If the majority of your truck’s miles are accumulated in the rough, this article doesn’t apply to you. But if you’re like most pavement-pounding pickup owners these days, tire noise—at least to some extent—weighs on your mind when you’re on the hunt for new tread. Online search inquiry statistics show that most truck owners search for “quiet tires” and tires with “aggressive tread” simultaneously. As you might’ve already guessed, all-terrain tires are the big winner here, thanks in large part to their ability to check several boxes off at once. Today’s all-terrains are quieter and more capable off road than ever before. And if you pick the right A/T, ride comfort, tread wear and even fuel economy doesn’t have to be sacrificed.

With few compromises present with all-terrains, it stands to reason why they enjoy so much popularity. But just because low tire noise is one of an A/T’s primary enticers (and one of the main objectives for many prospective tire buyers), does that rule mud terrains out of the equation completely? Not exactly. Over the past decade, mud terrains have become more well-mannered than ever before thanks to different rubber compounds, well-engineered tread patterns and cutting-edge sound equipment all being used during development. In recent years, one tire manufacturer has even blurred the lines between A/T and M/T tread patterns in what’s been called a hybrid terrain. It’s quiet yet highly capable off road—and it’s seen tremendous success so far.

So what is the average truck owner’s expectation for tire noise? Do they even care? And if they do, where do they draw the line? After speaking with a handful of truck owners that’ve all owned their fair share of all-terrains and mud terrains over the years, this is what we found.

A Little Background…

All-Terrains

If you want a tire that performs above average in virtually every category that matters to truck owners, it’s hard to beat an all-terrain. For pickups that are expected to do a little bit of everything, the age-old A/T is simply the safest bet. Quiet on pavement yet capable off-road and with great drivability on both dry and wet surfaces, it’s no wonder all-terrains are the go-to tread for truck owners. Throw in a satisfactory comfort rating and favorable tread life and an A/T practically sells itself. Nitto’s Terra Grappler G2 is one such all-terrain that checks all of those boxes—not to mention the fact that all hard metric sizes it comes in feature a 65,000-mile limited tread wear warranty.

Mud Terrains

Aggressive looks and considerably better grip than an all-terrain make the mud terrain a common purchase for today’s truck owners. The trade-off is more tire noise (namely at highway speed), but many tire manufacturers have gone to great lengths to turn down the volume when traveling on pavement. While developing its Trail Grappler, Nitto’s engineers were able to arrange the tread blocks’ size, shape and position in a way that decreased tire noise by 34-percent at street speeds and 36-percent at highway speeds when compared to the extreme terrain Mud Grappler. The Trail Grappler may not be as quiet as its all-terrain and hybrid terrain brethren, but it is one of the tamer mud terrain options in the light truck tire market.

Hybrid Terrain

For a little more bite than what the aforementioned Terra Grappler G2 and the original Terra Grappler offer, Nitto designed the Ridge Grappler: a hybrid terrain that’s more aggressive than an all-terrain but that possesses far better road manners than a mud terrain. This tire’s variable pitch tread pattern keeps it quiet at highway speeds, its shoulder grooves are positioned in varying lengths and widths to help clean out the voids (and preserve traction) and reinforced tread block foundations reduce flex. Aesthetically, its physical appearance is also considerably different than pretty much anything else in the tire industry.

Load Capacities Fit For Today’s Heavy-Duty Trucks

With the towing and payload capabilities of today’s ¾-ton and larger trucks inching higher and higher each new model year, it’s important to have tires that allow you to use your truck to its full capacity. E load range tires have long been a necessity for drivers whose trucks live at the GCWR or GVWR mark, but with current 1-tons now capable of towing more than 30,000 pounds F load range tires are becoming more desirable by the day. This version of the Terra Grappler G2, a 35x12.50R20, comes with a hefty 3,640-pound load capacity. An F-rated version of the Ridge Grappler and Terra Grappler G2 is also available in this same, popular size.

Now About That Tire Noise…

Today’s Soundproof Cabs Definitely Help Muffle Tire Noise

One thing to keep in mind when coping with road noise from aggressive or semi-aggressive tires is that today’s late-model trucks have the quietest cabs they’ve ever had. They’re tightly sealed, insulated and isolated so well from the noise of the engine (think diesel) and the rest of the chassis that the average tire hum that used to put you to sleep is barely audible. Thanks to the automakers pouring so much R&D into NVH reduction, driving a late-model truck makes slight to moderate tire noise a non-issue for most people.

Realistic Expectations

Most truck owners know that no tire is perfect, so the majority of them have realistic expectations. Many of the die-hard diesel guys we’ve spoken with don’t seem to mind road noise, but this is only true to a degree. They aren’t thrilled about the audible increases that come with the more aggressive mud terrains on the tire market, but they can cope with some high speed audibility so long as it’s relatively negligible and comes without sacrificing ride quality, tread wear rate and especially off-road performance.

Mud Terrains According to J.D.

J.D. racks up more than 40,000 miles a year on both his personal and work vehicles, not to mention the fact that he spends most weekends tearing across the desert, so he eats through his fair share of tires. For him, having a mud terrain that is capable of getting him through the sand, dirt and rock he encounters is worth putting up with a tolerable amount of road noise. “For me, I can deal with a little bit of noise, but with the new cabs being so quiet on trucks these days you can’t hear a noisy tire nearly as much,” he told us. “Of course, on my OBS Ford you couldn’t hear the tires on it if they were made of concrete thanks to the noise from the 7.3L Power Stroke.”

Hybrid Terrains According to Jake

They don’t come more die-hard Cummins than Jake. On his third Cummins-powered Ram now, he’s accumulated a boat load of miles on the set of 33-inch Ridge Grapplers aboard his fourth-gen ¾-ton. And even though he admits the tires are making a little more noise now that they’ve reached 50-percent wear, he affirms it’s very subtle. “A slight tire noise doesn’t bother me at all,” he said. “It only bothers me if I can hear it over the exhaust on the interstate—but I’ve never had a set of Nittos that’ve done that.”

All-Terrains According to Brian

Brian is a diesel owner who’s run all-terrains on four different trucks over the years. His latest ride, an aluminum bodied Ford Super Duty, has shown him just how advanced the sound deadening has become on newer trucks. Because it’s so quiet in the cab, he’s willing to tolerate more tire noise than he used to be—although he’s currently running a set of Terra Grappler G2’s which he says he’s extremely happy with. “I definitely think the cabs are quieter. I would attribute a lot of the quietness to the new cabs.” He then added: “But I don’t mind a little tire noise at all. They [the G2’s] do have a little more noise than the factory tires, but that was to be expected being that they’re more aggressive and noticeably bigger.” Brian also told us that if noise was his primary concern he would start with the truck’s 5-inch aftermarket exhaust system, not the tires.

Want to know more about Nitto’s hybrid terrain Ridge Grappler? Check out our long-term review series right here.

Not all builds go as planned and it takes real dedication to see a project through to completion. Many of the builds we feature make the process look easy, but often times it was a daunting task to make it all a reality. Though the struggle can be real, the positive emotions they can serve are worth all the trouble.

For Jay Durheim of Spring, TX, he learned this hard lesson with his ’68 Chevy C10. Originally, he was inspired by the black ’72 Chevy pickup in the movie Dazed and Confused. From seeing that mean truck drive around in the movie, Jay was inspired to build a classic pickup of his own. Little did he know how big of an adventure he was about to go on.

With intentions of owning a second gen C10, he was able to purchase this truck off a friend. It was a start and Jay quickly found out that the truck was rough around the edges and needed some TLC. One things needing a change was the frame as it had previous work that was not up to snuff. Jay sourced a donor frame and added tubular front control arms, drop spindles and replacement trailing arms for the rear. He then sourced disc brake for all four corners from Pro Performance and installed a set of lowering springs to complete a 4/6 drop once the body was bolted to it.

After playing around with the truck for a few years on his own, Jay decided he wanted to go further with the truck with paint. He then got in contact with Cory Scott of Kustom Werx Autobody and made a game plan to refinish the truck. Since the body was in bad shape, it was easier to replace most of the sheet metal rather than spending countless hours straightening the originals. It was then painted a custom mixed red for a unique look.

For the inside, Jay was referred to a shop to have it completely overhauled and this turned out to be where the journey went sideways. The upholstery shop was took way longer than anticipated and the work was not up to par either. Jay pulled the truck and had Cory asses the damage. Come to find out that the paint on the cab was damaged from the interior work and it needed to be painted once again. Fed up with the situation, Jay dropped the truck off with Cory and gave him free reign to do whatever. It was then repainted red and given a gray two-tone with new trim to split the colors.

The truck was looking great, but it was time to pick up the pieces from the upholstery mishaps. Jay was referred to John Burgess of Twisted Interiors to transform the inside, which started with a custom center console and a set of Snowden seat frames. The crew at Twisted created completed the full custom interior that was covered in red leather. Then, Wired Customs stepped in to add a Focal stereo that’s controlled by an iPad mounted on the dash.

While the interior was being worked on, Jay noted some odd noises from the big block engine. He decided to have a turnkey 496ci stroker big block Chevy engine built by Earl Schexnayder. The enlarged block was given upgraded internals, a Lunati camshaft, AFR 265cc aluminum heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake and a Holley Demon carb that was tuned by Allen Bills. The engine is now fed fuel from a rear mounted Boyd’s welding gas tank and spent gases are released through a set of Doug’s headers and a custom exhaust withQuick Time Performancemufflers and cutouts. Topping it off, the engine was then dressed with an accessory drive from Billet Specialties and Proform valve covers.

The massive power plant was turned around in only three weeks, which is astonishing considering that it was fully built inside and out. It was wired up by Jay himself and the vitals are now monitored by a Dakota Digital gauge cluster, which now has a Digital Guard Dawg keyless push-button ignition. Behind the big block is a Turbo 350 from Brad’s Transmissions, which is capable of holding a lot more than the 650hp that Jay’s engine makes. Helping to put the power to the pavement is a 10-bolt rear end with 3:73 gears and Eaton limited-slip differential.

To finish off this truck is high fashion, Jay hit up a buddy at American Racing to get a set of wheels that would fit the bill. At first, he got a set of chrome wheels, but they were way too shiny for the look of this truck. He ended up with a set of 20x8 and 20x9.5 VN507 Rodder wheels in silver for a refined finish. They are now wrapped in 275/35R20 and 305/35R20 Nitto NT555 G2 tires with large tread blocks for enhanced traction. Not only do the tires look great on the enhanced truck, but they increase straight-line stability and are rated for superior corning capability.

After a few years of working on this truck and having numerous hands on it, The Jay-10 is now complete. Many people might have thrown in the towel early on as it was no easy task to keep pushing but Jay had some good help from good people. In the end, the juice was worth the squeeze as this classic hauler is mighty fine and ready to lay the smackdown on anyone that challenges it.

Click here to see, "Clifford," the little, red, slammed '62 GMC pickup truck.

It may be the hardest decision that any true off-road enthusiast faces. Do you go with an all-terrain or mud-terrain tire? While pavement-pounders won’t have to worry about jagged rocks, rough two-tracks, and muddy passes, anyone who spends time on the road-less traveled will tell you that the right tire can be the difference between fond memories on the trail and an outdoor nightmare. The two biggest camps when it comes to off-road oriented tires are mud-terrain (M/T) and all-terrain (A/T).

While both are commonly built with a radial construction, the tread pattern, sizing, and performance characteristics of each can vary wildly between the two. Given that many of the modern mud-terrain tires carry more refined pavement manners than those of the past, the traditional mud-terrain stereotypes of poor longevity and loud road noise no longer ring as true. In that same notion, the modern all-terrain tire is much more dynamic off-road and thankfully has more of an aggressive look than the milder all-terrains of old.

So, which is the best fit for your daily driver? To help guide you on your tire buying journey, we’re going to break down the most common areas of use. From rock crawling to road noise, we’ll examine which is best suited for each environment. To narrow down this potentially endless array of tire options, we’ll be reference two of the most prominent all-terrain and mud-terrain tires on the market—the Nitto Terra Grappler G2 and the Nitto Trail Grappler. Given that both are comparable in weight and side-wall strength, it allows us to focus on the tire’s performance attributes. Since both tires have been around for years, we can also speak to the longevity potential of each.

Mud

Mud is the great equalizer off-road. No matter how much horsepower, ground clearance, and articulation you have, if your 4x4 can’t clean out the mud between the tread blocks, you’ll quite literally find yourself spinning in place. This is why mud-terrain tires have larger voids between the tread and special features such as kick-out bars that help dispel anything that gets lodged between the cleats. The tighter the tread voids, the faster you’ll need to spin the tire to clean it out. This can be hard on parts and equates to a less controlled approach to wheeling. This is why the mud-terrain has its own tire category. If you frequently see mud, there’s no real replacement for a quality mud-terrain tire.

Sand

Depending on where you are in the country, sand can be a normal part of your wheeling landscape. Sand is a tricky one for your average 4x4. You want a large footprint to stay riding atop the loose stuff. Having too aggressive of a tire can be a hinderance as your rig may want to dig you down versus propel you forward. Aside from running an off-road only set of sand paddle tires on the rear of your vehicle, an all-terrain tire tends to be the better fit for this terrain. Its tighter tread design is a nice balance or grip and flotation. Air pressure here is also important. Don’t be afraid to drop your rig into the teens when sand is on the menu.

Snow

Snow is another area like sand where a specialty tire can standout over a standard all-terrain or mud-terrain tire. If we needed something that would require studs, we would opt for a more winter-oriented tire such as the Nitto Exo-Grappler. That being said, the Terra Grappler G2 will often edge out a mud-terrain thanks to a more compact design that will prevent snow from packing as easily. We’ve been impressed with how well the Trail Grappler works on snowy trails, but overall, it’s hard to beat a modern all-terrain when a mix of winter weather driving is in the cards.

Rock Crawling

If there is one area that remains highly contested between wheelers and experts alike, it is which tire is better in the rocks. In high-traction areas such as Moab, Utah, having a large, consistent tread pattern gripping the rocks equates to more traction. For this reason, the all-terrain is an ideal choice. However, Moab is incredibly unique. In other parts of the country like Texas, and even the famed Hammer Trails in Southern California, there’s often a mix of loose dirt to content with along with the rocks. For this reason, a mud-terrain radial such as the Trail Grappler is the better choice.

Desert

Desert two-track wheeling is largely reserved for those living in the southwestern part of the United States. It is also a unique area of off-roading where higher speeds are more common. This type of terrain is brutal on tires, especially sidewalls. With both the Trail Grappler and Terra Grappler G2 are built with a heavy-duty carcass (hello thick sidewalls), both are suitable in this terrain. This is another area that the all-terrain often has a leg up. Much of this is thanks to an often more uniformed design, with helps with stability at speed. It’s not the say the mud-terrain will work poorly here, just that the all-terrain will more often than not give you a surer foot when you are kicking up the dust.

Road Noise

The mud-terrain radial has come a long way in the sounds that they produce. While some people love the sound roar of classic M/T, for many others, the less noise the better. The all-terrain tire is the clear winner. Even with wildly quiet tires such as the Trail Grappler, a mud-terrain by design is going to be louder that an all-terrain with very few exceptions. If you want quiet, go all-terrain.

Sipes

Given that most of your time will be spent on-road, it’s worth talking about the pros and cons of each tire on the pavement. Aside from the aforementioned noise, the other department that mud-terrain tires will often lag is sipes. Sipes are those small groves you see all over the tread blocks on this Nitto Terra Grappler G2. These are put there to increase grip in wet conditions. They make a huge difference in the rain, which could be a major buying factor depending on the weather where you live. It’s important to note that not all all-terrain tires will have a heavy amount of siping and there are mud-terrain radials with sipes as well. An aspect we appreciate about the Terra Grappler G2 is that the tread blocks are fully siped. This means as the tread block wears down, you’ll still have the same amount of sipes, a great feature that is not universal in the tire category.

Going The Distance

Speak of wear, let’s talk a little about tire life expectancy. Nitto backs the Terra Grappler G2 with “with a limited treadwear warranty which covers 50,000 miles for LT-metric and flotation sizes, and 65,000 miles for hard metric sizes.” The Trail Grappler on the other hand does not get the same warranty. With that being said, we’ve seen Trail Grapplers with over 50,000 miles. Much of this tread life will come down to air pressure, tire rotation and alignment. At the end of the day, an all-terrain tire is universally going to last longer than a mud tire. If long life is what you are chasing, all-terrain is the better choice.

Fuel Economy

Fuel economy is one area that we’ve found time and time again that the all-terrain tire leads the pack. On average, we have calculated at least a 1 mile-per-gallon difference between an all-terrain and mud-terrain radial of the same size. Without question, having less rolling resistance is going to get you farther down the road for less.

The Clear Winner?

So, is there a clear winner? That simply depends on the terrain you are looking to take your adventure on. If you see yourself battling boulders and muddy trails, opt for the mud-terrain tire. A modern mud-terrain radial such as the Nitto Trail Grappler has plenty of refinement to be fit on a daily driver. If you avoid mud at all cost and only dabble in the rock crawling world, then it’s hard to pass up the all-terrain tire. As the name implies, the all-terrain works well just about everywhere. And though it’s no mud-terrain replacement, we have found that tires like the Terra Grappler G2 can hold its own in wet dirt, just not as well as a benchmark off-road tire such as the Trail Grappler. Before we can clearly crown a champion, we must mention one more tire…

The Hybrid

If you are wondering why haven’t tire companies built something that’s in-between a mud-terrain and all-terrain tire, well, they did. It’s called the Ridge Grappler, and as you might have guessed, Nitto puts it directly between the Trail Grappler and Terra Grappler G2 in its lineup. The idea was to create a hybrid tire that would offer many of the standout features that people have come to expect from an all-terrain tire, but the off-road performance that is often reserved for the more aggressive mud-terrain tire. This was accomplished by placing massive tread blocks with large spacing and deep sipes in a variable pitch tread design. The end result was a tire that runs quiet on the highway but offers more bite in the dirt.

Click here to learn more about why the Terra Grappler G2 is the Swiss Army Knife of tires.

While the decade of the 1980s is known for a lot things - some good and some bad, it often seemed like a period that was “ahead of its time”. Whether or not its visions would come to be real, the aesthetic and design of the ‘80s was often rooted in an idea of an angular, ultramodern future and this is especially evident in the concept cars of the time.

Despite accusations of being an “old fashioned” or conservative car maker, General Motors and Chevrolet in particular produced a number of wild, forward-looking concept cars during the ‘80s and we’ve dug five that are especially interesting.

1. 1984 Bertone Ramarro Corvette

When the C4 Corvette in the early ‘80s appeared on the scene it was considered extremely modern for its time, but this version of the C4 makes the production car look positively traditional.

Known as the Ramarro Corvette, this concept was built by iconic Italian design studio Bertone and debuted at the 1984 LA Auto Expo.

It’s underpinnings were the same as the regular C4 Corvette, but it’s body was a wedge-shaped re-imagining of a sports car, compete with sliding doors not unlike what you would find on a minivan.

 It’s just one of many wild Corvette-based concepts released over the decades.

2. 1987 Blazer XT-1 Concept

With a minivan-esque body shape and the underpinnings of a truck-based SUV, the 1987 Blazer XT-1 is a textbook example of a funky 1980s concept vehicle.

Originally debuted at the '87 Chicago Auto-Show, the odd-looking XT-1 was powered by a 4.3 liter V6 4WD system—

but the most unusual thing was its steer-by-wire system complete with rear-wheel steering.

The interior meanwhile, loaded up with all sorts of high tech '80s toys looks like it could have come straight from the set of Knight Rider. How about that steering yoke?

3. 1987 Express Concept

Also debuted in 1987 was the Chevrolet Express Concept, which makes the Blazer XT-1 look conservative by comparison.

Its body looks as much like a spaceship as it does a car, and its powertrain is just as futuristic.

It was powered by one of GM's "AGT" gas turbine systems and was imagined as a vehicle for a new kind limited-access highway system where it could cruise at speeds around 150 miles per hour.

If you thought the Express looks like something that came of of Back to the Future II's version of 2015, you'd be exactly right. The exact car can be seen driving around the Hill Valley of the future in the famous film.

4. 1986 Celebrity Eurosport RS

In stark contrast to to that, we have the '86 Celebrity Eurosport RS Concept.

The Chevy Celebrity was a run of the mill front-drive family sedan, but in 1986 Chevy teamed up with an outfit called Autostyle Cars to make the Celebrity Eurosport RS Concept.

Inspired by the sport sedans from Europe and Japan, the Eurosport RS featured unique styling, interior treatment and badging that was very much in tune with the style of the day. The concept lead to a nearly identical production version known as the Celebrity Eurosport VR.

While not quite a "real" sport sedan, the Eurosport VR proved to be one of Chevy's most unusual cars of the 1980s and one that's likely be to classic given its rarity.

5. 1989 PPG XT-2

Lastly, we get to the end of the decade and the 1989 Chevrolet XT-2 Concept

Built as pace vehicle for the Indy car series and described as an "IROC Camaro with a pickup bed."

It was powered by a 4.5 liter V6 from the Trans Am race series and made 360 horsepower. It also had a six-speed manual transmission and suspension borrowed from the Corvette.

More than anything, you can imagine the XT-2 as a glimpse at what an "El Camino of the '90s" may have been in alternate universe. It's a fitting way to close out this look at "what could have been."

Don't forget that we actually came this close to an actual new El Camino back in the late 2000s with the Pontiac G8 Sport Truck.

Back in the golden days of the original muscle car era, drag racers seeking that extra hundredth of a second would experiment with 'power shifting.' This no-lift shift required drivers to move from one gear to the next without taking their foot off the gas, with the idea being that the engine would remain in the proper rev range for the next cog with no loss of power.

While this strategy may or may not have resulted in quicker ETs, it definitely wreaked havoc on delicate transmission synchros that couldn't handle the mash-and-bash of constant full-throttle power application. It also had the nasty tendency of frying the clutch as beginners struggled to stab on and off the pedal quick enough to avoid overheating it. As such, it was unpopular with anyone unwilling to risk having to walk home a winner.

Decades later, no-lift shifting has come back into the spotlight thanks to automotive technology that finally makes power shifting less of a mechanical liability. In fact, not only has the aftermarket embraced the no-lift shift, but there are even a few OEMs willing to make it standard equipment on their high performance models—with a full warranty to back up any 'oopsies' that might occur.

How Does It Work?

What makes the no-lift shift a safe propositions today compared to the gamble-your-drivetrain dice roll it once was? In a word, software. Now that engine controls have advanced to the point where nearly every aspect of how a motor operates can be individually controlled, automotive engineers have found clever ways to protect you from yourself when shifting a manual transmission as quickly as possible.

The secret lies in the ability to interrupt spark to your motor when it detects that the clutch and the accelerator have been pressed at the same time. Once the vehicle's ECU receives the signal that the clutch pedal has been activated, it cuts the ignition—effectively 'lifting' for you—until the shift has been completed, allowing you to keep the gas mashed.

Why Not Lift?

At first it might sound as though there's no real advantage to a no-lift shift system if it's effectively doing the same thing a human driver would do in backing off the revs during a gear change. While the principle is the same, the major difference is the speed at which the cut-out occurs—mere milliseconds under computer control versus the much more extended wrist-and-ankle ballet that would have to occur otherwise. In actual practice, it's almost as though no lift occurred whatsoever, with a measurable improvement in straight-line acceleration as a result.

It's clear that there are slivers of a second to be saved if you don't have to lift off the gas when swapping cogs in a manual transmission. What's even better about a properly-executed no-lift shift system is that in a turbocharged car, the briefest of ignition interruptions means that boost doesn't drop in-between gears. This can dramatically improve the power provided by a small-displacement turbo motor, as there's no need to wait for the snail to spool back up as the revs climb.

Turbos First, The Rest Will Follow

It's no coincidence, then, that the first factory-installed no-lift shift systems were offered in exactly these types of vehicles. In the early 2000s, both the Chevrolet Cobalt SS and the Chevrolet HHR SS would offer no-lift functionality to go with their 2.0-liter turbo four-cylinder drivetrains. More modern sport compacts have also used variations on the system, such as the Ford Focus RS which doesn't require that the driver lift when shifting from first to second gear after a launch control-assisted start.

On the muscle side of the equation, General Motors also leads the way in offering a no-lift shift system on many models of the Chevrolet Camaro as well as the C7-generation Chevrolet Corvette. Rare manual versions of the Buick Regal GS and Cadillac ATS-V sports sedans also provided the feature, as well as the second-generation Cadillac CTS-V. Ford lovers have long had a factory no-lift shift option for the Mustang in the form of the Blue Oval's Power Packages (PP1, PP2, PP3) available from Ford Performance.

On the aftermarket side, there are many different no-lift shift options available from a wide range of manufacturers. One of the more popular is the WOT Box from N2MB, which wires in to the vehicle's ignition system so that it can provide the engine cut-out required. These devices are easy to install, and work with almost any electronically-controlled engine management system.

Learning Curve

While a no-lift shift system is far less damaging to your drivetrain than a traditional power shift, it's not foolproof, and you should still endeavor to shift as smoothly as possible, and as quickly as possible, when using one. There's also fuel wash to consider as the cylinders fill with gasoline that doesn't get burned, which could potentially contaminate engine oil. If you use your no-lift feature on a regular basis, you'll want to keep an eye on your oil, and potentially change it more regularly than you would under normal driving.

It's also true that it takes more than a bit of practice to get used to the no-lift concept. Any experienced driver's brain is going to be screaming for the right foot to back off when attempting to shift at high rpm, and ignoring that survival instinct and learning to shift with your left foot and right hand only is definitely a learning curve. Once you have it mastered, however, you'll potentially be rewarded with a new personal best at the strip.

Looking for more drag racing tips? Check out our primer on the quarter mile here.

Many diesel enthusiasts know that every Duramax offered between 2001 and 2016 can support 500rwhp on tuning alone, but not everyone knows the specific hurdles that face each version of the 6.6L V8 in getting there, or moving beyond it. Case in point, while an LB7 owner can enjoy 500 ponies without touching the engine, the LLY is notorious for overheating thanks in large part to a major airflow restriction. If you want to relish the same tune-only performance the LB7 does, adding a freer flowing turbo mouthpiece is one of the key components in making that possible. After that, you can take full advantage of the LLY’s larger turbocharger and squeeze as much as 530rwhp out of your setup.

However, the LLY Duramax’s being equipped with a bigger, 62mm turbo is of little use until you address the Allison transmission. That’s right, the same five-speed automatic that was bolted to the LB7 engine resides behind the LLY—and it needs to be properly prepped for big power before you try to send big power through it. Then, and preferably while you’ve got the transmission out of the way, it pays to ditch the factory turbo downpipe for a larger version (to lower exhaust gas temperature) followed by a high-flow Y-bridge in the valley (to lower air intake temps). Once you’ve had your fill of a reliable 530rwhp, it’s time to invest in a larger turbo, injectors and CP3—but not before you add an electric lift pump and get serious about adding head studs.

Sound like a lot? It’s really not that bad. For the low-down on how to break through each of the LLY’s performance roadblocks, keep scrolling.

Roadblock #1: Allison Transmission

Though there are a few subtle differences between the Allison 1000 found behind the LLY vs. the version employed with the LB7, for all intents and purposes they are the same five-speed automatic. And this means the Allison is still only capable of handling 90hp more than stock reliably and roughly 650 lb-ft of torque at the wheels before limp mode or considerable internal damage occurs. Full disclosure: if you leave your LLY completely stock or adhere to a slight 50-90hp increase the Allison will last forever. The problems arise with aggressive, high horsepower ECM calibrations and especially when you go from light throttle driving to full throttle racing on a whim.

Performance Allison Transmission Build

Being that the Allison used in conjunction with the LLY is basically the exact same as the one parked downwind of the LB7, the same upgrades are on the table when fortifying the commercial-grade slushbox to harness more power. Common internal upgrades include aftermarket clutches and steels with increased clutch disc counts, a shift kit in the valve body, a new internal wiring harness, fresh bushings and new thrust bearings, and in higher horsepower applications a billet flex plate, P2 planet, C2 clutch hub and shafts. In any performance transmission build, power transfer begins with a reputable triple-disc torque converter. Some big aftermarket names in the Allison transmission game are Sun Coast, Goerend Transmission, Inglewood Transmission Service and Merchant Automotive. The Allison building bench at LinCo Diesel Performance, a shop that swears by Sun Coast parts, is shown above.

Roadblock #2: Restrictive Factory Turbo Inlet Manifold

It can be argued that the turbo inlet manifold on the LB7 Duramax was an airflow choke point, but on the LLY there is absolutely no denying it. In restricting airflow into the compressor side of the LLY’s turbo, it forces the charger to work even harder to produce sufficient boost. As a result, the LLY produces warmer intake temps, exhaust gas temperature (EGT) and coolant temperature, which often leads to the engine overheating.

Aftermarket Turbo Inlet Manifold

Believe it or not, upgrading to a higher flowing turbo inlet manifold (also known as the mouth piece) solves most of the LLY’s infamous overheating problems—along with cooling off intake temps and EGT. The aftermarket version offered by S&B outflows the factory mouth piece by a whopping 78.6 percent. Needless to say, it’s an extremely popular (and invaluable) add-on in the Duramax world.

Roadblock #3: Bottlenecked Downpipe

Another choke point on the LLY can be found on the backside of the turbo in the form of a flow-prohibitive downpipe. We actually feel bad for the Garrett GT3788VA, an otherwise stout  and efficient variable geometry turbo. It’s starved for fresh air on the intake side thanks to the aforementioned OE turbo inlet manifold and it can’t expel exhaust gases adequately on the other side of things thanks to the factory downpipe.

Aftermarket 3-inch Downpipe

Installing a larger downpipe on a Duramax is a bigger deal than you think. With a common aftermarket 3-inch diameter unit in place, LLY owners see as much as a 150-degree F reduction in EGT. Diamond Eye Performance’s downpipe is pictured here, which features CNC-machined end forms for a precise fit to the back of the turbo and it also comes pre-wrapped in thermal header tape. For further improvement in exhaust flow, most Duramax owners add a 4-inch or 5-inch downpipe-back exhaust system at the same time.

Roadblock #4: Factory Y-bridge

Allowing the engine to breathe better is a common theme when upgrading the LLY—but it’s something that yields solid results. Take the restrictive OEM Y-bridge for example, the Y-bridge being what sends boosted air into the cylinder heads. If you open up this passageway to 3-inches in diameter you can gain as much as 30hp. Combine that with the fact that the stock, two-piece Y-bridge is known to leak or even blow apart under elevated boost pressure and you start to realize why so many LLY owners ditch it as soon as possible.

3-inch Y-Bridge Upgrade

Moving forward with the opening up of the LLY’s intake tract, 3-inch Y-bridge systems are highly popular upgrades. They lower intake air temps, provide a 20-30hp bump in horsepower and can be had fairly affordably. One well-known name in this field is WC Fab, or Wehrli Custom Fabrication. Their fabricated 3-inch diameter Y-bridge is a one piece design and comes with a bead rolled on the inlet so the silicone boot won’t slip and the pipe itself won’t distort when the provided T-bolt clamp is cinched down.

Roadblock #5: OEM Turbo, Injectors and CP3

At 530rwhp, give or take, the stock Garrett VGT, common-rail injectors and CP3 high-pressure fuel pump are all out of gas. We’ll admit that an upsized turbo will free up a few more ponies and that slightly larger injector nozzles coupled with spot-on tuning (to keep rail pressure supplied by the stock CP3 happy) can wring 600 to 630rwhp out of an LLY, but all three of these areas need to be upgraded to move the ball forward in a meaningful way.

Blown Head Gaskets

Speaking of moving the ball forward, this deserves an honorable mentioned before we get ahead of ourselves. Due to LLY’s running warmer than other Duramax mills, they’re much more prone to failed head gaskets. A lifetime of running on the hot side and then being forced to fuel harder and experience more than 35 psi of boost thanks to aggressive ECM tuning can push them over the edge. When the heads do finally lift, most performance-minded owners opt for ARP head studs to make sure it never happens again.

Drop-in Turbo Upgrade, Larger Injectors & Stroker CP3

Things get expensive at this point, which is why more than 50-percent of LLY enthusiasts decide that making horsepower in the mid-500’s is plenty. But should you decide to escalate things further, the Duramax aftermarket is more than willing and capable of helping you reach 650, 750, even 1,000rwhp, provided you build the engine first. In this order: start with a rebuilt rotating assembly with stronger rods, go with a 150 to 165-gph lift pump, throw a larger turbo on and then up-size the injectors and install a stroker CP3. Then re-tune and have fun.

Trying to glean more power out of your LLY Duramax without breaking the bank? Check out our budget mods list right here.

It's hard to imagine a sport better suited to the specific strengths of electric vehicles than drag racing. The ability to instantaneously put down massive amounts of torque is a huge advantage for electric motors, especially during a short quarter mile burst that doesn't put much of a strain on the cooling systems required for optimal battery usage.

You may not be surprised to learn that EV drag racing is growing in popularity as the technology behind battery-powered automobiles continues to develop and drop in price. There are national organizations dedicated to running electric-only drag events, manufacturers are starting to bring out factory-backed EV drag packages, and of course grassroots racers are building their own electric street machines that can put up impressive ETs.

Let's take a look at how electric drag cars evolved from rare curiosity to sophisticated front-runners supported by a growing aftermarket of go-fast tuners, vendors, and drivers.

Humble Roots

Electric cars have been in the mix since the beginning of the automotive age, but battery-powered designs eventually lost out among mainstream manufacturers well before America fully embraced the motorized carriage. Still, they put up a good fight in terms of sheer speed, fending off gasoline and steam models in the record books until the mid-1920s. For much of the next 70 years, electric cars would be considered a novelty, one-offs built by hobbyists or experimental designs from mainstream manufacturers, with almost no presence in organized motorsport of any kind.

That began to change in the late 80s and early 90s, when the cost of the batteries required to juice an electric motor, and the electronic technology and software needed to manage a drivetrain setup, began to gently slope into the realm of the hobbyist. Now the same folks who might have once tinkered in the garage on a carbureted street machine could instead afford to swap carbon for electrons.

It was here that the foundations of organized electric drag racing began to be laid. Two men in particular, John Wayland and Roderick Wilde, would parlay their fascination with the potential of electric cars into a group that would gather together like-minded individuals interested in more than just saving a few bucks on gas with their green machines.

Wayland and Wilde had become friends due to their shared interest in the Portland, Oregon electric car scene, as well as their appreciation for speed. The former's Datsun 1200 and the latter's Mazda RX7 were based largely on off-the-shelf forklift engines tuned not so much for range but for performance. In a pre-Prius, pre-Volt world, their preference for EVs was far from mainstream, but by 1997 they had gathered enough interest in the Pacific Northwest to form the National Electric Drag Racing Association.

Momentum Builds, Technology Improves

NEDRA might have started with a mere 50 members, but within two years it had already successfully petitioned the National Hot Rod Association to sanction its cardholders at their events. The helped break down a major barrier between the traditional drag racing world and electric drag cars, which had often encountered resistance or flat-out refusal when attempting to get on-track.

Many of these early racers made use of lead-acid batteries not unlike standard 12-volt designs, which meant that vehicles were often heavily weighed down by their power packs—and delivered meager range as a result. Over the course of the next decade, however, a gradual shift to lithium-ion batteries (made possible, again, by diving technology costs), would see more sophisticated, and lighter-weight electric drag cars start to hit the track.

Another frequent feature of EV dragsters was the use of multiple motors running in tandem to produce as much power as possible—something much simpler to attain with electric power as compared to twin-engine gas or alcohol dragsters. A further advantage for electric drag cars of the time was the ability to redistribute battery weight throughout the chassis, rather than concentrating it all in one spot as is the case with an internal combustion design.

Faster And Faster

As the price of EV technology continued to dive, so did electric drag racing ETs. Although early cars were fast if they could post a quarter mile run in the 13 second range, by 2010 electric drag bikes were below 8 seconds. Less than a decade later cars would join them, with both doorslammers and dragsters posting similar times, and modified street machines from well-known brands like Tesla joining the 7-second club. Even legends of the sport would get involved: currently, NHRA hall of famer 'Big Daddy' Don Garlits holds the record for the fastest (189.04) as well as quickest (7.29) EV pass of all time with his Swamp Rat 38, each set in 2019.

It wasn't long before automakers had taken note of NEDRA's status as an NHRA Alternative Sanction Organization (and SFI + IHRA member), as well as the increased interest from both regular consumers and drag racing fans in the potential of electric motors on the track. This led to the development of in-house electric drag racing platforms intended to show off leadership in the EV space while also demonstrating that, with the right amount of investment, electric cars could keep pace with their fuel-powered counterparts.

Two of the most recent efforts have been the Chevrolet eCOPO Camaro Concept and the Ford Mustang Cobra Jet 1400. The eCOPO debuted at the 2018 SEMA show with 1100 horsepower from a pair of 700-amp electric motors, mated to the same transmission and suspension setup offered by the standard gas-powered COPO drag cars.

Ford's Mustang Cobra Jet 1400 topped the eCOPO's output by 400 ponies when it was released this year. Combined with 1,100 lb-ft of torque, the car is also designed to undercut the Camaro's ET by a full second by posting an 8-second run at a trap speed of 170-mph.

The Next Step In Racing?

Although both the CJ and the eCOPO are prototypes, and have yet to be cleared for the same limited production that each respective company gives to its dedicated fuel dragsters, the bolt-in nature of their EV drivetrains is a strong indicator of just how far the sport has come in a very short period of time. With a wider range of platforms available to those would build electric drag cars, and a vast increase in the number of e-motors and battery designs available on the general market, creativity, more than budget, would seem to the only thing holding back the next generation of EV drag racing talent.

Want to learn more about the Ford Mustang Cobra Jet 1400? We've got all the details right here.

Only 11-percent of drivers check their tires’ inflation pressure on a monthly basis, so it stands to reason that an even smaller percentage bother themselves with making sure their tires remain perfectly balanced. But just like correct inflation pressure, regular tire rotations and precise alignment, periodically balancing your tires is a part of proper tire maintenance. When new, during rotation intervals and certainly any time a vibration is detected, your tires should be inspected for proper balance. With curbed rims, lost counterweights, flat spotting and tire-to-wheel slippage all being common occurrences in everyday driving, it doesn’t take much to disrupt the perfect balance your tire and wheel assemblies had when they were brand-new.

For everything you ever wanted (and needed) to know about balancing, the information below is intended to help you get the best ride quality, longest tread wear and optimum safety out of your tires.

Avoid Imbalance From the Start: Buy Quality Tires

First and foremost, you have to start with a quality tire that possesses sound uniformity. Uniformity refers to how even and round a tire is manufactured. When you combine a tire that has quality uniformity with a good balance job, you’ll benefit from even weight distribution and optimum wear characteristics right from the outset.

What Causes A Tire To Become Out Of Balance?

You’d be surprised at just how easily a tire can become imbalanced. For example, a hard skid in a panic-brake situation can flat spot a tire. With the tire no longer perfectly round, it’s likely to add a vibration to your driving experience. A bent rim or the loss of a counterweight are other common causes of imbalance. Aggressive acceleration or braking can result in tire-to-rim slippage, which also affects balance. Some of the above scenarios aren’t always avoidable in normal driving, which makes it all the more important to check for proper balance anytime you rotate or experience a vibration while driving your vehicle. The photo above was sourced from High Velocity Diesel Performance, whose Ford Excursion was hit by another vehicle and suffered a bent rim (among other damages).

Imbalance Leads To:

It goes without saying that an imbalanced tire yields uncomfortable ride quality, but in addition to the vibration sensation that typically accompanies an out of balance tire the affected tire’s handling characteristics are compromised as well. This includes steering. All it takes is one half of an ounce of weight difference on any given tire to bring about considerable vibration.

Increased Wear

An out of balance tire can lead to increased and uneven tread wear. This is especially true for tires that are improperly inflated or not regularly rotated. However, excessive tread wear can also be traced back to a poor balance job from the tire shop. If left unchecked, uneven wear can produce vibrations that not only worsen over time, but that also increase the chance of the tire blowing out.

Types of Imbalance

We’ve all passed a vehicle on the interstate that was noticeably equipped with out of balance tires and many of us have even experienced tire imbalance through the steering wheel. There are two primary forms of tire imbalance: static and dynamic. In instances of static imbalance, a vertical vibration or hop is present. Dynamic imbalance entails side-to-side vibration or wobbling (which is distinctly felt in the steering wheel). Proper tire balancing can solve and counteract the forces that cause these vibrations, which usually conspire at the same time.

The Balancing Process

On a balancing machine, your tire professional runs each wheel and tire assembly up to high speed in what’s known as the dynamic balance procedure to pinpoint its heaviest point. From there, clip-on counterweights (measured in ounces) are added to the lip of the wheel to redistribute the weight of the assembly evenly. We’ll note that adhesive counterweights are used when clip-on versions can’t be, but are sometimes used in addition to the traditional clip-on counterweights.

Maintaining ‘The Look’ With Inboard Counterweights

To maintain the aesthetics of certain vehicles with aftermarket wheels, many enthusiasts request that the counterweights be installed on the inboard side of the wheel rather than the outside, so long as precise balance can still be achieved. On wheels void of a lip to accommodate a conventional clip-on counterweight or that have delicate finishes, the aforementioned adhesive counterweights can be employed.

Benefits of a Quality Balance Job

A well-executed balancing procedure leads to equal weight and force distribution across the tire and wheel assembly, which eliminates vibration and results in the smooth, comfortable ride we’re all after when driving. In addition to optimum ride quality, a well-balanced set of tires facilitates even tread wear, maximizes fuel economy and leads to a safer, more stable overall driving experience.

Periodic Balancing

This is the one most folks either overlook completely or hardly ever inquire about. For the majority of the tires rolling across America, they’re balanced once in their lifetime. However, proper tire maintenance dictates that tires should be inspected and re-balanced if necessary at each rotation interval. And at the very least, they should be checked for imbalances any time you experience a vibration.

The Perks of Checking Tire Balance

It’s important to know that just because you don’t feel a vibration in the steering wheel doesn’t mean there isn’t one. When a tire is out of balance on a minute level, it can be hard to detect by the seat of your pants. Regular trips onto the balancing machine can catch an imbalance before it becomes a bigger problem. We know you’re busy, but it only takes a few minutes for a competent tire technician to perform a balance test. Think of it as a quick adjustment, an adjustment that will protect your tire investment by making them last as long as you expect them to. Of course, ensuring your tires remain perfectly in balance will guarantee you continue to enjoy a smooth ride and optimal handling as well.

In case you were wondering, there’s a lot more to rotating your tires than meets the eye. Learn about your specific vehicle’s proper inflation pressure, rotation pattern and the best way to keep tabs on tread wear right here.

The coronavirus might have slowed the release of some highly anticipated 2020 vehicles (Ford Bronco Anyone?), but that hasn’t slowed down excitement for some of the cutting-edge equipment headed our way. With the Wrangler now being offered with the 3.0L V6 EcoDiesel, we now have a better idea of what to expect in the soon-to-be-released diesel-powered Jeep Gladiator. In the Wrangler, the compact oil burner is putting out 442 lb.-ft of torque and 260 hp. Backed by an eight-speed automatic, it’s the most powerful and sophisticated powertrain ever placed in the open-top wheeler.

For those in the market for a midsize truck, the diesel option may prove to be worth the wait. Currently, the Gladiator’s fuel economy numbers sit at 16 City and 23 Highway. We’re currently averaging a little over 16 mpg on our 2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon, which is riding on 35-inch-tall Nitto Ridge Grapplers. These numbers are for the engine the 3.6L V6, and the only current engine option. To figure out what the EcoDiesel could net for fuel economy, we looked up the specs for the 2020 Jeep Wrangler EcoDiesel. In the JL, it is slated at an EPA estimated 22 City and 29 Highway. With EPA estimates being nearly identical between the platforms with the 3.6L, it’s a safe bet that the EcoDiesel figures should be close between the Wrangler and Gladiator as well. Thanks to the Gladiators 22-gallon fuel tank, this could mean we are in the works to have a Jeep truck with the potential for netting over 600 miles per tank! This would mean it would supersede the current long-range fuel-efficient off-road champion, the diesel-powered Chevy Colorado ZR2, by over a 130 miles.

For those whose hobbies include long treks into the wilderness, this extra bump in range is fantastic news. With Jeep recently launching the desert-rated Mojave edition for the Gladiator, they now have the go-fast and rock crawling world (Rubicon) sectors covered. However, the one area we haven’t seen any real spin-off packages is with the middle tier package- the Overland. As one of, if not, the fastest growing off-road sector, the car-meets-camping world of overlanding has companies from nearly every camp in the auto industry trying to capitalize on the family friendly adventure appeal. This is why it stands to reason that the next big package to launch from the Jeep camp would be a diesel-powered camping-oriented package that blends features from the Mojave, Rubicon, and of course, Overland model. This would likely be based off of the Overland model and offers major benefits for those looking for a turnkey basecamp. Here is what we’re thinking (and hoping) we’ll see.

EcoDiesel

All signs point to Jeep using the 3.0L EcoDiesel V6 that is found in the 2020 Jeep Gladiator. Pumping out 260 horsepower and 442 lb.-ft of torque, in the Wrangler platform, we could see those numbers bumped up a bit given that the Gladiator has a significantly higher tow rating and larger grille opening. Jeep already told us the towing figures on the diesel-equipped Gladiator would be less than that of the existing gasser, but this is mostly due to the heavier diesel engine. With a 22 City and 29 Highway EPA rating in the Wrangler, the EcoDiesel Gladiator should produce some class-leading fuel economy numbers as well.   

Highline Flares

Currently, the factory highline fender flares are reserved for the Rubicon and Mojave Gladiator models. Overlanding doesn’t require a 40-inch-tall tire. But, having the ability to run a large set of treads with little to no lift is a universally accepted build strategy. This could lead to Jeep offering a highline option for its Overland platform. We’ve found that you can run a 35x11.50R17 Nitto Trail Grappler on the Jeep Gladiator Rubicon without a lift thanks to the highline flares. For those living out of their rig on the weekends, having something closer to the ground will be easier to use overall. So, a highline fender set would be a good play by Jeep.    

Camping Options from Mopar

What if you could order your Gladiator direct from the factor with a roof top tent? How about a full drawer system to organize your gear? There’s a good chance you will be able to do so in the future, making it where you can truly have a turn-key Overland Gladiator that’s adventure ready. Mopar launched an expanded line of add-ons that you can order directly from your local dealer earlier this year for the Wrangler Platform. It only stands to reason the Gladiator will see more Mopar support very soon. The question really becomes, how much of a premium are you willing to pay for this convenience?

Increased Interior Options

Overlanders spend more time in their vehicle than most. While stepping into the Overland-trim Wrangler gets you a bit more interior luxury over the Sport trim, we could see bigger changes coming. If you look at the all-new Mojave Gladiator for example, you’ll find a unique set of seats and stitching throughout. While we don’t think it would be as over-the-top as the Wayout Concept shown here, we could see some material choices and optional accessories that are a step above what’s currently offered.

Expanded Power Group

You need power when you are off the grid. Jeep’s optional bed outlet and built-in switch panel is great for powering up accessories. With the built-in brake controller on the way, we suspect we could see these auxiliary power options expanding. Most people might not know there is already a second battery on all Jeep Gladiators that’s primarily intended for the stop/start feature. Bumping up the size of this battery with the diesel could prove to be an excellent play for the diesel and give Overlander’s a dedicated secondary battery for power needs off the grid. While we’d love to see solar panels on the roof from the factory, we don’t think that’s in the cards just yet.

Dual Sport Suspension

The Mojave Gladiator got 1-inch boost along with some incredible internal-bypass Fox shocks. Given Jeeps established relationship with the performance shock manufacturer, it’s not out of the question to think that an OE adaptation of Fox’s in-cab controlled valving adjusters could make its way into the Gladiator. This could be huge for those hauling extra gear for a weekend in the mountains or simply towing a heavy load.

Gearing

It is pretty well established at this point that if you want to row your own gears, you won’t be doing it with the diesel engine. If that’s fine by you then know that you’ll be getting an eight-speed 8HP75 automatic transmission. We’re seeing that 3.73 differential gearing is the norm for the Wrangler Rubicon with the EcoDiesel, though we hope 4.10s make it over to the truck. Couple the gearing with 442 lb.-ft of torque, we also don’t see the need for a 4:1 transfer case low range. So, the Overland model’s current 2.72:1 low range should be plenty. The big question is will you finally be able to order an Overland with a rear locker?

What It Could Look Like

Jeep has shown us future products before, and we didn’t even know it. It’s something they like to do at the Easer Jeep Safari. Since this EJS was cancelled this year due to the pandemic, we’ll revert back to the last year’s Wayout concept. We image the steel bumper group could be part of this along with some sort of unique step/slider option that would make accessing the roof easier. A factory snorkel option, unique color combos, and more camping-related cues could also be on the horizon. With trucks such as the Chevy Colorado ZR2 Bison competing for the same dollar, there’s now more incentive than ever to offer specialized truck packages. While the Overland currently exist, we think the diesel will finally allow Jeep to ramp up the namesake into an utterly amazing exploration platform. Either way, we are excited for what the diesel is going to bring to the already very versatile Jeep Gladiator.  

Want to see the a more extreme version of an Overland Gladiator? Feast your eyes on the O.G. 40.

The changing of the seasons is a useful reminder that it's time to catch up on your automotive maintenance. The spring and the fall each herald new weather and different driving conditions for the next six or so months, and that often means making sure your vehicle is ready for its upcoming tour of duty out on the road or the track.

Tires are among the most important wear item on your vehicle, and they take more abuse than almost any other component. Fortunately, they're also among the most easy to inspect, which means there's no excuse to not take a good, hard look at your vehicle's rubber now that the spring is giving way to summer.

Why Summer Rubber

What are some of the benefits of going to a summer tire, as opposed to sticking with a traditional all-season? Take the Nitto NT555 G2 as an example. With larger, reinforced treadblocks and a stickier compound (with a treadwear rating of 200), the G2 is better at holding the road during hard acceleration and through tight corners. At the same time, it still cuts through wet asphalt with safety, channeling away water with circumferential grooves.

An all-season tire is a good compromise between cold weather and warm weather performance, but for drivers seeking to maximize traction, comfort, and stability, a summer performance tire like the NT555 G2 is a better bet.

Regardless of which tire you're running, an inspection is a must. Let's take a look at the seasonal tire checklist you should run through at this time of year.

Chunks, Cuts, Bubbles, Gouges

It might seem obvious that one of the first things you should check for when inspecting rubber for the summer season is physical damage to the tire itself. If you live in a warmer area where you can keep your all-terrain or all-season tires mounted throughout the winter, you'll want to check for any type of cuts, gouges, or other deformations of the tire (such as bubbling) that might have occurred during the previous few months

You'll want to look not just at the exterior sidewall, but also the tread of the tire and the interior sidewall as well, which means turning the wheel from side to side up front to get the best inspection angle. At the rear, you may have to jack your vehicle slightly to get a good viewpoint on the inside sidewall. Remember to always support your car with jack stands, and never rely solely on a jack to hold it upright.

If you're swapping from winter tires to summer tires, inspection is a little easier. Make sure that each tire is given a thorough once-over prior to mounting, especially if it was stored inside. While you're at it, make sure the winter rubber is in good shape, too. If not, you'll have a head-start on ordering replacement tires before the colder weather sets in.

Tread Depth Matters

If you live in a very dry part of the country, it's easy to ignore gradual tread wear. After all, the blocks, channels, and sipes cut into the face of a tire only come into use when asked to move water away from the surface of the rubber so that you can maintain grip on a wet road.

That being said, don't be casual about maintaining a safe tread depth when inspecting tires for the summer. Standing water on a road or a sudden rain storm can quickly lead to dangerous driving conditions if your tires are too bald to avoid hydroplaning across a slick surface. The U.S. Department of Transportation pegs its minimal safe depth at 2/32 of an inch, or roughly enough tread to completely cover Lincoln's head when held upside down between the ribs of your tire. Some states even make this the law, and you could be opening yourself up to a ticket at a traffic stop if a police officer notices your tires are unsafe.

Learn To Read Wear

You might notice that your tire wear isn't even across all four tires. Learning to read and understand what uneven wear is telling you can help diagnose problems with your alignment or vehicle suspension before they cause further damage throughout the summer.

If your tire is wearing more on the outside edges than the inside, it's likely a result of under-inflation. Likewise, if the inside is more worn, then over-inflation is typically the culprit. A tire that is worn exclusively on either the inside or the outside indicates an alignment issue, while 'cupping' —patches of uneven wear distributed across a tire—can indicate a suspension problem.

Always remember: if the treadwear bars are showing, or you can see a steel belt peeking through the treadblocks, you should replace that tire as soon as possible.

Remember To Rotate

Rotating your tires can often help even out wear across a set of four, as it balances the stresses of steering, braking, and power delivery better than simply leaving each tire in place until they need to be replaced.

Most rotation schedules call for cross-corner swaps—left-rear tire to the right-front, left-front tire to the right-rear—but this is going to depend on your drivetrain layout and tire size.

Curious to find out more about how alignment can affect tire wear and handling? Check out our alignment basics to get started.

For decades there's been something cool about the police versions of civilian vehicles, with sedans like the Ford Crown Victoria P71 and Chevy Caprice 9C1 becoming favorites among both the officers who drove them and the enthusiasts who would buy the cars after their service careers were over.

These cop-spec vehicles would often have significant upgrades compared to their civilians counterparts, with beefed-up suspension and cooling systems and sometimes extra horsepower under the hood.

And even though most law enforcement agencies have moved away from sedans and to SUVs as their vehicles of choice, these police SUVs continue to pack a lot of the same tricks. Case in point, Chevy's just-debuted 2021 Tahoe Police Pursuit Vehicle.

Based on the all-new 2021 Tahoe that was introduced a few months back, the police version of the new Tahoe packs a lot of those same tricks that have always made police vehicles a cut above their civilian counterparts.

There will actually be two different law enforcement versions of the '21 Tahoe, a Special Service Vehicle designed primarily for off-road situations and Police Pursuit Vehicle designed for highway use.

While both models will be powered by the latest iteration of GM's 5.3 liter V8, the PPV model gets a lot of extra tricks, including Camaro ZL1 rocker covers to improve crank case ventilation and a heavily upgraded cooling system.

Other upgrades include more aggressive suspension tuning for improved handling, a lower ride height, a clutch-type LSD in the rear and a set of six-piston Brembo brakes covered by 20" steel wheels with high performance tires. Naturally it also comes with all of the other interior components including an upgraded wiring harness and auxiliary battery setup. 

From an enthusiast standpoint, the Tahoe PPV might not be a "true" performance vehicle but there's definitely something impressive about all these upgraded bits hiding under a government-issued SUV. 

The Tahoe PPV will begin production in Texas later this year, with deliveries to law enforcement agencies beginning early next year. For the rest of us civilians, we'll have to wait some years before these retired Tahoe PPVs start becoming available at auctions for a discounted price.

Speaking of Chevy PPVs, don't forget about the rare Caprice PPV that now makes for one of the most unusual project car choices around.

If you’ve ever swapped out your stock wheels for aftermarket wheels, you’d know that there is more than one type of lug nut. Maybe you even found out the hard way when realizing your old lug nuts don't fit on your new wheels. Lug nuts vary in size, taper and thread pitch. Depending on the wheel or purpose your lug nut type may vary—so how do you know which ones to use for your application? 

First, let's get to know the different type of lugs nuts.

Hex Nut

The hex nut is the most common type of lug nut. It features a hex shaped head that threads onto the wheel stud to secure the wheel in place. Wheel studs are the threaded studs that stick out of the wheel hub (and if you're a Subaru owner, you've probably broken many wheel studs). Hex nuts come in different styles and vary with the shape required to sit on the wheel properly.

Hex nuts are typically made of steel and chrome plated but you can also find them in lightweight materials such as aluminum (and anodized in different colors) or titanium.

Spherical Seat

Also known as a ball seat lug. These have a hex shaped head and a round/dome shaped end for the part of the lug that makes contact with the wheel. 

Where would you use these?

On wheels with dome shaped lug holes, commonly found on European cars that do not use a lug bolt set up. More on lug bolts later.

Conical Seat

The conical seat is a very common type of lug nut. You can differentiate this style by their cone shaped lug seats which feature a 60 degree taper that self-centers the lug onto the wheel when tightened down. Unlike the spherical seat, conical seats differ with their angled shape. They are often referred to as acorn lug nuts because of their similar appearance. 

Where would you use these?

For aftermarket wheels with 60 degree tapered lug holes. Typically made of steel but could be found made of aluminum or even titanium for racing applications. These are also the type of lug nuts currently used in NASCAR (until NASCAR moves to a single lug nut in 2021) and many other forms of motorsports.

Mag Type with Flat Washer

The mag type has a unique look which features a long thread and a flat washer seat which allows them to sit flush against the wheel. Unlike the spherical or conical seats, mag type sits flat on the face of a wheel.

Where would you use these?

These are likely the type of lug nuts your car came with. The mag type with flat seat washer can be found on many OEM wheel applications with a chrome plated finish.

Tuner Nuts 

A tuner style lug nut features a conical seat with a 60 degree taper but a major differentiating feature is the requirement of a special key/tool to install and remove the nut. Tuner nuts are often much smaller in diameter than other styles of lug nuts. Depending on design, the tuner nut can make a wheel harder to steal by requiring a special key to use, utilize an increased amount of torque when tightening and possibly minimize the chances of stripping a lug nut.

Tuner Nut with Hex Socket

A tuner nut with hex socket features a smooth outside that can not be loosened or tightened with a typical socket. Instead, it requires a special hex socket that fits inside of the nut to install or remove.

Where would you use these?

Although less common these days than the spline drive, the tuner with hex nut would be used in aftermarket wheel applications and for added security. 

Spline Drive

This type features a conical seat with spline grooves along the length of the bolt and require a special tool. Where the key on the tuner nut with hex socket inserts on the inside, the spline drive key fits around the outside grooves of the nut. The requirement of a unique tool reduces the risk of stripping the lug nut and reduces the risk of theft. The Gorilla lug nuts is one of the most popular brands of spline drive lug nuts.

Where would you use these?

Like the tuner nut with hex socket, these are mainly found on aftermarket wheel applications and for added security. Their smaller diameter typically makes them lighter than other types of lug nuts which makes them a good choice for weight conscious track goers.

Open ended

Open-ended lug nuts are threaded the length of the nut and do not have a closed end. This allows you to run the lug nut on longer wheel studs where you may be running a wheel spacer, without worrying about running out of thread on the wheel studs. The longer thread also allows for more contact with the wheel stud.

Where would you use these?

Commonly found in racing applications or when wheel spacers and extended wheel studs are used. 

Lug Bolt

Many European cars use something called a lug bolt. A lug bolt features a threaded stem attached to a tapered head. Unlike a lug nut, where the bolt threads onto the wheel stud that is fixed onto a hub, a lug bolt threads onto the hub. A lug bolt, bolts the wheel and brake rotor directly onto the hub. This makes changing the brake rotor easy but an added hassle of lining up the wheel and brake rotor when mounting wheels/tires.

The seats of a lug bolt very just like a lug nut and can be found with a hex head or tuner style with a spherical or conical seat.

Where would you use these?

These are commonly found on European brands such as BMW, VW, Audi and Mini to name a few. Many owners who tend to switch wheels often usually end up replacing lug bolts with aftermarket wheel stud kits for their ease of use.

Once you know what type of lug nut you need, always be sure to have the correct thread pitch and wheel torque specs. Otherwise the nut may not secure the wheel onto the hub properly. That can lead to cross treaded wheel studs, broken wheel studs or even your wheel falling off the car!

Now that you know what kind of lug nut you need, find out how to torque them down properly.

In 1987 Ford introduced a car that would go on to become not just a sales hit, but a performance icon. I'm talking, of course, about the Mustang 5.0.

By '87 the Fox Body Mustang platform had already been around for a while. but a major refresh with new "aero" styling and some significant mechanical upgrades truly brought the Mustang into the modern era.

The big story with the car came under the hood, where the top of the line Mustang GT now came equipped with Ford's electronically fuel injected "5.0 HO" small block V8. It was an engine that had its roots in the 1960s but had been throughly updated for the modern era making 225 horsepower and 300 pound feet of torque.

These are paltry numbers by today's standards, but this was a very big deal in 1987, after more than a decade of American performance cars being choked down by emissions regulations and outdated technology.

The fully updated 5.0 Mustang was the most capable Mustang since the original muscle car era, and its new fuel injected small block would give birth to a new aftermarket and a start of a new era of American performance.

The Mustang GT was the most visible of the 5.0s with its higher price tag and more aggressive styling, but along with much-improved Mustang GT, the '87 lineup also included a 5.0 Mustang with even better performance and a cheaper price. That car was the Mustang LX 5.0.

The V8-powered Mustang LX had been around prior to this, but for ‘87 it became a masterpiece, combining all the mechanicals of the Mustang GT with the standard LX body and trimmings. 

Not only did it come with the aforementioned 5.0 HO engine, it came with all of the other good stuff including a standard limited slip rear end and a standard five-speed manual or AOD automatic transmission. 

Naturally, the LX 5.0 was priced cheaper than the GT, but that wasn’t the only reason it became popular among enthusiasts and weekend racers. With less equipment and body additions it was also lighter than the GT.

Most importantly, the LX was the only 5.0 Mustang available in the notchback body style. Not only was the notchback lighter than its hatchback counterpart, it also offered improved structural rigidity.

The LX also drew less attention on the street with only its subtle “5.0” badging, dual exhaust pipes and wider tires to distinguish it from the base four-cylinder Mustang.

In terms of history, the ‘87-‘93 period represented not only the last time you could get a V8 in a non-GT Mustang it was also the last time a fixed-roof Mustang was available in two different body styles.

Perhaps not surprisingly, in later years it was actually the LX 5.0 that would prove to be the more desirable choice among many enthusiasts thanks to its lighter weight and “cleaner” look. Like all Fox Body 5.0s, a clean and un-abused LX has become a rarity and they command a premium today.

With understated looks, fantastic performance and a low price the ‘87-‘93 Mustang LX 5.0 was a hit when it was new and will always be considered one of the most important performance Mustangs of all time. We expect the appreciation to only grow as the years go on.

And, while we have plenty of love for the Fox Body, let's not forget the under-appreciated SN95 Mustang that came next.

fiThe 4BT Cummins was designed for commercial and industrial use. Volkswagen’s 1.9L TDI was primarily intended for passenger cars and maximum fuel economy. So why in the world should these polar-opposite I4’s ever be compared in a head-to-head fashion? Believe it or not, these two NVH offenders cross paths on occasion. Usually, it’s in an off-road setting or at a diesel event, but it happens—and there’s a good reason for it. After all, both engines have 500,000-mile durability, simplistic construction and considerable performance potential on their side. This is more than enough to pique the interest of an enthusiast in search of the perfect oil-burner for his or her project.

In Jeeps, Toyotas and half-ton and smaller domestic pickups, the mechanically injected 4BT is a popular swap candidate. Unfortunately, now that the word has gotten out and demand has spiked, it isn’t exactly a cheap find anymore. For instances where swapping an engine like the 800-pound, 3.9L Cummins into place isn’t affordable (or even feasible), the ALH code 1.9L TDI parked under the hood of all those Jettas, Golfs, Passats and New Beetles is worth a look for many a gearhead. Over the years, we’ve seen 1.9L TDI’s in Isuzu Troopers, old Toyotas and even mini rod tractor pullers (more on that below).

For more on how these two clatter boxes stack up against each other in terms of strength, reliability, affordability and availability, keep scrolling.

The Industrial-Strength 4BT Cummins

If you tuned in for our last small diesel comparison, you know that the 4BT Cummins is constructed the same way the legendary 6BT is (the 5.9L). Forged-steel I-beam connecting rods with 7/16-inch rod cap bolts, 4.02-inch bore cast-aluminum and direct injection pistons with massive, 1.57-inch diameter floating piston pins, a forged-steel crankshaft with a 4.72-inch stroke and 14mm main cap bolts all speak to the robustness of the B-series line. Like its big brother, the 4BT’s tough-as-nails construction is precisely why its horsepower rating can easily be tripled without worrying about bending a rod, popping the head gasket or having to upgrade anything in the bottom end.

Cast-Iron Cylinder Head & Six Head Bolts Per Cylinder

The simplistic nature of the 4BT continues in its conventional crossflow style cylinder head. Like the block, it’s cast from gray iron. The head utilizes two overhead valves per cylinder, induction-hardened valve seats, ductile iron rockers and features exceptional head-to-block clamping force thanks to its use of six head bolts per cylinder.

Fixed Geometry Turbo & Mechanical Injection

While Volkswagen’s ALH-code 1.9L TDI boasts variable geometry turbocharging and some electronic control over the injection system, the 4BT is about as low-tech as it gets. Its Holset turbo is a fixed geometry unit and the Bosch VE distributor style, axial-piston injection pump found on most versions of the engine is completely mechanical. This means no vacuum lines running to the VGT actuator (the case with the VW) that eventually crack and leak, and no waiting around for the ECM to tell the injection pump when to fuel. While the turbo’s response may not be as quick and the fueling as precise as the VW’s, there are virtually no electronics to monkey with other than the fuel shut-off solenoid and the starter.

Gear-Driven Accessories (Pro) & No Emissions Equipment (Pro)

A major strongpoint with the 4BT, and something that once again points back to its commercial-grade roots, is the fact that the camshaft is gear-driven—along with the injection pump, oil pump and accessory drive system. And not only that, the gear train is made up of six heat-treated, ductile iron helical gears. As for emissions equipment, this is perhaps where the 4BT shows its age most (after all, it was introduced in 1983). There is no exhaust gas recirculation system to speak of, as the rather lax (by today’s standards) NOx requirements of the early 1980s were met through fine-tuning of the injection system and with proper turbocharger sizing.

Volkswagen’s 1.9L TDI (ALH)

It might’ve produced a microscopic 90 hp and only 155 lb-ft of torque when it left the factory, but it was built to take a whole lot more. The Volkswagen ALH code 1.9L TDI diesel offered in ’99.5-’03 Jettas, Passats, Golfs and New Beetles isn’t exactly a Cummins, but it is truly the little engine that could. The block is cast from gray iron, the rotating assembly entails a die-forged steel crankshaft and forged-steel connecting rods tied to cast-aluminum pistons with shallow valve pockets (a common practice on high-speed diesel engines). Horsepower can be doubled on the factory bottom end with little (if any) trade-off in durability.

The Cheap(er) Option

As for price point, the TDI is generally more attractive than the 4BT, with running take-out VW mills going for anywhere from $700 to $1,100 and a 4BT costing between $1,500 to $3,500 depending on its condition and where it’s located. Complete, rebuilt Volkswagen long-blocks range from $2,000 to $3,500 depending on the builder, while rebuilt short-blocks range from $1,500 to 2,500. By comparison, having a 4BT long-block rebuilt by a quality shop can crest $3,500 in no time.

Cast-Aluminum Head & Four Head Bolts Per Cylinder

The TDI’s cast-aluminum cylinder head houses the engine’s single overhead cam (SOHC), which actuates one intake valve and one exhaust valve per cylinder through the use of bucket tappets. Unlike the 4BT Cummins’ head, the VW’s is of a non-crossflow design. Fresh air enters the head through a cast-aluminum intake manifold and exhaust leaves it through a cast-iron exhaust manifold—both of which are located on the same side of the engine. Also unlike the 4BT, which employs six fasteners to attach the head to the block, the TDI relies on four head bolts to perform the same job.

Electronically-Controlled Injection Pump, Mechanical Injectors

In what essentially amounts to an electronic version of the VE found on the 4BT Cummins, the Bosch VP37 injection pump used on the 1.9L TDI is in charge of pressurizing low-pressure fuel and sending it to the injectors. Unfortunately, the VP37 isn’t aided by a factory lift pump in Volkswagen applications, but it doesn’t seem to hinder performance—even when enthusiasts double the ALH engine’s power output. The job of distributing high-pressure diesel into each direct injection piston’s fuel bowl is left to pop-off style injectors equipped with 5-hole nozzles.

Variable Geometry Turbo

It’s primitive by today’s electronically controlled and actuated variable geometry turbochargers, but the Garrett VNT-15 aboard the 1.9L TDI is still light-years ahead of the fixed geometry unit bolted to the 4BT Cummins. Its VGT functionality is vacuum-actuated, which can lead to failed operation in the event of a vacuum leak, but on a positive note the VNT-15 can support as much as 170 hp. And unlike many variable geometry turbochargers on the OEM market, it’s known to be very reliable and durable—so long as it’s exercised on occasion (so the turbine vanes don’t stick) and kept in the 20-psi of boost range.

Cons: Timing Belt & EGR

Of the few downsides the Volkswagen 1.9L TDI has, its overhead cam, injection pump, water pump and tensioner are all belt-driven rather than gear-driven. Obviously, the timing belt carries an inevitable service interval, which varies quite a bit between model years (40,000 miles on early engines with automatic transmissions on up to 100,000 miles on ’03 model years). On the emissions side of things, the TDI is equipped with exhaust gas recirculation (EGR). And while its EGR system isn’t prone to failure, the eventual buildup of soot, oil and carbon will cause enough of an airflow restriction into the cylinder head that performance will suffer. Sticking EGR valve and cracked EGR cooler issues also tend to surface at some point, but usually on higher mileage engines.

Durable and Simplistic—But Best Known For Its Fuel Economy

One of the reasons the ALH is so highly sought after, other than its relative mechanical simplicity and long-term durability, is its uncanny ability to sip fuel. Tales of hyper-miling to 55-60-mpg are common and daily commuters are known to see anywhere from 45 to 50-mpg on the regular. From a fuel economy standpoint, many believe Volkswagen had its diesel-powered cars perfected during the ’99.5-’03 time frame. While the 1.9L TDI definitely had a lot to do with it, part of this platform’s fuel efficiency magic was the fact that the cars themselves were featherweights, the Jetta shown here only weighing 3,000 pounds, along with measuring just 57 inches tall.

Performance Applications

Similar to the 4BT Cummins, the ALH TDI engine is heavily supported by a thriving aftermarket. Injector nozzle, turbocharger and ECM tuning upgrades can boost the 1.9L beyond 150hp with relative ease, and 200hp or more has been pulled off on countless occasions while retaining the factory rotating assembly. With more extensive work (rods, better crank, cam, valve relieved pistons, larger injection pump), 300 hp is achievable, but for one of the most extreme examples of what a 1.9L TDI can do, look no further than the 350 to 400hp version pictured above. Pulling Crew Ostfriesland of northern Germany built its TDI to power a mini rod tractor puller and it’s an absolute beast. A big single turbo, a P-pump (ironically enough, it might even be a Bosch P7100 from a 4BT application) and custom injectors have made it a contender in one of tractor pulling’s neatest classes.

For a little Cummins on Cummins crime, check out this comparison between the 4BT and the R2.8 crate engine.

Last year I got a chance to drive the Veloster N and I absolutely loved it. It was fun to drive and made all the right sounds. Although, if I had to point out a weak point, I would say it was the transmission. Compared to the Civic Type R’s manual, the Veloster N’s felt a little sloppy—although not a fair comparison, since Honda is known for making some of the best manuals in the industry. 

I felt that the Veloster N was one performance car that could actually be made better with an auto. Not that many people were complaining about the Veloster N's transmission, its like Hyundai listened to my thoughts and for 2021 they will be adding an 8 speed wet dual clutch transmission to the Veloster N. 

C8 Corvette, Nissan GT-R, Porsche 911…and Veloster N DCT?

What to the cars listed above have in common with the Veloster N? They might not share the same price range but they all share the same type of transmission. In fact, the C8, GT-R and many of the fastest Porsches, Lamborghini's and Ferrari's do not come with a manual option. As performance oriented as they are, they are only available in DCT.

DCT might lack a clutch pedal but don’t associate it with the same automatic transmission from something like a Ram 1500. For years DCT was typically reserved for the most high tech sports cars for its ability to change gears faster than any human can shift a manual transmission. That tech is trickling down market and although the N DCT isn’t the cheapest DCT equipped car you can buy in America, it will be the cheapest DCT equipped enthusiast car you can buy when it hits dealers this fall. The next enthusiast car that comes close to the Veloster N’s base price of $27k is the VW Golf R at $40k.

Compared to the manual N, the DCT hits 0-60 1/10th of a second slower at 5.6 seconds. The truth in that is the manual's 0-60 time was conducted by a professional driver. Your everyday commuter (you and I) are likely to reach 0-60 in a slightly slower time. Because the DCT can shift faster than any human can, it will get to 60 mph in 5.6 seconds more consistently with less driver dependent variables.

Driving a real life video game

If you have a racing sim rig or have played Gran Turismo or Forza, sitting behind the wheel of the Veloster N DCT shouldn’t feel foreign. Equipped with gear shift paddles behind the steering wheel and driving mode controls on the face of the steering wheel, gamers should feel right at home with all the important controls.

Hyundai’s press release even says, “The N DCT comes with video game like features that enhance driving fun.” These features (naturally starting with N) add to the driving experience of the Veloster N.

• N Grin Shift (NGS) increases torque by 7% by allowing turbo overboost and maximizes transmission response for 20 seconds—performance that is certain to induce “driver grin.” The electric Porsche Taycan has a similar feature but their overboost only lasts 2.5 seconds. 

• N Power Shift (NPS) a feature that engages when the car accelerates for more than 90% of throttle, thereby mitigating any reduction in torque by using upshifts to deliver maximum power to the wheels. This gives the driver a responsive feeling of dynamic acceleration when shifting.

• N Track Sense Shift (NTS) a feature that knows when road conditions are optimal for dynamic driving and activates automatically, selecting the right gear and shift timing just like a professional race car driver to provide optimal performance.

Features like these sound like they belong in a car costing at least twice as much. The N DCT should feel more like driving the Veloster N TCR race car than the manual transmission equipped version.

Light and Lit 

Just like how the Porsche 911 GT3 offers optional lightweight bucket seats, N DCT has its own lightweight bucket seat option.

Called the N Light Sport Buckets, these seats weigh 4.4 lbs less and feature aggressive bolstering to really keep you in place through a corner. Aside from their racier design, they can be identified by an illuminated N logo that is activated with the interior lighting.

More Fun for Everyone

The added option of a DCT will allow more people to experience the N. It an incredibly fun car to drive but was limited to some because it was not offered with an automatic transmission.

To my surprise, there are many car enthusiasts out there who did not know how to drive stick. I thought it was a trend with younger drivers but I've also noticed drivers of all ages preferring auto over manual. I guess it's a sign of the times. But if this will help increase sales and lead to more N branded performance cars, I am all for it - whether it comes with two or three pedals. 

Interested in the Veloster N? Learn 5 things it does better than the Civic Type R! 

When the Dodge Stealth appeared in showrooms in the early 1990s it wasn't just a primo example of Chrysler leveraging its partnership with Mitsubishi to rebadge a world-class sports car for pennies on the dollar. It was also a chance for the general public to sample a range of startlingly advanced driving technologies that would eventually have a major impact on the supercar world.

In fact, it's could be argued that as impressive as the Stealth and its Mitsubishi 3000 GT cousin was in terms of power (from an underrated twin-turbo V6 that scooted the cars from 0-60 in less than five seconds), the real wow factor was in the details. The pan-Pacific collaboration was a showcase for equipment and concepts that would eventually end up in some of the most advanced exotic automobiles every produced, all of which continue to form the backbone of the modern sports car experience.

Although it may not have pioneered each and every one of its eyebrow-raising features, it would for the first time bring them all together in a package that would foreshadow the future of high end automotive performance How clairvoyant was the Dodge Stealth in predicting the automotive future? Let's take a look at the highlights.

Four-Wheel Steering

From 1991 to 1994 the Dodge Stealth R/T Turbo model included a four-wheel steering system that was powered by the vehicle's rear differential. At speeds below 35 mph, there was no movement of the back wheels—you could crank the fronts all you wanted and still have the trailing axle stay ramrod-straight. Above that speed, it provided up to 1.5 degrees of deflection in line with the direction of the fronts, which contributed to improved stability in corners and when changing lanes on a highway.

The Stealth's four-wheel steering came on the heels of both Honda and Nissan having tried their own passive and active versions of the same during roughly the same time period. After the Japanese economic bubble burst, however, this feature would largely disappear from the high performance scene, to be revived briefly by Chevrolet and GMC's heavy-duty pickup platform before once again going dormant.

Today four-wheel steering has made a measurable comeback, with more than twenty sports cars and sedans available with the feature. Ferrari, Lamborghini, Porsche, and Mercedes-Benz have all implemented 4WS on their various high performance platforms, while BMW, Cadillac, and Audi have done the same for their luxury sedans.

All-Wheel Drive

By now, all-wheel drive has become so commonplace that it raises more eyebrows when a performance car doesn't offer it as an option. Back in the 1990s, however, the only automaker that was truly on the AWD wagon was Subaru—with its, uh, wagons—and Audi, which was just breaking through into the luxury space with the Quattro.

In terms of sports cars, aside from much more expensive Porsche 911 Turbo nothing in the Dodge Stealth's class could be had with all-wheel drive (other than its 3000 GT counterpart, of course). Chrysler/Mitsubishi also lead the import AWD charge, too, with the Eagle Talon and the Mitsubishi Eclipse both featuring the technology.

The list of modern all-wheel drive sports cars is as long as your arm, and growing by the day as automakers flock to its ability to manage traction in the face of soaring horsepower. Like the Stealth R/T Turbo, many of them also feature a rear-axle torque bias in order to present more natural handling characteristics and fight against understeer.

Electronically-Controlled Suspension

One of the most sophisticated features of the Dodge Stealth was its electronically-controlled suspension system. It allowed for variations in damping based on information about vehicle speed, acceleration and deceleration, as well as G forces, taking input not just from the road but also the driver's use of the throttle and brake pedals.

This was cutting edge stuff at the time. Car companies had been falling over themselves throughout the 80s to come with 'drive modes' for their various suspension systems, with electronic controls that delivered comfort when cruising but responsiveness in the corners being the holy grail. The Dodge Stealth's shocks could adjust rebound in real-time to offer a trio of settings ranging from Soft to Medium to Hard, using a motor inside the strut to regulate the flow of hydraulic fluid.

This technology would continue to be refined and installed on almost every exotic automobile from the 90s on to the present day, along the way trickling down into even the most modest sporty compacts seeking to satisfy demanding modern drivers.

Tunable Exhaust

It may seem like almost every sports car zipping by on the street now cackles out its tailpipes with a carefully-programmed blast of backfire and aggression. In the 1990s, however, you had to tune your exhaust the old fashioned way with piping, mufflers, and resonators - unless you owned a Dodge Stealth.

The Stealth was one of the first cars to offer an exhaust system that could be actively tuned by the driver from inside the cockpit. By providing control over its valving, the R/T Turbo's exhaust could be set to Tour mode for quiet commuting, or Sport mode for a more raucous note.

Strangely, very few car companies would follow Dodge and Mitsubishi's lead with this feature, and it even disappeared from the Stealth and 3000 GT when the mid-decade refresh came along. This would be another piece of tech that, like four-wheel steering, would lie dormant for many years before making a startling resurgence.

Bonus: Active Aero

This last point is a bit of a cheat. The Dodge Stealth never came with active aerodynamics, as Mitsubishi chose to hold that back for its flagship 3000 GT VR4 model. Still, the 3000 GT is the same platform as the Stealth, and it's worth noting that there was a non-exotic in the 1990s that could be had with all of the above, plus a front splitter and a rear spoiler that would tilt at different angles above 45 mph to improve downforce.

All of this happened way before Porsche started popping up rear wings on the back of the 911 or the Boxster, Lamborghini began directing air via flaps on the Aventador, or McLaren started boosting the wing on the P1 in 'Race Mode.'

Want to find out more about how sophisticated the Stealth was for its time? Check out this complete profile of the most advanced 'American' car of the 1990s.

We recently posted a story about the basics of lowering trucks and thought it was fitting to go beyond by explaining how some trucks are able to sit flat on the ground. Many of the vehicles we’ve featured on this page are so low that some people think they don’t function. That is a bit true as they can’t really drive like that, but with the help of an adjustable suspension system, these vehicles can lay low when parked and raise up to move around.

Although adjusting the height of a vehicle was popularized with the introduction of hydraulics on lowriders, truck enthusiasts prefer airbags. In the lowrider scene, hydraulic suspensions are a quick way to make a car go up and down and even hop on command. Well, custom trucks are more about cruising low than getting airborne and airbags are a better way of getting there.

These systems use compressed air to inflate rubber "bags" that replace conventional springs, which have a fixed height. To drop a vehicle with this setup, the air is released from the system and the bag deflates to compress the suspension. Airbags also provide a smoother ride as long as they are used in combination with shock absorbers to prevent a vehicle from bouncing vigorously. They can be also be very reliable as long as they are mounted away from hot components like an exhaust and sharp objects that might puncture them.

1. Airbags

Here is what a typical airbag looks like with a rubber bellows implemented for adjustability. Slam Specialties is one of the leading airbag providers and this example shows the solid upper and lower parts that are used for mounting locations. There is a port located up top so it can be plumbed for its supply of compressed air.

A variation to traditional airbags is the ShockWave produced by the folks at Ridetech. These are a great way to simplify installation as the airbag is integrated with a tuned shock. Though they are limited on how much height adjustment they provide versus regular airbags, ShockWaves hold up better for vehicles with high performance engines.

2. Accessories

Airbags require compressed air in order to function and that means there are a few other parts that must be installed along with them. They need a steady supply of air from a reserve and most people use single or dual 5-gallon tanks to meet the demands of a system. Filling the tanks is done with compressors and it’s a good idea to incorporate water traps to prevent corrosion from condensation that may develop.

To regulate airflow to the bags, a set of valves are required, which will need to be managed by a pressure monitoring system or a controller like the Slam Specialties MC.2. These accessories are available from many distributors like AVS, Lowrider Depot and Switch Suspension.

3. Integration

The easiest way to swap in a set of airbags is to purchase or fabricate mounting equipment. If you have a coil front suspension, the springs can be removed to allow for an airbag to go in. The preferred method for a rear suspension is to add a multi-link system.

For older trucks that are a bit more difficult to modify, there are companies like Porterbuilt that offer complete front and rear kits. These products are easy enough for the DIY builder to install in a garage or driveway with a minimal number of tools. They are also better designed for tucking large wheels and providing modern drivability.

4. Full Chassis

A common problem for those working on classic trucks is rust and worn out pieces. Also, old frame rails were never designed to handle modern components and are usually tired. To really get the most out of a truck, a new chassis will get it there. Most of the offerings come with all modern components including rack and pinion steering for a better driving experience.

Though there are many options when ordering a full chassis, these systems are designed to bolt up to existing mounting points on specific bodies. Making the switch takes a bit of labor but there is very little guess work with a new chassis. Some of our recommended chassis builders include GSI Machine and Fabrication, the Roadster Shop and Scott’s Hotrods ‘n Customs.

5. Body Modifications

The latest trend in slammed trucks is to add air suspensions along with 20-inch plus wheel and tire combos. Since trucks were not originally intended to tuck large rolling stock, truck bodies usually have to be modified. Yes, the inner fenders can simply be cut open to make room for them, but open spaces will lead to road grime getting flung everywhere.

For those that have metal working skills, trailer fenders can be used to make new inner fenders to cover openings. There are also companies like Slosh Tubz, which make prefabricated pieces to fill the void. They can also be finished off to compliment the rest of the vehicle. Once installed, an airbagged vehicle can look good rolling and shock all when completely slammed on the ground.

Click here to read about the 8 different ways to lower a vehicle.

Can a vehicle be over-the-top and understated at the same time? We think so. Case and point is Offroad Power Product’s latest build creation- Spartacus. We’ve learned over the years that the OPP crew takes its builds seriously and are not afraid of pushing the limits of each on the trail. When we first caught wind of the company’s 2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon build, we were excited to see which direction they would go.

We’ve seen some pretty incredible overland projects roll out of their Spokane, Washington, headquarters in the past. So, we had a feeling that might be the category this Jeep would fall into. However, these guys are always pushing forward and delivered our favorite Gladiator build to date. Instead of roof top tents and countless knickknacks bolted all over the place, the OPP crew decided to go with a very tastefully done ride that blends a proven low center-of-gravity stance with 707 pavement-ripping ponies under the hood.

Yes, my friends, this Gladiator is powered by a 6.2L Mopar V8 Hellcat crate engine. When it originally showed up at the 2019 SEMA Show with 40-inch-tall Nitto Trail Grapplers and stock axles, we were skeptical about just how reliable this build would be with that kind of power under the hood. Thankfully, our worries were put to rest when we found out the original two-week build time didn’t leave enough time for the Dynatrac ProRock Elite Series axle package to get bolted underneath. Of course, that didn’t stop the team from laying the Hellcat hammer down before the axle swap.

Though we had hoped to get you a full video breakdown on the OPP Gladiator at the 2020 Easter Jeep Safari, COVID-19 would see to it that couldn’t happen. Thankfully, our friends at Offroad Power Products are handy behind the camera and got us some updated shots of Spartacus. We were looking forward to showing you this Gladiator in action soon, but until then, we’re bringing you the details in the feature below.

It Begins

Offroad Power Products had a build plan before it ever took delivery of its 2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon. This meant they could jump straight into the build as soon as they got it in the shop. As a retailer of all off-road things worth having, this would serve as a company billboard of sorts for the brand.

Hellcat

Aside from the vinyl wrap, the first major upgrade the Gladiator received was in the form of a Hellcat crate engine conversion via America’s Most Wanted. Along with the supercharged Hemi V8, a stronger eight-speed transmission from a Ram truck was bolted behind the 6.2L. While low range isn’t as much of a necessity with 650 lb-ft of torque on tap, OPP has plenty of gear reduction on hand with the Rubicon’s original NVG 241 OR transfer case.

Suspension

One of the first companies to get a jump on the Gladiator suspension was JKS Manufacturing. The 3.5-inch J-Spec kit would be paired with Fox 2.5 remote-reservoir shocks with DSC adjusters. This system retains the factory control arm mounting points and offers a nice balance of ride control on and off the road.  

Axles

If you’re going to pump out big power, and run a 40-inch-tall tire, you are going to need an axle set strong enough to get the power to the ground reliably. That’s why OPP ditched the stock axle set for a Dynatrac ProRock XD60 front axle and ProRock 80 rear. These full-float axles were fit with ARB Air Lockers and 5.38 differential gears. Feeding the massive axle set are drivelines from Tom Woods.

A Better Approach

Keeping the path clear for the 40-inch Grapplers is a stubby series aluminum front bumper from GenRight. Of course, just in case things don’t go according to plan, the Warn Zeon 10-S winch is there to help.

Fender Chop

While the factory highline fenders help with running a large tire with a minimal amount of lift, in order to fully cycle the 40’s with only 3.5 inches of lift, more fender mods were necessary. Thankfully, the Rubicon models have a two-piece fender that allows you to remove the bottom half. With the lower portion removed, OPP used Artec Industries fender brackets to add some rigidity back to the flare. Up front, GenRight inner fender liners were used to protect the Hellcat, while allowing it to expel heat.  

Lighting

The factory LED lighting group provides ample on-road illumination, but Spartacus can really light the way on the trail thanks to a set of Baja Designs LP6 lights. If they don’t need as bright of a blast from the amber-tinted LEDs, they can always switch on the Baja Designs S1 Ditch Lights mounted at the cowl.

Bump In The Back

Out back, you’ll find another aluminum bumper upgrade courtesy of GenRight. This setup allows the truck to retain the stock Rubicon bed guards and factory hitch. As was the case with the front, both bumpers got a black finish.

Battle Ready

The Offroad Power Products team never skips leg day. Wrapping around a set of 17x9 Battle Born beadlock wheels are the most proven mud-terrain radials on the market—the Nitto Trail Grappler. This 40x13.50R17 has been a go-to for the OPP crew as the tire’s capability in the dirt doesn’t translate to an on-road sacrifice. At the end of the day, the massive mud-terrain radials had an excellent track record of rolling true and going the distance in more ways than one.

Inside

Aside from the OD Green Bartact seat covers and Innovative JK Products under seat air compressor mount, the interior of the truck remains mostly stock. While there are few green accent pieces, this extremely modified, yet wildly understated approach Offroad Power Products took to the build is something we can appreciate in a sea of over-the-top builds.

On The Trail

We’ve been on the trail plenty of times in the past with the OPP crew and know these guys do more than talk the talk. We love that this Gladiator has a modest lift height and a dream-list powertrain. We’re sure there’s more add-ons to come, but as it sits, it’s just about perfect. When it comes to less is more, this truck nails it.

Digging this Gladiator? Then you’ll definitely want to check out this EVO-Built Jeep Truck.

While ’01-’10 Duramax engines share a lot of things in common and experience many of the same hurdles in making horsepower, these power plants are all a tad different in their own ways. The slight differences from year to year (or RPO code to RPO code) stem from GM’s attempt to better its V8 diesel on the OEM level—with most changes making each new and improved Duramax even more potent than the one before it. For instance, the LBZ Duramax offered in ’06 and ’07 employed a common-rail fuel injection system very similar to the one used on the LLY, but the LBZ debuted a higher pressure version (26,000 psi vs. 23,200 psi). To this day, aftermarket CP3 pumps for Duramax applications are based on LBZ units. The LBZ also benefits from added meat in the main bearing areas of the block, stronger rods and a more robust (six-speed) Allison transmission.

But even though the six-speed Allison is tougher than the five-speed unit it replaced, it’s still not strong enough to handle that 500rwhp tune in your arsenal. Like the LB7 and LLY that came before it, you have to prep the Alli to handle big power ECM calibrations. After that, the familiar problem of addressing the squished turbo downpipe should be addressed with a larger diameter alternative. Then it’s time to add a lift pump and ditch the restrictive factory Y-bridge—the difference here could be 20 to 40 hp, plus better drivability and reliability for that expensive injection system. As you move into the 530rwhp range, you’ll discover that the LBZ’s performance potential is virtually identical to the LLY’s, which also means the stock turbo, injectors and CP3 will all have to be upgraded in order to take things to the next level.

Roadblock #1: Allison Transmission

Though the six-speed rendition of the Allison 1000 transmission (which debuted alongside the LBZ in 2006) is stronger than the five-speed used in conjunction with the LLY and LB7, it still has its limits in factory form. Whereas you can send roughly 90 hp over stock through the five-speed Allison, long-term , the six-speed version can handle 120 hp over the factory rating, long-term. While this is a step in the right direction, most aggressive tuning files add more than 200 hp to the equation.

Built Allison = The Only Way to Enjoy Added Horsepower

So what does all of the above mean? You guessed it, you still have to pull the Allison, tear it down and rebuild it with better parts if you want to have your cake and eat it, too. The burnt C3’s pictured above came out of a stock six-speed, which had only been exposed to additional horsepower for 11,000 miles. The truck, an ’06 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD, was making 460rwhp and 850 lb-ft of torque (and the driver was definitely enjoying himself), but the damage had already begun. For a quality aftermarket Allison build, he turned to LinCo Diesel Performance, which offers a Stage 2 street and tow Allison for a budget-minded $3,699 and that’s rated for 650rwhp.

Roadblock #2: Factory Downpipe

Not unlike the LLY, the LBZ Duramax left the factory with a highly restrictive downpipe hanging off the back of the Garrett GT3788VA variable geometry turbocharger (VGT). The oval-shaped, bottlenecked downpipe is fine for stock power levels, but it limits exhaust flow out of the turbo significantly once the engine is tuned. This means elevated exhaust gas temperature (EGT) and a harsh working environment for the turbine side of the Garrett turbo.

Larger Downpipe & Aftermarket Exhaust System

Utilizing the same turbo platform as the LLY (the aforementioned Garrett GT3788VA), the same 3-inch aftermarket downpipe is used. And just like the LLY, a tuned LBZ’s exhaust gas temperature can drop as much as 150 degrees F by installing one. Hint #1: the downpipe fitment is the same on all ’04.5-’10 engines (LLY, LBZ and LMM, respectively). Most LBZ owners opt to upgrade to a full 4-inch or 5-inch exhaust system at the same time the 3-inch downpipe goes in, which provides further EGT reduction. Hint #2: exhaust systems for the ’01-’04 LB7 will fit all ’01-’10 Duramax trucks, minus a few subtle tweaks.

Roadblock #3: No Lift Pump

We know this would technically be a roadblock for all ’01-’16 Duramax mills, but the fact that these engines didn’t leave the factory with a lift pump supplying fuel to the CP3 injection pump is a definite drawback—and one that leaves horsepower on the table. Granted, there is a gear pump on the backside of the CP3 (pictured above), but it’s not enough, especially when you’ve nearly doubled the engine’s power output via tuning. Aside from the performance hinderance, the absence of a lift pump can force the CP3 to live its life without ever seeing adequate low-pressure fuel supply.

Electric Lift Pump

In our time spent around chassis dynos, we’ve seen more than our fair share of Duramax-powered GM’s—with built transmissions, quality EFI Live tuning, but no lift pump—lay down 490 to 499rwhp. The simple addition of an aftermarket electric lift pump, be it an in-tank unit or a comprehensive, all-in-one system mounted along the frame rail, can bring another 10 to 30 hp into the equation. In addition to helping your Duramax break into 500rwhp territory, an aftermarket lift pump adds longevity to your CP3 injection pump and injectors.

Roadblock #4: Restrictive Y-Bridge

Just when you think you’re on the path to 530rwhp or a little more, a pesky intake side restriction kills some of the fun. Once again, it’s the Dmax’s old foe: the airflow-squandering factory Y-bridge. Comparable to the LLY and even the LB7, much of the piping here measures 2-inches and change in diameter, which proves to be a major bottleneck when the VGT is producing 10 to 15 psi more boost than stock. Its two-piece design is also prone to boost leaks and even blowing apart under elevated boost pressure.

High Flow Y-Bridge

To increase the air volume rushing into the cylinder heads, a 3-inch diameter Y-bridge is the way to go. Combined with a 3-inch diameter cold-side and hot-side intercooler pipe, the entirety of the LBZ’s intake tract is opened up, resulting in as much as a 30hp gain. A 3-inch Y-bridge mod is also conducive to lowering EGT and improving throttle response.

Roadblock #5: Stock Turbo, Injectors and CP3

The LBZ-specific version of the Garrett GT3788VA checks in a hair smaller than the version found on the LLY, but the LBZ is still capable of producing 500 to 530rwhp before it’s out of air. Unfortunately, the LBZ’s stock injectors are maxed out at this point, too. While the CP3 might be able to maintain rail pressure at this power level, even a moderate injector upgrade (such as a 30-percent larger nozzle upgrade) could upset the balance.

Upgrade the Turbo First, Then Go After the Fuel

It’s no secret that the LBZ responds very well to airflow mods, and this is why a drop-in turbo upgrade can free up 20 to 40 more ponies with the stock injection system still in the mix. On to the fuel side of things, and because an injector upsizing might not yield a solid return on investment due to the CP3 not being able to keep up, it’s best to bite the bullet and install a stroker CP3 (or dual CP3’s) at the same time you upgrade your injectors. But before you do all of that, you need to begin considering the installation of head studs.

Draw the Line at 650rwhp (Or Plan an Engine Build)

We would be remiss if we failed to warn you about the LBZ’s biggest weak link. If you’ve gotten to the point where you’ve upgrade the transmission, added a lift pump, improved the airflow in and out of an upgraded turbo, and thrown larger injectors, a bigger CP3 and head studs at the engine, the factory pistons may be at risk of cracking. The general consensus for street-driven, LBZ-powered GM’s is to limit their output to 650rwhp or less. Go beyond that and you’re playing with fire.

Find out why the LBZ is our favorite Duramax of all time right here.

Even with the dominance of SUVs and crossovers as the family haulers of choice, there remains a dedicated fanbase of the minivan and its unmatched practiaclty for hauling people and other things.

So this week when Toyota debuted its new 2021 Sienna minivan, the followers of van life had a lot to be excited about. A full redesign of the Sienna has been a long time coming, with the current model first appearing for the 2011 model year, and it looks to be worth the wait.

Not surprisingly, the new Sienna rides on a version of the same Toyota TNGA platform that underpins all of the brand's recent models including the Camry, RAV4 and Highlander And despite being aimed at families, there's been a lot of work put into the new Sienna to make it sleeker and more attractive than any minivan has the right to be.

Toyota says the styling of the new Sienna was inspired by the the Shinkansen bullet trains of Japan, but we also see a lot of influence from other Toyota models including the Supra. This is particularly evident in the flowing rear quarter panels and taillamps.

Under the hood there's a big departure from the outgoing Sienna, which uses a 3.5 liter V6 as its only engine. For 2021 all Siennas will be hybrids, powered by 2.5 liter electric-assisted setup making 243 hp. Toyota says it will get 33 miles to the gallon in combined driving, putting it ahead of the minivan pack by far. 

Additionally, for those looking for all-weather capability and improved handling the 2021 will also be available with AWD in the form of a rear-mounted electric motor, just like what's currently used on the RAV4 and Highlander Hybrids. 

The interior of the Sienna also gets some major changes, including a new center console that gives it a much sleeker and more like car-like appearance than the old model.

Don't fear though, it will still be available with all the stuff that makes minivans so practical, including multiple seating arrangements, a an array of onboard comfort and entertainment features and even an available built-in vacuum cleaner.

Designed and built here in the US, the 2021 Sienna will be looking to steal some attention from the SUV crowd when it arrives in dealership Our biggest question is that now that Toyota sells hopped-up TRD versions of the Camry and Avalon, can we expect a TRD Sienna in the near future too? Please make it happen!

Or for full luxury #vanlife treatment how about Toyota's extravagant Granace minivan that can be found in Japan.