly with your existing intake piping and downpipe.

Looking for an OEM-quality, whisper-quiet lift pump that can support 800 hp? Check out the PowerFlo in-tank lift pump.

Ah yes, Mitsubishi. In case you didn't know, the Japanese automaker is still around today, offering a selection of crossover SUVs and a couple of cheap economy cars that aren’t especially competitive or remarkable.

But it wasn’t always this way. This is the brand that brought the world iconic enthusiast vehicles like Lancer Evolution, 3000GT VR4 and a series of ultra-rugged 4x4s that were beloved across the planet.

Here in the US though, the most popular high performance Mitsubishi may have been the Eclipse. Along with its close siblings the Eagle Talon and Plymouth Laser. For a period these high performance, turbocharged sport compacts offered a level of affordable performance that was once unrivaled but they've become nearly forgotten today.

Commonly known as the “DSM” among enthusiasts, this trio of cars were built as part of the long-running joint venture between Mitsubishi and Chrysler known as Diamond Star Motors.

First introduced for the 1990 model year the Eclipse and its Chrysler counterparts could be had with a turbocharged 2.0 liter four cylinder 4G63 engine that made up to 195 horsepower. This might not sound like much, but remember at the time a V8 Mustang GT was only making 225 horsepower.

Better yet, these cars could be had with all-wheel-drive which allowed them to take full advantage of their turbocharged power. 0-60 times were in the high six second range—again a scorching figure for an affordable car in the early ‘90s.

The second generation of the “DSM” debuted for the 1995 model year with the Plymouth Laser dropped from the trio: Both the Eclipse and the Talon had dramatically restyled bodies. In 1997 an open top Spyder version of the Eclipse was added to the lineup.

The turbocharged 4G63 engine continued to be the top the motor, now making 205 horsepower in stock form and available in both FWD and AWD configurations.

And while they were potent out of the box, the turbocharged DSM cars truly came into their own at the hands of tuners. While some would outfit aggressive body kits and other flashy mods, others took advantage of the platform to build some brutally quick street cars.

To see why they were such a hit, you have to remember that cars like the Subaru WRX and Mitsubishi’s own Evolution were not sold in the US at the time, making the DSM a popular choice for those looking for a cheap, AWD turbo power.

For those on a budget, it was hard to beat a used DSM when it came to bang for the buck. A few simple mods and a bit more boost and you could have a car that could embarrass some truly high end machinery, sometimes for just a few thousand bucks total.

And it’s likely because of this reputation for cheap speed that decent examples of the first and second gen DSM cars are so hard to find today. Back in the day they were cheap and seen as disposable and many were beaten out of existence. 

Perhaps the peak cultural relevance of the DSM came in the original The Fast & The Furious when Paul Walker’s character drove a neon green second generation Eclipse in first half of the movie. It’s easily one of the most recognizable cars of the franchise.

By 2000 the Eagle brand no longer existed and the heavier, softer third gen Eclipse lost its turbocharged engine in favor of a V6. The model would be discontinued in 2011 before Mitsubishi brought back the name and stuck it on a crossover SUV a couple years ago.

Despite a well-earned reputation as being one of the great tuner cars of the 1990s and early 2000s, the Eclipse and its DSM counterparts haven’t enjoyed the same renaissance and appreciation of other Japanese performance cars of the era.

As cars from the 1990s continue to rise in price and popularity, it will be interesting to see if these once legendary tuner cars will become loved in the way of the Toyota Supra or Mazda RX-7.

Whatever the case, for anyone who was into sport compact cars in the late ‘90s and early 2000s the letters “DSM” will always bring back fond memories.

And if you want to hear about another turbocharged AWD machine from two different brands, check out our look at the Saab 92X.

Inspired by Marvel’s Black Panther movie, Atlanta-based custom shop FF8 Customs decided to give their 2016 Camaro SS the full Wakanda treatment. Specializing in late model Mopar, Ford and Chevrolet customizations, the husband and wife veteran-owned shop used the Camaro to hone their custom building skills.

When the sixth generation Camaro was released, owner Jay believed that the muscle car resembled a pouncing cat, giving him the idea to run with the theme. 

The exterior features a total of four different vinyl wraps including satin metallic purple, dry carbon black, Kryptec Typhon, and black reflective. All over the car, details were subtly laid underneath the vinyl to create embossed designs. 

The “pouncing cat” stance is made possible by an Airlift Performance 3P Management system which drops the 2016 Camaro SS over the Illusion Purple Rosso Icon wheels. Nitto Tires make sure the power makes it to the ground, with 255/35/20 Nitto NT555 G2 tires up front and huge, sticky 305/35/20 Nitto NT555R D.O.T. compliant drag radial tires in the rear. Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors work with the OEM brakes to bring the Camaro to a stop. 

To compliment the wild look of the vinyl wrap job, FF8 Customs has added a lot to separate the Chevy from its stock look. Morimoto XB LED headlights and taillight assemblies replaced the factory units to add an even more aggressive look while also increasing lumen output. 

Pieces from the Camaro ZL1 such as the hood and dive planes utilize OEM options that blend well with the aftermarket pieces. FF8 designed their own ground effects for the car, but utilize a Duraflex wide-body spoiler on the rear. 

Although FF8 has kept the Camaro’s engine relatively stock, a Cold Air Inductions intake was added to get fresh, cool air into the V8 engine. An E85 Flex Fuel kit from Lethal Garage insures that the motor can take advantage of the higher octane fuel. A Mishimoto catch can defends the intercooler & intake from blow-by. 

Jay says that reception of the car has been amazing. The Black Panther Camaro has been featured on NBC’s 4th season of their Caffeine and Octane television show. He says that the car will continue to change and evolve as he looks to add different services to his business. 

One thing is for certain though, the Black Panther theme will live on. Wakanda forever!

Love lowered muscle cars? Click here to see the Killer Bee: a slammed Dodge Challenger on airbags.

If there was ever something that was born out of absolute necessity it was the mud-terrain tire. Despite huge leaps in automotive technology over the past hundred years, the one thing that can stop even the most powerful and advanced vehicle on the planet quite literally in its tracks is mud. This is why the invention of the mud-terrain tire was so important and remains so today. But, what exactly is a mud-terrain tire?

The original mud-terrain tire wasn’t much more than a slightly refined tractor tire. With little emphasis on road comfort, the tires had substantial spacing between the lugs. The tread pattern mimicked what is still used on farm tractors across America today. The concept was simple—create a tire with large spacing between deep tread blocks so the tire could easily clear out debris with minimal tire speed.

These tires would primarily use a bias-ply construction. This is where multiple ply layers are set at opposing angles, which stretch from bead-bundle to bead-bundle. While originally thought to be stronger off-road, the bias tires were very heavy and lacked stability compared to a given radial. In fact, the early bias-ply versions of the mud-terrain tire did a rather good job of painting a extremely unflattering picture of for truck owners for many years. Still to this day when people think of a mud-terrain tire, they often associate it with loud, rough riding, and something not suited for a daily driver.

Thankfully, the evolution of the mud terrain has been a significant one. Instead of bias-ply, most modern mud terrains are of a radial construction. This helped significantly with on-road ride quality and stability. As tread design and rubber compounds have continued to improve, we are now in an era where using a mud-terrain tire for a daily driven vehicle is extremely common. To dive deeper into the modern mud-terrain radial, we’re taking a closer look at one of the most widely sold and used in the light truck market: the Nitto Trail Grappler.  

Ejection!

A basic unit of measure with any mud-terrain tire is how quickly it can self-clean. Mud often requires momentum to pass through, but that’s not always an option on the trail. This is why tread spacing is so critical for a mud-terrain tire. These large voids allow debris to eject as the tire rotates. The slower the speed at which this can be accomplished, the more in control you’ll remain of the vehicle.

The Modern Contender

The modern-day mud-terrain radial is nothing short of an engineering masterpiece. To create a tire that is durable enough to dig through the roughest terrain and remain smooth rolling on the highway is something off-road enthusiasts could only dream about decades ago. While there are many contenders on the market, few hit the mark like the Nitto Trail Grappler. Given it’s offered in a variety of sizes and wheel diameters, it’s an ideal specimen for our mud-terrain breakdown.

Tread Spacing

If we had to narrow down the one feature that separates a mud-terrain tire from all others, it would be the amount of spacing placed between the tread. Just as you would see on a common farm tractor, these wide voids also provide increased grip in the dirt at lower speeds. These large voids are also why mud-terrain tires have more road noise over an all-terrain tire that would traditionally have less gap between the tread.

Kickout Bars

Just like a rowdy bar patron gets kicked out of the pub, mud-terrain tires have their own way to get rid of the unwanted riffraff. Theses raised features shown here between the main lugs of the tire are what’s known as kickout bars. These are engineered to help clear debris that might otherwise get stuck between the treads of the tire. After all, a tire packed with mud isn’t going to get you far down the trail.

Sidewall Tread

One thing we’ve seen more of in recent years in regard to the mud terrain is the addition of sidewall tread. While not exclusive to the mud terrain, it’s definitely a more common attribute. Though it may look like a simple styling cue, sidewall tread can become an important part of the traction equation off-road. From deep ruts to dugout hillclimbs, the more lugs you have fighting for grip, the better.

Leading Edges

For a mud terrain to be the most effective off-road, you’ll need well-defined leading edges. These allow the tire to cut through thick mud as well as give you the extra grip you need in more extreme off-road scenarios. This is why we see competitors in the highest forms of off-road racing turn to mud-terrains as their go-to tire.

Load Rating

Every tire has a specific load rating that indicates how much weight that given tire can support at a specific PSI. It’s worth noting that not all mud-terrains are intended for heavy-weight trucks, and you’ll nee to make sure that your mud terrain can handle the weight requirements of your vehicle and potential hauling needs. The Trail Grappler is one of the few mud-terrain radials that meets and exceeds the load requirements for ¾- and 1-ton diesel trucks, making it especially popular in the diesel segment.

More All-Terrain Than All-Terrain?

With the evolution of the modern mud-terrain tire, the discrepancies between that and an all-terrain tire have narrowed greatly. We often joke that given all-terrain tires do well in everything except mud, a modern mud-terrain radial is truly more “all” terrain tire. In fact, we’ve tested some all-terrains that are just as loud on the road as a mud-terrain, leaving us to wonder what’s the point of going with the tamer tread if it’s going to offer the same amount of roar?

Life Expectancy

The one area that a mud-terrain tire can fall a little short is in life expectancy. As a general rule, you typically will not get as many miles out of one as you would an all-terrain tire. While we have personally witnessed Trail Grapplers with more than 50,000 miles under their belt, we wouldn’t bank on any mud-terrain outlasting an all-terrain tire.

Mud Grapplers

We can’t talk about mud tires without at least mentioning the grandfather of the Nitto Grappler line, the Mud Grappler. While mud is in its name, Nitto classifies this tire as an Extreme Terrain tire. The Mud Grappler pre-dates the Trail Grappler by sometime, and while it has plenty of confidence in every off-road terrain, it’s generally more reserved for dedicated off-road enthusiast that are willing to tolerate a bit more road noise in exchange for a no-holds-barred off-road tire.

Hybrid Terrain

We would be remiss if we didn’t at least mention the fastest growing light truck tire segment- the hybrid terrain. Like the category alludes, this line is meant to fill the void that rests between a traditional mud terrain and all-terrain tire. At the forefront of this tire revolution is the Nitto Ridge Grappler. It has all but reinvented the way we look at what a tire can be. While not as aggressive as the Trail Grappler, but far more menacing than the Terra Grappler G2, the Ridge Grappler mergers the needs and wants of people on all wheeling fronts. By offering large tread blocks with deeper and larger voids more typically found on a mud-terrain tire, the Ridge Grappler conquers muddy and rocky terrain in a way no all-terrain can touch. However, using a unique tread pattern and sipes throughout the tire, means it has the on-road comfort, performance, and longevity that is far more important to those needing to get the most out of their tire.

Torn between an All-Terrain and a Mud Terrain? Here’s what you need to know.

Not all weird car features make sense at first, but if you do a bit of digging into the circumstances surrounding their design, you can often discover the how and why of a vehicle's unusual equipment. Automakers hate to spend money on something unless they really have to, so even if it seems strange to you that feature made sense to at least a few executives working hard to build the best possible car for the budget they'd been allotted.

Which of the weirdest car features turned out to be the most necessary? Let's take a look at the wildest equipment ever fitted to a car that also qualifies as a 'must-have.'

5. The Lamborghini Countach's Periscope

Not many people get the chance to spend time behind the wheel of a Lamborghini Countach, but those who do are instantly made aware of just how claustrophobic the cabin can feel. Specifically, the Italian automaker's most famous model emphasizes form over function in almost every respect, and outward visibility is no exception.

To combat this problem, the Countach's designers implemented two radical features. The first? Scissor doors that opened upwards rather than outwards were there partly so that owners could see behind the coupe while reversing. The second? A periscope.

You're reading that right. The original prototype version of the Countach featured something called a 'periscopica,' which was installed on the first 150 examples to be built. The system included a hidden, roof-mounted viewing port that was intended to complement the tiny rear window fitted to the car. It allowed drivers to glance up to the car's ceiling and use an additional angled mirror that reflect the image presented by the periscopica's unfettered sightline.

Although the feature had been part of the LP 500 concept that presaged the Countach, the full system was never fully implemented in the production LP 400 model, as testers complained about having to take their eyes well off the road ahead to see what still amounted to only a smidgen of the landscape behind them. The glassed-in tunnel in the roof remained in the earliest examples, however, providing additional light and, if you craned your neck and cranked the rearview mirror, a periscope-like view behind the car. Today, these Periscopica cars commands serious dollars on the collector market—all for a feature that even Lamborghini thought was a little too outrageous to sell.

4. The Volkswagen Beetle's Spare Tire-Powered Windshield Washer

The original Volkswagen Beetle was intended to offer ultra-affordable basic transportation to the widest range of potential buyers. With that in mind, it's perhaps no surprise that VW did its best to cut costs wherever it could, while still offering the features it needed to be competitive at the low end.

The perfect example is Volkswagen's rather unusual method for keeping the windshield clean. Rather than go through the trouble and cost of designing and installing a pump for washer fluid, they instead created a unique valve that attached to both the front-mounted spare tire's valve stem and the washer fluid reservoir. The valve was designed to use the compressed air from the tire to shoot fluid at the windshield at the push of a button.

The Beetle's owner's manual asked drivers to keep the spare inflated to 43 psi at all times, and the valve was designed to keep psi inside the tire steady at a minimum of 26 psi, at which point you could no longer clean the windscreen. It's not the most elegant of systems, but it beats having to hand-pump the fluid, which was what VW asked Beetle drivers to do prior to the early 1960s. Porsche would later employ a similar system in the 914.

3. GM's Vacuum Ashtray Systems

The 1950s were full of all sorts of bizarre car equipment, but it's hard to find many of these weird features that were truly 'necessary.' Of the bunch, GM's experiment with vacuum ashtrays might be the most likely candidate for that particular title.

Wait a minute—how could a system that makes use of a vacuum to suck cigarette butts from the ashtray into a glassed-in container jar be anything other than a short-lived novelty? Think about it from the perspective of a convertible owner: rather than flicking a butt out the window and causing a grass fire, or having ashes sucked out of their trays and then deposited all over the interior by swirling winds with the top down, you can instead just dump your cigarette into a small silver funnel and never have to think about it again. At least, until it's time to empty the jar.

2. Mitsubishi's Twin-Stick Gearbox

Sometimes the word 'necessary' refers to decisions made due to very specific engineering choices that weren't completely thought through from the beginning. Witness Mitsubishi's Super Shift transmission system (also known as the 'Twin-Stick' when sold as a rebadged Dodge or Plymouth).

When building its first front-wheel drive car in the early 1970s (the Mirage), the company's designers elected to place the engine directly overtop the transmission to keep its package as compact as possible. This was problematic, given that Mitsubishi also decided to take a motor designed for a rear-wheel drive setup and simply install it horizontally.

The biggest issue? Its off-the-shelf transmission manual transmission was technically 'spinning' the wrong way when taking power down from the clutch, giving it multiple reverse gears and only a single forward gear.

By adding a second idle shaft, Mitsubishi was able to not only create a transfer case of sorts that transmitted power in the proper direction, but it was also able to 'split' gear ratios and offer eight forward speeds and two reverse speeds. Mitsubishi called one set of ratios 'Power' and the second 'Economy,' and the setup lasted in some markets all the way until 1990. 'Necessary?' Technically, yes. 'Useful?' You be the judge.

1. The Mercedes-Benz SLS's Explosive Door Bolts

Gullwing doors look cool, but from a crash safety perspective they're a bit of a nightmare. Not only are the doors expected to pull double duty in terms of meeting side-impact and roof crush requirements, but you're also going to have a really hard time opening them should you accidentally flip the vehicle upside down.

Historically, there have been a number of ways car companies have dealt with the latter issue—including glass that can be kicked out by contortionist occupants in the DeLorean DMC-12—but by far the wildest is found in the Mercedes-Benz SLS-Class. This near-supercar was outfitted with explosive bolts that are powerful enough to blow each door completely off of its hinges in the event of a roll-over.

Sure, you're still going to have to do a bit of work to push the doors out and away from the car and crawl to safety, but as far as car equipment goes this is one weird feature that might end up saving your life.

Looking for more strange car features? Check out this round-up of unusual safety gear that automakers have stuffed into vehicles over the last 100 years.

After a week of hard work, there are few things better for the soul than some time outdoors in nature. Social media has brought together so many adventuring enthusiasts that are eager to share their experiences and point friends to the best trails and best camping spots. Overlanding has exploded onto the scene as car enthusiasts blend aspects of spacial design, 4x4 performance, and camping into one exciting hobby. Traditional off-road performers from Toyota, Jeep, and Range Rover have skyrocketed in both desirability and price as more and more seek to hit the trails in capable rigs.

Parallel to this trend, however, has been a smaller scene for those that, for whatever reason, choose more non-conventional platforms. Although aiming for many of the same trails, these enthusiasts choose to start with AWD unibody crossover platforms. This “soft-roader” culture, or “crossover-landing” seeks to find value in these vehicles that are more typically seen in a Trader Joe’s parking lot than an off-road trail.

Although there are certainly reasons that a traditional 4x4 is the mainstay off-road, there’s no denying that a traditional body-on-frame 4x4 demands concessions in drivability for daily duty. Trail-ready tires and suspensions can make for a less than optimal on-road experience, while the MPGs can be abysmal for traditional platforms. Ask a Landcruiser owner about their fuel bill sometime. Again, these aren’t knocks against capable rigs, but these limitations have to be considered for the enthusiasts that need their vehicle to do more than just go off-road.

These AWD crossovers, however, offer a better daily ride, better mileage, and usually a lower cost to entry. So Monday through Friday, there are few concessions. For the weekend, with little to no modifications, these modern AWD systems allow for plenty of exploring, with expectations in check. A Subaru Forester is not the right build for rock crawling, but for someone who wants to reach a remote camping spot via rarely traveled trails or rutted park land roads, it could be the perfect choice.

When modifying a crossover, most enthusiasts are tackling three major areas: vehicle height, unibody protection, and a capable wheel/tire package. For most popular platforms, aftermarket manufacturers are offering spacer lifts that work with the OEM suspension to add 1-3” inches while maintaining stock camber and caster specifications. Aluminum skid plates and bash bars add protection to crucial components that may be more exposed than on a purpose built factory off-roader. Paired with an off-road style wheel, a tire like the Nitto Terra Grappler G2 works perfectly with AWD technology to provide on-road livability with off-road performance.

For many, choosing crossover-landing rather than a more popular rig for more traditional overlanding stems from a desire for enthusiasts to stick with what they know. Subaru owners largely invented this movement, taking their rally-bred builds and tweaking their priorities for off-road performance. For a Honda owner, moving from a Civic to a CRV or Passport build is a much easier leap than buying a completely different platform. VW owners can look forward to the new Atlas Basecamp, an interesting take on a factory-prepped soft-roader.

A cynic could certainly look at the soft-roader movement as an attempt for non-committed hipsters to cash in on the overland trend with dressed-up crossovers; and maybe that is the case for some. But 4x4 style has always been popular for on-road vehicles. It certainly didn’t start here. Optimistically, crossover-landing opens up adventuring to more people. Jeeps, 4Runners, Landcruisers, and Defenders will still have their opportunities to reach the most isolated places on Earth. There’s absolutely no doubt that an AWD-equipped CRV will run out of steam long before these legends. But for the weekend enthusiast, these rigs work, and if you find one on the trails, they may just surprise you with what the are truly capable of.

Ready to start your soft-roader build? Try starting with one of these capable crossovers. 

The 6.7L Cummins is a beast. From the factory—and depending on the model year—you get 350 to 400 hp, 650 lb-ft to 930 lb-ft of torque (1,000 lb-ft on ’19-newer models) and a variable geometry turbocharger that doubles as an exhaust brake right out of the box. Unfortunately, the Holset HE351VE turbo is restrictive in nature and is oftentimes unreliable, too. For added performance potential and ultimate durability, many ’07.5-newer Ram owners ditch the stock charger for a fixed geometry unit, usually an S300 or (more commonly) an S400 series unit from BorgWarner. However, in doing so they also give up the beloved and highly effective exhaust brake option, which relies on the factory turbo’s variable geometry functionality to also act like a turbo brake for added stopping power.

Luckily, the long-awaited exhaust brake system from Fleece Performance Engineering has arrived, and it’s changed the game completely. With it, you get braking performance that mirrors the factory exhaust brake’s impressive functionality, a plug-and-play wiring harness that actually uses the OEM VGT actuator connection point and you activate the exhaust brake using the factory button on your truck’s dash. No vacuum or air lines, air pumps or belts to install—this baby is 100-percent electronic. For a quick look at all the parts and pieces included in Fleece’s new exhaust brake, along with what it takes to install one on a fourth-gen Ram, keep scrolling.

An S400-Equipped Ram’s Best Friend

As a producer of comprehensive turbo systems that allow 6.7L Cummins owners to replace the factory Holset variable geometry turbo with a fixed geometry S400, Fleece Performance Engineering was very aware that its customers missed the factory exhaust brake option once it was gone. But, being the problem-solving type of company they are, they set out to bring exhaust brake functionality back to the table so customers could enjoy the added reliability and performance of an S400 while also being able to stop sooner. The exhaust brake and actuator assembly, wiring harness, S400 cast elbow, downpipe, V-band clamps, coolant lines and fittings are all included in Fleece’s system, which retails for $1,999.

Butterfly Valve

Just as conventional exhaust brake systems do, a butterfly valve is employed to control exhaust flow. Closing the butterfly creates restriction in the flow of exhaust leaving the turbocharger (i.e. back pressure), which acts as the braking force for the engine. The butterfly valve is positioned between the supplied cast elbow and downpipe during assembly. And thanks to Fleece’s exhaust brake being fully-electronic, there are no noisy air pumps, frozen air lines or all-day installation times to contend with. In fact, on most trucks its system can be installed in less than two hours.

Heavy-Duty Actuator

The butterfly valve in the exhaust brake assembly is opened and closed via this heavy duty actuator. The all-electronic, commercial-grade actuator features a high-torque brushless DC motor for precise operation. Its gear train is liquid-cooled for optimum longevity, is the reason Fleece includes cooling lines with the exhaust brake system and it’s also why you’ll have to drain all coolant before you get started with the exhaust brake install.

Pull the Fender Well Liner

It definitely pays to pull the passenger side inner fender well before you get too deep into the install. With this barrier out of the way you can reach the backside of the turbo, the coolant port you’ll need to access beneath the oil filter base and install the included coolant riser delete hose (required when you go from the factory, coolant-fed turbo to a charger that only needs oil). And because you’ll have to do a lot of work from up above, it’s also a good idea to pull the air intake assembly out of the way, too.

Cast Discharge Elbow

Designed to bolt directly to any standard S400 turbine housing with a 4-5/8-inch (od) V-band outlet flange, the cast discharge elbow should be attached to the aforementioned exhaust brake assembly prior to being connected to the turbo. Mocking up, clocking and then installing the two items as a single unit makes life much easier later on, when installation of the downpipe can warrant some re-orientation of this section of the system.

Second-Gen Exhaust Manifold

Ditching the factory turbocharger in favor if an S400 is referred to as a second-gen turbo swap. The nucleus in these kits is the use of a second-gen (’94-‘02) Cummins style exhaust manifold, with its outlet flange positioned centrally (and typically of the T4 divided type). Centrally locating the turbo creates equal flow to the turbine wheel, which makes the exhaust side much more efficient and leads to vastly improved drivability. In fact, most 6.7L Cummins owners notice very little difference in lag after switching from the factory Holset to a considerably larger S400. For comparison’s sake, the stock manifold is pictured on top of an aftermarket second-gen style version from Steed Speed above.

Cooling the Exhaust Brake

Because the actuator is liquid-cooled, the coolant supply originally intended for the factory VGT gets repurposed to feed this vital portion of the exhaust brake. The same coolant feed port on the block near the oil filter housing is utilized thanks to the 18mm to -6 AN male JIC adapter (and sealing washer) Fleece supplies. Then the included (and pre-cut) coolant rise delete hose and 3/8-inch coolant hose can be installed.

4-inch Downpipe

The supplied 4-inch diameter downpipe is made of stainless steel and bolts right up to any existing 4-inch aftermarket exhaust system. However, a 5x4-inch reducer pipe will be in store for trucks with 5-inch diameter exhaust systems. An extra set of hands is always helpful when installing (and then tweaking) a new aftermarket downpipe. The last thing you want when you’re finished with the install is a dreaded downpipe rub or excessive stress on any of its connection points.

Plug-and-Play

For seamless integration on the wiring side, the exhaust brake’s electrical connector plugs into the factory VGT connector. No calibrating is necessary to get the exhaust brake to function properly, it’s completely plug-and-play right out of the box. The CAN-based control system and heavy-duty actuator allows for split-second, confidence-inspiring braking responsiveness. As you might’ve guessed, this makes the exhaust brake button on the dash functional again. And once again you’re saving your truck and trailer brakes when moving heavy loads.

Modes of Operation

In full-on mode, the exhaust brake activates with 0-percent throttle at any vehicle speed over 10 mph—and prompts the quickest response time from the exhaust brake. In automatic mode, the exhaust brake will activate at any speed higher than 10 mph when the brake pedal is applied (and throttle is 0-percent). In cold-start, warm-up mode, the exhaust brake will partially close with the engine idling in order to bring coolant temp up faster (to 150 degrees F).

The factory turbo is just one of the performance roadblocks your 6.7L Cummins faces. Find out what else is holding you back here.

When the weather gets warmer, that should mean one thing for off-road enthusiasts: it's time to inspect your rig's tires to make sure that you're prepared for the coming season. Whether you pulling off a set of winters, or one of the lucky ones who gets to run their mudders all year long in a warmer climate, it's an excellent opportunity to take care of some of the regular maintenance your truck or SUV needs.

Your tires take a serious amount of abuse out on the trail, but they also face hazards on the pavement that can take their toll over the miles. What do you need to check for to make sure you can continue to rely on your off-road tires? We've put together these four tips to keep you safe, happy, and secure no matter what terrain you might encounter.

Sharp Edges, Sharp Eyes

Physical tire damage is always a risk when off-roading, and given that your rubber might be covered in dirt, mud, and other grim more often than not, it's not always easy to spot it. If you've been on the trail recently, you might have cut a tire on a rock or wash and not even noticed in the moment, which makes seasonal inspection that much more important.

A single sidewall cut might not seem like a big deal, but over time it can weaken the overall strength of a tire, and potentially lead to a blow-out. This can be accelerated if multiple cuts or gouges occur to the same tire—and since these can hide on both the inside and outside of a sidewall, you'll need to do more than take a casual look to verify that your rubber is in good shape.

At the same time, it's worth inspecting for bulges or other deformations that can occur when hitting an obstacle at a high rate of speed—such as a rock, a curb, or a pothole. In slightly less temperate areas, damage can especially occur right around a spring thaw when potholes and rough pavement begin to present itself on regular roads. These also reduce a tire's ability to stay together over the long term. It's not worth taking the risk that today's bulge could turn into tomorrow's tow.

How Deep Is Your Tread?

There's no question that certain off-road tires, in particular specialized designs such as mud tires, can wear out faster than a more traditional set of rubber. This is especially true if you do a significant amount of driving on regular pavement, which is less forgiving when it comes to wearing down treadblocks.

All-terrain tires are already somewhat of a compromise on the road due to the larger channels between treadblocks, which provides them with less of a contact patch than a street tire would have. As a result, you may not notice a reduction in wet weather handling as quickly as when riding on standard LTR rubber.

Where you will definitely discover a drop-off in performance, however, is on the trail. Typically, tires are considered worn out if the tread depth drops to 2/32 of an inch, but off-road or all-terrain tires usually require much more tread depth than 2/32" to remain effective on sand, in mud, or on rock. The specific tire you are using will impact how long you can go before performance starts to taper off, so make sure you use a tire depth gauge to check the depth and then compare it to the recommendations for that model.

Wear And Rotation

Uneven tire wear is almost always a sign of a suspension or alignment issue. On an off-road vehicle, it can be tough to balance the need to extend the life of your tires with the challenges faced by difficult operating conditions.

Given that trail use can pound a suspension into submission, keep an eye out for indicators that shock absorbers, ball joints, or wheel bearings are starting to fail. On your tires, this often looks like 'cupping,' or tires that show uneven patches of wear associated with the tire impacting the pavement in an irregular fashion as the chassis struggles to keep it in touch with the ground.

You'll also want to look for the standard signs of under-inflation (wear along both sides of the treadface) and over-inflation (wear along the middle of the treadface), which can result when you forget to refill or air-down your tires after a day on the sand, rocks or mud.

Rotating off-road tires isn't all that difficult. You can use the pattern recommended in your owner's manual, but you'll also want to work in that full-size spare to maximize the amount of lifespan you get from all of your tires.

Don't Forget Trailers

If you tow a vehicle hauler, utility trailer, or camper during the summer months, don't forget to do a reality check on the condition of its tires as well.

All of the above generally applies when inspecting trailer tires, but you'll want to add one more step and look for signs of dry rot. This usually occurs when rubber is exposed to UV rays or ozone, and it often affects trailer or RV tires that have been sitting in the sun over the course of the winter. It manifests as small cracks in the sidewall rubber, which indicate that the strength of the tire has been compromised, and should be replaced.

Looking to get the most out of your off-road tires? Check out our guide for maximizing their lifespan.

While Ford has been getting a ton of interest about the upcoming debut of the 2021 Bronco, the reborn Bronco isn’t the only important new SUV that’s due in the coming months.

Over at Jeep work has been going full steam ahead on a fully redesigned Grand Cherokee, and if speculation and leaks are to be believed, the next gen Grand Cherokee has the potential to be a game changer. So what exactly do we know about the new Grand Cherokee at this point?

First off, we know a redesigned Grand Cherokee is long overdue. Because while Jeep has done a more than commendable job keeping the current one fresh, the existing WK2 Grand Cherokee platform has been around for over a decade now, first debuting at the New York Auto Show back in 2009.

Further building on the platform sharing within the FCA family, the next generation Grand Cherokee will use the Alfa Romeo Giorgio platform, which currently underpins the Giulia sedan and Stelvio SUV. The Grand Cherokee, though, will be significantly larger than those two vehicles.

And while the Alfa Romeos may be known for their on-road sporting demeanor, Jeep will be putting significant work into the Grand Cherokee to make sure it lives up to the brand’s reputation for toughness and off-road capability.

While at this point we don't know exactly what sort of powertrain options the next generation Grand Cherokee will offer, you can rest assured that there will be plenty of them. 

Speculation suggests FCA's 2.0 liter turbocharged four cylinder could serve as the entry level engine, with a hybrid-assisted version of the 3.6 liter V6 also being a potential volume offering.

A turbodiesel engine could be in the mix as well for those looking for a nice mix of fuel economy and towing capacity. One would also expect at least one form of the current Hemi V8 to return, too.

Given Jeep's well publicized push toward electrification, its also possible that the next gen Grand Cherokee will eventually be offered in plug-in hybrid form to compete with an ever-growing number of plug-in SUVs from competitors. 

Given the Jeep reputation for off-roading, the new Grand Cherokee should of course be available with AWD and 4x4 drivetrains, and the hard core Trailhawk model will likely return as well. One of the biggest questions will be how Jeep adapts the Alfa platform into an off-road SUV worthy of the name. 

Last but not least, there's the likely return of the high performance SRT and Trackhawk Grand Cherokees. This is an area where the Giorgio chassis has potential to shine.

Just imagine an SUV with the driving dynamics of the Alfa Romeo Stelvio Quadrifoglio but with the legendary supercharged Hellcat V8 providing the power. 

While Jeep has yet to confirm the debut timeline for the next generation Grand Cherokee, rumors have the new model debuting as a 2021 model.

It's possible that the shut down over the recent Coronavirus pandemic has pushed back FCA's new product calendar, but given how important the Grand Cherokee is, it's likely to remain a high priority.

Now we just wait and see what this long-anticipated redesign brings to the table. 

And you know, while we're at it, we wouldn't mind seeing a V8-powered Alfa Romeo Giulia as well. Just saying. 

Originally, we featured this truck about a year ago and it received so much interest that we decided to revisit Snow White with updated photos and the story behind the story of the truck build. Enjoy.

This custom ’57 Chevy, better known as Snow White, is no ordinary classic truck and the tale of its creation is part of why it has become a legend. It all began back in 2011 when Rob and Kerry Logsdon started a parts shop in Lake Havasu City, AZ to help create a career for their kids. With a specialty of providing quality sheet metal replacement products for classic trucks, they were solidified in the custom scene.

Initial Run

Years later, their son, Ross Logsdon started tinkering around in the back area of the shop as he developed a passion for customizing. He would put his new skills to the test by building a ’62 Chevy C10 that was not only put back into running order, but it was made to shine and lay low. The truck went to the SEMA Show in 2016 and served to promote Premier as a shop that could build modernized rides.

New Venture

At the time, Premier offered ’47-’53 Chevy complete truck bodies and were starting a line for ’55-’59 Chevy trucks. These reproduction products are made better than the originals and have proved to be the perfect way to build one of these classic trucks. Rob knew that the best way to promote the new truck bodies would be to build a truck that could catch attention at all the biggest events. The only problem at the time was that Premier was so invested into the new venture that there was no extra capital to fund a build.

The Pitch

Through mutual friends, Rob met George Sepulveda and knew that he was a guy with a desire for owning stunning classic vehicles. While out at dinner one night, Rob ran across George and approached him about building a truck at cost to help move the idea forward. However, George was not a fan of trucks but agreed to come and check out what they had going on at the shop. The next day, George met up with Rob to further discuss the possible build and was impressed by the talents of Ross and picked his brain about what he had in mind for the truck. Afterwards, George went home and later returned to tell the team, “let’s do it!”

Hard Parts

Getting a head start, the team assembled a ’57 Chevy short bed truck with big back window. Then, for extra styling, the grille was customized and features a modified ’57 Belair center bar. Afterwards, the body was then bolted on top of a Total Cost Involved chassis with adjustable Ridetech Shockwaves controlled by an AccuAir management system. Up front is a BluePrint engines LS3 with TREMEC 6-speed transmission. The red leather interior is completely custom made by Ron Mangus and his team. The truck was also dressed in House of Kolor’s Snow White Pearl and Blue Blood Red paint. Completing the look is a set of 20x9 and 22x11 Budnik G-series Spyder billet wheels wrapped in sticky 245/35ZR20 and 285/30ZR22 Nitto INVO tires to maintain traction on the road in this beast. (For further info on the individual parts specs, please check out our previous story on Snow White).

Learning Process

During the buildup, George was able to stop in every few days to check on the progress. Ross claims that this was very helpful during the process as he had never built a vehicle of this caliber before. With George’s experience, Ross was able to hone his skills to build a vehicle like never before. About halfway through the process, George began to really dig this truck, which would later become his favorite of his entire collection.

Big Debut

After a ten month build process, the truck was finished and set for its debut at the ’17 SEMA Show. There, it made big waves and served its purpose of spreading the word about Premier’s products and build capabilities. It was also taken to a few other shows where it garnered huge attention and helped promote the shop even further. The truck turned many heads and business soared with new clients looking to own a truck like this. The following year, Premier built a ’56 Chevy pickup known as Sinister and it won them a coveted GM Design award. Premier attributes this all to what they started with Snow White

Forever Caregiver

A few months after this ‘57 was completed, George passed away and his wife, India, was inclined to hand the keys over to Rob. He then told her that he would not accept ownership but would consider himself the forever caregiver as it will always be George’s truck. Many people have made substantial offers to take possession of this truck, but it is considered more as a family member and Rob stated to us that as long as he is alive, it will never be for sale.

In Memory

Not long after these new photos of Snow White were taken we were informed that India passed—we hope she rests in peace with her late husband George. With a heavy heart, we would like to dedicate this feature to the memory of the Sepulvedas.

Click here to see our previous article on Snow White.

General Motors’ 3.0L Duramax flaunts water-to-air intercooling, highly-advanced, 36,000-psi high-pressure common-rail fuel injection, a variable intake manifold and the only inline-six architecture in the half-ton diesel segment. However, this cutting-edge, cast-aluminum block and head I6 is much more than the sum of all its fancy parts. It produces a class-leading 277 horsepower and sustains its 460 lb-ft torque number from 1,500 to 3,000 rpm. Packaged inside a 4x2 version of Chevrolet’s Silverado 1500 and backed up by the 10L80 10-speed automatic transmission, an EPA fuel economy rating of 33-mpg highway can be achieved—at least on paper (given their different aerodynamics, GMC Sierra versions are rated for 30-mpg highway).

But how is this new workhorse performing out there in the wild? So far, highway fuel economy numbers have, in general, come up short of EPA estimates. That said, they have proven higher than what people driving similarly-configured 2020 Ram EcoDiesels and Power Stroke F-150’s are seeing. And from an acceleration standpoint, GM’s 3.0L Duramax is the clear winner. In terms of towing and payload capacities, the Bow Tie doesn’t quite measure up to its crosstown rivals, but that certainly isn’t the engine’s fault. In fact, of the few complaints we’ve heard about so far (which is to be expected with any new engine platform), none of them have anything to do with a lack of power or drivability.

For our 8-month analysis of GM’s reentry into the half-ton diesel game, keep scrolling.

Cutting-Edge and Quiet

A cast-aluminum block and DOHC head, forged-steel rods and hypereutectic pistons all made their way into the 3.0L LM2 Duramax engine (and don’t forget the ductile-iron cylinder sleeves or the block stiffener). Robust in structure, the inline-six Duramax is also ultra-quiet thanks to the 36,000-psi common-rail injection system and fast-acting solenoid valve injectors that are capable of multiple pilot events per combustion cycle. This, in conjunction with the electronically controlled and actuated variable geometry turbocharger, yields class-leading 277 hp and 460 lb-ft of torque that holds true from 1,500 rpm to 3,000 rpm. This engine’s torque curve means it is more suited to tow than others in the segment, but you were expecting that from an I6 diesel, right?

No News is Good News—And There’s No News Yet…

While it’s pretty early on in the 3.0L Duramax’s production run to notice any specific engine-related problems that would call its reliability into question, we fully expect the EGR and exhaust aftertreatment systems to experience a few issues from time to time, as has become common on diesels over the past decade. Though the low-pressure EGR system (in conjunction with a conventional high-pressure EGR system) will improve turbocharger and engine efficiency, the system as a whole will most likely still have its fair share of EGR valve and EGR cooler ailments somewhere down the road.

The Biggest Complaint

By far, the biggest gripe with the new 3.0L Duramax (other than Tow/Haul mode activated by way of a knob on the dash rather than a button on the shift stalk or the fact that the diesel isn’t offered in WT trim) is the serviceability of the belt that drives the engine’s variable flow oil pump. Belt-driven from the back of the crankshaft, the oil pump’s belt carries a 150,000-mile replacement interval. And given its location, the transmission has to be pulled in order to access the belt (along with the transfer case if your truck is four-wheel drive). This is interesting given the fact that both the high-pressure fuel pump and camshafts are chain-driven. While other areas of the engine likely live up to the ease-of-serviceability nature of most inline-six mills, this aspect certainly doesn’t.

It’s Faster Than The Others

Pitted against the other diesel-powered domestic trucks in the half-ton segment (the Ram 1500 EcoDiesel and the F-150 Power Stroke), the Duramax is hands-down the fastest. The editors at Car and Driver were able to navigate a Silverado 1500 crew cab 4x4 through the quarter-mile in 15.5 seconds at 88 mph. By comparison, a similarly-configured Ram and F-150 returned 16.1 at 84 mph and 16.0 at 85 mph, respectively. Given the Silverado’s weight of 5,653 pounds, its 88-mph trap speed suggests that 270hp made it to the pavement, which equates to roughly 300 hp at the crank. If you ask us, the 3.0L Duramax’s 277hp factory rating (at the crank) is underrated.

It Loses The Towing Battle, But It’s Plenty Capable

With a max tow rating of 9,300 pounds, a Duramax-propelled half-ton Chevy Silverado or GMC Sierra 1500 falls short of the 11,400-pound rating from Ford and the new 12,560-pound rating from Ram. However, given the Duramax’s table-top torque curve from 1,500 to 3,000 rpm you are never going to see the GM lose the race to the top of the hill. And with the inherent balance and structural advantage of an I6 design, our money is on the Duramax outlasting the other two oil burners as the miles rack up.

The Exhaust Brake Function is a Little Soft

Unlike GM’s ¾-ton and larger diesel trucks (with the 6.6L Duramax V8), where you’re able to select the exhaust brake function independently (or in addition) to Tow/Haul mode, exhaust braking is only available on half-ton GM’s with Tow/Haul mode on (it’s the top knob to the left of the steering wheel). And also unlike the HD version, the 1500’s variable geometry turbo has nothing to do with the truck’s exhaust brake operation. Instead, the 10L80 transmission and its centrifugal pendulum absorber torque converter are called upon to semi-aggressively downshift and use engine speed to slow things up. While helpful in bringing any load to a quicker halt, the 1500’s exhaust brake is nowhere near as effective as it is on on its bigger, diesel-powered brother.

No Grievance with the Interior

Yours truly doesn’t spend a lot of time knit-picking manufacturer’s interiors. Why? Certainly, you can argue that GM’s interiors leave something to be desired, but GM faithful (the most likely buyers of these trucks) will appreciate the familiar surroundings in the cab—and the ability to make their truck its own rolling Wi-Fi hotspot doesn't hurt matters. In the AT4 trim Sierra we’ve spent time around, ride comfort was right on par with what Ford and Ram have to offer, and the storage compartments inside the rear seats are killer. Rear seat leg room is a notable concern on Double Cab model trucks, making the upcharge for the crew cab configuration well worth the money.

The Slickest Trim We’ve Found

The AT4 trim GMC Sierra that was alluded to above comes with a 2-inch suspension lift, off-road tuned Rancho shocks and aggressive tires mounted on 18-inch wheels. However, the AT4 Carbon Pro Edition takes things a step further, with the only use of carbon fiber composite in a truck bed in the industry, black chrome grille surround, a six-function GMC MultiProTM tailgate and an available first-in-class 15-inch Heads-Up display and rear camera mirror.

33-MPG or Not, the 3.0L Duramax is the Most Efficient

Your mileage may vary, but so far the 3.0L Duramax hasn’t quite lived up to the 33-mpg hype. We’ve seen trucks come close in 99-percent, steady-state highway cruising, but most hand-calculated fuel economy numbers for 4x2 model Silverados range from 27-mpg to 31-mpg. In a 1,000-mile test, the editors at PickupTrucks.com hand-calculated 27.4-mpg in a double cab 4x2 model, although testing was conducted in slight elevation and with in-cab climate controls on. If you’re willing to sweat it out, fold in the mirrors, max-out tire pressure or draft semis, who knows, 33-mpg might be possible. Maybe the EPA does that in its test cells… Either way, 27-plus miles per gallon is highly respectable for a truck approaching 3-tons in heft. Plus, in all the data we’ve seen the 3.0L Duramax beats the 3.0L Power Stroke’s fuel economy figures. And there are certainly bragging rights in that.

Back before the 3.0L EcoDiesel was revamped to supply Ram 1500’s with 260 hp and a best-in-class 480 lb-ft of torque, we put this 3.0L diesel shootout together. It’s worth the read when you get some time.

What are some of the worst car mods you've ever seen? It seems like the litany of automotive offenses grows longer every day as ill-informed owners strive to improve performance, save a few bucks on gas, or up the style quotient of their car all without doing any basic research about the products they are buying, or using common sense when evaluating the claims made by the people selling these miracle parts.

We put together this list looking at the history of bad car upgrades and picked out some perennial contenders for the least-useful aftermarket gear you could ever add to your vehicle.

5. The Tornado Electric Turbocharger / Turbonator

What if I told you there was a tiny, 12-volt fan you could stuff into your car's air intake that would boost horsepower and fuel economy to the point where its $25 purchase price seems like the steal of the century? And what if I also told you that no automaker on the planet had ever thought to install this one simple device in any of their production models? Finally, what if I called it an 'electric supercharger?'

Would you buy it then?

Surprisingly, thousands of people answered 'yes' to all of the above and elected to stuff the 'Turbonator,' or some variation of it, inside the intake tube leading to their motor. Rather than actually provide any benefits by way of 'disrupting' air molecules to improve combustion, these sometimes passive, sometimes powered devices are actually more adept at blocking engine airflow than anything else, reducing performance and causing a motor to suck down more gas. Or maybe you'll be one of the lucky ones who have the fan's metal blades come apart and fly into the motor, doing thousands of dollars of damage in the process.

4. Lambo Doors

Once upon a time, Lamborghini decided to solve a problem caused by the body shape of the Countach sports car by installing a scissor hinge that lifted its doors up and away from the vehicle itself. In addition to helping the doors clear the vehicle's ultra-wide sills, this also made it easier for owners to pop open the door and get a clear view behind them while reversing—something that the Countach's vestigial rearward visibility from inside the cabin did not allow for.

In the ensuing decades since the Lamborghini debuted, hundreds of attention-seekers have created an entirely new problem by installing scissor doors where scissor doors were never intended to be found. While the Countach was designed around the feature, adding a hinge to any other vehicle that requires driver and passenger to lift a much heavier door that was intended to swing out instead just creates a hassle for everyone involved. This is especially true if found on a truck or SUV that already has clearance issues in a parking garage.

Oh, and good luck in a rollover.

3. Fuel Line Magnets

Fuel line magnets hail from a long line of automotive snake oil upgrades that claim to solve something that was never a problem in the first place. In this case, it's the fear from some vehicle owners that unseen contaminants are lurking inside gasoline, ready to do major damage to their engines over the course of regular driving.

Major fuel producers have already run the gasoline sold at the pump through a huge number of filters to make sure that it doesn't contain any impurities that could damage your engine. But wait—what if they missed something that could be easily pulled out of the fuel flow with a one-dollar magnet wrapped around your gas line or fuel filter? Surely this is something no one at Big Oil had ever thought to consider.

Even more far-fetched are claims that magnets can 'activate' fuel molecules and 'prepare' then for combustion. In terms of actual science, it's about as effective as a snap bracelet. And who still owns a snap bracelet?

2. Exhaust Whistle Tip

Whistle tips attach to the end of a car's exhaust system and emit an irritating high-pitch frequency that not just dogs but everyone within a half-mile radius can hear. If you thought a cackling exhaust was great at helping make friends with neighbors, just wait until the whistle tip wakes them up as part of a morning commute.

You know what segment of the general population is especially good at picking up the high-pitched tone of a whistle tip? Cops. Installing a set of whistle tips is like ringing a dinner bell for law enforcement offices of every stripe looking to beef up their quota on moving violations by the end of the month.

1. Anti-Static Straps

Of all the items on this list of dubious car upgrades, anti-static straps are among the oldest and most treasured piece of pseudo-technology ever attached to an automobile. Chances are you've seen a rubber strap of some kind hanging from the back bumper or chassis of a muscle car, pickup, or ancient sedan, and wondered what would compel someone to drag anything behind their vehicle all day, every day.

In word: static electricity. Apparently, random static discharge is a plague so heinous that it's responsible for killing your cell phone and radio reception, giving you car sickness, sapping your energy, attracting dust to your car so it's harder to see at night, and shocking you endlessly through your seatbelt buckle as your tool around town. Sound ridiculous? Those are actual claims made by strap sellers, which purport to keep the car 'grounded' at all times.

Unless you're driving a truck though a fuel refinery or work in the natural gas industry, chances are the occasional static shock isn't going to have a negative impact on your lifestyle. For everyone else, these straps, which often contain multithreaded wire wrapped inside their rubber or are infused with carbon—aren't likely to do anything other than get stolen by the neighborhood kids.

Once you're done with the worst car upgrades, why not check out some of the worst names ever to have been affixed to an automobile? 

In our third installment of Driver Battles: Drag Edition we decided to do something a little different than we have in previous episodes, we paired up an old Mustang against a new one at Irwindale Drag Strip's 1/8th mile track. Not only did we want to see how a classic muscle car would fare against the modern version of a similar model, but it just so happens that certain members of our staff had the right cars for this competition: Mike Garrett has a '16 Mustang GT that we pitted against Greg Friend's '73 Ford Mustang Mach 1. As with any friendly face-off, they immediately exchanged belittling remarks about the other's vehicle and how they would do on the track with little basis in reality.

However, in actuality, these two cars were well matched in terms of general horsepower, torque, weight and tires. Both Mustangs make about 400hp and 400 pound/feet of torque, they're within 400 lbs. of each other, and they're both running Nitto NT555 G2 ultra high-performance tires.

In this article, we'll run through the specs of each car, experience levels, and what each driver had to do to get ready for the race. If you'd like to go directly to the video, click here, otherwise keep reading for a glimpse behind the scenes of this 'Stang showdown. -Admin

Mike Garrett: Prepping His '16 Ford Mustang GT

There I was sitting in my front yard when I got a phone call from Greg Friend, the Digital Content Editor here at Driving Line. Greg had an offer for me. "How would you like to come down to Irwindale Speedway with your Mustang to star in one of our Driver Battle videos?" 

It sounded awesome. I mean, who wouldn't want to skip a day in the office and head to the drag strip? The only problem was I'd never actually drag raced at the track before—in my Mustang or any other car and the date was only a few weeks out. Plus, my Mustang has a manual transmission, which can make it harder to be consistent at the track, and I didn't have much time to practice my launches.

And to make matters even more interesting, my opponent for this battle would be Greg himself—AKA the guy who oversees my work here at Driving Line. No big deal racing your boss right?

Greg would be driving his mildly hopped-up 1973 Mustang Mach 1 which he's owned for more than 20 years and has recently given a full overhaul. I'd be driving my bone stock 2016 Mustang GT complete with my son's child seat in the back. 

We bench raced the specs of our cars and decided to go for it. Modified classic Mustang vs. stock modern Mustang—with both of us rolling on fresh Nitto NT555 G2 rubber. Luckily, I didn't have much to do in terms of prep, as the car was pretty much ready to go straight from the showroom.

My dad decided to tag along with me to provide emotional support and some drag racing tips during the 230-mile drive to Irwindale and I heard that Greg's father might came along with him as well. We were ready to leave it all out on the track—just two adult men and their 'Stangs, hoping to avoid defeat and disappointment from our fathers. 

2016 Ford Mustang GT Specs

Greg Friend: Prepping His '73 Mustang Mach 1

A few weeks before the date of our next Driver Battles drag race, Kristin Cline, Driving Line's Editor in Chief, asked me if I'd be interested in racing my Mustang against Mike Garrett's Mustang GT. Almost before the words were out of her mouth, I replied, "absolutely!" The only problem was that my car wasn't actually running. I had just started a radiator swap, and I had a transmission pan leak that I'd been fighting for weeks—if I was going to make it to the racetrack on that day, it was going to take some serious hours in the garage to make it happen—not including the shakedown and tuning I'd need to do to keep from embarrassing myself in front of the film crew, my fellow coworkers and anyone who happened to watch the final video.

That same day I went out to the garage and started wrenching. After a few late nights in the garage I had the new aluminum radiator buttoned up and functioning properly, but I still had to tackle the trans pan, which meant dropping the pan and replacing all the fluid. As anyone who has ever done work on a Ford trans C6 or AOD can attest to, it's a messy job, and I was fed up with the warped tin OEM pan. I was able to get a machined, cast aluminum pan from Trick Flow the weekend before the race and hustled to get it installed and leak-free as soon as possible so I would have time to drive the car and tune it. Thankfully, the installation went smoothly and I had it on the road the next day.

All the while I was working on the car, the thoughts of losing to Mike and his '16 GT were swirling in my head—while he didn't have any experience at the drag strip, Mike does have a lot of experience driving stick, plus tons of track time—so I knew he wouldn't have any trouble managing himself and keeping his cool when it came down to the day of the race.

I used to drag race my car all the time, but it had been a good 15 years since I'd done it. Plus, his car had a horsepower rating higher than mine, and here's the kicker, much lower gears in the rear end, Mike's got 3.73:1 gears where I have 3.55:1 gears—which make or break a car in a race as short as the eighth-mile. 

I drove the car every day before the race to make sure it was in good working order, but as the day of the race drew ever closer I still felt there was more I could have done to squeeze a little more power out of it. My dad was there supporting me and helping me every step of the way, and even offered to tag along for the race, which I whole heartedly accepted—I'd never been to the drags without him being there to watch. He's got a lot of experience drag racing and would be able to coach me throughout the day of racing, and I was extremely thankful for his help.

Win or lose, I was excited to race the old Mach 1 again, even if it meant hearing about the loss from my coworker for all of eternity (as it is when racing any good friends).

1973 Mustang Mach 1 Specs

Surprise Twists and Where to Watch This Episode

And of course to make it a true driver battle—and not just a matchup of cars, they also fought it out in a pair of identical, front-wheel drive vehicles.

You'll have to watch the video to see how things ended up, but the final result was nearly too close to call. Let's just say there's a lot more to drag racing than meets the eye, especially in a heads up race like this. 

Click here to watch these two drivers and their Mustangs battle for bragging rights and see if modern muscle or vintage iron wins the day.

Here are some photos we snagged of the final development prototype of the 2021 Ford F-150 Platinum. There was no question that is was the Platinum model with badging noticeably uncovered on the front quarter panel inserts as well as on the steering wheel.

The badging matches the various chrome accents on the exterior that we’ve seen on the previous versions of the Platinum model, such as on the grille surround, mirrors, and wheels. Speaking of the grille and mirrors, they appear to have been updated. The grille edges have been smoothed out and the mirror mounts look like they might be the telescopic type that are adjustable to optimize rear viewing while towing.

The front bumper also looks like it has changed from the 2020 model, with a slightly new shape and modified inlets. The taillight shape also morphed a bit, and the updated design is in-line with the slightly less angular headlights.

The F150 makes its official debut in a couple of weeks on June 25th.

Love Ford's F150 pickup? Click here to see this slammed F150 dubbed the EcoSlab.

Dunes, mud, rock, streams, wooded trails and hills. For off highway enthusiasts in the Midwest, it doesn’t get much better than Badlands Off Road Park. The Attica, Indiana OHV destination is one of a kind in the diversity of its terrain. One moment, it feels like you’re wheeling in the mountains out West. A minute later, it’s as if you’re slinging sand in the desert, down south for a good old mud bog or right back in the Midwest timber. The Badlands accomplishes all of this in less than 900 acres, but that’s not all the property has to offer…

Fortunately for yours truly, someone who’d been on the hunt for a RZR four-seater, Attica Motorsports is located within the friendly confines of the Badlands—and it’s the largest Polaris dealer in the state of Indiana. That means units are priced to sell, the buying process is pressure-free and a massive parts department is always at the ready. Once we picked out the perfect RZR for our needs, we signed on the dotted line, grabbed a few wrist bands and hit the trails. Only in Attica can you buy a brand-new machine and then immediately set out to put it through its paces.

Endless Inventory

Buying and riding is all in a day's work at the Badlands. When a leisurely drive through Indiana corn-country brings you to the long gravel drive that ushers you into the Badlands, it’s also bringing you to the largest Polaris dealership in the Hoosier state: Attica Motorsports. The day before we arrived, we learned that 12 RZRs had been sent to new homes. Twelve!

Safety First

Only at Badlands Off Road Park can you sign for a new machine one minute and be riding it through the trails the next. Hanging a right as we pulled out of Attica Motorsports’ dealership, we entered the Badlands’ varying terrain and extensive trail system for a few hours of break-in time aboard our new machine. Color-coded trails allow you to pick from novice, to moderate, to the most challenging trails.

RZR XP 4 1000

Thanks to a Polaris manufacturer rebate in addition to Attica Motorsports’ usual below-sticker pricing, our 2020 RZR XP 4 1000 checked in a few thousand dollars below MSRP. It’s no 168hp turbocharged XP 4 or the 181hp Pro XP 4, but the naturally aspirated 999cc ProStar twin-cylinder DOHC four-stroke engine, with its 110 hp, is more than enough for our needs (and is an upgrade from the S4’s 100 hp rating).

Wide Open Spaces

A large swathe of the Badlands property is an open floor plan, and one of the first types of terrain you encounter is sand. This first stop in the playground is great for roosting through the dunes, navigating whoops sections and playing in the various sand bowls that are available. Here, you can see the elevated position of this particular spot in the dunes, with countless sandy, spider-like hills branching out from the main road that originally guided you into the depths of the park.

Blasting Up The Arteries

The artery-like hills run perpendicular to the primary path into the park. They’re moderately-challenging at best, but the loose sand warrants some speed if you plan to negotiate them in two-wheel drive. We spent most of our time in this part of the park (hey, you can’t blame us for saving our new machine’s first trail-generated scratches for another day).

Something For Everyone

It’s hard to explain how so many different types of terrain can be packed into a little more than 800 acres, but somehow the Badlands Off Road Park pulls it off. In the age of side-by-sides, most trails cater to this vehicle group (as well as the Jeep and SUV crowd), but that’s not to say that dirt bike and ATV riders have been forgotten. In fact, bikes and sport quad owners can test or brush up on their racing skills at the park’s dedicated, full-size motocross track.

On-Demand AWD

With a spool-type rear-end, RZRs have a knack for digging holes in two-wheel drive. Luckily, Polaris employs one of the most effective on-demand all-wheel drive systems in the side-by-side world. To try it out, we deliberately buried the rear tires on a loose sand hill, hit the button on the dash and immediately extracted ourselves once rear wheel spin was detected.

Whoops & Bowls

An impressive line of shallow (yet wide) whoop-dee-doos exists near the sand dunes area of the park (shown). And for those that enjoy globe of death-type movement, various sand bowls allow you to speed round and round until you’ve had enough.

The “Tubes”

You can’t ride the Badlands without taking a trip through the “tubes.” The gigantic buried culverts serve as drain tiles along the Badlands’ river trail, but double as one of the most unique features you’ll find at any OHV park. They pass through a hillside and dump water into a small pond on the other side. Following a big rain, the drop-off can measure several feet deep, but even when the water level isn’t up it’s a load of fun to splash in.

They also host Ultra4 racing at the Badlands. Check it out right here!