Edgar Hernandez has honed his craft in the world of traditionally styled customs, classics and hot rods as the owner of Starlite Rod & Kustom. With a stable of classic and custom cars to cruise at his fingertips, only one type of ride was missing: a timeless road trip vehicle with enough room for the family and the capability to go anywhere on or off-road.

Road Trippin'

When the family goes on a road trips, Edgar’s wife, mother-in-law and three kids all come along. That means that the only way to have plenty room is to drive either a minivan or large SUV, like a Suburban. Of course, for Edgar, it had to be something classic and with some style, and since his son Frank was into off-roading, the road trip rig had to check that box, as well. Enter his 1967 GMC Suburban 4x4, the ultimate family truckster turned off-road adventurer.

LS Power

The old small block Chevrolet 5.7L engine wouldn’t cut it for the plans Edgar had for the Suburban. Something more powerful and, above anything else, more reliable, was needed. To solve the powerplant problem, a pull-out 6.0L LS-based engine from a Cadillac Escalade was dropped in and wired up using a PSI harness. To add even more power, a Comp Cams Stage-3 camshaft and pair of stainless-steel headers were installed, bringing its numbers up to 345hp and 380 lb-ft torque. To back up the modern horsepower, a 4L80E transmission was rebuilt by Gilberto’s Transmissions with a commercial clutch, B&M trans cooler and Derale transmission pan with a TS Cases NP20S transfer case.

The chassis was stiffened and strengthened by boxing it in with 3/16-inch plate and welding in a trio of 3-inch tubular crossmembers, plus all of the factory welds were strengthened, too. B52 hangers hold 52-inch Atlas Spring leaf springs up front with a set of remote reservoir Bilstein shocks providing 10 inches of travel. A similar setup with 14 inches of travel was used in the rear, attached to the rebuilt 14-bolt GMC rearend outfitted with an Eaton Tru Trac with 4.56:1 gears. A pair of helper airbags were installed for a smoother ride and towing both his family camper and show car trailer.

Classic Off-Road Styling

Edgar wanted to give the Suburban that classic ‘70s off-road look but with the modern technology and performance available today. A set of classic-styled Mickey Thompson Off Road aluminum wheels were attached to the Dana 44 front axle with Warn hubs and disc brakes, but 20x10s as opposed to the old school 15s. Naturally, a set of modern tires designed for on and off-road performance were needed. He opted for a set of Nitto Ridge Grappler 35x12.50R20 tires on the classic GMC for a quiet family ride on road trips with plenty of grip in the dirt. Carrying a full-sized spare, just in case, is a custom-fabricated rear bumper, tire carrier and tow hitch receiver.

Everything under the Vintage Flatz Orange paint on the body has been modernized and beefed up. The same ethos was carried over to the off-road accessories, and still with an old school flair. The classic chrome bumper was cut and outfitted with a push bar and removable Warn winch. A Conferr roof rack with the tools needed to get the heavy SUV out of the sand or Asuza mud was installed behind a light bar that screams 1982, with modern tech, of course. KC HiLites Daylighter 6-inch LED lights with old school yellow smile covers compliment the matching orange 76 antenna ball and complete the look of this classic off-road rig.

Minivan Vibes

Of course, being the ultimate off-road version of a custom car builder’s family ride, Edgar opted to swap in seats from a Honda Odyssey minivan to complete the road trip feel with comfort. Naturally, Edgar had to throw in some of his signature Kustom style in with a Mooneyes steering wheel. An Alpine Electronics head unit keeps everyone entertained with sing-a-longs. To ensure that the healthy 6.0L engine would last on long trips, a custom 46-gallon fuel cell was added with Dakota Digital VHX gauges to keep an eye on the engine’s status.

As the Suburban was being finished up, a timeline was set for its maiden voyage to the Grand Canyon (and hopefully back)! The shakedown run to the Grand Canyon was a true test, and a few things were fixed when Edgar got it back home to Starlite. Since then the family have trekked it to all of the local off-road spots, as well as down to Rosarito in Mexico, and now it pulls double duty as tow vehicle and camper hauler with off-road muscle and old school style.

Hard Facts

Love Suburbans? Click here to see this beautiful, slammed '71.

With the Coronavirus having slowed a lot of automotive news and happenings to just a trickle, there are still some things to be excited about in the auto industry, and this week Cadillac teased us with some a few prototype photos and bit of info about its upcoming CT4-V Blackwing and CT5-V Blackwing high performance sedans.

While in previous generations the top of the line high performance Cadillacs were simply called "V," the new Blackwing models represent a new level of track-ready super sedan aimed and taking on Europe's best.

The official release didn't give any technical info or specs for the two upcoming models but it did say they will be equipped with " specially tuned chassis, vehicle control technologies and engines."

Even more importantly, the release also confirmed that both Blackwings will be available with old fashioned manual transmissions. This is significant as most cars in this class are now automatic only. 

As for engines and power, the smaller CT4-V Blackwing is likely to have to a hopped up version of GM's twin turbocharged V6 while the flagship CT5-V Blackwing is presumed to have a supercharged 6.2 liter V8 making around 650 hp.

No info was released about when the Blackwings will go on sale, but Cadillac said that the cars have been undergoing testing and the two images of camouflaged prototypes suggests they aren't too far off.

It's now been well over 15 years since Cadillac jumped into the high performance game with the original CTS-V and now the Blackwings look poised to carry on the torch of fast Caddies into the well into the future.

While on the subject of high performance GM sedans with manual gearboxes, check out our impressions of a 2016 Chevy SS six-speed.

If you like fast cars, particularly fast American cars, there’s never been a better time to be alive. Any way you slice it, today’s high-performance American machines are simply incredible in their capabilities.

Far from the muscle cars of the past, today’s cars don’t just accelerate well. They stop, turn and lap a racing circuit faster than few could imagine just 10 or 20 years ago. More than just competing with each other, these flagship muscle cars can now outperform genuine supercars from Europe’s most prestigious makers. Of these super muscle machines, Ford’s Shelby Mustang GT500 is the latest and maybe the greatest. Following in the footsteps of the already-great Shelby GT350, the GT500 has taken the modern Mustang platform to entirely new levels of performance.

The Ultimate Factory S550

Just starting to appear on the roads and drag strips of America, the 2020 GT500 packs a newly developed supercharged 5.2L V8 among its hardware that makes an incredible 760hp and 625 lb-ft of torque from the factory. While previous high-end performance Mustangs only had manual transmissions, the new GT500’s only gearbox is a state-of-the-art, seven-speed, dual clutch automatic capable of shifting with an immediacy that a human being could only dream of.

When combined with other tricks like high performance magnetic dampers and a chassis even more dialed in than the already-fantastic GT350, the GT500 becomes a well-rounded piece of precision engineering that can wow a driver on any type of road
and out-lap cars costing twice as much.

Enter Kenne Bell

Yet, for as capable as the new GT500 is right off the showroom floor, the old-fashioned American hot-rodding spirit is always going to lead some to see if they can make it even better, and that’s exactly why the team at Kenne Bell wanted to get involved. You’ve probably heard the name, and Kenne Bell has been in the business of making cars go fast for more than 50 years now, offering a variety of complete supercharger kits and upgrade parts for factory supercharged vehicles.

With a car as stout as the GT500, Kenne Bell was going to have their work cut out for them while trying to better the car’s performance. As you’ll see though, their efforts with the 2020 GT500 are already starting to pay off. Case in point, this Rapid Red GT500 that was already going under the knife before it was fully broken-in.

As is often the case with factory supercharged cars, the work that Kenne Bell has done to the GT500 at this point is not major, but the gains in performance have already been proven substantial. The supercharger is still the factory unit (for now), but supporting
upgrades have given them a good idea of the potential this car has.

Unlocking the Power

Among the parts fitted to the car are Kenne Bell BOOST-A-PUMP, a trick solution to improve the factory fuel pump performance, along with a set of Injector Dynamics fuel injectors to deliver said fuel. Visibly, the biggest change under the hood is the Kenne Bell cold air intake, a common part used to extract extra horsepower on just about any type of modern vehicle. Another old school upgrade that’s been applied here is a Griptec supercharger pulley that allows the GT500’s factory supercharger to provide more boost. Perhaps the most significant upgrade done to the car is the Kenne Bell PCM tune, which takes the aforementioned upgrades and adapts the car’s tuning to make the most of them. All of these upgrades were fitted to the car in the span of just one week, and the result is an estimated 970hp (a 200+ hp improvement over the GT500’s already-giant stock figures).

But even with all that extra power on tap, it won’t do much good if you can’t put that power down to the pavement, and this car has also seen some important upgrades in that department. With state-of-the-art engine and traction control systems, wide tires and most importantly, tons of power, the GT500 is a serious quarter-mile stormer out of the box, and it’s even better after that aforementioned boost in horsepower. This makes tire selection critical when looking to maximize the GT500’s street and strip performance, and that’s where Nitto’s newest drag radial tire—the NT555RII—comes in.

The NT555RII

Owners of high horsepower, street-legal modern Mustangs looking for serious drag strip performance have been using Nitto’s drag radial tires for years, and this hopped-up 2020 Shelby GT500 is the perfect vehicle to put the latest iteration of the innovative Nitto drag radial to the test.

The newly-released D.O.T.-compliant NT555RII has been designed to work in unison with the Nitto NT555 G2 tires on the non-driven axle, providing both the latest in traction technology and a matching look on all four corners of the car.

Along with a new look, the NT555RII delivers improved traction and quicker 60-foot times for drag racers, while still being capable of handling a variety of road conditions and wet weather on the street. Like the NT555 G2, the drag radial version has also been engineered for modern performance cars with a variety of sizes to fit cars like the 2020 Shelby GT500.

970HP Now, More to Come

While there’s no doubt that a 970hp monster street machine that can handle the daily commute with ease would be considered more than enough by many, the truth is that we’ve only just seen the beginnings of the new GT500’s performance potential. It’s going to be a lot of fun watching what happens with this and other GT500s over the coming months and years.

Today’s high-tech muscle cars may be capable of performance that would be unheard of back in the golden years, but the desire to modify and make them go even faster is proving to be timeless. Once again, we tip our caps to the community of enthusiasts and aftermarket companies who say, “you can never go fast enough.”

For more on the new NT555RII drag radial, you can check out our special coverage straight from the drag strip. 

We want to pay you to create and star in Driving Line’s newest vlog! If you love watching YouTube car videos or have always thought you could make something more interesting than what you see you there… we’re looking for you! Bonus: we want to pay you to make your own automotive vlog AND it’ll live on Driving Line’s YouTube, being served out to our large audience. You’ll also receive valuable help and guidance from a team of our expert staff. It’s like Shark Tank, but for YouTube shows! 

How to Apply

1. Create a short (1-2 minutes) audition video of yourself
2. Upload it to your own YouTube channel
3. Send us your video submission’s YouTube link via our “CONTACT US” page* 

What to Include in Your Video Submission

• We want to hear what your vlog will focus on, such as diesels, off-road builds, drag racing, overlanding, garage tech, engine building… you get the point!
• Tell us and SHOW us why you’d be great starring in your own vlog.
• Think about this as a mini-pilot—talk to us, but also give us a little taste of what you might expand upon in your first episode.

What We’re Looking For In Our Next Vlog Star 

• You must be fun and engaging to watch! Show us something that interests us or make us laugh.
• This isn’t a live Facebook feed. We’ll give you tips and guidance along the way for improvement, but you’ll need to know how to shoot and edit your own content above and beyond just holding your iPhone in front of your face.
• Take us into your world! What part of the car world do you live and breath in? We want to see that genuinely and learn more about it.
• People that we select to move forward with in this process will get a 4-episode pilot vlog spot on Driving Line, which we'll pay you to make. If all goes well, then we'll keep it on as a regular series!

And that's it! As soon as we receive your submission (the sooner the better!) we'll review and contact you if interested. So, be sure that the email you use when submitting via our Contact Us form is the correct email to reach you at. We can't wait to see what you'll create!

*When sharing a submission, you are giving Driving Line permission to use that content to promote this project across all Driving Line properties and channels.

Check out Driving Line's YouTube to catch up on our latest videos.

Tires, just like many other vital components to any automobile, are considered wear and tear items. While some will undoubtedly last longer than others, all tires will eventually need to be replaced. Most motorists are aware of the different maintenance methods for ensuring they get the most life from their tires. But, do the same rules apply to off-road vehicles rolling on a set of  off-road tires? Off-road vehicles are designed to travel over much more treacherous terrain than passenger cars, and therefore, many aspects of off-road tires are different, including the methods of maintaining them. In this article, we will take a deep-dive into six important steps to get the most from your off-road tires.

1. Selecting the Right Tire

Our first step takes place before the tires are even installed on your rig. Whether you have a 1-ton pickup truck for towing, a fully built Jeep on 40-inch mud-terrains, or a daily-driven pickup truck on all-terrain tires that occasionally sees off-road use, selecting the right tires for your vehicle is the first step to making sure you get the most life out of them. All vehicles come from the manufacturer with a sticker (usually on the driver’s door jamb area) that specifies the gross vehicle weight rating and recommended tire size and inflation pressure, as specified by the manufacturer. While most passenger car owners can safely use this recommendation to find the right tires when it comes to replacing them, owners of vehicles that are modified for off-road use typically cannot. Modifying a vehicle for off-road use typically means adding suspension lift, utilizing over-sized tires, and adding a significant amount of weight to the vehicle.

In addition to different sizes and tread patterns, all tires have a measurement called “load ranges.” This load range rating is typically seen as a letter, such as load range C or load range D, and is printed on the sidewall of the tire. The different load range ratings specify the comparative toughness of the tire, based on how much weight it can carry, its sidewall composition, and the maximum air pressure it can hold. Selecting the correct load range for your vehicle is imperative to its longevity. Installing a tire that is engineered for a lighter vehicle on a heavy truck that tows a trailer not only severely reduces its life-span, but it can be dangerous.

However, not all load range ratings are the same across all manufacturers. For this reason, we must look for another number, called the “load index” number, located on the tire’s sidewall. Most tire manufacturers will also list the load index in the specifications of their tires online and in printed catalogs. The load index number is the most accurate way of knowing what the exact maximum weight the tire can carry, at its maximum inflation pressure. Multiplying this maximum weight number by four will tell you the maximum weight all four tires can hold. Compare this number to the weight of your rig when it’s fully weighed down with gear or a trailer. The load carrying capacity of the tires should be significantly higher than the weight of the vehicle. Use the chart in this link to identify your load index and calculate the maximum weight-carrying capacity of your tires.

In addition to the right specifications, selecting the right kind of tire will significantly increase their longevity on your off-road rig. Nitto Tire offers several types of tires designed for different off-road uses, as part of their Grappler line of tires. All-terrain tires, such as the Terra Grappler G2, are designed for vehicles that see light off-road use. If you do mostly highway driving, but find yourself adventuring off the pavement once in a while, all-terrains are a good choice. Mud-terrain tires, such as the Trail Grappler and Mud Grappler, offer the highest level of off-road traction, and are the best choice for off-road vehicles that see heavy trail use. If you have a dedicated crawling rig, or a truck that is mostly used in the dirt and mud, these tires are best suited for you. Hybrid-terrain tires, such as the Ridge Grappler, blend the best of both worlds into one tire. If you do equal parts highway driving and off-road driving, such as a daily driven truck that’s also a weekend warrior, hybrid-terrain tires will offer you the most grip when on the trails, while maintaining the best road manners with a smooth, quiet ride. Not only will you see the best performance by picking the right type of tires for your rig, but you can maximize their longevity by using them as designed.

2. Airing Down

Most people know to keep the right amount of air in their tires. Not only is it an important safety measure when driving any vehicle, but it has significant effects on fuel economy, performance and tire longevity. But contrary to passenger vehicles, off-road driven vehicles will often fare better with reduced air pressure while on the trails. This is due to several factors in the physical changes in a tire with lowered air pressure.

When you reduce the air pressure in a tire, you increase the traction patch of the tire, or the size of the “footprint” it leaves on the ground. A bigger footprint means more traction, which can help get up and over obstacles such as rocks and steep inclines easier. But how does lowering the air pressure in your tires when you’re off-road aid in the tires overall longevity?

While driving off road, your tires are more susceptible to slipping across the terrain. Whether its loose gravel, sand, rocks, dirt, snow or mud, the elements below your tires are constantly sliding under them, wearing away the tread little by little. Reducing the tire pressure reduces that slip due to the increase in traction, and therefore reduces the rate of wear on the tire’s tread.

Reducing your tire pressure can also increase its lifespan by making the tire more moldable to the surfaces it rolls over. While accelerating through rough terrain, such as jagged rocks or gravel, tires at full pressure are more likely to “chunk” or lose bits of their tread because the tire is forced to keep its round shape. But reducing the tire pressure allows the tread to mold to the surface, absorbing the rough edges of the terrain below it rather than fighting against it. Over time, this will significantly help tread blocks remain intact, and increase the lifespan of the tire.

3. Rotating in Your Spare

We all know about rotating our tires regularly. How often you do it depends on how you drive your car and how many miles you put on it. Most vehicles have different drivetrains; some power the front wheels, others the rear, and some can do both all the time, or part of the time. Most vehicles have different amounts of weight over the front and rear axles, which leads to uneven wear between the front and rear tires. These are the essential reasons why rotating your tires on any vehicle is imperative to their longevity, including your off-road rig. But what if you have a full-size spare tire on your 4x4? You’ll want to rotate all your tires so you don’t end up with four completely worn tires and a single brand new one. Here we will explain the proper technique for rotating in your full-size spare tire to get even wear across all five tires throughout their lifespan.

Most off-road vehicles have either a full-time or part-time four-wheel drive drivetrain that requires the same size tires on every corner. Normally, these tires are non-directional, meaning they are engineered to rotate in either direction. This allows you to swap sides as well as axles when rotating your tires, also called the “cross-rotation” method. But swapping in a full-size spare tire changes the cross-rotation method quite a bit. Take a look at the following illustration.

As you can see, it’s a bit more complicated than simply cross-rotating the tires. When rotating in your fifth tire, you’ll want to move the spare to the passenger side rear, and move that tire to the passenger front. Move the Passenger side front to the Driver's side rear. Move your driver’s side rear the driver’s side front, and move that driver’s side front to the spare tire location. This is known as the “clockwise five-tire rotation,” and is recommended by auto manufacturers that provide a full-size spare tire with their vehicles, such as the Jeep Wrangler. This method ensures that the tires rotate in a clockwise manner, and each tire will be designated as the spare tire at some point throughout its life.

4. Check Your Shocks

One aspect of tire longevity that is often overlooked is ensuring the vehicle’s suspension is in proper order. One of the fastest ways an off-road tire can “go bad” or become unusable before its tread is fully worn down is by way of “cupping.” A cupped tire has peaks and valleys along the tread, and can be felt by running your hand across the tread in the direction of rotation. This phenomenon is most often caused by faulty shocks, and can happen to any vehicle. Since off-road SUVs and trucks see much more suspension abuse, there is a higher likelihood of the shocks needing replacement, therefore leading to cupped tires. But what’s the correlation between a faulty shock absorber and a cupped tire?

Your shock absorbers do much more than provide a smooth ride for you and your passengers. They also absorb the “shock” that your tires are subject to when going down the road. If your shocks are no longer doing their job of controlling the impacts from uneven road surfaces, then they are passing along the impacts to your springs. It doesn’t matter whether you have coil springs, leaf springs, coilovers, or torsion bars on your vehicle; if your shocks aren’t working, the springs are taking the force of impact.

But unlike shocks, springs produce an equal but opposite reaction. When you go down a bumpy road with bad shocks, your springs are constantly compressing and expanding, creating a bouncing effect on your axles, wheels and tires. Since the only part of the drivetrain that actually contacts the road surface is the tires, this bouncing motion as the tire rotates creates uneven wear along the tread in path of rotation, and over time, creates the peaks and valleys on the tread known as cupping. Cupped tires will produce a bumpy, unpleasant ride, and can be dangerous if not replaced. So, the moral of the story is: make sure your shocks are still working correctly if you want your tires to last.

5. Correct Alignment

Equally as important as checking your shocks is ensuring your vehicle’s alignment is correct. In almost any application, installing a suspension lift on a vehicle requires a wheel alignment to be performed before the vehicle is deemed road-worthy. Depending on the type of suspension you have, lifting a truck or SUV will change the alignment of the front wheels, which can affect how evenly the tread wears over time. Evenly worn tires will last much longer, and increase the time between buying new tires.

Furthermore, not all alignments are the same. If you install a suspension lift with larger tires and different offset wheels on your vehicle, there’s a strong possibility that the factory alignment specifications will no longer apply. Factory alignment specs only apply to factory suspension, wheel and tire dimensions. A good alignment technician will know how to properly align your lifted truck or SUV, so make sure you do your research before choosing an alignment shop.

6. Proper Storage

The last step on our list applies to anyone who only occasionally uses their rig. If you have a dedicated off-road vehicle that sits in the driveway or the yard between wheeling trips, or you have a long-term project that won’t be running for more than a few months, proper tire storage will help extend the life of your tires.

Like most rubber compounds, tires are susceptible to oxidation, which manifests as dry-rotting. All tires will eventually oxidize and become hard and dry, which leads to cracks in the rubber that make them unsafe for road use. This process is sped up significantly by letting them sit out in the sun and heat. Storing loose tires inside a shed or the garage will slow this process. If your tires are mounted on the vehicle, and there’s no option to park inside, you may want to invest in some tire covers (like those found on RVs in storage) between your trips. When you’re ready to hit the trails, simply pull the covers off and go.

And that’s about it! Hopefully this guide helps you get the most from your off-road tires, whether you’re using them for a few trips per year or every single day. When it comes time to replacing your off-road tires, check out Nitto’s line of Grappler tires, where you’ll find the right tire for your rig, no matter what you do with it.

Click here to find out how to properly maintain beadlock wheels.

Car chases might get all the glory, but trucks have enjoyed their share of screen time in Hollywood, too. In fact, there are a number of movies where pickups and SUVs have played a key role in either advancing the plot, saving the day, or just injecting some much-needed adrenaline into a movie's sagging second act.

What are some of our favorite movie trucks? We picked 10 of the coolest trucks to ever hit the big time and explained why we think they're worthy of just as much recognition as any flashy sports car or eye-searing exotic.

1995 Dodge Ram 2500 - Twister

When Dodge released the second-generation Ram in the early 90s, the truck was instantly a star thanks to its extroverted styling and available V10 engine in three-quarter and full-ton models. So brightly did the Ram's public persona shine that it was given a leading role in Jan De Bont's production of Twister in 1996, a movie where a ragtag gang of miscreants and weather scientists (lead by Helen Hunt and Bill Paxton) alternately chase down and are chased down by tornados.

The 10-cylinder Ram seen on-screen was a mish-mash between 1500 and 2500 stunt trucks, as well as the 2500 hero vehicle itself. Deputized by a reluctant Paxton to drop DOROTHY (a data-gathering capsule) in the path of a major storm, the Dodge Ram stole the show after another very cool truck - a 1982 Jeep J10 Honcho - is hurled through the sky during an earlier twister encounter.

If you ever get bored with the 90s-era special effects, you can always distract yourself by counting how many times Paxton's character winces as the Ram is relentless beaten up by high winds and flying debris.

1977 Chevrolet K10 Stepside - Red Dawn

If you can discount the unlikely premise of a Soviet paratrooper invasion that focused on the heartland rather than the coasts, and then also buy-in to the idea that a local high school football team is the only hope for small town America faced with a mechanized platoon of Russian soldiers, then you, too can enjoy Red Dawn's many absurd automotive action sequences.

Like say, the one where a lifted '77 Chevrolet K10 driven by Patrick Swayze dodges tank fire from a road block that is then obliterated by an American helicopter on their frantic escape from the county limits to the Colorado mountains (where they somehow become a crack military unit). Go Wolverines!

1985 Toyota SR5 Pickup - Back To The Future

Back To The Future was one of the first mainstream American movies to present a Japanese pickup truck as not just an object of desire, but also a crucial plot point in what would turn out to be all three entries in the franchise.

When we first encounter the lifted, rollbar-and-Hi-Lites 4x4 SR5, it's sitting in a dealership window for main character Marty McFly to drool over. By the end of the movie, it's transitioned to his garage, where his former nemesis (and now deferential domestic servant) has just finished a detail job. Two movies later, an ill-fated drag race from behind the wheel of the Toyota decides McFly's entire future, fortuitously avoided by a last-minute decision to shove the truck into reverse, all while Huey Lewis sings 'The Power Of Love' in the background.

Bigfoot 1 - Take This Job And Shove It

There exists no more important flashpoint for the popularity of monster trucks than a long-forgotten B-movie based on a country music song.

'Take This Job An Shove It' might not have been a blockbuster in 1981, but the race between Bob Chandler's Bigfoot 1 (a 1974/78 custom Ford F-250 lifted on 48-inch mud tires) and a lightly-disguised version of Everett Jasmer's USA-1 (among other off-road pickups) was the first look for most Americans at the phenomenon that monster trucks would become. It's a seminal moment for motorsports, buried in an ode to a Johnny Paycheck lyric.

1989 GMC Sierra 3500 - Lethal Weapon 2

It’s unknown why writer Shane Black consistently put Mel Gibson's burn-out cop character Riggs in a four-door, dually GMC in almost every Lethal Weapon movie, but the original film's sequel provides the pickup with its best role. How many other movie trucks can lay claim to pulling an entire house off of its foundations, and down a hillside, all in the name of the law?

Realistically, Riggs had a dually because he lived in a trailer on the beach, but in an era before trucks were 'cool,' it's rare to see a Hollywood hat tip to a working truck in a major franchise like this one.

1987 Chevrolet Suburban - Dante's Peak

There are more than a few cool truck scenes in 1997's unlikely volcano thriller Dante's Peak (including one where a pair of pre-teens are driving a rad Land Cruiser on a rescue mission) but it's Pierce Brosnan's '87 Suburban that steals the show.

Character Harry Dalton is a vulcanologist, which means he needs all the cool off-road gear slathered onto the Suburban (33-inch all-terrain tires, Warn winch, roof rack, brush guard, CB radio, Cepek off-road lights, and of course, a snorkel). This is no poser truck, either, as that snorkel helps keep the truck's head above water as Brosnan fords, and eventually floats down, a river on his way to gather up those crazy Land Rover kids.

1963 Jeep Gladiator - Tremors

This Gladiator is the ultimate survivor, in more ways than one. Not only does it feature a period-perfect desert patina, what with its sun-kissed sheet metal and work gear stuffed into its faded blue stepside box, but it also manages to tear a tongue off of one of the 'graboids' that emerges from deep underground to try and make a snack of its rear axle (and driver Kevin Bacon).

It's hard to think of a better endorsement for the saying 'they don't build them like they used to' like having a 40 year old truck help turn the tables on a subterranean alien invasion.

Whatever Tango & Cash Were Driving

On one hand, the 1989 movie Tango & Cash is a buddy cop flick set in ostensibly the same reality as our own. On the other hand, it has a climactic scene where Sylvester Stallone and Kurt Russell have to drive a futuristic 'RV From Hell' 4x4 through a bizarrely auto-centric flame-throwing, rocket-launching gauntlet to rescue Teri Hatcher.

What's lurking under all that bubble body work and fully-functional Gatling gun? Turns out it’s a 3500-series GMC pickup platform motivated by a 454 cubic inch V8 that's mounted just ahead of the rear axle (in a bid to better balance the vehicle for jump stunts). A trio of these bizarre trucks were built for the movie, with one currently working the show circuit / occasionally showing up for sale online.

Bigfoot 7 - Roadhouse

By the time Roadhouse came along in 1989, monster trucks were all over the multiplex- especially Bigfoot. So compelling were these massive machines that the producers of Roadhouse convinced Bob Chandler to build a special truck just for the movie - and by 'convinced,' we mean 'paid him a whole ton of money.'

The end result was used in a single scene where a small town crime boss intimidates the locals (and Patrick Swayze, making his second appearance on our list right alongside Bigfoot's double-dip) by having Bigfoot 7 smash through a new car showroom, seemingly with no consequences to himself or anyone in his hayseed gang. That one sequence cost a half million dollars to set up and shoot.

Bigfoot 7 is wearing 66-inch tires similar to those of other Chandler trucks in the movie, but today sits on 10-foot rubber in front of the Fun Spot in Orlando, where it's currently been renamed 'BigFun' after a not-so-fun lawsuit between Fun Spot and Chandler over both the Bigfoot name and the disputed ownership of the vehicle.

1974 Chevrolet C10 Stepside - The Driver

Unique among the movies on this list is The Driver's use of a Chevrolet C10 in a street chase rather than a rough-and-tumble off-road challenge, alien escape, or tornado hunt. The titular Driver (played by Tatum O'Neal) is a car thief with a serious set of skills, and in one of the film's most memorable scenes he uses a bright red, 454-powered pickup to escape a Pontiac Trans Am through the streets of Los Angeles.

It's the kind of stunt driving that's very rarely seen with a pickup truck as the star of the show, and it's a refreshing break from the standard muscle car and sedan fare found in the era's many, many chase set pieces.

Looking for trucks on the small screen too? Check out our round-up of the 5 TV trucks we miss the most.

For most of us, tire rotation and basic tire maintenance is common knowledge. However, for large swaths of the population, the tread that carries us to and from our destinations is a complete afterthought. In fact, approximately 29 million drivers think tires require zero maintenance, according to data from the Rubber Manufacturer’s Association. Let’s change that. Going beyond the “rotate every 5,000 to 6,000 miles” standard everyone seems to know about, let’s explore how regular rotation intervals, specific rotation patterns and (perhaps most importantly) inflation pressure effects the way our tires wear and perform. The simple tire rotation and maintenance tips listed below are intended to help you get the most out of your investment—and remain safe while doing it.

We’re All After Longevity

First things first, choose the right tire for your vehicle and your specific driving needs. Tires aren’t cheap, and as such many buyers perform extensive research before settling on a new set. If you’re going to be spending 99-percent or more of your time on pavement, you likely don’t need the most aggressive mud terrain tire on the market. However, just because you go with an extreme tread tire doesn’t necessarily mean it won’t last long. Also remember that a tire’s service life is not determined by chronological age. Proper tire maintenance and the way you drive determine your tire’s life span.

Proper Inflation Pressure Is Key

The best tip in tire maintenance is to regularly ensure you’re running the proper inflation pressure. Don’t forget that just because a tire looks properly inflated doesn’t mean it is. Some 25 million drivers believe that if a tire doesn’t look under-inflated then there is no reason to check its air pressure. Be aware that tires can lose 1-psi per month due to permeation (i.e. air passes through the tire even though no leak or puncture exists).

Your Recommended Inflation Pressure

Even though there is a raised psi rating present on your tire’s sidewall, it in no way represents your vehicle’s ideal inflation pressure. The maximum inflation pressure is simply the pressure that provides optimum load carrying capacity. The inflation pressure recommended for your particular vehicle is most commonly available on the label on your driver side door jam or in the owner’s manual, but on some models it can be found in the glove box, center console or fuel door. This inflation pressure is based on best tread wear characteristics and comfort level. Also note that many trucks will specify a different inflation pressure in the front tires as opposed to the rear ones (see photo above).

Tire Rotation Interval

With the perfect tire picked out and the right inflation pressure being employed and checked on a regular basis, routine tire rotation is the next step in competent tire care. The primary goal of regular tire rotations has always been to achieve the most uniform tread wear of all tires on a vehicle, so it’s always best to adhere to the tire rotation pattern specified by the vehicle manufacturer (when applicable) via the owner’s manual. If no pattern is listed in your owner’s manual, observe front to back rotations every 6,000 miles and no more than every 7,500 miles. Also bear in mind that irregular tread wear may require more frequent rotation.

Rotation Patterns

There are various tire rotation patterns to choose from, with some of the most common patterns pictured above. However, these popular patterns don’t apply across the board for all applications. The best tire rotation pattern for your specific vehicle is the one printed in the owner’s manual.

Spare Tire/Fifth Tire Rotation

If your vehicle is fitted with a full-size spare tire, it’s usually a good idea to get it into circulation, too. Simply look up the manufacturer’s recommendation for getting the spare into service. In the absence of a manufacturer recommendation, Nitto recommends a five-tire rotation any time a full-size spare is in the equation.

Special Condition Rotations

Unique conditions can make it impossible to observe the more popular patterns of tire rotation. This is true for uni-directional tires with asymmetric tread patterns and vehicles that make use of different size tires, front to rear. These types of tires or arrangements may also carry certain rotation guidelines or restrictions. Once again, it’s best to check your owner’s manual or consult a tire professional for a recommendation on the best rotation practice to use.

Rotating Can Help Quell Tread Wear Issues

For a multitude of reasons, tires can show irregular wear—even though they’ve been well cared for. In some cases, rotating the tires can solve the issue. Other times, excessive or uneven wear is caused from misalignment, tire imbalance or a mechanical problem (such as worn ball joints, etc.).

Check Air Pressure After Rotating

One thing many of us forget to do after performing a tire rotation is to make sure inflation pressure is still where it needs to be. Always check (and if necessary, adjust) your tire's inflation pressure when the tires are cold, and on the vehicle.

Over and Under Inflation’s Effect on Your Tires

Over-inflation and under-inflation can affect your tire’s tread wear considerably. If you’ve over-inflated them, premature wear can occur on the tire’s crown (the center of the tread). In addition to the increased wear, over-inflating tires can make them susceptible to suffering internal damage if they endure an impact such as a curb, deep pot hole or rock. If your tires are low for long periods of time, you’ll notice excessive wear on the outer edges. Aside from limiting wear, proper inflation pressure maximizes your vehicle’s handling, braking and fuel economy.

Outside of the 2/32-inch rule and the Penny Trick…

Eventually, and even with top-notch care, your tires will run out of tread. Beyond the penny trick, it’s wise to keep a tread depth gauge handy. Not only will it tell you when you’re nearing the legal limit of 2/32-inch tread (1.6mm), but using it to intermittently check tread wear can help you spot irregular or excessive tread wear patterns before it’s too late.

Need a refresher course on trailer tires? Find out how to pick the best one here.

As the Corona Virus Pandemic continues on, we have to find new ways to entertain ourselves. As all regions of the U.S. and other countries are on lockdown to help lessen the threat of spreading the possibly deadly Corona Virus AKA, COVID-19, this situation puts a serious damper on our community. Recently, we posted up a story called “Car Culture Under Quarantine: 4 Ways to Keep the Passion Going,” which highlighted several ways to embrace our love for the automotive scene as we were first entered into this new way of living.

Up until then, enjoying custom cars and trucks was a sport done mostly outdoors. However, during these questionable times we have all adapted to staying at home around the clock. Though we can survive like this for the most part, many of us feel need to fulfill our automotive tendencies. Previously, we had some great ideas on how to move forward during this current situation and it has helped many from going insane. Since then, the lockdown has been extended and it appears that it may not end until the summertime or beyond, leaving some of us in fear of getting stir-crazy. But, fear not, as we have a few additional ideas to help feed your vehicular desires in these odd times.

6. Virtual Driving

With an abundance of free time, now is the perfect occasion to do some indoor racing. There are many ways to take advantage of this on multiple platforms designed for homebound enthusiasts. Virtual racing is the best way to enjoy racing without having to go outside.

There are even some advanced simulators on the market to get the most out of it, but you don’t have to go all in for the sake of racing at home. By doing some simple research, you can easily find many budget friendly options that won’t break the bank.

5. Miniature Racing

Another way to race at home includes the use of remote-control cars. These days, ready-to-run R/C cars can be purchased for only a couple hundred dollars and they are a blast to mess around with.

You can even make tracks in your garage or any other large areas of your compound. We have been fans of R/C drifting and have always seen this as a budget alternative to the real thing before this pandemic.

We also dusted off our own mini slot car track, which is always a ton of fun. Not only do you get to go head to head with someone on a small scale but you can design your own track. Creating a personalized racing circuit in the comfort of your own home is a great way to let your imagination run wild. We set up a track of our own last weekend and it kept us entertained for hours on end.

One thing we have always loved is building with Lego sets. With all this extra time, we have been able to attack the sets we have always wanted to put together. We can now relive our favorite racing moments this way or even create our own.

4. Garage Organization

Though this may not be as exciting as some of the other things on our list, it’s very important to get your tools in line.

We are all guilty of leaving tools in a space after knocking out a job, but it’s good to get organized. With some extra time on your hands, you can not only clean, but better organize your workspace for the next time you need to do some wrenching.

3. Vehicle Maintenance

If you have a garage and a set of tools, there’s no excuse to ignore your vehicles. Get that long ignored maintenance out of the way or better yet, get to customizing.

Now is the time to work on your show vehicle or even your daily as we have less need to drive at the moment. We took our own advice and performed a few mods to our ’62 GMC. Not only have we gotten our truck in tip top shape, we even gained some performance with parts like our new K&N filter, which added some bling too.

2. Online Research

Now is the perfect time to get on the interwebs to keep the passion going and start learning some new tricks. You can really go far down the rabbit hole here as there is an abundance of ways to discover more about car culture.

This could also be a source of inspiration to implement a new mod on your ride. While you’re at it, you can even order parts as we know most companies, are still churning out products. Though production is a little slower, manufactures are still dedicated to move our scene forward.

1. Make it Shine

Despite the fact that there are no shows scheduled for the next few months, this doesn’t mean you should leave your ride dirty. Some of the lengthier cleaning methods can now be done as you have more time to complete them.

Things like waxing your paint or polishing wheels can be daunting but there’s less excuse for not executing them now. By cleaning your ride during the quarantine, you will be ahead of the game when everything starts up again.

Just because we can’t hang out with groups of other people doesn’t mean we can’t have fun during this time. As you can see, there are still many ways to get your automotive fixes but do remember to exercise safe practices as best you can and follow all the guidelines from the CDC. If we all do our part, hopefully we can kick this pandemic to the curb and get back to the norm sooner.

Got a few minutes to kill, click here to see this slammed, flawless '57 pickup truck.

In the world of affordable V8 engines the LS reigns supreme. Prized for its compact form factor, its power-per-dollar potential, and its sheer ubiquity, the LS family of eight-cylinder motors has become almost the default answer to the question 'what should I swap into my hot rod / restomod / pickup truck / off-road rig / race car / dragster.'

Getting started in the LS world means understanding that there are by now two distinct generations of this particular engine family, spanning nearly 20 years of production. Within those particular divisions are an entire universe of motors that, while sharing many commonalities, also offer a fair number of differences that can affect what applications they're best suited for, what prices you'll pay for both parts and the engines themselves, and how easy they'll be to find.

Deciding which LS is the best fit for your particular needs is easier when you've got some background on the basics. With that in mind, we put together this beginner's guide to the LS family that explains the lineage of each generation of this venerable V8.

Generation III

The LS story starts in 1997 when the LS1 engine first appeared in the Chevrolet Corvette (later migrating to the Chevrolet Camaro and Pontiac Firebird). Officially, General Motors refers to this series of motors as the 'Generation III small block,' which identifies it as a successor to the brand's previous pushrod V8s, each of which was based on the original small block design that debuted in 1954.

Many things about the LS1 helped maintain its lineage to previous small blocks, including the same general bellhousing pattern (which has had a major impact on the LS being perceived as a 'plug-and-play' replacement motor for older vehicles), its two-valves per cylinder, and its pushrod design.

That being said, there were several key differences introduced by the LS1 as compared to GM V8s that had preceded it. One of the biggest changes was the move from an iron block to a full aluminum casting, which dropped the weight of the engine considerably. Next up was scrapping a traditional distributor for an electronically-controlled coil-on-plug design, using a composite intake manifold, and introducing cathedral ports on the also-aluminum engine heads. Despite offering 346 cubic inches as opposed to the previous standard of 350 (with a 3.89-inch bore and a 3.62-inch stroke), the LS1 continued to be marketed as a 5.7-liter motor.

GM would waste no time in expanding its Gen III architecture to include a variety of applications, displacements, and design differences. On the high performance side, the LS6 would refine the LS1's details with a more aggressive camshaft profile, improved intake, higher compression, stronger block, and sodium-filled valves. It's not a common engine, however, given that it was only available for two years in the Cadillac CTS-V, and four years in the Z06 model Corvette.

It would instead be the series of iron-block, aluminum-head LS engines produced under the Vortec brand name for Chevrolet, GMC, Cadillac, and Hummer trucks that would greatly expand the family. These are found in displacements that included 4.8-liters (LR4), 5.3-liters (LM7, L59, LM4), and 6.0-liters (LQ4, LQ9).

Starting in 1999 and running until 2007, these motors would offer between 255 and 345 horsepower in stock form, but most importantly they would also be capable of handling significant amounts of turbo or supercharger boost thanks to their iron blocks. Both 4.8-liter and 5.3-liter engines share the same block, with the latter featuring a longer stroke, which means parts interchangeability between the two is significant. This has helped make the 5.3 among the most popular choices due to how many millions of Silverados, Sierras, Tahoes, Suburbans, Yukons, and cargo vans were produced with these engines during this period.

What about the 6.0? There's no doubt that in terms of stock power, the LQ4 (absent a handful of early iron-head examples in 1998-99) and LQ9 engines are stout performers. From a modern perspective, however, they consume a fair bit more fuel than their smaller displacement cousins, and are somewhat harder to find in excellent condition due to their primary use in heavy duty trucks, or lower production vehicles like the Cadillac Escalade. With aftermarket intervention, the power gap between the 5.3 and the 6.0 is easily bridged.

There's one outlier in the Gen III world that's worth mentioning, too—the L33. This unique Vortec engine mixes and matches aspects of the LM7 (same block, only aluminum instead of iron) and the LS6 (cylinder heads), and it also provides a unique camshaft. All of this helped produce a bit of extra power compared to a standard iron-block 5.3, in a lighter overall package, and was only available for three model years towards the end of the Silverado/Sierra's run.

A second, less-powerful 5.3-liter aluminum block truck motor, the LM4, was also available for a three-year period in a series of SUVs built across several GM brands.

Gen III Quick Reference

Years Produced: 1997-2007

Installed In:

Chevrolet Corvette (1997-2004), Chevrolet Camaro/Pontiac Firebird (1998-2002), Cadillac CTS-V (2004-2005), Chevrolet Express/GMC Savana (2003-2006), Chevrolet Silverado/GMC Sierra (1999-2007), Chevrolet Tahoe/GMC Yukon (2000-2006), Chevrolet Suburban/GMC Yukon XL (2002-2007) Chevrolet Avalanche (2002-2007), Chevrolet Trailblazer (2003-2005), Isuzu Ascender/GMC Envoy/Chevrolet SSR (2003-2004), Buick Rainier (2004), Hummer H2 (2002-2007) Cadillac Escalade (2002-2006).

Most Common Variant: 5.3-liter LM7

Most Powerful In Stock Form: 5.7-liter LS6 (400 horsepower)

Generation IV

It wasn't long before GM had evolved the LS to the point where it was considered a new generation of motor. Changes for the Gen IV focused on refining what had worked in Gen III, while adding more modern electronic controls. It's here that GM would introduce its first version of variable valve timing, as well as active fuel management (AFM), which could shut down fuel to half of the V8's cylinder banks under light load. Drive-by-wire, or electronic throttle control also became standard on Gen IV motors after having been used on a limited selection of Gen III designs.

By 2005 the first Gen IV engine, the LS2, had hit the scene and again it used the Corvette as its flagship. The LS2's 6.0L of displacement matched that of the LQ4 truck motor in terms of bore and stroke, but like all LS passenger car engines it featured both aluminum heads and an aluminum block. It still offered cathedral ports (borrowing its head design from the LS6 Gen III engine), and power was up to 400 horses in its initial guise. The LS2 would become a workhorse for GM, putting in an appearance under the hood of not just the Corvette, but also the Chevrolet SSR and Trailblazer SS, the Cadillac CTS-V, the Pontiac GTO, and the Saab 9-7X.

GM would offer three other 6.0L Gen IV motors, primarily for the Australian market, as well as domestic trucks. The 362 horsepower L76 added AFM to the LS2's basic design, and was offered with the Pontiac G8 GT, the Chevrolet Silverado and the GMC Sierra, Chevrolet Tahoe and GMC Yukon, and Chevrolet Suburban and Avalanche until 2009. An L77 would also briefly appear in the Chevrolet Caprice police sedan from 2011 to 2017, which was Flex Fuel capable. The L98 was a low-feature version of the 6.0 that was only offered in Australia

When a bored-and-stroked 6.2-liter LS3 appeared in the Corvette in 2006, it would also bring with it a stronger aluminum casting and larger rectangular port cylinder heads. The latter both improved airflow while also boosting fuel mileage at lower speeds. The LS3 would bump the Corvette to 430 horsepower, and it would soon spread to the revived Chevrolet Camaro as well as the Pontiac G8 GXP.

The most hardcore Gen IV motors would come in the form of the LSA and the LS9 ,each of which was a supercharged version of the 6.2. The former was found in the Cadillac CTS-V as well as the Camaro ZL1 and produced 556 horsepower thanks to its 1.9-liter supercharger, while the latter offered up 638 horsepower by way of a larger 2.3-liter blower and a higher compression ratio.

Bridging the gap between the two is the LS7, a 7.0-liter Gen IV that offers a new block with sleeved cylinders, forged internals, and larger valves. Good for 505 horsepower, it was offered in the Corvette Z06, and was hand-built specifically for the brand's most track-focused sports car. Later, it would migrate to the rare Camaro Z/28.

The proliferation of high horsepower, and surprisingly exotic LS engines in the Gen IV family was welcomed by enthusiasts, but the truck motors continued to haul the mail for builders on a more modest budget. GM would maintain the 4.8 (LY2, L20) and 5.3 (LMF, LH6, LY5, LMG, LC9, LH8, LH9) engines in its pickups and SUVs, with the sheer number of 5.3-liter editions reflecting the automaker's gradual addition of technologies such as AFM, variable-valve timing, and Flex Fuel to its line-up (and its decision to keep some models decidedly low-tech to save on costs).

While these engines are the bread and butter of the LS Gen IV family, they do produce generous amounts of power, with up to 320 horses available from some stock 5.3-liter units. More is on-hand from the 6.2-liter L92, which spread across Chevrolet, Cadillac, Hummer, and GMC's full-size SUV and pickup family from 2007-2013, delivering up to 403 ponies.

There are a couple of unusual engines produced during the Gen IV's reign that should be avoided by anyone seeking a power plant for their project. The 6.0-liter LFA was used exclusively in hybrid versions of pickups and SUVs in 2008-2009, and besides being harder to find it's designed specifically to used in a battery-assisted context. Even more rare is the 5.3-liter LS4 that was built for front-wheel drive transverse applications for a very brief period in the mid-2000s. Unless you are putting together your own FWD V8 screamer, you won't be able to use the LS4 for your vehicle.

Another word of warning about the Gen IV and the advanced technologies it eventually made standard. Both variable valve timing and active fuel management are known to be problematic over the long term, with the latter especially leading to valvetrain issues that can be expensive to repair. Delete kits that will swap in a new crank and lifters are a popular choice for removing AFM, but they can be pricy, so make sure you factor that into your build's budget. Variable valve timing is less of a hassle to program out of your LS, but it's still something to consider when deciding which of the many Gen IV motors would be the best fit for your project.

Gen IV Quick Reference

Years Produced: 2004-2013

Installed In:

Chevrolet Corvette (2005-2013), Chevrolet Camaro (2010-2015), Chevrolet SS (2014-2017), Chevrolet SSR (2005-2006) Pontiac GTO (2004-2006) Pontiac G8 (2008-2009), (Cadillac CTS-V (2006-2007, 2009-2015), Chevrolet Express/GMC Savana (2008-2017), Chevrolet Silverado/GMC Sierra (2007-2013), Chevrolet Tahoe/GMC Yukon (2007-2014), Chevrolet Suburban/GMC Yukon XL (2007-2014) Chevrolet Avalanche (2007-2013), Chevrolet Trailblazer (2006-2009), Isuzu Ascender (2005-2007), GMC Envoy (2005-2009), Buick Rainier (2005-2007), Cadillac Escalade (2007-2013), Saab 9-7X (2005-2009), Chevrolet Caprice PPV (2011-2017), Hummer H2 (2008-2009), Hummer H3 (2008-2010), Chevrolet Colorado/GMC Canyon (2009-2012), Pontiac Grand Prix (2005-2008), Chevrolet Impala (2006-2009), Chevrolet Monte Carlo (2006-2007), Buick LaCrosse (2008-2009)

Most Common Variant: 5.3-liter (in most of its various truck and SUV flavors)

Most Powerful In Stock Form: 6.2-liter LS9 (638 horsepower)

Should you swap an LS engine into a classic truck? Check out our feature on installing an LS into a Jeep Grand Wagoneer.

He’s a staple in Ultra4 and one of the nicest guys in racing. Loren Healy has earned his place among at the top of the filed, as the Nitto Team racing drive has two King of the Hammer wins under his belt and multiple national championships. While he made much of that racing legacy behind the wheel of his famed Red Dragon race machines, for 2020, Healy would leave the mythical machines behind for a horse of a different color.

Debuting at the 2020 Nitto Tire King of the Hammers, Healy’s number 67 would now be placed on a new Ford-powered race car. With Bronco boldly laid out across the grille, Healy’s transition to the Ford-sponsored Fun Haver team would have his latest race rig blend in nicely with teammate Vaughn Gittin Jr’s Brocky. Unlike Jr.’s Jimmy’s 4x4-built two-seat chassis; Healy would go back to his original Red Dragon roots with a single-seat Paul Horschel chassis.

Using a mix of proven equipment and the latest race parts available, Healy’s Bronco-themed 4400 car is a melting pot of innovation. Of course, this rig would get its ultimate test fresh out of the shop as it battled its way to a 7^th place finish at KOH this year (more on that later). To find out more about this rig, read on as we dive into the details of this cutting-edge race machine.

Ford Power

Putting out 780 horsepower and 680 lb-ft of torque is a Jeff Ginter built Ford V8. The Blue-Oval based 460ci engine is sporting a Holley intake and EFI system, custom MBRP exhaust, MSD wires, Dailey Engineering oil pump and pan, and DC Power alternator. Making sure power is always on tap are two Optima YellowTop batteries.

Single Seat

Most of Healy’s success has been driving solo throughout his carrier. While only having one Recaro ORV racing seat inside of the cabin can be a major disadvantage at races such as King of the Hammers, it’s a challenge Healy is used to. With only one seat, it’s easier to work with the weight distribution and balance of the car. While not having a co-driver can hurt you at the Hammers, it hasn’t proven to be an issue on the rest of the circuit in the past for Healy and other champion-winning drivers.

IFS

Though Healy retains a solid-axle buggy for his recreational wheeling, an independent front suspension is what he has stuck with under his race cars for years. This plated A-arm configuration uses 2.5 King coilovers paired with 3.5 King bypass shocks. Providing a little cushion for that last stage of compression are King 2.0 bumpstops. In total, this setup cycles 20 inches of total suspension travel. That’s 12 inches of up and 8 of down.

Spider Tracking

Making an IFS setup survive off-road is no easy task. To make sure his long-travel setup doesn’t leave him sidelined, the car was fit with a Spidertrax IFS housing that’s fit with a Gearworks high-pinion third member. The 40-spline ARB Air Locker is secured to the 5.43 gearset. Attached to the housing are Spidertrax 33-spline 300M axleshafts working with Series 30 RCV Performance joints. This setup finishes out with Spidertrax 45-spline Pro Series hubs. Steering the rig is a 7-inch rack-and-pinion steering setup from Howe. 

Trailing Travel

Out back, you’ll find a trailing arm setup fit with a 2.5 King coilover and massive 4.0 bypass shock. The triangulated upper control arms help center the axle and provide bind-free motion for the 25 inches of total travel. Like the front, a PAC Racing 35-spline sway bar increases stability of the car.

Rear Balance

While both differentials get their marching orders from 1480, 3.5-inch JE Reel drivelines, the rear ‘shaft is feeding a custom off-set 4-inch series Spidertrax rear axle. The chromoly housing is fit with a low-pinion third member with a 10-inch ring gear. Bolted to the 5.43:1 gearset is a 45-spline spool. This no-frills locker works with gun-drilled 300M Spidertrax axleshafts, which rotate the Spidertrax hubs. Stopping the setup are Wilwood six-piston calipers.

Recovery

Since Healy is running solo, having a fast-spool recovery winch is a critical piece of equipment. His latest car is using one of the most proven setups in Ultra4 Racing- the Warn 9.0 Rc winch. Replacing the standard hook at the end of the Spydura synthetic rope is an UltraHook from Factor55.

Fueling and Cooling

Offering plenty of fuel for the desert stretches is a Pyrotec 45-gallon fuel cell. This uses dual Aeromotive fuel pumps for reliable delivery. Tucked just in front of the cell is a CBR radiator and electric fan setup. CBR is also the company that was used for all of the oil coolers on the car.

A Winning Combination

One thing that has been a staple in Healy’s racing career, and something he definitely contributes to part of his success, are the Nitto Trail Grapplers he races on. The Trail Grapplers dominated the podium at the 2020 King of the Hammers and allowed him to get through the race with zero flats. Securing the 40x13.50R17 mud-terrain radials are 17-inch Forged beadlocks from Centerline wheels.

Night Vision

A signature look for Healy’s race cars throughout the years has been the red headlights. His latest Ford Bronco 4400 car continues this tradition thanks to Vision X Unite lights. Of course, there’s an assortment of other Vision X LED lights throughout the rig that not only provide safety lighting needed for desert racing, but far reaching vision for when this race rigs sees a late-night challenge (Baja 1000 anyone?).

Command Control

Everything is within arms reach inside the cockpit. From the Lite Racing digital dashboard to the Winter’s shifter moving the Gearworks TH400, Healy has to stay busy scanning and controlling the car on race day. Helping navigate him through the desert is a 9-inch Lowrance GPS, while twin-stick levers operate the 3.0:1 gear-driven Atlas II transfer case from Advance Adapters.

Skinned To Win

Racing at this level takes a lot of help. Thankfully, Healy has some excellent sponsors to make his job title as professional wheelman possible. The custom RTR wrap provides billing for the sponsors and is placed atop aluminum quick-release panels, which allow Healy to service the car with ease.

Fluid Demands

Pushing race cars to the ragged edge is tough on parts most will never see. This is one of the reasons Healy teamed up with Shell Rotella to ensure that his cars fluid demands were not only met, but exceeded. While Shelly Rotella is well known as a go-to oil for diesel platforms, they company also offers high-performance oils for gas vehicles as well.

By The Numbers

Riding on the back of the Paul Horschel-built chassis is a full-size spare wheel and tire. This offers a bit of weight balance and extra insurance on the track. The single-seat car’s main chassis is composed primarily of 2-inch, TIG-welded chromoly tubing. Weighing in around 5,200 pounds with a roof height of five-foot, five inches, it’s a stout race machine. While the weight adds stability at triple-digit speeds in the desert, the 20-inch belly height and 116-inch wheelbase keep it nimble in the rocks.

Fast Start

If you were lucky enough to watch the 2020 Nitto Tire King of the Hammers race, you likely remember Healy keeping his Bronco upfront for quite a while. Taking the pole position on race day thanks to a blistering fast qualifying run, Healy was on pace to take the crown for the third time. However, a bent differential skidplate would slow down his day. Thankfully, Healy would be able to repair the car and go on to take a 7^th place finish. While it wasn’t the podium finish he wanted, the fact that he took a practically brand-new car to the Hammers and nabbed a top 10 finish is still extremely impressive. Though the race season is currently on hold thanks to the global outbreak of COVID-19, we’re looking forward to watching this veteran racer battle it out later this year.

You’ve seen the future, now check out the winningest Ultra4 car.

(Additional photos courtesy of Team Fun Haver) 

With the introduction of the high-pressure common-rail 5.9L Cummins in Dodge trucks for the ’03 model year, the days of mechanical injection were gone for good—but the days of making easy horsepower were just beginning. Cummins might’ve traded in their commercial grade, inline-six mill’s down-on-the-farm past for full-on electronic controls, but in doing so it gave birth to the modern diesel era. Right out of the box, the quieter, cleaner common-rail Cummins produced 305 hp and 555 lb-ft at the crank. By ’04.5, those numbers increased to 325 hp and 600 lb-ft, with torque jumping once again in ’05 to 610 lb-ft. Throw an aggressive calibration at the ECM and you can squeeze somewhere in the neighborhood of 500rwhp out of a third-gen Dodge.

But while it’s easy to coax an extra 230 hp and 450 lb-ft out of the common-rail 5.9L, it doesn’t take long to smoke the four-speed automatic transmission behind it (or the OEM clutch, should your Ram be graced with a hand shaker). Thanks to no shortage of weak links in the 48RE slushbox, it’s best to build it once and be done with things rather than nickel and dime one together and pray that it holds. After that, and if you’re campaigning an ’03 or early ’04 model, go ahead and save yourself the trouble of getting stranded and ditch the factory lift pump. From there (and thanks to your fortifying the transmission), the common-rail injection system and stock turbocharger can support 500rwhp indefinitely. However, if you want to escalate things further, turbo, injector and CP3 upgrades will all be necessary.

Roadblock #1: Automatic Transmission

No different from all the variations that came before it (47RE, 47RH, 46RH and A727), the 48RE has a difficult time handling the kind of torque the 5.9L Cummins can dish out. And as soon as you give in to the irresistible urge to add easy power to an ’03-’07 Dodge Ram 2500 or 3500 in the form of a programmer, all bets are off for the 48RE. An upgraded torque converter, valve body, flex plate, bands, input shaft, you name it, this thing needs it—especially once you move past 400rwhp.

Performance 48RE Parts

To stand up to the kind of power the ’03-‘07 5.9L Cummins’ stock turbo and injection system can support (again, roughly 500rwhp), several reinforcements are in store for the 48RE. First and foremost, a billet input shaft and a quality triple-disc torque converter are mandatory, along with an oversized second gear band, additional direct and overdrive clutches, a high-pressure valve body and a heavy-duty flex plate. The 48RE is one of the most popular automatic transmissions in the diesel aftermarket, but it must be properly reinforced before any type of longevity can be figured into a plan for making more horsepower.

Roadblock #2: ’03-’04 Lift Pump

Like the ’98.5-’02 5.9L Cummins, the factory, engine-mounted lift pump is prone to failure on the ’03-’04 common-rail engines. The only difference in this case is the fact that the failed lift pump doesn’t usually take the injection pump out with it. Located behind the fuel filter reservoir, the lift pump is forced to pull fuel from the tank some 10 feet away, absorbs plenty of under hood heat and endures constant vibration. Ask it to support more fueling from the kind of tuning that makes 450-plus horsepower and you’re practically begging for trouble. To try to quell the issue, Chrysler retrofitted these early trucks with in-tank lift pumps, which live longer due to being able to push fuel to the CP3 high-pressure pump rather than pull it, along with the fact that they aren’t exposed to engine heat or vibration. Still, there are better fixes thanks to the aftermarket…

Aftermarket Lift Pump

One of the simplest and most affordable ways to get around the failure-prone factory lift pump is to install one of FASS’s direct replacement pumps (DRP). The DRP is a direct bolt-on for under hood lift pump applications, but can also be used to replace your in-tank unit when combined with FASS’s suction tube kit. And with a flow rate of 110-gph at 16-18 psi, it not only outflows the factory lift pump tenfold, but it can support a mild injector upgrade.

Complete Aftermarket Fuel System

To support future injector and CP3 upgrades or to better filter and remove air from the fuel feeding the engine, many ’03-’07 Cummins owners replace the factory lift pump with a complete low-pressure system. The chassis-mounted, 165-gph Titanium series system from FASS is extremely popular, can support as much as 900 hp and offers proven long-term durability. This comprehensive system’s 2-micron filtration rating keeps fuel as clean as possible and ensures those expensive common-rail, solenoid valve injectors live a long and healthy life.

Roadblock #3: Overboost Issues

The quickest way to kill the fun of added power on an ’03-’07 Cummins is getting an overboost code (namely a P0234). Stock, the Holset HE341CW turbo aboard the ’03-’04 engines sees roughly 23-24 psi of boost, which is when the internal wastegate begins to open. When added fueling pushes boost beyond that, an overboost CEL causes the ECM to pull fuel and de-rate the engine by as much as 80 hp. The same thing goes for ’04.5-’07 engines fitted with the HE351CW, which could produce up to 32 psi of boost from the factory.

Boost Fooler

Boost fooling is an age-old trick that can either be executed physically (think of a mechanical pressure regulator tied in with the MAP sensor), electronically or through ECM tuning. On top of the boost fooler allowing more boost to be made without throwing a CEL, the internal wastegate has to be altered to open later. The wastegate on the HE341CW (’03-‘04) has to physically be modified to facilitate the production of additional boost. On the HE351CW (’04.5-’07), boost fooling and wastegate actuation can be handled electronically.

Boost Fooling Done Via Tuning

While the HE351CW on ’04.5-’07 engines requires an electronic boost fooler given the fact that its internal wastegate is electronically controlled, boost trickery can also be dealt with in the ECM tuning. Some fueling boxes can provide boost fooling (such as the old-school MP-8 from TS Performance), but calibrations that are specifically written to keep the ECM from looking for any overboost scenario are most common these days. The best example of this would be through the use of EFI Live software on an ’06 or ’07 model truck.

Roadblock #4: Stock Turbo, Injectors and CP3

Aggressive tuning, an upgraded lift pump and with the 48RE’s shortcomings addressed, ’04.5-’07 Rams can see 500 hp and nearly 1,000 lb-ft at the wheels. When treated to the same mods, ’03-‘04 trucks typically make slightly less overall power due to the smaller HE341CW vs. the HE351CW (56mm compressor wheel vs. 58mm on the HE351CW). At this point however, the stock turbo is seeing 35 psi (HE341CW) to 45 psi (HE351CW) of boost and is out of steam. In addition, the stock injectors have given everything they have to offer, as has the CP3 high-pressure fuel pump. Pushing beyond 500rwhp requires you to break ground in three different areas: turbo, injectors and injection pump.

Popular Turbo, Pump and Injector Upgrades

For a turbocharger that supports more horsepower yet keeps an ’03-’07 Dodge responsive, factory-based turbos with bigger compressor and turbine wheels or the S300 line of chargers from BorgWarner have long been go-to options for 5.9L owners. A 62mm or 63mm S300 (i.e. S362, S363) yields great drivability, towing manners and can support north of 650rwhp, with Borg’s newer SX-E versions such as the S369 SX-E showing promising results, too. Injector upgrades typically run the gamut for common-rail 5.9L owners, with 100hp units being a great entry-level option but 60 to 100-percent over injectors (200+ hp) also being regularly chosen and dialed back via ECM tuning in order to allot for future horsepower growth. The most common CP3 upgrade is a 10mm stroker pump (shown above), a direct replacement for the stock unit but that can support up to 800rwhp.

Curious what stands in your ’98.5-’02 Cummins’ way of making more horsepower? Find out how to overcome your performance obstacles here.

For over fifty years, the Mustang has largely been the champion of America's muscle car scene. Whereas the Camaro, Charger, and Challenger have been in and out of production, the Ford Mustang has been sold consistently for better or worse. Spanning multiple generations, Ford has released dozens of special editions, varying from hot-rodded screamers to standard models with little more than sticker packs. While names like Boss, Turbo Jet, Cobra, and SVT bring to mind automotive legends, each generation has had their share of weird, wacky, or just under-the-radar treatments as well. 

1969 Ford Mustang E

Think that the Ford Mustang Mach E is the first Mustang to be concerned with fuel economy? Nope, that award goes to the incredibly rare 1969 Mustang E. Featuring a 250 CID six-cylinder engine, a high-stall torque converter and a rear axle with a 2.33:1 ratio, these fastback only models were limited to a production run of only fifty units. While this model wasn't getting anyone's blood pumping, it did foreshadow Ford's reconstruction of the Mustang name into something more economical during the '70's fuel crisis.

 When the Mustang II arrived, however, there was no option for fast AND efficient. Fast forward to today and enthusiasts have both the Ecoboost turbo four cylinder and the upcoming electric Mustang SUV that allow for a mpg-conscious consumer to still have a car that rips. The Mustang E, while not successful in its own time, deserves recognition for the effort. 

1978 Mustang King Cobra

There isn't a whole lot of love for this generation of the Mustang. From 1974 to 1978, the Mustang lost a lot of what made it so popular in the first place, being replaced by a smaller, less sexy car choked by emissions standards. The King Cobra sat at the top, a special model limited to just 4,313 units. It should perhaps be remembered as the king of appearance packages, sporting a front-air dam, power-front disc brakes, power steering, and a Rallye package with adjustable shocks and rear stabilizer bar. Perhaps most notable however, is the admittedly awesome Cobra decal on the hood. The King Cobra was only available with the 132 hp V8, the unlikely genesis of Ford's 5.0 branding.

While it is easy to poke fun at a car like this as being all bark and no bite, one should consider the near ubiquity of performance-look packages being offered by nearly every manufacturer today. Popular programs like Lexus' F Sport or VW's R-Line, consumers have shown over and over that they are willing to pay for visual flair without the performance. For better or worse, the King Cobra gave Mustang buyers something interesting in a time when there wasn't much going on.

1989 7-Up Edition Mustang

With the release of the fox-body Mustang in 1979, the original American pony car seemed back on track. Ford capitalized on the renewed interest in the car with a slew of special editions, but there is none more strange than the "7-Up Edition." Originally slated as a give-away for a 7-Up sponsored half-court challenge, the contest was canceled last minute. Rather than scrap the program, Ford decided to rebrand the model as a 25th anniversary special edition. Wearing Deep Emerald Green paint, an LX model was given a white interior and top, GT wheels, and cruise control, A/C, and a premium sound system with AM/FM radio and a cassette player. Power stayed at around 225hp. 

With the rise of events like Radwood, these special edition cars have become desirable for collectors looking to relive the unique 80s aesthetic. And with a Miami Vice-esque green on white, there aren't many cars that do it better! 

1995 Mustang GTS

While the more wild special editions disappeared with the release of the fourth generation of the Mustang, Ford did begin to focus on the performance of the core models. The one-year only 1995 Mustang GTS offered the HO 5.0L V8 engine, a Borg-Warner five-speed manual transmission, and stainless steel dual exhaust system of the GT model while forgoing all of the luxurious additions like leather seats, fog lights, and automatic doors locks and windows.

As modern vehicles become more and more loaded with modern technology, safety equipment, and luxury appointments, many modern day enthusiasts beg for a GTS-style option for performance cars. Companies like Porsche can offer stripped-down near race-spec versions of the 911, but the lower profit margins of cheaper cars often mean that the most powerful engine has to be equipped with the most appointed model. Furthermore, manual transmissions are often only available with the most economical engine. Unfortunately, there's not many signs that this trend will reverse, and the sleeper factory cars like the GTS will be a thing of the past. 

2014 Warrior Mustang

In 2014, Ford offered a limited run of 50 modified Mustangs exclusively to active military personnel. Available in either V6 or V8 trim in the buyer's choice of Deep Impact Blue, Black or Sterling Grey, Ford equipped these cars with a host of Ford Racing power-adders. To add some visual flair, Ford tapped the aftermarket for smoked exterior lighting, special body trim, and a billet grill. 

While the Warrior was an extremely limited option for a special group of buyers, the idea of selling modified cars from the factory makes sense for some that don't want the hassle of research, purchase, and installation of aftermarket parts. Manufacturer's like Ford, Jeep, and the recently departed Scion have all offered variations of this program, and it's a cool way to offer special editions with assistance from enthusiasts' favorite brands. 

2015 50th Anniversary Edition Mustang

The modern Mustang has been an incredible success. Building on the progress of the fifth generation, Ford's pony car is now available in enthusiast specs at nearly every price point, from a Performance-Pack equipped Ecoboost to the newly released GT500. The need for the crazy variants of the past to drum up interest in the marque just isn't as necessary as it was in the '70s and '80s. That being said, the 50th Anniversary edition offered some cool touches that paid tribute to the original model. 

Limited to 1,964 units, this special Mustang was only available in Wimbledon White and Kona Blue. It was based on a Performance Pack V8 model and could be paired with an automatic or manual transmission (the 50th is the only way to get an automatic Performance Pack car). The exterior featured exclusive chrome wheels, as well as other throwback chrome touches around the exterior. The 50th also featured rear quarter window louvers installed from the factory, echoing the original 1964 model. The interior was dressed up with a two-tone white/black leather combo that hit all the right retro vibes. On top of all of that, an aluminum plate displayed the build count ID, text reading "Fifty Years," and Executive Chairman (and great-grandson of company founder Henry Ford) Bill Ford's signature. 

Want a Mustang with a little more bite? Don't miss our coverage on the new, 2020 Ford Mustang GT500! 

Many of the custom Jeep builds coming out of Off Road Evolution’s shop in Fullerton, California are built for pure unadulterated function (maybe with a few touches of custom flair) when it comes to off-roading, overlanding and rock crawling. To them, it is what is underneath that counts, the exterior shells of their builds are usually understated. This was not to be the case with their latest project; a 2020 Jeep Gladiator JT Rubicon with both the exterior and interior living up to the quality and performance of what would lie underneath. And it all started with the paint color.

Longhorn Pride

Brad Beldon, hailing out of Texas, got in contact with Mel Wade and the guys at Off Road Evolution to build his new Jeep Gladiator that he could not only show-off, but take wheeling wherever he chose. He also wanted to honor the University of Texas at Austin and their official Longhorn mascot, Bevo. Just as synonymous with UT as Bevo, the long line of Texas Longhorns; is the burnt orange color. So, naturally, Brad had to order his new Jeep in Punk’n Orange (take note Jeep: Burnt Orange is way better a name for this color).

It was soon shipped over to Off Road Evolution, with the main objective of bringing together form and function. The functionality would come from the EVO Double Throwdown suspension and off-road accessories with some style coming from color-matching various components and upgrades to the interior of the Gladiator Rubicon.

Suspension Throwdown

Taking notes from one of the shop’s prior Jeep Gladiator JT builds, the OG40; Mel looked to go all out when it came to the suspension setup on the Bevo Jeep. Starting out with the Rubicon model; the suspension was converted over to a coilover setup with EVO Manufacturing’s Double Throwdown suspension that was color matched to the iconic orange.

A long-arm setup was installed in the front for increased travel and articulation and short-arm kit was mated to the rear. The axles would be replaced with heavy-duty Ultimate Dana 60 axles with a full set of front and rear KING coilovers. The front setup consists of a pair of KING remote reservoir coilovers with a bypass shocks and air bumpstops with a set of remote reservoir coilovers bolted up to the rear of the truck. One critical aspect of the build was to ensure that all of the factory electronics still functioned with the new long travel custom suspension.

Fitting 40s

Planning with the knowledge that a set of 40s can easily find their way under the EVO inner fenders; a set of 40x12.50R17 of trail-ready, aggressive-looking Nitto Trail Grappler M/T tires wrapped around a set of 17x9-inch KMC Grenade Crawl wheels were mounted up. A PSC Big Bore steering setup helps keep the larger Nitto tires under control when the trails get tough.

Tough Styling

The outside of the Jeep Gladiator had to compliment the upgraded suspension as well with plenty of protection and accessories to help Brad out on the trails. EVO Manufacturing is Off Road Evolution’s product line and the rig was outfitted with their full buffet of rugged Jeep parts. An EVO Quarter Pounder front bumper, outfitted with a WARN Zeon 10S winch, was mounted up in front, with an ATP bumper bringing up the rear. An EVO half-roof rack sits behind a full row of KC HiLites Pro Six LED lights with a set of EVO rock sliders and DiamondBack bed cover finishing things off on the exterior.

Bringing that clean, color matched style to the interior of the Jeep is a set of custom embroidered Roadwire leather seat covers with accented orange stitching that was also carried onto the steering wheel, console and door panels. A Rock Hard roll cage was added for safety along with Bartact orange paracord grab handles and orange anodized Agency 6 roof locks.

Iconic Tribute

Brad’s intention was to pay tribute to the UT Longhorn’s iconic mascot, and the new off-road Jeep was the perfect platform to live up to Bevo’s tough heritage. Off Road Evolution brought together a winning combination of show-style and off-road functionality to this Jeep Gladiator Rubicon.

HARD FACTS

Click here to see Off Road Evolution's first Gladiator build, OG40.

The 1994 Dodge Ram changed the game for full-size pickups in America. Radically different from any other truck available at the time, it introduced concepts, styling, and engineering that are still making ripples in its segment today, and in fact is still one of the most significant vehicles of the past 30 years.

For parent company Chrysler, it was a long overdue win. A cascade of financial disasters had hobbled Dodge's truck division since the early 1980s, giving a scant, meager 7 percent market share among customers more attracted to the third-party Cummins diesel engine found in heavy duty models than the Dodge trucks themselves.

The second-generation Ram changed all of that—and it wasn't an accident. Dodge's transformation of its truck division from the island of misfit toys it had become to the strong-beating, profit-churning heart of the entire Chrysler empire was a conscious decision that centered around innovation, determination and a willingness to walk a different path.

No More Business As Usual

As with any revolution, real change came from a group of spirited outsiders seeking to shake up the status quo. Executive Bob Lutz had already made waves with the Dodge Viper, which would go from concept to production in just a handful of years. Unbeknownst to the general public, he had also turned his eye to the rest of Dodge's product in the late 1980s. Like AMC (then part of Chrysler) designer Phillip E. Payne, he was appalled at the lackluster designs for the next-generation Ram, code-named 'Phoenix,' to the point where he decided to take major action.

Lutz's solution was to transform the Ram truck division from Chrysler's backwater to a hub of passionate engineers and stylists eager to make a difference. He did this by insisting, in partnership with fellow Chrysler exec Francois Castaing, that those involved in the project Phoenix project abandon it entirely and instead question the current pickup truck. A six-month time limit was imposed on the design team to come up with something completely different.

Lead, Not Follow

Charged with leading the team, Payne looked at the derivative design of the would-be Dodge with fresh eyes. AMC had long been out of the pickup truck game, selling only ancient J Series and Cherokee-derived Comanches through its Jeep division at the time. Inspiration for the new look Ram came from an unlikely place: the Studebaker Transtar, a 50s-era truck with a bulky visage that gelled well with the brand's own Power Wagon past. Sprinkled in with these traditional, strong truck faces was a hint of 'big rig' design that would come to link the revised Ram with current 18-wheelers.

It was a complete break with what anyone had attempted in a modern truck, and it managed to both be style-forward while still evoking a sense of task-focused brawn that was so important to the more commercial-oriented customers Dodge hoped to court. The Ram didn't just look big, either. It also offered the largest single-cab interior in the industry, and was the only one at the time to offer a reclining front seat. Doors were enormous, which was more than a boast because it made it easier to get in and out of the pickup.

There were never any clay models built for the Ram, with its entire design being done inside a computer followed by model panels being cut from steel. When assembled, the team found a perfect fit that stunned industry insiders who had declared this type of design precision impossible.

How Many Cylinders?

Under that big hood, and ahead of its monster cabin, was a new drivetrain that would attract nearly as much attention. Although outfitted with returnless fuel injection, the entry-level V6 (which ruled the six-cylinder roost with its 175 horsepower), 318 cubic inch V8, and 360 cubic inch V8 'Magnum' motors were largely carried over from the previous truck (same, too, with the Cummins straight-six turbodiesel found in 2500 and 3500 models). On top of these, Dodge sensed that there was a need for a big-torque gas motor for customers who wanted to tow, but weren't interested in a diesel mill.

Enter the 8.0-liter V10, an engine that offered 300 horsepower and a whopping 450 lb-ft of torque, with the latter available from 1,000 rpm all the way up to 4,000 rpm—the sweet spot for anyone tugging a trailer. The steel block engine shared little with the Viper's aluminum V10 (which had been developed in collaboration with Lamborghini), but it did feature coil-on-plug ignition, which was quite advanced in the pickup world of the early-90s. It was a strong complement to the 420 lb-ft of torque on tap from the optional Cummins engine in heavy duty trucks (which also offered an available power take-off system direct from the factory).

Suspension for the Ram would include independent coil springs up front for two-wheel drive trucks, and a solid axle with a link-coil setup for four-wheel drive models. 3500 full ton pickups would use a live axle setup regardless. Rear suspensions featured a coil-link design.

Still Shaking Up The Industry

The effect of the second-generation Ram on Dodge's fortunes was almost instantaneous. Sales of the pickup tripled in the space of a single year, and then almost doubled the year after. Dodge went from selling less than 100,000 units to well over 400,000 in a very short period of time, which transformed its truck operations into a bread basket for the brand that continues to deliver, year after year, to this day.

The Ram would be mildly updated throughout its initial gen two run, including the installation of a set of rear-hinged doors on its extended Quad Cab model in 1998 that would mark the first time an automaker had offered that feature (which would soon become standard in the segment).

The Ram's influence would have major effects not just inside, but outside of Chrysler as well. After going it alone with a fluid-like look for the F-150 immediately in the wake of the Ram, Ford would eventually shift to the same big rig-inspired styling language still embodied by Dodge—as would GMC, Chevrolet, and even Toyota when it came time to produce a legitimate full-size version of the Tundra. Size-wise, post-Ram every brand decided that they, too, had to bulk up their pickups, launching a monster truck arms race that has yet to relax.

Also important, however, was the 1994 Dodge Ram team's decision to focus on its driver and passengers as much as its towing and hauling capabilities. In addition to its large, comfortable cab, the Ram also introduced a long list of equipment that had previously been the province of passenger cars, a move that forced everyone else in Detroit to finally get serious about building fully-featured pickups. That trend has also exploded to the point where luxury trucks now command huge dollars and routinely fill the coffers of Ford, General Motors, and Ram.

It's rare to be able to trace so many important elements of a current class of vehicle to a single model, but the Dodge Ram's place in history is undisputed. The factors that came together to make it the right truck at the right time can be linked to a company whose leadership realized that major change was needed to completely overhaul an underperforming product, and who were willing to take a huge risk in spending hundreds of millions of dollars to develop a vehicle unlike any other on the market. Given how risk-averse the corporate world in general, and automotive industry in particular, has become, it's a power move that may never be seen again.

Want to read more Ram? Check out our profile of the 2004-2006 Dodge Ram SRT-10 muscle truck.

Nitto’s Terra Grappler G2 is everywhere these days. Thanks to this next-generation all-terrain’s above-average performance off-road, quiet ride on the pavement and its tremendous tread life attributes, the G2 is a big hit with the masses. And with fitments available for everything from 17-inch to 24-inch wheels, it’s no wonder the G2 is so popular among truck owners. Included in the 68 different sizes currently on the market, four carry an F load range rating. This makes them ideal for today’s ¾-ton and larger pickups, which have morphed into commercial vehicles disguised as pickups in recent years (don’t laugh, many of them boast GCWR numbers in excess of 40,000 pounds).

This is precisely why we’re putting a set of G2’s to good use on a daily-driven, often-towed-with ’18 Ford F-250 Super Duty. Its various tasks include hauling a skid steer and other equipment to the jobsite, lugging a toy hauler all over the Midwest during the summer months and cutting a path through the snow each winter. To set the truck apart from the rest of the pack, the F-rated 35-inch G2’s will be mounted and balanced to a set of 20x10-inch matte black Krank wheels from Fuel Off-Road. We’ll kick things off this time with the full scoop on our test-set of Terra Grappler G2’s, the 20’s they’re fitted to and the lowdown on the 540rwhp Super Duty that will be turning them.

Next time, we’ll be putting them to work. Hard work. Stay tuned.

35x12.50s

Approved for wheel widths between 8.5-inches to 11-inches, the 35x12.50R20LT NittoTerra Grappler G2 tires we’ve spec’d out are sized perfectly for the set of 20x10-inch wheels we plan to run. Their overall diameter measures 34.53 inches. Overall width checks in (specifically) at 12.52 inches. Also notice the fact that these G2’s carry a load index rating of 125 (more on that in a bit).

Improved Looks, Performance and Stability

To illustrate how much wider the G2’s are than the 275/70R18 tires the late-model Super Duty came with, look no further. To be sure, the Terra Grappler G2’s outweigh the stockers they’re replacing, but for the improved look, performance and stability they offer it’s worth every penny. To keep the truck’s speedometer reading accurately, it will be re-calibrated electronically via a handheld SCT device.

Ready Lift Leveling Kit

In preparation for the larger tread (and eliminating the F-250’s factory rake in the process), a 2.5-inch leveling kit from Ready Lift Suspension was installed. Ready Lift’s powder coated steel coil spring spacers are shown above, with a track bar relocation bracket and shock extensions also being supplied yet out of view here. Not that we anticipated any rubbage from the larger Terra Grappler G2 tires, but the added front suspension height will certainly ensure it’s never an issue.

Well-Rounded

As one of the most popular all-terrain tires on the light truck market, the Terra Grappler G2 is known for its well-rounded capabilities and long tread life characteristics. Whether it’s being used off-road, getting you to and from work or allowing your newer diesel to tow at GCWR, the G2 is an everyday tire built for any occasion. Like the Ridge Grappler, the G2 employs variable pitch tread blocks, making them exceptionally quiet at highway speed.

Coupling Joints & Full-Depth Siping

Developed for utmost durability, the Terra Grappler G2 benefits from reinforced coupling joints, which connect the outermost tread blocks to the center tread blocks. This increases tread block rigidity substantially. For optimum wet weather performance, the G2 also employs full-depth siping, which means the appearance of the tread won’t change even as it wears. As a direct result of these design features, Nitto can stand behind a 65,000-mile limited tread wear warranty on hard metric sizes and a 50,000-mile one on LT-metric offerings.

Dual Sidewalls & Staggered Shoulder Lugs

Like all tires in the Grappler line, the G2 carries two sidewall designs. Customers can choose between the traditional thunderbolt pattern that originally debuted on the Terra Grappler (bottom) or Nitto’s new, aggressive blade design on the other. Notice that the sidewall lugs span half way down the sidewall surface. For added bite and traction off the beaten path, the shoulder lugs are staggered as well.

Load Range F

To keep pace with the gargantuan payload and tow ratings today’s diesel pickups come with, it’s wise for tire manufacturers to offer F load range tires with rigid sidewalls. None of this was lost on Nitto and each of its F-rated versions of the G2 are available in some of the most common sizes truck owners order, including the tires in this test. When inflated to their maximum of 80-psi, each 35x12.50R20 carries a load capacity of 3,640 pounds (hence its 125 load index, which is 3,638 pounds).

Tread Depth

Tread depth is something we’ll be checking regularly, but that we expect to drop gradually (see how well a second test set is wearing here). Brand-new, the tread depth on our 35x12.50R20 G2’s checks in at just a smidge under 17/32” and Nitto lists them at exactly 16.8/32”.

8x170mm Fuel Kranks

These should spice things up a bit. They’re 20x10-inch, D517 model Krank wheels from Fuel Off-Road. Their matte black finish will add the tuxedo-like, black-on-black look we’re after, but the milled edges will help highlight the truck’s various chrome accents (badging, door handles, sideview mirror tops, etc.). This version of Fuel’s D517 makes use of a -12mm offset, 5.0-inch backspacing and is rated for 3,700 pounds.

Mounted and Balanced

Once the G2’s were mounted and balanced, we double-checked air pressure before setting out. For now, we’re running Ford’s factory recommended air pressure, which is 60-psi up front and 65-psi in the rear. Notice that we opted to face the thunderbolt sidewall design outward. Thus far, initial test drives have returned quiet, smooth and sure-footed experiences. Granted, the tires are new and nearly two inches wider than the factory skinnies, but we’ll keep you posted as the G2’s wear in a bit.

More On The Test Mule

For a little more background on the test mule, our ’18 F-250 is a crew cab, four-wheel drive model in XLT trim and has just 18,750 miles on the odometer. The tuned 6.7L Power Stroke V8 under the hood allows the truck to send roughly 540 hp and 1,100 lb-ft of torque to the pavement (vs. 385rwhp and 800 lb-ft stock). It runs well but has never felt 100-percent stable with a big trailer and the factory 275/70R18’s in the mix. We’re hoping the F load range (and wider) G2’s change that. When we check in again, our Super Duty will have spent considerable time hooked to a 35-foot camper and a flatbed trailer with construction equipment tethered to it.

Curious why Nitto’s Grappler line and the NT420S is so popular in the diesel pickup segment? Find out right here.

“I think fast, I talk fast, and I need you guys to act fast if you wanna get out of this.”--The Wolf, from the movie, Pulp Fiction, 1994

If Steven O. Jay drives his 2016 Steeda Q750 StreetFighter as quickly as he talks about it, he'd give The Wolf a run for his money in the speed department. Jay is very enthusiastic about his Steeda-modified Mustang and with good reason; it's a very sexy beast.

Having grown up in a small Kansas town drag racing with Chevys, he is definitely a muscle car guy. When he saw a 2008 Saleen Ford Mustang, though, he jumped ship to a Ford. “I had the Saleen for eight years and blew up a lot of the parts,” he recalls. “When I saw a rendering online of a Steeda custom Mustang, I wanted it. I called up Steeda and they referred me to Bob Adams with Steeda Performance in Detroit. I started at the top with the best you could get. Steeda built this fantastic car no one can beat.”

Let's elaborate on that. Steven wasn't about to go with a Stage One minor hop-up. You don't get that kind of upgrade he wanted with a new muffler and air intake. Steeda pulled out all the stops on his Mustang. Open up the hood on this baby and you'll find a Steeda/Whipple 2.9L Supercharger, and a host of other Steeda parts: High Flow Cold Air Intake System, performance motor mount kit, Severe Duty IRS half-shaft upgrade, and out back, a Bassani Cat-Back Sport exhaust system. It's not exactly the same motor that left the Ford factory...

Nor is the handling anywhere near the same, either. Steeda brought the full power of its G-Trac Stage II Ultimate Package to bear in the suspension. If you think the name is a mouthful, you should see the list of parts. From sway bars and support plates to shocks, springs, steering, and wheel alignment, it's as comprehensive a chassis upgrade package as you can get.

But in Steven's opinion, what really makes the car, at least in the looks department, are the wheels. He hunted around for the perfect set of them online and found it, but there was a catch. “I saw Super Snake in a magazine that had these Weld Racing Wheels,” he told us. “But when I called up Weld, they told me, 'We're sorry, but those wheels are proprietary to Shelby.'” It took some investigating to dig around and find out who actually had a set, but Steven's work paid off. “Bob Adams knows the Mustang designer in Detroit. When Steeda built my car, the guy walked over and said, 'Damn, where'd you get those wheels?'” Steven's CCW SP540 wheel set sports 20x9.5-inchers in front and 20x11-inch hoops at the rear. His tires of choice are Nitto NT05s in the front (275/35R20), with a pair of Nitto NT05R D.O.T.-compliant drag radial tires (315/35R20) in the rear. “Nitto drag radials are the only tires that work on my car for me. They really hold the car down. They're great tires.”

The outside of the car got its share of mods, too. Namely, Steeda's aerodynamic front facia enhancement package, hood struts, and aerodynamic rear spoiler. Both the hood and roof also got the Steeda Q-Series Blackout paint treatment.

Beauty may be skin deep for people but not for cars. Look inside Steven Jay's car and you'll find Steeda front seats, sill plates, and dash emblem. Not only that, Katzkin Interiors laid down a sweet leather upgrade to boot. 

Steven had lots to say about his beautiful car but one thing he'd never say is, “Oh, I trailer it to shows.” No, he didn't get all of this done to drive to the local Starbucks on the weekends and impress the rubes. His StreetFighter lives up to its moniker. “Steeda got me a Star Wars car,” he says. “It's fun to drive, but you get used to the horsepower. I love the sound of the exhaust. That Bassani has a mellow sound to it with no droning. It's my daily driver to work. I taken it to Los Angeles and San Francisco. It's fun, comfortable, and has all the power you'd ever want.” You'd think he'd run it at the track, but that's not the case: “No track. I'm 74. I'm a drag racer, not a road racer. One of my clients hosts road races. I went once to the track and ran four races with it. I lapped the field halfway through the first race. I really think that if you put a real race driver in this car, it would do amazingly well.” And if The Wolf had his Mustang in Pulp Fiction, he'd have gotten to Jimmy's house even faster, and those two guys would've had even more time to clean out the back of that other car.

Love Steeda Mustangs? Click here to see Steeda's "Special Service" Mustang.

First off, no, Honda does not make a competitor to the Land Cruiser, or the Raptor, or the Wrangler. If you want to tackle extra difficult terrain, or climb rocks, or make spirited drives across the desert, there's not going to be a solution here for you. With that caveat out of the way, off-road adventuring and overlanding is booming in popularity. More and more people can't get enough of the outdoors, but not everyone needs a full purpose-built 4WD rig. Throughout its history, Honda has offered AWD in many of its models that would be good contenders for adventuring. For owners coming out of long time Honda ownership, starting with one of these offers a familiarity with these platforms that could prove valuable for purchasing, modification and unexpected off-road repairs. 

1. Honda Acty

The Honda Acty is Honda's longtime contender in the kei truck market. For those that may need a refresher, kei trucks are tiny little cab-over trucks designed for the JDM market. They have, in the past few years, become abundantly available from importers in the US market under the 25 year rule, so it is easy to find a good Honda Acty for sale.

Available from roughly $5k to a little over $10k for a fully prepped model, these 3-cylinder pint size off-roaders make for a great alternative to a more expensive, off-road use only side-by-side. Importers have begun modifying them with lift kits, off-road wheels and tires (stolen from the side-by-side market), and LED lighting to increase capability and complete the look.

2. Honda Orthia

The Honda Orthia is the JDM-only wagon version of the fourth generation Honda Civic. Powered by either a B18 or B20 engine, this capable little wagon was available in FWD or AWD versions, with either an automatic or manual transmission. For a Honda owner that was considering a move to something like a Subaru Outback or Legacy, the Orthia offers a chance to stay with something more familiar.

Released with a myriad of adventuring accessories, the Orthia's shared platform with the more popular CR-V means that the same solutions for increased off-road capability for that model could hypothetically work here as well. The Orthia was released as a 1996 model, so legal import could happen as soon this year.

3. Honda CR-V

The CR-V is undoubtedly the cheapest and easiest way to dip your toe into the Honda adventure community. Unlike other older Civic models, there isn't a large collector market for the CR-V, so sourcing an AWD, manual transmission example is never more than a couple hours on Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace away.

The aftermarket has multiple solutions for lift kits, from spacers, to lift springs, to coil-overs. A common 5-lug bolt pattern also means that aftermarket wheels are plentiful. If you want a manual 4WD model, plan to stick with either the first or second generation, but if you want newer, there are still companies making parts to turn this pedestrian crossover into something a little more capable. 

4. Honda Element

Think of the Element as the more rugged cousin to the CR-V. Sharing many of the same parts as the second generation CR-V, the all-plastic configurable interior of the Element makes for a better starting point for an off-road build. Although aftermarket lift parts are not interchangeable between the CRV and Element, many of the same solutions are readily available.

 Finding a good Element will be a little tougher than sourcing a CR-V. Resale values have stayed higher than average, and cheap models are generally going to be VERY used. Manual models are available, but expect to have to travel a little further to find the exact combination you are looking for. 

5. Honda Pilot/Ridgeline/Passport

Honda's full-size crossover offerings include the Pilot, Ridgeline, and new-for-2019 Passport. Largely mechanically identical from the front door forward, they are offered with a 3.5L V6, automatic transmission, and Honda's latest AWD technology. The VTM-4 system utilizes a terrain select feature offering powertrain optimizations for snow, mud and sand in addition to the normal drive mode. 

Although not extremely deep yet, aftermarket support is promising for the Honda triplets. Companies like J-Sport are working with dealers to offer Honda-supported off-road packages that pair their lift-kit and accessory offerings with more aggressive all-terrain tires like the Nitto Terra Grappler G2. 

To state it again for the keyboard warriors, Honda is obviously not the first choice for an off-road rig. But there are an enormous amount of Honda enthusiasts in the community (even more if we consider the larger off-road power sports market), and for some, staying with a familiar brand is a priority. For some gatekeepers, a CRV will never belong, and that's fine. For others, these options just mean more friends for off-road adventures. 

Ready to make the move to a Honda? Don't miss our review of the second-generation Honda Ridgeline here.

It's a great time to be an off-road enthusiast. Never before have there been so many inexpensive and modern 4x4 options out there, sandwiched between the list of showroom-fresh options on one side and classic trucks and SUVs on the other.

In fact, the 4x4 market has become so diverse that many no longer feel constrained to stick with a factory platform. Instead, off-roaders are picking a frame and body style they appreciate and outfitting it with the drivetrain of their choice to create the go-anywhere rig of their dreams. The aftermarket has swelled to support these mechanical heart transplants, and likewise the amount of wisdom and experience available to first-timers via the Internet.

There's no one-size-fits-all solution when it comes to choosing the best engine swap for your off-road rig, but there are definitely a few major considerations to keep in mind during the selection process. Let's take a look at the criteria most 4x4 fans consider during their build, so you can figure out which ones are the most important to you.

Not Just Power, But Mileage

Massive amounts of big block power can be a lot of fun in any truck or SUV, especially if you have reliable access to the steady stream of gas stations required to support a heavy cubic inch strategy. Out on the trail, however, your fun only lasts as long as the fuel in your tank, and even with auxiliary tanks installed or a stack of jerry cans in the trunk, your fuel mileage is going to determine just how far you can stray from civilization.

This is one of the many reasons that a lot of hardcore off-road fans end up going the diesel route. Traditionally, a turbodiesel swap can add significantly range to almost any platform, and there's a healthy subculture surrounding diesel motors that can substantially improve on what the factory had to offer in terms of efficiency.

Surprisingly, mileage is also one of the more compelling reasons to switch over from an older V8 design to a more modern one. The LS family of eight-cylinder engines from General Motors are compact, offer a reasonable amount of grunt even in stock form, and are often at least twice as fuel efficient as 60s, 70s, or 80s V8 designs.

The same is true of modern V6 motors that are less exotic, and certainly less powerful—we're looking at you, 3.5-liter Isuzu—but which marry a good balance between brawn and efficiency, at very wallet-friendly prices on the used market.

But Power, Too

All of the above isn't to say that power isn't important. Having the right amount of torque, in the correct rpm range, is often the key to getting in and out of difficult off-road situations. Again, this is an area where diesel swaps truly shine, as they produce most of their torque at very low engine speeds which gives you more control in low-traction situations.

When we say power, though, we don't mean to suggest that you need to go overboard. Sure, a built LS engine sounds mean and can churn up mud with the best of them, but there are plenty of people out there in Trackers, Samurais, and similarly-sized rigs that will see power benefits moving to a larger four-cylinder engine that may very well be plug-and-play in terms of the complexity of the swap.

Avoid Breakdowns, Find Easy Fixes

Once you've figured out the level of power and efficiency you want from your project, another way to help narrow down potential swap candidates is to rank them by how reliable they'll be, and how simple they are to fix.

Reliability and ease of repair is a major reason why owners of classic 4x4s often make the move to a more modern drivetrain. Sure, it often costs the same or less to rebuild an older motor to the same level of power, but not all classic engines maintain good driving manners when putting out more grunt than they were designed to do. The same can be said for reliability, as a mightier engine build might simply reveal weak points in the design that are associated with the era in which it was engineered.

In terms of repairs, some older trucks are also reaching a stage where replacement parts aren't easy to locate, and are starting to get expensive. Not only that, but if you're far from home and the local auto parts shop doesn't have a part you need, you're adding extra time and inconvenience to your adventure that might not be an issue if the engine in your vehicle is more common.

All of the above has often been the reason cited for the proliferation of the small block Chevrolet—the first and second generation versions—which share so many parts, and are simple to repair and diagnose. They're still a very popular choice as an inexpensive swap in almost any vehicle, even as they begin to age out and get replaced by equally ubiquitous (although more complex) LS Gen III and Gen IV GM engines.

Stay OEM?

For some 4x4 owners, there's a powerful impulse to keep things in the family when debating an engine swap. Whether you're a brand purist or just want to support the automotive community you're a part of, there's nothing wrong with keeping a Ford engine in a Ford, a Toyota engine in a Toyota, or a Cummins engine in…well, whatever you want, really.

The flip side of loyalty like this is that you'll need to do your research into the practicalities of sticking with an OEM answer. If you're looking at a more modern engine, be aware that some overhead camshaft designs are much wider than pushrods and don't fit in older, narrower engine bays. You may also end up paying more for the same performance you could have gotten cheaper from an outside brand due to availability, so budget needs to be another consideration. Spending more to end up with the right motor for your project isn't always a bad option, but make sure it fits in with your plans before committing to keep things as close to 'original' as you can.

Curious to find out more about 4x4 swaps? Check out this look behind the scenes at deciding which engine to swap into a classic Jeep Grand Wagoneer.

Diesel drag racing has really taken off in recent years. The ability to work a diesel truck Monday through Friday and then hit the drag strip for a little racing on the weekend is unique to this particular niche. Especially in the case of late-model trucks, very little has to be changed to take things from tow-rig status to race mode. And if you can go from work to play on the same set of tires, it’s all the better. In E.T. Bracket classes, where you’re most likely to see work trucks doubling as weekend warriors, Nitto’s Terra Grappler G2 has found a home. For diesels in the sub-700hp zone, the next-generation all-terrains have no problem hooking and getting the 8,000-pound trucks above them off the line.

For entry-level drag racers to more experienced index racers, Nitto’s NT420S all season has been a mainstay in diesel drag racing for well over a decade now. The NT420S is particularly popular in the higher horsepower, 7.70 Index class, where even traction in four-wheel drive can be hard to come by. Most recently, the release of the NT420V—successor to the NT420S but with a stronger sidewall—has been successfully marketed to the diesel crowd. Available in many OE and plus sizes (even in F load range), the NT420V might just be the next big thing in ¾-ton and larger truck tires. For more on how these track-preferred tread patterns perform when it counts, keep scrolling.

Most Popular: NT420S

You can’t attend a diesel event these days without noticing loads of trucks on Nitto NT420S tread. Whether they’re entered in the show ‘n shine, sitting in the parking lot or lined up in the staging lanes, there is never a shortage of trucks sporting this long-revered all season. The NT420S caught on hard years ago when drag racers found that, in addition to its superb wet weather performance and ride quality, it hooked great at the track. Its soft compound, siping across the tread pattern and large outer tread blocks provide plenty of contact with the road, which makes the NT420S one of the grippiest light truck tires on the market.

Traction & Affordability

Thanks to its ability to hook much better than other year-round tires, the NT420S allows owners of higher horsepower trucks that are on the verge of breaking traction to forgo purchasing slicks. This saves them the steps of having to swap wheels and tires at the track or before making the trip home. And not only do the 420S’s make 1.6 to 1.8-second 60-foots possible on most index trucks, they’re much more affordable than the all-terrains or mud terrains you typically find on diesels. One of the most popular sizes of the NT420S for the diesel segment, the 305/50R20 version, can be had for roughly $175 apiece (vs. $300 plus for a comparably sized A/T or M/T).

Grip on the Dyno

Even though Jason Lewis ran a set of cheater slicks to get his lightweight, nitrous-fed Cummins-powered ’06 Dodge 3500 into the 8’s, NT420S tread got the call when it was time to showcase what the truck could do on the dyno. Just like the drag strip, the chassis dyno is a place where traction is key if you want to lay down the best possible number. With the NT420S’s in the mix, Lewis’ Ram laid down 1,446rwhp at the 2018 running of the Ultimate Callout Challenge Qualifier. If you noticed the 5-lug bolt pattern you’re not alone, the factory AAM 1150 was ditched in favor of a done-up Ford 9-inch to save weight without sacrificing strength.

Competing Center Stage

Another U.C.C. qualifier, Dan Lee, trusted the NT420S tread pattern to get him down the track. He was able to put together an 11.22-second pass through the 1320, make 866 hp and 1,322 lb-ft of torque on the dyno and finish midpack overall in a tough, 25-truck field.

Pushing the Limits

For four-digit horsepower street trucks, one of the only tires that offers a fighting chance of finding traction is the NT420S. Brett Jones relied on a 305/50R20 set to get his 1,200rwhp ‘07 Dodge Mega Cab to hook. The compound turbo’d 5.9L Cummins and full-billet 48RE transmission combination gave the 32-inch, 12.44-inch wide rubber everything it could handle, but even with conservative launches at the track the truck would’ve easily been capable of running 10’s.

Making Big Horsepower Usable

One more example of a nasty street truck testing the limits of Nitto’s NT420S is this ’08 Super Duty. Benefitting from a built 6.4L Power Stroke treated to dual injection pumps, 150-percent over injectors and a 63mm/88mm compound turbo arrangement, it sends a dyno-proven 1,089 hp to the rear tires. However, applying that kind of power (along with the 1,900 lb-ft of torque it belts out) to the pavement in two-wheel drive is a fool’s errand. But with the transfer case locked in 4-Hi, the repurposed plow truck pulls like a freight train from 0-140 mph.

Terra Grappler G2: Bracket Racing Approved

Adam Doan is a talented drag racer who regularly competes in the Outlaw Diesel Super Series’ E.T. Bracket and 7.70 Index classes with success. In E.T. Bracket, he sends this crew cab 6.0L Power Stroke-powered Super Duty down the track on Terra Grappler G2’s. Of course, this is usually after he’s unloaded both of the trucks he towed to the event and unhooked the F-250 from the gooseneck. Thanks to his driving skill and consistent traction from the G2’s, it’s not uncommon to see Adam go rounds and make it into eliminations.

The All-Terrain That Truly Does It All

It goes without saying that an all-terrain will be a strong performer in a variety of conditions, but many don’t realize how well the Terra Grappler G2 hooks on pavement. To be sure, this tire has its limitations, but as long as you don’t overpower it the G2 will reward you with ultra-consistent 60-foots. For sub-700rwhp work trucks that race on the side, this is one of the best bang-for-the-buck tires on the market.

Improving on the NT420S: Introducing the NT420V

Building on what Nitto learned about the NT420S’s immense popularity in the ¾-ton and larger truck segment, the NT420V was born. Aesthetically pleasing, featuring an asymmetrical tread pattern and available in virtually every common size from 20 to 24-inch wheels, the NT420V has been well-received in the diesel world thus far. One key advantage the NT420V has over the NT420S is its stronger, stouter sidewall construction. In fact, four of its LT-metric sizes even come with an F load range rating.

A High Performance Yet Tow-Ready Tire

Thanks in large part to its more rigid sidewall, the NT420V allows you to tow at your truck’s maximum GCWR and remain safe while doing it. This is a huge deal for late-model diesels, all of which can lug more than 20,000 pounds by way of the gooseneck hitch and the newest dual rear wheel versions boasting 30,000-plus pound capability. One of the most popular sizes you’ll find at the drag strip is pictured here, the 33.2-inch, 305/55R20, which brandishes a 3,640-pound load capacity.

Coming to a Track Near You

With the aforementioned 305/55R20 NT420V’s under his 11-second capable, ’06 Dodge Ram 2500, Trent Skinner has been competing in the 7.70 Index class (an extremely popular eighth-mile racing category in the ODSS organization). Of course, if he needs to tow at the truck’s max capacity, the F load range tires are right at home there, too. Due to its obvious versatility (traction, towing, quietness, tread wear), look for the NT420V to replace the NT420S as the go-to all season tire in the years ahead.

Select photography provided by Amy Gilbert of Stainless Diesel

Curious which Nitto shines most in the dirt? In the world of diesel truck pulling the Mud Grappler is a bastion when it comes to battling the iron sled.

Hear the words “Electric Mustang” and the first vehicle that comes to mind will probably be the much-hyped and controversial Ford Mustang Mach-E all-electric SUV that will start production in the coming months.

But Ford has also been increasingly pushing the idea of an electrified version of the regular Mustang that we all know and love. Last year’s SEMA show, for example, featured an all-electric S550 Mustang that made 900 horsepower.

But now Ford has gone even further with the introduction of the Cobra Jet 1400, a one-off, all-electric version of the drag-oriented Mustangs Ford has been building for many years.

At a glance the Cobra Jet 1400 doesn’t look much different than other Cobra Jet drag Mustangs, but rather than a big V8 gasoline engine under the hood, the Cobra Jet 1400 is powered by a battery/motor combo that makes, you guessed it, 1,400 horsepower. Along with 1,100 pound feet of torque.

And like all electric cars, that torque comes on instantly and quietly—with its full drag chassis and monster tires Ford says the Cobra Jet 1400 is capable of low eight-second quarter mile ETs at over 170 miles per hour.

Naturally, Ford built the car as a demonstration of its future EV tech in a classic American Motorsport setting, and plans to campaign the car at a public drag event later on this year. Click here to check out their teaser video. Blending a legendary drag racing heritage with a cutting edge powertrain, the Cobra Jet 1400 is fitting mix of the old and the new and no doubt serves as a preview of a new kind of pony car to come. Are you ready?

And along with the Mach E, this could this prove to be just the beginning of the expansion of the Mustang brand?