In recent years, it’s become increasingly harder to conceal the fact that diesels can be made into formidable sleepers. As more and more truck owners uncorked the hidden potential within their engines, the stigma that diesels were slow and only useful for work slowly disappeared. But now that the secret is out, how do you keep an oil burner in stealth mode? First, you pick an ancient platform that’s both lightweight and unassuming. Second, you make your power with one of the most underrated diesel engines in existence. And finally, you make damn sure that, no matter which tires you choose, you never get rid of the factory wheels. Meet our latest exploit: Project Paw-Paw. It’s a 1997 model year F-350 crew cab 4x4 with the 7.3L Power Stroke under the hood.

The 216,000-mile, old body style Ford once spent its days working a farm in central Ohio. Now, in retirement, we’re going to more than triple the HEUI-injected V8’s horsepower without touching the original short-block—and with surprisingly few top-end mods. The parts we do add won’t be cheap or free, but they will be affordable and provide a straight-forward path toward 600rwhp (along with 1,100 lb-ft of torque). To wrap up the build, we’ll visit the dyno and collect low-13-second time slips to confirm our work, and then we’ll saddle the old Ford with a trailer and make it earn its keep.

Move over, grandpa. It’s our turn to drive…

Sticker Shock

Prices vary regionally, but for a clean, near-rust-free OBS Ford with a 7.3L Power Stroke under the hood, you’re going to spend a five-digit figure. It may not be $25K but it will be every bit of 10 to 15-large for a truck in the 150,000 to 200,000-mile range. As old age, salt and accidents inevitably remove them from North America’s roadways, the ’94.5-’97 Fords aren’t getting any cheaper with the passage of time.

Why a 7.3L?

Bullet point numero uno: they’re cheap. Unlike a Duramax, the demand-driven Cummins mills or even late-model Power Strokes like the 6.7L and especially the 6.4L, these things are dirt cheap in comparison. Thanks to being plentiful (nearly 2 million of them were produced), you can find 7.3L’s in the junk yard, on eBay and even under the hood of Uncle Rob’s old plow truck (along with many other workhorses that do a lot of sitting). Usable core long blocks usually go for anywhere between $200 and $700, with complete, running take-outs bringing $1,200 to $2,000.

The Power of Diesel

Thanks to its solid construction at the OEM level, a forged-rod 7.3L Power Stroke (’94.5-’97 and ’99-’00 engines) can be pushed to 600rwhp and still be reliable, so long as you opt for good engine tuning and drive sensibly. This series will highlight how to do that to a “T.” Although our engine will undergo a lot of changes during the course of this build, it will still use a single turbocharger, a single high-pressure oil pump and the HEUI injection system to make its power.

Summary: forged-steel rod bottom ends can handle considerable power, but if you do grenade a 7.3L they’re relatively inexpensive to rebuild or even outright replace with a take-out engine.

The Often-Misunderstood HEUI Injection System

Due to the fuel side of the injection system requiring hydraulic actuation via engine oil, the HEUI system is often misunderstood by many, but it can be dumbed down and easily understood in the following way. Instead of utilizing a traditional high-pressure fuel pump (or fuel injection pump), a high-pressure oil supply pump (HPOP) is employed, and thanks to the injection pressure regulator (IPR) the engine oil in the high-pressure circuit is pressurized between 500 and 3,000 psi. Instead of the fuel rails you’ll find in a traditional common-rail system, there are oil rails integrated within the cylinder heads. High-pressure oil routes through these rails to the oil side (top side) of the injectors where—after entering the poppet valve, acting on the intensifier piston and forcing the plunger downward—it actuates the fuel side, culminating in fuel being sprayed in-cylinder.

Hydraulically Activated, But Electronically Controlled

Despite the various limitations that exist within the HEUI system, the 7.3L can still be made to make respectable power and run cleanly. This is due in large part to the engine being completely electronically controlled, which means the 7.3L has a brain (i.e. the powertrain control module, or PCM) that can be infiltrated and recalibrated. The module on the left is the injector driver module (IDM). It takes its cues from the PCM and (when commanded) is responsible for sending the precise, 110-volt pulse to the injector solenoids in order to fire them. In this project all of our power gains will be obtained through the PCM. The IDM will be left completely alone.

First Step in Breaching the HP Wall

The biggest hindrance in adding horsepower to a 7.3L, especially the ’94.5-’97 versions, is the factory fuel injectors. On the flow bench, the stock units in our ’97 F-350 flow a maximum of 95cc’s of fuel and even with aftermarket tuning can only support 230rwhp. Needless to say, we’ll be upgrading injectors, along with adding application-specific PCM programming at the same time. As far as the injectors are concerned, we’ll be installing the second largest off-the-shelf hybrid injectors you can buy. Their overall flow will be nearly quadruple the stockers and the 7-hole orifices on the nozzles will flow 200-percent more than OEM, providing for a much quicker injection rate.

Docile on the Dyno

Strapped to a DynoJet 248C inertia chassis dyno, the truck made a weak 159 hp at the rear wheels—not an atypical number for a bone-stock yet mechanically sound 7.3L-powered ’94.5-’97 Ford with an automatic transmission. In this condition, Paw-Paw needed more than 19 seconds to crawl through the quarter-mile and couldn’t even hit 70-mph by the time it made it to the stripe. In traffic, it didn't only feel underpowered. It was painfully slow.

Why It’s the Ultimate Sleeper

On appearance alone, the old body style Ford represents the quintessential “grandpa truck” and the factory 16x7-inch forged-aluminum Alcoas will no doubt aid the art of deception. After all, it looks like it belongs on a farm and indeed that’s where the truck came from. As previously mentioned, the fact that we are running the original, 23-year-old 7.3L Power Stroke plays a key role in the sleeper recipe. We’re not swapping a Cummins between the frame rails and we’re certainly not tearing into the engine to add better rods, pistons or throwing in a cam until we have to. Those that know about diesels will write the truck off for being just another slow 7.3L, and those that don’t follow diesels won’t have the slightest apprehension when lining up next to it.

Our last bit of trickery exists in the truck’s weight, or lack thereof. When most people hear the word diesel truck they think ‘heavy.’ They’re both right and wrong on that one. But what a lot of folks don’t know is that the OBS Fords weigh considerably less than a comparable diesel-powered Super Duty. In fact, on race day Project Paw-Paw will tip the scales roughly 1,000 pounds lighter than a late-model F-350 of the same configuration.

Scope of the Build

Before, during and after adding big power to any 7.3L Power Stroke, several areas of concern will need to be addressed. We’ll get started on that in Part 2, where we explain and install the top-end hard parts essential in keeping the valve train happy. After that, we’ll move on to the injector, high pressure oil pump, electric fuel system and turbo upgrades, followed by the transmission build and the installation of traction bars and gauges. Then we’ll hit the track, revisit the chassis dyno and put some weight behind us.

*Bear in mind that there are literally dozens of power recipes for these trucks. Whether you want 300, 400, 500 or 600rwhp there is a combination of parts for you. We decided to go all-in with Project Paw-Paw due to: 1) the fun factor, 2) knowing the truck can still be reliable at 600rwhp and 3) we only use it to tow lighter loads (8,000 to 11,000 pounds), so it’s more of a play toy than a working rig or a daily driver.

Looking for a milder setup for your 7.3L? Check out the proven power recipes listed here!

It's one of the main reasons why car aficionados dream of driving a Corvette. They slip into the driver's seat, turn the key in the ignition and listen as the engine roars to start. Once the Corvette's on the road, it continues its raucous display as it speeds down highways and back roads with ease.

But, to some purists, that dream may be gone now that Chevrolet has decided on a polarizing new feature in its Corvettes. Now, when the engine noises boom through the car, they come in part from the vehicle's speaker system.

Is This Normal?

Although it may be news to some, fake engine noises have long been in use in car design. Automakers have done so for a multitude of reasons. For one thing, hearing the engine purr is a huge reason why people drive sports cars in the first place. So, enhancing that sound builds a stronger connection between driver and vehicle.

Sometimes, carmakers are limited as to how loud they can make an engine. For instance, European regulations prevented Mercedes from making its AMG model's engine as loud as drivers imagined it to be. Exhaust regulations on that continent would affect cars shipped over to the U.S. and beyond. The company said it was too expensive to design and produce different exhaust pipes for different markets. So, they decided to funnel engine sounds through the cab of the AMG to appease drivers who wanted to hear their car accelerating.

Fake engine sounds can also project from the outside of the vehicle as a safety precaution. More specifically, electric vehicles make little noise and can, therefore, be dangerous to pedestrians. The roaring of an engine warns people not to cross the street.

And this particular usage shows that fake engine noises are here to stay. Some estimates predict that, by 2040, 57 percent of all passenger cars will be electric. As such, more and more automakers will incorporate engine sounds into the design of their vehicles to mimic the noises we know—and love—our cars to make.

Does the Corvette Need a Fake Engine Noise?

It makes sense to hear that electric cars have to compensate for a quiet engine with manufactured noises. But the Corvette? These sportscars are known for their powerful engines—using fake sounds could signify the engine has lost some of its power in a redesign.

Don't be fooled, though—the Corvette is still just as much of a muscle car as it has always been. The 2020 Corvette Stingray, the brand's entry-level sports car, comes with a 6.2-liter V8 engine. This gives the Stingray a powerful 490hp and 460 lb-ft of torque, the most ever for an entry-level Corvette. With the optional performance exhaust pipe, both of the latter figures increase by five apiece. All of this amounts to a car that's far from quiet.

Where you might not hear the engine revving is in the cabin of the car. Depending on how insulated the interior is, you might not be as in tune with the sounds the engine's making. And that could very well be why Chevrolet has begun playing engine sounds through the speaker.

Does it Matter?

You might recoil at the thought of fake engine noises but, ultimately, it's not the end of the world. There are so many more important details to consider in your vehicle apart from its use or avoidance of faux revving and roaring sounds.

When it comes to the aforementioned Stingray, the car comes with a slew of enviable features that car lovers should focus on before the fabricated engine noises. The engine itself is worth noting, as it sits at mid-range rather than in the front of the car. As such, the driver's seat is situated almost exactly over the front axel. This positioning makes the car even easier to steer and more responsive in the process.

As you likely know already, these are the features that matter. Regardless of the car, you should seek out engine quality and performance rather than the presence or absence of sound effects. Then, do your part to maintain the engine so that it works—and sounds—great for years to come.

Should I Buy a Car that Makes Fake Engine Noises?

There's nothing like getting behind the wheel of a car and hearing the engine roar. But don't let a car company's use of faux sound effects deter you from buying a particular vehicle. The sounds are only part of it — you also get to roll the windows down and whip your car around curves and cruise down highways. And we think that's enough of a reason to buy the Corvette, fake sounds and all.

Read about the future of new electric trucks, here.

When you’re in the business of selling aftermarket parts, it’s never a bad idea to have real-world experience to back up your recommendations. The guys at Offroad Power Products are known for their collection of extremely well-crafted late-model 4x4s. Some of these rigs fall in the heavily modified and one-off custom category, while vehicle’s such as the company’s 2018 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon shown here are comprised entirely of off-the-shelf parts.

While it would have been easy for the OPP team to swap out the stock turbo-charged four-cylinder engine and AdvanTEK Series Dana 44 axles for something more substantial, that would not have provided the on-the-trail experience that helps differentiate them from many other retailers in the market. Pairing the stock Rubicon axles with a set of 40-inch Nitto Trail Grapplers mounted on 17-inch KMC beadlock wheels is definitely pushing the stock drivetrain way outside of the factory specs, but that’s the point. With Cooper “Smash” Ramussen behind the wheel, there will be no shortage of limit testing.

We caught up with the OPP team earlier this year in Moab, Utah, for the annual Easter Jeep Safari event. There, Cooper was doing his best “rock ballerina” dance with the all-new JL platform. We’ll be checking back on this setup soon to find out just how well everything is holding up.  

Check out another 2.0L-powered JL that isn't afraid of little hangtime. Send it with Synergy!

How about some good news and bad news? First the bad news—in a press release today Ford confirmed it won't be officially be revealing the much anticipated 2021 Ford Bronco until the spring of next year at an unspecified debut event. The good mews—in the meantime we've gotten a fairly big hint at what the new Bronco will look like in the form of a new race-inspired prototype.

Dubbed the Bronco R, the race-ready prototype was built to pay homage to the original Bronco that Rod Hall and Larry Minor won the 1969 Baja 1000 in. And the new version will run in the 2019 Baja 1000 with Rod's granddaughter Shelby Hall taking the wheel during portions of the race.

As for the rig itself, Ford says the prototype was built both to pay tribute to the first generation Bronco and to specifically hint at the shape of the new Bronco, although how similar they are remains to be seen.

Few details were released about the Bronco R's mechanicals, although Ford did confirm that it is built on a modified version of the T6 midsize platform that will underpin the production Bronco and that the "twin turbos of the EcoBoost engine are representative of what the production Bronco will offer."

At the very least, it's nice to hear that the Bronco will at least have a twin turbocharged engine option that make more power and torque than the 2.3 liter EcoBoost engine that powers the American market Ranger.

So while we don't know how much this purpose-built race machine and the production 2021 Bronco will share, but as we continue to wait for the official debut we at least know a little more than we did yesterday.

And, if you'd like to read more speculation about what to expect from the new Bronco you can check out our preview story right here.

Chevrolet and Carhartt unveiled a truck that might be the hardest-working truck ever designed: the 2021 Silverado HD Carhartt Special Edition.

“Over the last century, both Carhartt and Chevrolet have earned a reputation for building long-lasting products that stand the test of time,” said Janet Ries, vice president of marketing at Carhartt. “This truck represents a true collaboration of our brands coming together to create a durable, purpose-built truck for people who not only work hard on the jobsite, but also live a rugged lifestyle.” 

Surprisingly, both brands are from Detroit, Michigan (which makes collabs easier)— the two brands first teamed up for the 2017 Silverado 2500HD Carhartt concept vehicle at the 2016 SEMA Show. “When the concept vehicle was shown, consumer response exceeded even our highest expectations,” said Brian Sweeney Chevrolet U.S. vice president. “Listening to the enthusiastic feedback of show-goers and trucks enthusiasts led to the development of the production truck that customers have been clamoring for.”

Clearly, this decked out pickup is based on the Silverado 2500 LTZ crew cab, and then coupled with the Z71 Off-Road Package, which includes tuned, twin-tube Rancho shocks, “Hill Descent Control” and skid plates so the truck has some protection off-road.

Don’t look for a variety of colors for this special edition, as it is only offered in Mosaic Black Metallic, but the color looks fantastic when matched with pinstripe detailing in Carhartt gold, Carhartt badging on the doors and tailgate, 20-inch All Terrain tires and a soft rollup tonneau cover embossed with the Carhartt logo. Black vent hood detailing, tow hooks and a tailgate bowtie lend more dramatic styling, while a chrome grille surround and inserts, along with body-color front and rear bumpers, add to the distinctive exterior styling and the truck’s overall impressive presence.

The Carhartt-theme extends into the interior (as it should) and draws in all-weather floor liners with the Carhartt badge, along with beautiful two-tone Jet Black and Carhartt Brown leather-appointed seats with distinct stitching and Carhartt embroidered headrests.

The production Silverado HD Carhartt Special Edition will be on display at the 2019 SEMA Show and will be available for sale in fall 2020.

Read all about the 3.0L diesel engine version of the 2020 Silverado, here. 

Hot Wheels did it again: Another legend was brought into the spotlight during SEMA 2019, and this year they pulled out all the stops. The panel of judges included industry celebrities like Jay Leno, Richard Rawlings, comedian Adam Carolla, and racecar driver Collette Davis. Motortrend’s Editor-in-Chief, Edward Loh, and Larry Wood, Hot Wheels Designer since 1969, were also in the lineup.

The 15 finalists are judged based on three main categories: authenticity, creativity, and garage spirit. In other words, the winning car naturally looks like a Hot Wheels diecast in full-size form, was built and not bought, and is a brainchild with never before seen characteristics.

And the Winner is…

California resident Greg Salzillo rolled the dice and lucked out as this year’s Hot Wheels Legends winner.

His 1957, lovingly named “Nashole,” will be inducted into Hot Wheels Garage of Legends and enjoyed by children and adults alike as a Hot Wheels collectible diecast.

Previously featured in Rat Rod Magazine, Nashole is powered by a 300-hp small-block Chevy 305 which breathes through custom fender-exit headers. “For us to build something ourselves in a garage and to have it live on in a Hot Wheels model is amazing,” Salzillo said, nearly in tears. “I have two boys, 2 and 5, who love Hot Wheels as I did growing up.” He gets bonus bragging rights for spending under $10,000 to complete the build.

Legendary Mentions

The competition was fierce and every runner up was unique in its own way. Take Effi Muniz’s “Kin Kon” for example.

Muniz built the Ford COE’s chassis from scratch, and it rests on air ride suspension. The exterior was painted custom and the interior is original patina. It’s powered by a 6.0-liter Vortec engine, and the entire build took Muniz two years to complete.

Yes, it has a HEMI

A HEMI-powered 1972 Chevy Luv made an appearance. Ron Fehring started the project 41 years ago with his brother, who sadly passed away at a young age. Over six different types of cars were put together to create what Fehring now refers to as the “Love Truck.”

The only thing unmodified is the grille, and everything else was customized by hand. This build represents the loving memory of his brother and the great times they had.

One Fast Build

This International “Harvestar” was designed and built by Calvin Lutz in Bentonville, Arkansas.

He found the cab on Craigslist and pieced it together with assorted parts from his shop. The build took him only 3 months to complete.

It Takes Two

It’s good to be square when you are a gasser-style 1971 VW Squareback. This VW was hand-built by Ron Howe and his two sons in 2016.

The named “Two Cool” appears on each side, which represents the two air-cooled engines that the car is powered by.

Built for Cruising

Believe it or not, this super low 1968 Toyota Land Cruiser was built from the ground, up from a barn find. In fact, it was so rusted out that builders Bob and Chad Colfer and Jon Lagler were forced to work with whatever was left of the Toyota.

The original engine was M.I.A., so they shoehorned a BMW V12 into the engine bay. The result isn’t too shabby if we do say so ourselves.

Want to see even more Hot Wheels Legends? Check out last year's lineup.

With the auto industry as a whole moving more and more into the world of electrification it's not surprising to see the aftermarket starting follow suit. And as the potential of EV conversions for vintage and enthusiast vehicles continues to go up, GM has lead the charge with a new concept electric crate motor setup at this year's SEMA Show.

To demonstrate what an application of an electric crate motor setup might be like, a 1962 Chevrolet Pickup was transformed into a one-off concept called the E-10 which has been outfitted with a number of parts from GM's production EV parts bin.

Sitting in the bed of the vintage pickup are a pair of 60kwh batteries from the Chevy Bolt EV, while up front where the engine would be are a pair of "eCrate" electric motors, also borrowed from the Chevy Bolt.

This really isn't much different from Chevy's existing line of crate motors and turn-key swap kits which take the engines and technology of GM's current performance machines and make them available to anyone who is building an old project car.

What's interesting is that the motor setup has been mated to a traditional 4L75-E automatic transmission, which GM envisions being sold in a complete "Connect & Cruise" package. When packaged in the E10, Chevy says the setup is good for 450hp to the wheels and a 0-60 time of about five seconds.

And for those who may be turned off the silent nature of the EV drivetrain, the E10 even has a system that will pipe in the soundtrack of various V8 engines or even another engine note that Chevy simply calls "futuristic."

While Chevy says the eCrate is still in the testing stage at this point, there's a lot of reason to be excited about this idea. Sure it certainly won't come cheap, and you'll have to consider battery placement when planning a project, but there's something very cool about a vintage vehicle with a modern electric drivetrain.

It should also be said that for those of us who live in states with strict emission laws like California, the idea of electric crate motors also opens a world of possibilities for cars which are subject to endless and tedious rules when it comes gasoline engine swaps.

As with any new technology it's safe to assume batteries and motors will only get cheaper and help make EV conversions more realistic for weekend warriors, and at the very least it's nice to GM making progress into this new frontier of hot rodding. It may not be for everyone, but there seems to be no stopping the electric movement, even when it comes to vintage iron.

Of course it's not just in the world of hot rods and vintage cars where we've started to see electric conversions get more popular, this year even saw the debut of an all electric Chevy Camaro in Formula Drift, and you can check out our detailed breakdown of that unique machine right here.

Whether it's across the Pacific in Tokyo or here in the US at the SEMA Show, there seems to be no stopping the electric cars. Earlier this week we took a look at GM's new "eCrate" concept designed as a EV retrofit for vintage cars and trucks, and not to be outdone Ford also showed off a custom EV project at SEMA, this one based on the current Mustang.

Called the Mustang Lithium, the project was done as a collaboration between Ford and Webasto in order to show the potential of the Mustang as a high performance EV in the coming years. Ford hasn't been shy about its electrification plans with a "Mustang-inspired" electric crossover already confirmed for production and plenty of other EV projects in the works.

As for the Mustang Lithium, its 5.0 liter V8 engine has been removed and in its place are a a Phi-Power dual-core electric motor supplied by an 800-volt Webasto battery. Ford says the setup is good for a pretty amazing 900 horsepower and over 1,000 pound feet of torque.

But what's especially interesting is that all of that electric power is fed through a traditional six-speed manual gearbox—a beefed up version of the Getrag MT82 to be exact. This stands in stark contrast to almost all production EVs which use single speed automatics.

While it would be hard to pass judgment without driving one, the idea of a manual transmission in an EV is something that could potentially bring back some of the driver involvement many say electric lack, even if it was used at much more modest power levels.

For now the Mustang Lithium will remain a one-off project, but given Ford's all out push towards EVs and plug-in vehicles the introduction of an actual all electric Mustang seems more a matter of "when" then "if." Here's hoping the inevitable electric Mustang experience will be worthy of the car's long history of performance and fun.

For a different type of EV experience, check out the AWD "baby GT-R" Leaf prototype that Nissan has been playing with. 

SEMA 2019 saw a sea of Supras scattered across every hall in the Las Vegas Convention Center, but the booth that had the most was Toyota, of course. Amongst the Official Pace Car, the NASCAR racecar #20 and last year’s Supra Racing Concept were five of our favorite new concepts.

Hyperboost Edition

The GR Supra Hyperboost Edition is the most intense build in the lineup. It’s the brainchild of Toyota and Rutledge Wood, NASCAR analyst and former host of the American version of Top Gear, who loves the Supra so much he wanted to create an insane version of his own to reveal at this year’s SEMA Show.

It’s 20-piece carbon fiber wide body kit is the most eye-catching aspect, but the real goodies are hidden under the hood. Its BMW-derived turbocharged inline-six is boosted to 750hp, made possible by a Boost Logic BL Supra 750 Package turbocharger. That’s more than double the power compared to the stock Supra. A new downpipe and titanium exhaust system, also from Boost Logic, KW V3 adjustable coil-over suspension and big Brembo brakes complete the high-performance package.

Heritage Edition

Perhaps the most subtle of the Supra concepts is the one that hits Supra enthusiasts right in the feels: the GR Supra Heritage Edition. It is Toyota’s way of paying homage to the Mk 4 Supra, which is where the tall, curved rear wing came from. The round LED elements in the head—and taillights are also a nod to the Mk 4.

Other aesthetic changes include an accentuated front splitter, vented front fenders, new side skirts, and a diffuser with a center-exit exhaust. The inline-six is boosted to 500-hp with help from a freer-flowing turbo, custom intake and new engine management software. A Scarbo Performance inboard rocker arm system, HRE wheels, TEIN coil-overs and Brembo brakes round out the performance upgrades.

3000GT Concept

The Supra 3000GT Concept immediately caught our eyes with its aggressive appearance. Inspired by the previous limited-production TRD3000GT wide-body kit, the car’s vented hood cutouts and massive rear spoiler mirror that of the original.

The body is wrapped in brushed silver and gold vinyl to bring out the bold lines. Low stance is provided by TEIN Street adjustable coil-overs, and Brembo GT-S Monobloc brake calipers peek out from behind the spokes of 19-inch TWS Motorsport forged-aluminum wheels. The powertrain remains stock with 335hp.

2020 Toyota GR Supra Wasabi Concept

There’s no question where the name came from: the glowing green hue is rather spicy. The Toyota Genuine Accessory Team created the 2020 GR Supra Wasabi Concept as a gauge to measure consumer interest in added racing components, which, if well received, could become available in Toyota’s catalog.

The build benefits from enhanced bodywork, including a larger splitter, diffuser, side skirt elements, and a high-mounted rear spoiler. Dual tips on Toyota’s 102-mm “Super Single” center-exit exhaust give the Supra a deep, throaty exhaust note, but Toyota doesn’t say if it increases power. The chassis is suspended on Ohlins Road & Track coil-overs with monotube dampers which adjust accordingly to accommodate perils of the street as well as maintaining optimum traction on a groomed track. 

GT4 Concept

Most recognized by its mean red and grey livery, the GR Supra GT4 Concept is even more lightweight than the commercially sold Toyota Supra, even with added race-specific parts such as roll cage, suspension, big brakes and an enlarged race-inspired rear wing.

The concept retains the factory turbocharged straight-six mated to an automatic transmission. TOYOTA GAZOO Racing developed the concept as a racing study model based on the GR Supra to explore the possibility of using the GR in privateer motorsports racing.
Toyota's focus on motorsports only gets more advanced. Click here to learn more.

It seems year after year, off-road rigs turn out in bigger numbers at the annual SEMA Show in Las Vegas. And perhaps one the fastest growing segments is the adventure and overland vehicles that are built for the show. But this isn't a fluke or a trend; it's exactly what the market wants. As the OEM's continue to promote off-road ready trucks and SUV from the factory, support from the aftermarket has undoubtedly soared in the same direction. Certainly overland and off-road capable rigs have been shown at SEMA for many years, but their numbers have grown exponentially in recent years, much thanks to the exploding aftermarket support. Off-Road companies who were once known for presenting hardcore rock crawlers and championship-winning race trucks in their SEMA booths have traded them in for milder, more attainable vehicles featuring parts designed to be both practical and aesthetically pleasing to newer platforms such as the Jeep Gladiator or Toyota Tacoma.

Almost overwhelmingly, the Jeep Gladiator was the platform of choice for many booths in the off-road sections of the show. Even though the first Gladiators began shipping from Jeep in the early summer, many of the builds we saw had some pretty extraordinary modifications done to them. Everything from bed racks, roof top tents, long arm suspension systems, coilover conversions, 40-inch tires, one-ton axles, and even a few V8 swaps were present in Gladiators around the show. It quickly became clear that the Gladiator had finally bridged the gap between the rock crawlers and overlanders, being such a versatile and easily modified vehicle. Builders who have long specialized in Jeep customization took to the Gladiator with ease, and their experience was evident in their builds. One such rig was found in the Rock Slide Engineering booth, showing off their beefy, and extremely useful step sliders. This Gladiator, dubbed Iron Man JT, built by Rebel Off-Road featured some of the best parts currently available to the platform.

Perhaps one of the more interesting new trends we found at the 2019 SEMA show was the highlighting of overland and off-road builds in booths that historically had no direct ties to outdoor adventures. For example, this fully-kitted Colorado Z71 was featured in the Gentex Corporation booth, located far from any other off-road booths. Gentex Corporation is a global technology company that provides products for the automotive and aerospace industries, such as blind zone cameras, lighting, and driver assist systems. Finding an overland-built Colorado in their booth made a statement that the future of the auto industry responds to builds like these.

However, SEMA has always been a world stage for builders and fabricators. While the bolt-on builds have taken over many of the halls, there's still some home-built diamonds to be found scattered about the show. One such vehicle was brought all the way from Lincolntown, North Carolina, to make its debut appearance after a two-year build process. Tim Odell, owner of Vice Unlimited, finished his turbocharged, LS-swapped, Diamond-T IFS Ultra4 project just weeks before hitting the road for SEMA. Each part of this build was carefully handcrafted by Tim. The quality of the workmanship and creativity is endless in this vehicle. We can't wait to see what Tim does with this ultra-unique Ultra4 build!

Although SEMA builds used to be nothing more than show vehicles, the off-road world has shaken the norms of this show to its core. The halls of SEMA are now filled with hundreds of vehicles that you can find out in the dirt on any given weekend, being used to its potential. As the outdoor lifestyle and off-roading continues to pick up steam, companies who support the enthusiasts are doing everything they can to keep up with the demand. In fact, it may be time for an off-road only SEMA show, because we don't anticipate this trend going anywhere anytime soon.

Click through the gallery below to see some of the best off-road and overland rigs at the show this year!

Going back to to the early factory sport trucks of the 1990s, there's always been something cool about a pickup that's built to do more than just haul stuff, and thanks to the capabilities of modern performance technology Shelby American has just unveiled what's easily one of the most impressive performance pickups we've ever seen. Meet the Shelby Super Snake Sport F-150 Concept.

When it comes to making Fords go to fast, it's hard to top the experience of Shelby American and this time around they've used a short bed, standard F-150 as the base for a hot rod pickup with supercar levels of power.

Sitting under the hood is a supercharged V8 making 755hp, which if you are keeping tabs is just five horsepower less than the brand new Shelby GT500 Mustang. And while a modern F-150 is certainly no lightweight the Super Snake Sport's short bed, single cab layout should give the truck a very healthy power to weight ratio.

Of course, Shelby American did a lot more to the Super Snake Sport than just add a bunch of horsepower and call it a day. The truck has also gets thorough chassis upgrades, with coilover suspension, traction bars and a set of massive six-piston brakes up front to slow things down.

And helping to put all that power to the ground are a set of 305/40/22 Nitto NT420S tires mounted on a set of black-painted 22" Carroll Shelby Wheel Co. aluminum alloys. Together with the upgraded suspension, the high performance wheel and tire combo should make Super Snake Sport a pretty fun ride when the road gets twisty.

Elsewhere, the Super Snake Sport gets a more aggressive exterior treatment which includes a scooped hood, a unique front bumper and grille and a front splitter that gives the pickup a cool, track-ready vibe. And don't forget the iconic Shelby racing stripes either.

After hearing what Shelby American says about the concept truck, it definitely brings to mind the supercharged SVT Lightning of the early 2000s but in a more modern form and with nearly double the horsepower under the hood.

While the market for a 755 horsepower performance-oriented street truck is always going to be a niche one, we love that Shelby American has fully embraced the idea of the pickup turned muscle car, and we wouldn't be surprised at all to see a production version available for purchase soon.

And while speaking of Shelby, don't forget to check out the trailer for Ford v Ferrari which will be hitting theaters later this month.

Want more Shelby goodness? Check out the all new 2020 Shelby GT350R

SEMA is the one-stop industry show to view every niche in the automotive hobby under one roof. (Well, several roofs, but that’s beside the point.) Prominent trends are distinguished every year, and we got our steps in to bring you these top ten products that stood out above the rest, plus a gallery.

1. Take Shelter: Roof Top Tents

Overlanding has taken the world by storm, and with the universal love of exploration and living in the moment came a downpour of products that make traveling off the grid even more enjoyable.

The very first awnings were single rectangular panels supported by beams and tie-downs. Those are still fine and dandy, but the new pole-free batwing style awnings offer ample coverage from inclement weather and the beating sun. Not only that, but now running face-first into a pole or tripping over ropes is no longer a thing.

2. Get Organized: Overland Racks 

So, you find yourself collecting tons of fun off-road gear, but where to put it? Overland rack systems are an excellent solution for permanent spots to store equipment like emergency recovery gear, spare gas and water and even a rooftop tent.

Extra fancy setups with vehicle safes, cargo sliders and locking drawer and cabinet systems also made their way into the market. The refined organization allows overlanders to take more necessities along for the ride.

3. Exploring Made Easy: Overland Gear

Rooftop tents dominated the off-road and overland area at SEMA, with off-road trailers being close behind as the more expensive option.

There’s a rooftop tent to fit every need, whether you need something lightweight to install on your sedan, are looking for one to fit a family of four, or demand a full uncovered starry night view.

4. Big Fun: Extra-Sized ATVs

Go big or go home. Standard size ATVs are tons of fun, so why not go bigger? We spotted several “Super ATVs” throughout the show, more than previous years.

Seriously, these things tower over every person who walked by. We can see why this trend would catch on: hitting larger obstacles with more height and power would be big fun, indeed.

5. Mad Style: Glamour Rat Rods

Glamour rat rod displays were at an all-time high. Love them or hate them; these builds will grab your attention either way.

The outside-of-the-box creativity and attention to detail had us doing double, triple and quadruple takes every time. The next time you pass one, look closer to find all the hidden extra touches.

6. Everyone is Gettin’ Low: Air Bags

Air ride suspension is all the rage. It’s not just for custom lowriders anymore.

Muscle cars, competition vehicles, and even lifted trucks benefit from the versatility and convenience that air ride systems have to offer. In fact, when appropriately installed, a quality system can outlast standard suspension. Oh, and have you seen air jacks? Same concept. Boy, we’d love to have one of those in our garage.

7. Wings Aren’t Just for Flying: Big Downforce

We see it on the racetracks, and now it’s everywhere on show floors.

Watch your ankles and shoulders because aero components just keep getting bigger. After all, competition is so fierce that the next fastest speed could all come down to who travels fastest through corners.

8. Jeep Trucks: Gladiators Everywhere

The word on the interweb has it: Widebody Toyota Supras ran rampant across the SEMA. That’s true, but there’s another strong contestant for the most-seen vehicle at the show.

The Jeep Gladiator held a strong presence next to the Toyota Tacoma. It’s Jeep’s first pickup in 26 years, so it’s kind of a big deal.

9. Nitto Tires: The Tire of Choice for Top Vehicle Builders

From high-performance track cars to big off-road rigs, Nitto was the one of the most prominent tire companies seen at SEMA.

The word is out about their unbeatable performance. We saw a set of Nittos wrapped around the wheels of display vehicles at every turn on both cars and trucks with the Trail Grappler and Ridge Grappler the standout tires for trucks and the NT555 G2 and INVO the most popular for street vehicles.

10. Diamonds (Sequins) are Forever: A Bit of Bling, Bling

This one is obvious. Shiny, sparkly things are bright lights are trends that follow through to every SEMA. But have you ever seen anything quite like this?

Yes, those are engine components adorned in diamond-like sequins. They kinda look like Liberace inspired engines—which is appropriate for Vegas. We can only assume that this was used as a ploy to grab the show-goer’s attention, and it worked.

Want to see more cool stuff from SEMA 2019? Take a gander through the gallery below.

Often mistaken as the biggest car and truck show, the annual SEMA Show is actually a trade event. Though it was created with the intention of promoting sales for the leading automotive aftermarket producers, this show brings out the industry’s best customizers. Part of this event’s allure is the many different vehicle builds that showcase all the latest and greatest offerings. It’s all part of a ploy to attract potential buyers to booths and sell parts.

Despite the secret agenda of this event, we can’t help but notice all the amazing rides it brings out. Not only do parts manufacturers want to show off their best stuff, the builders like to take part of the limelight by showing off their customizing skills. The event is a place where anyone who is anyone in the scene must be in attendance to prove their skills.

One thing that keeps us coming back is the abundance of slammed pickups. There is an ongoing debate on the purpose of lowered trucks, and we define it as a way builders defy traditional thinking about how a truck should look. The act of taking a vehicle built to serve and giving it the ability to do so much more makes things very interesting. Every year we are stunned at what builders are able to come up with and here are five trucks that made us do a double-take.

1. Brown Sugar: ’83 Chevy C10 Camper

It’s not easy to come up with an original theme for a truck that hasn’t been done by someone else before, but the folks at River City Rods and Fabrication have been able to stun us each year.

This time around, Craig Piggott and his team decided to take a classic long-bed Chevy pickup and turn it into the ultimate show/travel vehicle. Starting with the chassis, it was upgraded with air ride components from GSI Machine and Fabrication.

Then, the custom camper was made entirely from scratch and now has an interior styling of a modern home. Helping to make this beast drivable is a 5.3L Chevy LS engine and Curtis Speed wheels wrapped in Nitto Dura Grappler tires to handle the heavy load of this beast.

2. Boneyard Builds ’70 Chevy C10

For owner, Brody Stone, he’s always had a soft spot for diesel-powered trucks. Years back he had an idea to combine his passion for rolling coal with a want to attack autocross course in a pickup.

He stumbled across a donor LML Duramax engine and with help from Boneyard Builds, the project kicked off. Making this truck handle like it’s on rails is a Roadster Shop chassis combined with 19” Rotiform wheels and Nitto INVO tires.

The diesel engine was then upgraded with a Wehrli Fabrication compound-turbo setup that is exposed through the hood along with a custom hood stack. The truck has been cleaned up and additions like the rear spoiler complete the racing theme.

3. Premier Street Rods Patron ’57 Chevy

Recently, Rob Logsdon and his team at Premier have made a name for themselves by introducing the world to their reproduction mid-century GM pickup cabs and other sheet metal products.

To showcase these products, they have produced some wicked rides that are next level. Patron started off as an idea to build one of these trucks with a pro-touring theme. Underneath is a GSI Machine and Fabrication chassis that holds down the power of the LT4 supercharged engine.

The exterior was then accented with race-inspired modifications. The silver-painted body was broken up with a carbon fiber wrap and red pinstriping. Topping it all off, the inside side of the cab has a mini cage along with interior pieces created and upholstered in leather by Ron Magnus.

4. Mark Austin’s ’65 Chevy C10

The team at Creative Rod and Kustom are known for building top-notch rides. In previous years, their work has fetched a coveted GM Design award twice.

Following up on their success, Mark Giambalvo and his crew completely redesigned this truck to have a super smooth appearance. To name a few things, the top was chopped, the rear of the bed was completely reshaped, and the hood was completely changed to have only an opening center section. Peeking out on the front end is the 572ci big block Chevy engine with stacked injection for an old school hot rod look.

The interior was also reimagined and has a modified steel dash from a ’60 Chevy passenger car for the ultimate custom look.

5. Weaver Customs’ Friction ‘50 Ford F1

This truck has a long history as Mack Weaver has owned it since he was 15 and just recently decided to do it up right.

Like many other Weaver rides, this truck is diesel-powered with a Cummins 4BT engine that has a compound-turbo setup and an intercooler mounted in the bed.

Holding down the power is a custom chassis with a rear four-link suspension and Ridetech adjustable coil-overs. Stirring things up, the cab was then chopped, and the doors were made to open in suicide fashion. The rest of the body was then restyled to match the high-performance theme and a set of one-off three-piece wheels were custom cut. Rounding things out is a leather upholstered interior by JS Custom Interiors. This is not the first Weaver Customs build to catch our attention and we know it will not be the last either.

If you love slammed trucks, take a peek at this '61 Ford F100 Unibody pickup.

Chevy engines are everywhere, the ubiquity of the LS is the proof—and that's a good thing. While it could be argued that the custom scene loses some originality from swapping in newer, more powerful engines there's no questioning the myriad of great reasons to do it. Plus, there's so much aftermarket support that there is a wide variety of configurations a builder can dream up to make their version of a Chevy engine stand out from the hordes of the drop-in crate engine look. Here are a few great examples of how to do a Chevy engine swap right.

1. "Over Lord" '67 Chevelle: LSX

This Chevelle was saved from the ravages of rust, lowered and modified with custom ground effects, cowl hood, custom front bumper and splitter.

Traditionally powered by a small block Chevy (SBC), it was upgraded to an LSX416 with a D1X Procharger Supercharger. A potent package positioned in a super clean engine compartment.

2. "Anvil" '64 Pontiac Acadian: Chevy Big Block

Custom from the grille to the taillights, this car is immaculate. Originally built by General Motors of Canada, it's often mistaken for a Chevy II, but there's no mistaking the engine that's in this car for anything original equipment.

It sports a massive pair of twin 88mm turbos feeding a monster 632ci Chevy big block that produces as much as 2500hp. Without checking factory specs, it's safe to say that's a few ponies over stock.

3. '60 Corvette: LS3

This beautiful restomod perfectly blends the old with new in a classy fashion that maintains a vintage vibe.

A glance under the hood reveals not the latest in '60s engine technology, but a color-matched LS3 with a Top Performance intake, pulley system and oil pan nestled within the sanitary engine compartment.

4. '88 Porsche 944: LS3

This one caught us off guard, as this Chevy swap into an '80s Porsche 944 is so understated it doesn't draw much attention until the eight throttle bodies are noticed just above the valve covers.

Perfectly positioned between this wide-bodied German wheel spinner's front fenders is an LS3 6.2L with a gorgeous Harrop Hurricane intake for higher-revving fun.

5. "Il Capo" '36 Packard Rat Rod: Blown LSX

What was once the shell of a stately 1936 Packard was transformed into this original take on a rat rod. It looks like the front fenders were flipped and fit over the rear wheels and several feet were removed from the rear passenger compartment of the original body. Showing off it's the real steel deal in a bare metal finish.

Commanding attention in front of the passenger cabin is an LSX 376ci with a large Blower Shop 8:71 blower towering over valve covers that resemble those found on a HEMI. Looks like a fun car to drive, just not in the rain.

See 5 of SEMA 2019's wildest custom lowered trucks by clicking here.

The high performance tires you take to the track are substantially different from standard street tires in any number of ways, providing exceptional performance that goes above and beyond what is required for daily driving. It's only natural, then, that the unique rubber compounds that gives these tires their super powers also require above-average levels of care and maintenance.

That being said, taking proper care of track tires is a bit of a dark art, with some weekend racers or autocross enthusiasts not aware that they need to be treated differently than what you'd get off the rack at your local shop. This is especially true when it comes to longer-term storage, particularly in cold weather climates, due to the unique chemistry involved in the production of these tires.

Compounding The Problem

What makes race-ready tries that much different than typical high-end summer or basic all season tires? It all comes down to the specific properties of the rubber that they use, which are intended to operate within a much higher temperature range than a more pedestrian compound can withstand.

Track tires have it rough. Not only do they have to offer outstanding grip, but they also have to withstand the extreme heat that's generated during high speed cornering and braking. As a result the compounds that are used in their tread blocks (or the surface facing the asphalt, on a slick tire) are designed specifically to stay as soft as possible through a certain number of heat cycles.

A heat cycle refers to the tire reaching its maximum operating temperature and then cooling down again. When done to a brand new tire in a controlled environment, this allows for the rubber bonds to break and reattach with greater strength, but over time and in competition, consistent high temperatures and multiple heat cycles will eventually harden a compound to the point where it is no longer soft enough to provide effective levels of grip.

Hot Topic

It might not surprise you to learn that heat-sensitive rubber is also vulnerable to the lower extremes of the temperature scale. Those same soft compounds that stick at higher temps have a tendency to become brittle once the mercury starts to drop, and the closer they approach the freezing mark, the greater the chance they will stiffen to the point where cracks can start to appear on the face of the tire.

Generally, rolling on a track tire at very low temperatures is a bad idea as the extra load only increases the stresses associated with a hardening compound. Even simply storing a tire at temperatures below freezing, however, can cause irreparable damage by reducing its ability to flex again once thawed.

Fortunately, tire manufacturers are good about letting you know how to properly care for specific types of rubber. Nitto, for example, publishes a guide for several of its models (NT555R, NT01, NT05) that details what temperatures are safe (above 15 F) for storage, mounting, and dismounting.

Protect That Rubber

What other concerns should you address when storing competition tires? In general, it's better to remove them from a vehicle and not have them supporting a static load for months at a time, as that can sometimes lead to flat-spotting. Some manufacturers also recommend dropping pressures by half during extended storage periods.

In addition, all rubber is vulnerable to UV light and ozone. The former can be dealt with by ensuring that tires are not stored outdoors where they'll be exposed to sunlight, which can break down a rubber compound over time and lead to 'dry rot,' or cracking.

The latter requires storage in an air-tight plastic bag, as ozone (or O3) will break up rubber molecules over time. You might not realize it, but there are parts of your basement or garage where ozone can concentrate, such as around furnaces, electric sump pumps, or any other electric switches or motors. A standard tire tote bag isn't airtight and won't protect against ozone, so the plastic is a must if you're dealing with any of the above apparatus in the vicinity of your rubber.

Maximize Your Fun

In truth, most of the above reads like common sense. If you can avoid exposing your tires to extreme temperatures, long periods of sitting under the entire weight of your car, and away from harsh sunlight and heavy ozone, you won't have much issue getting maximum life and performance out of your high performance rubber.

Want to get deeper into tire and wheel care? This guide will get you started.

So you’ve spotted some surface rust on the frame of your daily driver. Although it’s more of an eye sore than an emergency for the time being, if the Fe2O3 gremlins are given enough time to work their black magic, the disease will spread. And when they do, they will become harder and harder to eradicate. If you live in the Midwest or the Northeast, your car, truck or SUV is perpetually exposed to a plethora of elements that allow oxidation to rapidly set in. Whether it’s the hot, sticky summer air or the salt-treated roads of winter, the underbelly of your pride and joy is either moist or exposed to a corrosive chemical nearly every time it pulls out of the driveway.

Don’t let rust send your car to an early grave. Fight back by following these rust-spotting, treatment and prevention tips and your daily’s underbody will laugh in the face of salt spreaders and 90-percent humidity. The advice and steps taken below have helped us keep what was initially a basket case of a vehicle on the road for more than a decade.

The Real Enemy: Neglect

This is what can happen if you live in the Midwest, drive your truck year-round and wait 12 years to look under the body: rust from front to back, a badly corroded hitch and dilapidating leaf spring shackles. Believe it or not, this photo was taken back in 2009 and the truck is still alive and kicking. In fact, it’s in great shape. The secret to saving it was no secret at all. In fact, after one full weekend of hard work the frame was on the road to recovery. Following that first hit, subsequent instances of rust-busting consist of 10-minute, annual touch-ups.

When and Where to Fight Rust

When you set aside time to tackle your rust gremlins, and if it’s possible, do it when outdoor temperatures (or the inside temp in your well-ventilated garage) are above 50 degrees and humidity is below 65-percent. This ensures proper adherence and drying from most rust converters, primers and paints.

Step 1: Give it Hell

If you’re starting from scratch, as in heavy surface rust, go all-out in stripping the frame down as close as you can get it to bare metal. For us, this meant the use of an electric grinder equipped with a wire wheel, a variety pack of wire brushes, various grades of sand paper, a 5-in-1 scraper and a 10-hour day dedicated to cleaning up the frame.

Other Battle Equipment

Long sleeves, gloves and eye wear are all good ideas with air born adhesive and pieces of rusted metal filling the air. And depending on which chemicals you’re using you may even want to invest in (or borrow) a respirator or mask. The chemical makeup of most rust inhibitors and reformers work wonders on iron but can be quite harsh if inhaled.

Prepped for Treatment

When you’re finished grinding, scrubbing and sanding, don’t forget to wash the surface as well. In our case, we hit the frame, axles and suspension with compressed air first and then fired up the pressure washer. You’ll have to allow time for the underbody to dry before you start applying any rust-fighting product, but you can speed up the process by placing a few fans around the vehicle. Then it’s time to wrap all the components you don’t want painted or seeing any overspray such as the transmission, transfer case, exhaust system, diff covers, shocks, etc. We happened to have masking paper on hand, but aluminum foil and old newspapers work great for this, too.

Annual Touch-Ups

Don’t worry, going to war with your frame won’t be a regular occurrence if you do a thorough job the first time out. In fact, if you maintain a regular rust-check schedule this is likely the worst you’ll have to contend with. When we inspect the frame on our F-350 every fall, this is the extent of the damage we find (again, thanks to that first, thorough treatment). After our first semi-complete (“semi” meaning the cab and bed were never pulled) stripping of the frame, rust treatment and paint, 95-percent of all rust has been contained. Now, having a few spots that require touch-up like this is a far cry from what we saw when we first laid eyes on the truck.

Off-the-Shelf Rust Reformer in a Jug

This is how we were first introduced to Rust-Oleum’s Rust Reformer: its 8-ounce jugs. You can add the fluid to a pressure pot, Hudson sprayer, repurposed tire shine bottle or even administer it via paint brush. We’ve used all four means of applying this formula over the years and it’s never let us down. The best part is that you can literally pick this stuff up anywhere (Walmart, Harbor Freight, Home Depot, Tractor Supply) and it’s one of the cheapest rust reformers on the market. As a bonus, its vapors aren’t as harsh to be around as that of SEM’s Rust-Mort or POR 15's rust preventative. Those are products we really like, and they perform just as well as Rust-Oleum’s stuff (if not better), but they definitely sting the nostrils.

Off-the-Shelf Rust Reformer in a Spray Can

For a much more convenient way to apply Rust Reformer, Rust-Oleum released the 10.25-ounce spray can version of Rust Reformer a few years ago. Simply shake, remove the cap and let it rip. And not only that, thanks to Rust-Oleum’s unique spray technology you can spray at any angle, even upside down. This makes coating areas that were once impossible to reach possible. After 24 hours, the Rust Reformer can be hit with a top coat or left completely alone. According to Rust-Oleum, painting over its Rust Reformer isn’t necessary provided you’ve treated the surface to two rounds of it.

Top Coat

As far as touch-up is concerned, flat black or matte black is usually a better way to go if you want to avoid having random spots of glossy finish along your frame, axles or underbody. For our annual corrosion inspection, we paint over our Rust Reformer work with Rust-Oleum’s low-profile, Matte Finish. Like the aforementioned Rust Reformer, Rust-Oleum’s spray can Matte Finish will work flawlessly regardless of the can’s angle.

Applying Rust Reformer

With the prep work of scraping, sanding, grinding and taping off out of the way, it’s time to apply your rust reformer. When spraying, it’s important to maintain a foot to 16 inches worth of distance between the spray tip and surface. Steady, back and forth strokes with some overlapping is ideal. If you’re like us and opt for Rust-Oleum’s products, as was previously mentioned the company’s Rust Reformer can save you the extra step of having to cover the reformer with paint—so long as you’re OK with flat black. Its Rust Reformer naturally converts all rust into a paintable, black surface.

Body Rust: A Whole Other Animal

Obviously, some jobs call for more than what a simple surface rust job or touch-up can accomplish, and rusting body panels are a whole other animal. Here, there was no other choice than to enlist the help of a body shop (or in our case, a former auto body man that still enjoys practicing the trade on the side). In this particular case, the bottom of the driver side front fender—an area known to hold road salt and moisture back behind the inner fender liner—had corroded from the inside out. By the time the first hints of rust began to poke through the clear coat it was way too late.

This isn’t the first time we’ve declared war on rust. Click here for more prevention tips and an in-depth look at three of the most popular rust-fighting products on the market.

During the last 20+ years of the American auto industry, no engine has made the kind of impact that GM's LS series small block V8s have. We all know the aftermarket and swap potential of these engines have no limits, and during its production run GM used variants the LS engine in all sorts of vehicles.

Starting with the C5 Corvette in 1997, LS motors found their way under the hood of everything from muscle cars and Australian imports to AWD SUVs. The most unusual application of the LS V8 though may have been in a trio of vehicles GM sold in the mid 2000s. This is the story of the time the LS V8 went front wheel drive, resulting in some of the most unique American performance cars of the decade.

Of course GM's history with front wheel drive V8s goes back well before the LS4. Back to to the Oldsmobile Toronado and Cadillac Eldorado of the 1960s and on through the Northstar V8s of the early '90s, but there's something especially interesting about seeing the traditional OHV small block being used in FWD applications.

Dubbed the LS4, the front-drive version of the LS V8 displaced 5.3 liters, but unlike the 5.3 liter V8 used in GM trucks it featured an aluminum block along with cylinder heads shared with the LS6. It made 303 horsepower and 323 pound feet of torque. Just for comparison's sake, the current king of FWD power rankings, the Honda Civic Type R makes 306 horsepower and 295 pound feet of torque from its turbocharged four cylinder.

In order to get the small block to work with in a transverse, front-drive setup the LS4 used a shorter crankshaft and the starter motor was moved from its traditional location. The LS4 came mated exclusively to a four-speed automatic transmission and featured displacement on demand for improved fuel economy.

Over the course of its run the LS4 was offered in four different GM vehicles, and perhaps the most well known of the group was the 2006-2009 Chevy Impala SS. Not be confused with Caprice-based Impala SS of the 1990s, the 2006 version was basically a rental car with a V8 under the hood—and that actually makes it pretty cool.

While it may not have been a true sports sedan that would scare off BMWs, the FWD V8 Impala SS was powerful cruiser capable of hitting 60 miles per hour in the mid-five second range and running a low 14-second quarter mile.

Compared to the aggressive, swoopy looks of modern sedans the mid 2000s Impala SS looks pretty plain, but in a way that actually goes in its favor as few will suspect it has an LS V8 under the hood.

In addition to the Impala SS sedan, the LS4 could also be had in the two-door Monte Carlo SS. At the time the Camaro was on hiatus from Chevy's lineup, so for Chevy loyalists a V8 Monte Carlo SS was about as close as they could get.

They may have been front-drive mainstream cars, but the option of V8 also helped bit a little stronger connection between the road-going Monte Carlo and Impala and their NASCAR counterparts of the era, even if the race cars were just decorated body shells over a tube chassis.

However the most enthusiast-oriented of the LS4 cars came from Pontiac, who dropped into the small block into its Grand Prix sedan for the rare GXP model. What made the Grand Prix GXP stand apart wasn't just its horsepower, but also the lengths its engineers went to improve the car's dynamics.

The biggest obstacles when having a 5.3 liter V8 driving the front wheels are both torque steer and understeer, and the GXP's engineers applied to some unique tricks to help mitigate this. The big trick was going to a "reverse' staggered wheel and tire setup with 255-width tires up front and 225-width tires in the rear. While the tweaks didn't quite turn the Grand GXP into a world-beating sports sedan, it was a surprisingly well-rounded machine for being a front-drive, V8-powered anomaly. It even included Bilstein suspension for further-improved handling.

Last but not least, the LS4 was also offered in the luxury-oriented Buick LaCrosse Super for the 2008 and 2009 model years, and with the V8 under the hood the LaCrosse Super was one of the quickest Buicks since the Grand National of the 1980s.

While all of these V8-powered sports sedans and coupes never sold in larger numbers, they certainly provided a unique sort of motoring experience and if you can find one for sale today they should be pretty cheap. Nobody will suggest that a FWD machine is the ideal application for a small block V8, but if you are looking for a quick, comfortable and unique daily driver there's a lot to like here.

Whether you consider them underrated enthusiast machines or just interesting footnotes of modern automotive history, it's likely the the fall-off of sedan sales and the move to small displacement turbo engines have guaranteed the FWD V8 sedan experiment won't be repeated again.

Speaking of unusual LS-powered oddities? Have you forgotten about the Saab 9-7X Aero? We almost did. 

As the big brown truck continues to deliver box after box of go-fast goodies for Project Paw-Paw, thoughts of running down Camaros and wearing out newer trucks are unshakable. However, before we get carried away with our quest to build the ultimate sleeper, it’s time to be proactive. Structurally, the 7.3L is a pretty solid platform, but it does have its shortcomings—namely within the valvetrain. In order for the 216,000-mile engine to survive the added power it’s about to see, these weak links have to be addressed. For a bone-stock 7.3L, that means installing stiffer valve springs before a valve kisses a piston and replacing the flimsy factory pushrods with chromoly aftermarket units.

We’re also ditching the factory head bolts in favor of head studs this time to rule out any chance of popping a head gasket. While they may seem a bit mundane, the hard-part upgrades described in this installment pave the way for any 7.3L to cope with higher rpm, three times the power and triple the boost it made in stock form. The best part is that this is as far as we’ll have to go into the engine to prep it for 600rwhp. The only other modification that will take place beneath the valve covers will be when the hybrid injectors go in. Stay tuned for that next time, along with a quick tutorial on the types of modifications that can be made to improve the 7.3L injector.

Weak Factory Valve Springs

Upgrading valve springs with the heads on the block and the engine still in the truck is a tedious process. For one, you have to take the proper precautions so you don’t allow the valves to drop into the cylinder. For another, a telescopic magnet is vital in ensuring you don’t lose any of the keepers, not to mention that gaining access to (and working on) the rearmost springs can be a bit nerve-racking, as well as cramped. The process requires patience, a steady hand and several hours of your time. In the end however, it’s worth it, as a factory 7.3L valve spring only has a closed seat pressure of 79-lbs on its best day—and the 216,000-mile versions in our engine are anything but brand new.

Calling on Comp Cams

For over a decade, Comp Cams’ 910 single outer valve springs have been a go-to upgrade for 7.3L owners. Originally intended for big-block GM’s, they’re readily available, direct replacement valve springs that are cheap and have been proven to work well in mild to significantly-modified engines. At the correct installed height, the Comp Cams springs can provide significantly higher seat pressure than the stockers, which is optimal for guarding against valve float (high rpm) and valve creep (intake and exhaust valves opening early due to elevated boost or drive pressure).

Valve Springs Price: $84 - $90

Adding Even More Seat Pressure

While a direct swap of the Comp Cams 910 valve springs would’ve been better than doing nothing, in higher horsepower applications a higher closed seat pressure is required. To increase the closed seat pressure, the installed height of the spring itself has to be reduced. To lower the installed height, 0.030-inch thick shims were installed. Manufactured specifically for its valve springs, Comp Cams’ hardened-steel shims are a perfect fit around the 7.3L’s valve guides. For the sake of having options and because shims are inexpensive, we suggest buying Comp Cams’ variety pack (we did), which entails 0.015-inch, 0.030-inch and 0.060-inch shims all in one bag (PN 4754). As mentioned, we settled on the 0.030-inch shims, which bring our closed seat pressure to approximately 113-lbs (vs. 70 to 79-lbs stock).

Valve Spring Shim Kit Price: $21

Finding TDC

To install the valve springs in cylinder heads that are still bolted to the engine, you have to perform the work one cylinder at a time, which requires each cylinder you’re working on to be brought to top dead center. You’ll need a helping hand to manually turn the engine over while you check for TDC using the feeler tool of your choice. In our case it was a plastic probe, inserted into the glow plug bore. We’ll note that some installers are more comfortable with the injectors removed and out of the way. And we’ll also throw in the fact that now is an opportune time to swap in a set of fresh glow plugs.

Requisite Tool

The entire valve spring job revolves around the acquisition of a valve spring compressor tool. They can be had for roughly $50 to $60 or even borrowed from a fellow gearhead. With the rocker arms and pushrods out of the way, the compressor is first employed to press the valve spring retainer down enough to remove the keepers via telescopic magnet (make sure you take note of their original position). After that, the compressor tool and stock spring can come out, you can remove the valve seal, set the shim in place and install the compressor on a Comp Cams 910 spring for installation. Then the old valve seal goes back in, the new valve spring goes on and the keepers and retainers are reinstalled.

Weak Factory Pushrods

Though not quite as critical of an area to upgrade on a 7.3L, the factory push rods can (and often do) experience deflection when subjected to added power. Granted, an over-torqued rocker arm or a failing lifter are the most common reasons for bending one, but big power doesn’t do them any favors. Plus, when you’re already under the valve covers sweating out a valve spring swap, it’s the perfect chance to rule out another weak link. Above, one of our stock pushrods (left) is side by side with its replacement from Hamilton Cams (right).

Heavy-Duty, Direct Replacements

Hamilton Cams’ heavy duty 7.3L pushrods won’t deflect or bend under load thanks to their 4130 chromoly steel construction and 0.095-inch wall thickness. The outside diameter of the tube is 3/8-inch so there are no clearance issues associated with them (namely passing through the head gasket) and they’re also the same length as stock. Hamilton’s heavy duty pushrods are topped off with pressed-in, hardened 8620 steel ball ends. Another popular and proven pushrod option in the 7.3L world comes from Smith Brothers Pushrods, a company that offers a Stage 1 and a Stage 2 version.

Pushrods Price: $225 - $300

ARP Head Studs

Another area of concern that’s geared more toward peace of mind than anything else is the addition of head studs. While the 7.3L’s six bolts per cylinder head design can hold up to pretty serious boost, any time you’re venturing beyond 40-psi of boost (we’ll end up around 50 psi) added clamping force on the head gaskets is a good idea. Along with the valve spring and especially the pushrod upgrades we’re performing this time, there is no cheaper insurance policy than the addition of ARP head studs (PN 250-4201). Higher tensile strength and deeper thread engagement in the block are the key advantages of head studs over traditional head bolts.

Head Studs Price: $579 - $620

Swapping Them in, One at a Time

Though we’ll admit that pulling the cylinder heads completely, having the heads resurfaced, the block’s deck surface inspected and new head gaskets installed (i.e. doing it the “right way”) is ideal, swapping head studs in one at a time and retaining the original 200,000-mile head gaskets has been done successfully on high-powered 7.3L’s for years. Installing them one at a time saves you downtime, labor and (of course) money. Full disclosure: to get the rearmost (firewall) studs in, we had to loosen the motor mounts and tilt the engine using a jack and a block of wood.

Different Stud Lengths

It’s worth mentioning that, of the 36 head studs ARP supplies (18 per bank), eight fasteners measure roughly ¼-inch shorter than the length of the other 28. This is because the top four studs on each bank need to be shorter in order to clear the rocker arms. Don’t do any grinding or cutting!

Torquing the Head Studs

The 12-point nuts that come with ARP’s 12mm diameter head studs call for a 14mm socket and a final torque spec of 125 ft-lbs. For a little added insurance, we snugged ours up to 135 ft-lbs. We’ve seen ARP head studs keep head gaskets alive in a 7.3L making as much as 75 psi of boost. And that was on stock head gaskets and non-O-ringed (or non-fire-ringed) heads. Just an FYI, if you ever plan to reuse your head studs (you know, in case you blow your stock bottom end to smithereens…) stick with the 125 ft-lb spec. Clear as mud?

Now the Fun Begins

Stay tuned, because we did one more thing while the valve covers were off. Hint: it included four pairs of giant syringes—the first major step in taking Paw-Paw from 159rwhp to nearly 600rwhp.

Did jumping right in to Part 2 give you a false start? Get the lowdown on all of our plans for Project Paw-Paw, our 7.3L Power Stroke sleeper build, right here.

We all know what it's like to fall down an internet blackhole of articles, photos, videos and more—and for me these endless journeys always have something to do with cars. The other night I was browsing around the net for some information on the Ford Mustang Cobra R of the mid 1990s when I came across a YouTube link to a complete race from an old Speedvision Cup race series at Road Atlanta.

Intrigued by the thumbnail, I ended up sitting at my desk for an hour and half, watching and basking in the glory of some the most interesting grassroots road racing ever to happen in America. All with one of the most diverse grids of cars I've ever seen all racing wheel to wheel around one of the country's most famous race tracks.

This particular race was from the 1997 Speedvision Cup, a multi-class sports and touring car race series that was sponsored by and aired on the Speedvision cable network during the mid to late 1990s. I quickly found that for car lover who came of age in the '90s or just has an affinity for the cars of that era, this is some must-see viewing.

While I have clear memories of watching this sort of racing on TV as a young teenager, there isn't a whole lot of info out there on the Speedvision Cup today. A bit of searching shows that the series grew out of IMSA's Showroom Stock division and t lasted until 1998. Fortunately for those who want to relive things, a few of the complete races have been uploaded to YouTube in their full, low resolution glory.

As for this particular race, it was a timed three-hour event and featured a massive grid of cars spanning many different brands and bodystyles, and unlike most sports car series which consist of high dollar and heavily modified machinery, the cars of the Speedvision Cup have a very "weekend warrior" feel.

What you won't find on the track during this race are serious sports cars like Corvettes, Vipers and Porsche 911s. What you will see is just about everything else, with the most powerful cars still being lightly modified Pontiac Firebird Formulas, Toyota Supras, Mazda RX-7s, BMW M3s and the aforementioned Mustang Cobra Rs.

And while those more traditional entries make up the fastest Grand Sport Class, the roster gets even more interesting and diverse as you move into the less powerful classes. I wasn't able to find a complete entry list for the race, but watching the broadcast it's almost easier to count the cars you don't see on the track.

Always one to look for the oddities in motorsport, I was overwhelmed trying to spot all the different types of cars competing in the Speedvision Cup. Yes there are race track stalwarts like the NA Mazda Miata and the BMW 3 Series, but also obscure machines like the Oldsmobile Achieva, Chevy Beretta, Mazda MX-6 and Dodge Neon.

Just among the Hondas I spotted both fourth and fifth generation Preludes, a Del Sol and even an Accord. The Nissan roster meanwhile includes the Z32 300ZX Twin Turbo, S14 240SX, 200SX and Sentra SE-R. Not surprisingly, some of the clips from the race look like a replay from Gran Turismo 2.

Of course there's also plenty of for the European car enthusiast to look for as well, including numerous E36s, a brand new at the time Z3 Roadster, a MkIII Volkswagen Golf, several Audis and more.

As for the racing itself, it's great fun to watch thanks not just the variety of cars but also because of how relatively stock they are, with strict rules limiting their modifications, power and grip. 

It isn't quite the super sideways narrow tire racing of the '60s and '70s racing, but the cars definitley look more lively than the high grip, aero-laden machines of today.

At one point in the race there's an especially great battle between an Firebird Formula and an FD3S RX-7 in the Grand Sports class, and it's cool to see the big V8 Pontiac and the nimble rotary Mazda fight it out using totally different styles.

Later on in the race, a rain storm moves in making for even more chaos in what was already a full contact competition. Several cars are claimed by the wet conditions and the higher powered cars struggle to use their performance advantage on the small radial tires of the day.

I could go on and on about just how enjoyable this was to watch, and will probably have trouble getting work done in the coming days as I can continue to watch these old races. That's just how great this stuff is.

Whether you are the kind of person who likes race cars that are very similar to road cars or just want to check out some of the greatest cars of the '90s doing their thing on the race track, you're going to love this.

The history and influence of Speedvision itself is another topic worthy of a story on it's own, and you can look for that in the coming weeks - but in the meantime, grab a drink, hit play and take a nice trip back to into the car culture of the '90s and the Speedvision Cup.

For another video nostalgia trip, check out our story on the JDM goodness that was Best Motoring.

Having a wheel come off your vehicle while driving at speed is one of the most terrifying things that can happen to you as a driver, whether you're barreling down the back straight of your local race track or navigating three lanes of rush hour traffic on the way home later that evening.

How do I know? Because I've been there, having watched a wheel on a pickup truck driven by my father shear off the hub and travel across the highway and into the median while he was in the process of towing his race car. The truck and trailer survived, thanks to the judicious application of driving skill, but it was a scary moment that was completely preventable.

The vast majority of cases where a wheel separates from the hub can be traced back to one simple thing: lug nut torque. The rims on my father's truck had recently been swapped and the shop in question hadn't bothered to check that the correct tightness had been applied at each corner.

It might seem like a simple thing to make sure that your lug nuts are properly tightened before you get behind the wheel, but this simple act of maintenance is so often overlooked, or improperly done that we felt it warranted a refresh on the right way to torque lug nuts—and the consequences associated with letting things slide.

How Do Lug Nuts Work?

Lug nuts are designed to 'stretch' a certain amount when torqued to their factory-specified level. This stretch allows the nuts to make a strong mechanical connection to the threads on the lug. If undertorqued, this connection isn't made, the bolt doesn't stretch, and the connection is 'loose,' allowing for vibration and movement on the lug. If it's overtorqued, the bolt stretches to the point where its tensile properties are weakened, which makes it more likely to shear, crack, or otherwise separate itself violently from the lug.

If lug nuts are undertorqued, the nut can continue to loosen itself through the vibrations associated with driving, which in turn will unseat the wheel from the hub and create additional vibrations as it spins erratically. This can put pressure on the lugs themselves that they were never designed to handle, leading to eventual failure, if the nuts haven't slid off first and the rim hasn't separated from the hub completely.

Overtorquing can have similar effects. Stretched lugs (also known as studs) and nuts can lead to warped brakes as loads are distributed unevenly across the hardware. The previously-mentioned cracking and shearing can also separate both the nut and the stud from the hub, and potentially lead to catastrophic wheel loss.

Do It Right The First (And Second) Time

How can you ensure that your lug nuts are properly torqued? It's fairly simple, and it relies on repeatable procedures that you should use every time you swap rims or hit the track

The first step is to make sure that the threads on your wheel studs are as clean as possible. Any dirt, grim, or metal chips sitting on the threads can interfere with accurate torquing. You also don't want to lubricate the threads, or use any type of rust-proofing, as this will also prevent a proper mechanical connection between the lug nut and the threads.

Next, use the right tools. Power impact wrenches and torque sticks are great for removing lug nuts, but you don't want to use them to put them back on again because there's simply no way to fine tune the amount of torque they're applying. Attach each lug nut by hand, and then use a manual torque wrench to tighten until you hear the 'click' sound that indicates you've reached the right amount of torque. The number—usually in the 75-100 lb-ft range—should be easy to locate in your vehicle's owner's manual.

The pattern in which you tighten the lugs also makes a difference. The most common sequence is to move in a 'star' pattern on a 5-lug setup—start with a top-corner lug, and then move diagonally across until each lug has been tightened. On 4-lug wheels, move diagonally for the first bolt, then across, then diagonally again. For 6-lug wheels, you'll want to start horizontally with the bolt that's directly across, then move diagonally, then horizontally again, horizontally a second time, then a final diagonal. Using these patterns properly seats the rim against the hub while you apply torque and allows for the most accurate application of tightening force.

Re-Torque And Drive Safe

You might be surprised to learn that torquing new wheels once isn't enough. Most manufacturers recommend that lugs be re-torqued after 50 to 100 miles of regular driving. This is due to any settling that might have occurred between the rim and the hub, as well as any initial vibration that might have loosened any lug nuts.

For a track vehicle, where stresses are significant each session, it's not overkill to check lug nut torque after every session. The same can be said for vehicle that are used for towing, as the excess pressures exerted by the load that is being hauled can amplify any looseness or other lug nut and wheel issues. It's worth checking torque again once you've reached your destination.

It takes only a few minutes per wheel to ensure proper torque—minutes that can add up to serious dollars saved by avoiding an incident that could see you losing complete control of your vehicle. Invest $50 in a torque wrench and make it a regular habit to check your rims before you leave pit lane.

Curious to know more about wheels and tires? This guide to fitting the right set to your vehicle will point you in the right direction.