The sport compact performance movement owes a debt of gratitude to the 1990s. It’s the decade where the genre experienced its most significant growth spurt and, for better or worse, spawned all sorts of trends you wished you’d never been guilty of. Fortunately, not all trends last.

1. COIL CHOPPING

Adjustable coilovers were still a thing of the future but you were determined to dump your Civic more than what those yellow Neuspeed Race springs said you could. Lopping off a coil or two with your dad’s miter saw made quick work of all of this and also destroyed an otherwise perfectly well-handling car and your dad’s saw in the process. (Hey, wait a minute, I did this. - JW)

2. THE SIX-INCH TIP

An exhaust outlet any bigger than whatever size piping spanned underneath your Integra made no difference to your engine so long as it wasn’t any smaller. But that didn’t stop you from getting your hands on the biggest rolled-chrome-tipped hunk of steel you could find and having it booger-welded onto your Ultra-Flo muffler.

3. THE RACING STRIPE

You didn’t race, and that included every time you mashed the pedal on your naturally aspirated Eclipse, unbeknownst to the guy next to you in the Camaro. But none of that kept you from advertising to the rest of the world whatever boy-racer fantasies you kept pent up inside of you in the form of three-inch-wide vinyl spanning from the muffler to front grille.

4. THE CHICKEN-WIRE GRILLE

Speaking of grilles. You weren’t about to stuff anything billet and chrome in between your Accord’s headlights, which led to the next most logical thing to do: Visit Home Depot, lay down two bucks for a sheet of chicken wire (or stucco lathe), lop it up and Bondo it to the innards of that front bumper opening. As it turns out, chicken wire grilles looked exactly as good as you think they would.

5. TAILLIGHT SILHOUETTES

As far as you were concerned, Honda’s, Acura’s, Toyota’s, Mitsubishi’s, Nissan’s and Mazda’s designers and engineers simply couldn’t get that whole taillight thing down right and, as it turned out, you could do a whole lot better. All it took was some leftover vinyl from that racing stripe, a razor blade and a loon like you with too much time on his hands.

6. APC

Once trinket-makers like APC came onto the scene, the taillight silhouette guy was out of work. Suddenly, these awful-looking abominations of amber and clear plastic reminiscent of office building fluorescent light covers could be yours for a whole lot less work.

7. MADE IN CHINA

Modifying a Honda, for example, in the 1990s in a serious sort of way required serious money. But you didn’t have serious money. Most anything that worked or looked decent came by way of Japan, which meant all of this cost a whole lot more than a homemade racing stripe. And then came China, who teamed up with American entrepreneurs who began cranking out poor-fitting, untested parts, hawking them off to the masses.

8. PLEATHER

You couldn’t take in a two-toned, choose your own color scheme, fake-leather interior in the 1990s and not feel good inside. It was like seeing a rainbow. The key here was to lather everything in it, though, and if it couldn’t be draped in it, a can of Krylon would be called upon.

9. AMERICAN PARTS MAKERS TRYING NOT TO BE AMERICAN

American aftermarket parts makers thought 1990s’ sport compact enthusiasts wouldn’t be interested in parts offered by the same guys who pushed double-pumper carbs and points ignitions and they were right. What they were wrong about, though, was trying to sub-brand themselves using Japanese-sounding names and tag-lines that, as it turned out, either sounded A.) borderline racist or B.) weren’t Japanese at all.

10. SUPRA HEADLIGHTS WITHOUT THE SUPRA

Almost every sport compact enthusiast of the 1990s wanted Toyota’s prized Supra. The aftermarket wing industry was evidence of as much. What those enthusiasts could afford, though, were the Supra’s headlights (or its taillights), and a few bucks left over to pay some body shop schmuck to shoddily graft them onto the front of their CRX and look precisely as good as you think they did.

11. DOUBLE-DECKER WINGS

All of a sudden those Supra wings weren’t big enough, which led to the next most logical thing: a Supra wing on top of a Supra wing. Double-decker spoilers epitomized everything that went wrong with the sport compact segment all rolled up into one big hunk of poorly fitting fiberglass that, a lot of times, wasn’t so much as double-sided taped onto the trunk lid.

12. TACHS ON TACHS

It didn’t matter that your Civic’s tachometer worked just fine and that you had no trouble being able to see it, but you went ahead and plopped a five-inch monster tach with its requisite shift lift front and center onto your dashboard anyways. Set to light up in your face at 3,500 rpm. (This, too. - JW)

13. THE UNI-WIPER

You had no idea why you had to ditch one of your perfectly good windshield wipers (it was popular among European touring cars of its day, you know). All you knew was that it had to be done in order to complement that boy-racer theme you’d worked so hard to establish. (And this... - JW)

14. COMBAT BODY KITS

By the time the late-1990s happened, no factory body panel was safe. Bumpers, side skirts, fenders and hoods were tossed in favor of the Black Widow, the Commando or the Enforcer, all of which looked and fit every bit as bad as they sounded.

15. HEADER, EXHAUST, BUT NO INTAKE

Japanese parts had been a staple of well-built sport compact cars long before the now wholly abused term “JDM” was established, which ushered in an era of copying the Japanese for the sake of copying the Japanese, for better or worse. Worse, as in performing an engine swap, bolting on a better-flowing header and exhaust system, and then restricting it all with your old factory air box because you saw a guy in Option magazine do it. (I still rock a stock intake box in my Civic! - JW)

Annually, Relaxed Atmosphere's Southern California chapter organizes a show called Relaxing in SoCal. The event combines classic trucks and cars to modern works of rolling art. Occasionally, a classic JDM vehicle sneaks in.

During the '80s, the mini-truck scene was huge, and Mazda B2000s, Toyota Crew Cabs and Nissan Hardbodies ran the scene. Elaborate audio systems filled the back walls and beds of these trucks. We acknowledged them as, crawl-throughs and walk-throughs. The objective: to have the loudest, lowest and baddest truck in the scene.

Many trucks had flashy paint jobs; some sporting bright colors in an array of hand laid graphics. Soon, the scene mixed in full-sized pickups and dually trucks. As the sport compact scene became more popular, many people opted out of their trucks and modified Hondas instead.

Soon after, sport compact drag racing took over, and trucks started becoming a thing of the past. Truck clubs started to fade and only a few would stand tall. Relaxing Atmosphere started in 1992, and have stood the test of time, with 28 chapters throughout the US and Japan.

Relaxing in SoCal was just that, relaxing. Stroll with us and check out the diversity that RISC brought to the table.

A reader expressed surprised that we were able to overland for several days in a two-door Jeep Wrangler. He asked if we would share what gear we pack and how we manage to fit everything in the small cargo space. A two Wrangler is certainly not the ideal overland vehicle, but that’s what we own and over the years we have figured out how to make it work without compromising comfort or safety. It’s important to be prepared for emergencies anytime you head into the backcountry, but when you are traveling solo without another vehicle, it can mean the difference between life and death.

Most people think of overland camps as luxurious setups with all the comforts of home. We often find that elaborate camps are better suited to base camping. If you are truly overlanding, traveling every day and setting camp in a new location every night, you want to minimize the time and effort spent setting up and breaking down camp. Our camp is very basic, but it has everything we need for a comfortable night after a long day on the trail.

We primitive dry camp in remote desert locations, which means we need to carry firewood if we want a fire, and we need to carry water. We are absolute freaks when it comes to carrying enough water after we had a brush with dehydration while hiking several years ago. The bottom layer of our cooler is all bottled water. We have the full 20 liter Jerry can and a 2 liter hydration bladder rigged up to the driver seat, so we can take a drink without having to stop and dig out the cooler. That’s enough water for hydration, several pots of coffee, cleanup in camp, replenishing the Jeep if it overheats or leaks, and extinguishing campfires. Plus, we have a comfortable margin if we get stuck for an extra day or two.

We also need to carry gas because gas stations are few and far between in the Mojave desert. Our tire carrier has mounts for two traditional Jerry cans, as well as a trail rack over the spare for light gear. A Hi-Lift jack is also mounted on the tire carrier.

Here’s our typical packing list:

• One large folding table. We used to use the little camp tables that fold up small, but they didn’t fit our needs for cooking and working in camp. A large table is more useful, and it goes in the Jeep first on the bottom of the cargo area to provide a heat barrier for the cooler. Most Jeep owners know how hot the floor of the Jeep can get, and using the table as a barrier helps the cooler ice last much longer, especially when it’s hot in the desert.
• One four-person tent that’s tall enough to stand up, and room enough for us and gear without feeling cramped.
• Two cots, two sleeping bags, and two camp pillows. The cots are a recent addition and were the subject of much debate after we had several popped air mattresses. They take up a lot of room in the Jeep and we’re still surprised we managed to figure out how to fit them. They are a splurge, but they also give us more room in our tent because we can stash gear beneath them.
• Tarps and blankets. One tarp is for under the tent, the other for emergency shade or rain shelter. Blankets because cold rises from the ground and on a cold winter night it’s nice to have one underneath your sleeping bag (or a sleeping pad) even with a cot. On exceptionally windy nights we’ve used them as a barrier between the mesh panels and the rain fly on our three-season tent to block the wind and keep the inside of the tent warmer.
• Two backpacks that contain personal clothing and hygiene items, as well as survival gear like flashlights, knives, compasses, bandannas, cordage, lighters, gloves (work and cold weather), binoculars and field guides.
• One 27-gallon Toughbox camp box. It contains a cook set, utensils, a small box with things like hot and cold drink mixes and condiments, a tent repair kit, fire starters/tinder/ lighters, propane bottles, a battery-operated lantern (we switched from propane lanterns so we don’t have to carry as many propane canisters), heavy-duty garbage bags, deck of playing cards, coffee pot/coffee/cups, plastic drinking cups, freeze-dried emergency foods in case we get stranded, duct tape and cordage, Orikaso bowls (awesome because they fold flat) and a few paper plates, a cutting board, a fold-flat toaster, pie irons and some long-handled skewers for cooking over the fire, pancake mix, oatmeal, wet wipes, multi-purpose hand towels, a roll of paper towels, spare batteries for everything, and usually at least one box of wine and a bottle of whiskey. There is a lot more in this box, too much to mention.
• Two camp chairs
• Two-burner propane camp stove
• Catalytic propane tent heater if nights are forecasted to be in the 20’s or below
• Shepherds hook to hold the lantern over the table
• Toolbag
• Portable air compressor
• Adventure Medical Mountain Series expedition grade first aid kit and a Trauma Pack Pro with QuickClot and tourniquet.
• Two camera bags – one large weather/dust proof backpack for bodies and lenses, and a small bag with filters, batteries, cleaning supplies.
• Camera tripod

Smaller items like the first aid kit and pillows go into the small space directly behind the seats. The rest has to be packed in an exact order to fit, starting with the table. The cooler and the camp box go on top of the table, and the two cots, upright on their sides, get squeezed into the space along the wheel well. The rest gets stashed in any available remaining space until we’re packed to the roof. You have to think of it like a puzzle and really pay attention to the shape of items. We have one rule – we need to be able to get at the cooler and my camera bag without unpacking the entire Jeep.

Stored in the small cubby in the cargo area we have an e-tool (folding shovel), a hatchet, a splitting maul, a tire iron, the stock jack, fluids, bungee cords and ratchet straps, a hose and pour spout for the fuel can, and a metal fire ring. Our rear bumper has another small cubby that holds tow straps and heavy duty zip ties so we can get at them without needing to unpack the Jeep.

If we didn’t have a Genesis Off Road dual battery kit under the hood, I would want to carry something that would let me jumpstart a dead battery.

Small items that I need to have close at hand go in the molle pouches on my Smittybilt G.E.A.R. seat covers. We keep things like the winch controller, tire pressure gauges, Staun tire deflators, and a small first aid kit in the pouches. In the passenger area (including center console and glove compartment), we have two GPS units (one is handheld for hiking), a dual-band ham radio (we haven’t figure out where to mount my HF ham radio yet), a CB radio, multi-tools, more matches and lighters, more knives, Two is one and one is none.

There is very little room under the front seats of a JK, but we manage to fit our trail guides and maps under one seat, and an inverter, wet wipes, duct tape and a pack of small trash bags under the other. A fire extinguisher is stored alongside the driver seat. The one thing that we can’t carry as much as I would like is firewood. We can fit almost enough for two nights if we keep our fires small and don’t burn them all night, but sometimes we need a fire in the morning (we’ve had to melt water for coffee several times). The four-hour fire logs work in a pinch, although they don’t generate much heat for warmth. If we’re out for more than two nights, we either need to make a run into the nearest town and hope they have some, or we have to do without a fire. Sometimes we get lucky and find firewood next to a fire ring left by previous campers.

We’re sure we forgot to mention something. This is what it looks like from the front seat. Every available inch of space is utilized. Don’t hit the brakes too hard or something might slam into your head! Just kidding, that’s why important to be careful where you place items and make sure they are secure; you don’t want anything heavy or hard on top where it might hit you in the head. We won’t lie, it’s tight quarters and there’s usually a lot of swearing going on when we pack up, but it works.

If you are a neat freak and need to have things more organized, there are some nice drawer systems made by Tuffy and SmittyBilt that you can get for the cargo area. We decided against a drawer system because it wouldn’t allow us to maximize the way we utilize the space by tucking things into every little nook and cranny, and we wouldn’t be able to carry as much gear.

One option is a roof rack for your Jeep. It’s a great choice if you plan to do milder trails on flat terrain.

We vetoed a roof rack for my Jeep because we often do rougher off camber trails. A lifted 2DR Wrangler already has a high center of gravity and can get tippy in off camber situations. We didn’t want to risk adding more weight to the top of the Jeep and raising the center of gravity even higher.

Another option is an off-road trailer. You can carry a lot more gear with a trailer, and you could even put a rooftop tent on one. There are many trailer options available, from commercially built ones to do-it-yourself.

If you’re considering a trailer for off road use, it’s important to make sure that the suspension and tires are capable of handling the type of trails you plan to travel. You can read more about this killer setup here.

Don’t let a 2DR Wrangler discourage you from overlanding. With a little ingenuity and learning how to reduce your kit down to exactly what you need, you can do it comfortably and be well prepared for any problems you might encounter.

Do you overland in a 2DR Wrangler? Share your packing tips in the comments below!

Do you remember the Trophy Rat we featured a few months ago? Well, the owner took it out for a quick video shoot the other day. It’s really a small glimpse into what this completely unique and functional rig is capable of. We hope to see more video of the truck in action soon, but until then, we’ll just hit repeat! 

Click here for the full Trophy Rat feature.

Window tinting isn’t a modification that’s exclusive only to the hardcore car enthusiast community—it’s everywhere. The blackout-limo shade of tint from the ‘80s is what brought on restrictions of how dark you could go on your windows, and safety tint laws were put into effect, not only so you could see better through your windows at night, but so cops can also see what’s going on inside the vehicle. Crazy as it seems, tint can be a lot more than just an aesthetic change; window tint can benefit you and your passengers’ health.

DUB Magazine may not strike a chord with tinting at first mention, unless you count the endless vehicles they’ve covered over the years having tint. Having health in mind, DUB recently launched a new product that’s not aimed specifically at enthusiasts but more towards the everyday consumer.

DUB IR™ is a new type of Nano ceramic tint that’s designed to block out harmful UV and infrared rays (IR), which is something that not all tints can do, no matter how dark the tint shade is. Driving a vehicle in broad daylight actually exposes you to more UV rays than you think, even if you’re partially shaded. Think of it like leaving the house without sunblock—you won’t be burned as if you would be standing in direct sunlight, but over time it can and will show its effects. DUB IR™ is currently in the process of acquiring the Skin Cancer Foundation’s Seal of Approval, which will only give you more reason to strongly consider this upgrade.

While we can’t force you to apply sunscreen every day, we do highly suggest, at the very least, outfitting your ride with DUB IR™ tint. It’s said to reject over 80% of infrared while blocking out 99% of UV rays. At the same time it also rejects up to 60% of heat, which will keep your interior cabin cooler. DUB IR™ is available in a variety of light and dark shades with 100% clarity to make it a fully legal modification, depending on your state’s laws.

DUB IR™ can’t be purchased by consumers as raw materials but your local installer can order as much or little that’s needed to tint your vehicle from DUB’s dealer network. Remember to check your state law to see what the legal amount of shade can be applied to your vehicle. In some instances, DUB IR can be used in a lighter shade and still perform as described. We recently visited AP Sounds and Customs in Southern California where they removed a generic, darker tint in favor of a lighter DUB IR™ upgrade. 

Your installer should be able to remove old tint easily, and if you’re doing this yourself, it actually is easy. Use a steamer to help get the edges to peel free and throw that cheap stuff in the garbage.

Next you’ll want to remove as many contaminants from the factory glass surface as possible. Even if your car’s never had tint before, this step will be needed to ensure as smooth a mating surface as possible.

AP does have one trick up their sleeve to gain the edge over their competitors, and that’s using a vinyl plotter/cutter and special software to cut the film to a vehicle’s exact measurements, which includes all side windows, rear glass and in some cases, the front windshield (although not legal in every state; again, check your state’s laws).

Old school tint installers relied on their eyes and hands, and unless you are old school, it’s tough to beat the precision of this machine, no matter how good you are.

Next the tint is trimmed out of the master roll sheet—using the plotter not only saves time but materials, which also means, saving money.

Before the DUB IR™ tint is applied to the inner glass, AP’s installers form the tint on the outside, which makes it more spot on to position once it is ready to apply to the inside.

It takes a lot of extra time but you want your tint done right, right? Right.

Once the tint’s been applied, give it a solid once-over to make sure there are no contaminants or air bubbles, and if there are, you can continue to work on it until they’ve been cleared.

Here's the DUB IR™ tint once it's installed—it’s a touch darker than the factory tint (which, by the way, isn’t actual tint, it’s merely colored glass without any protection from UV and IR rays), adheres to proper vehicle code and will do what it’s meant to do: protect the skin you’re in and keep your vehicle cooler; it’ll also protect your interior from sun fade and damage.

For more info on DUB IR™, visit www.dub-ir.com.

BONUS IMAGES

The professional fun haver is back with another Virtual Reality 360°! Get ready to take notes as Vaughn Gittin Jr. walks you through drifting his 2016 Monster Energy Nitto Tire Ford Mustang RTR Drift Car through the Road Atlanta course.

If you missed the first experience, watch Vaughn Gittin Jr. take you through the Streets of Long Beach.

Stay updated on all Formula Drift coverage at DRIVINGLINE.com/DRIFT

(Photo by: Luke Munnell)

The 1999-to-current Ford Super Duty ¾- and 1-ton truck lineup are some of the bestselling fullsize trucks in America. One of the biggest draws of the heavy-duty trucks is the optional Power Stroke diesel engine. From the venerable 7.3L to the problematic 6.0L, with the compound turbo 6.4L in between, and the current high-tech 6.7L, millions of Ford trucks have worn the Power Stroke badge over the last 22 years.

During that time frame, the Super Duty platform was introduced and effectively dominated the towing segment for more than a decade. With a huge percentage of Ford truck owners towing on a regular basis, it’s easy to see why these trucks are so popular with America’s working class. If you’re in the market for a used Power Stroke, we’ll help explain the pros and cons of each generation.

1994.5-1997 F-250 & F-350

Debuting in mid ’94, the early bird 7.3L Power Stroke powered Fords are based on the same basic line of trucks produced for nearly two decades (’80-‘97). They’re known for their reliability, simplicity, ruggedness, and thanks to large sales volumes, vast parts availability. The 7.3L’s direct injection stup combined with its HEUI injection system, definitely makes it one of the more audible diesel engines to ever grace the pickup segment. But, it’s a day-in, day-out reliable workhorse that can last well beyond 400,000 miles if properly maintained. Rust issues due to a lack of factory undercoating protection, sporadic camshaft position sensor failure, and a wear-prone TTB Dana 50 (F-250 4x4 models only) are the only notable cosmetic and mechanical shortcomings associated with these trucks.

Engine: 7.3L Power Stroke V-8 with HEUI injection system

Transmission(s): E4OD 4-speed automatic, ZF-5 5-speed manual

Best Year(s):’97 due to a meatier block (thicker walls in the valley area), F-350 4x4 model to get the solid front axle (Dana 60)

Pros:

-Very reliable

-Simple, rugged truck design

-Respectable fuel economy (20-mpg empty isn’t out of line with 3.55 gears)

-400,000 to 500,000-mile longevity with proper maintenance

-Large displacement makes the 7.3L less dependent on turbo boost than other engines

-Forged steel connecting rods on all engines

Cons:

-No factory intercooler

-Slouchy power without a programmer in the mix

-Mechanical lift pump delivered lower fuel supply pressure

-TTB Dana 50 proved problematic on 4x4 F-250 models (various wear points)

-Added horsepower and heavy towing can quickly kill the E4OD automatic

-Camshaft position sensor is the 7.3L’s one Achilles heel

Price Range: $3,500 to $18,000

1999-2003 F-250 & F-350

This platform, along with a revamped version of the 7.3L Power Stroke, effectively ignited the payload and horsepower numbers war that’s still raging in Detroit. The Super Duty line of trucks were built separately from the 8,500-pound GVW and under lineup (namely the F-150), and were geared toward the commercial use market. The result was a truck that set the industry standard for the modern heavy-duty diesel pickup. With more than 1.7 million 7.3L Power Strokes produced, replacement part availability remains high and they can still be readily found in western and southern regions. However, rust-free, straight-bodied versions carry a hefty premium, so it’s important to keep that in mind when searching for a first generation Super Duty.

Engine: 7.3L Power Stroke V-8 with HEUI injection system

Transmission(s): 4R100 4-speed automatic, ZF-6 6-speed manual

Best Year(s):’99½ (late ‘99) to ’00 F-250 or F-350 due to these engines having forged steel connecting rods, the later style turbocharger (with 3-inch piping), and higher volume high-pressure oil pump

Pros:

-Very reliable

-Factory intercooler

-Great tow vehicles that are very stable with heavy loads behind them

-Electric lift pump for improved fuel supply pressure and easier serviceability

-Split shot injectors quieted down the 7.3L engine over ’94.5-’97 models

Cons:

-Slouchy power without a programmer in the mix

-Added horsepower and heavy towing can quickly kill the 4R100 automatic

-Powdered metal connecting rod engines (’01-‘03) are not ideal for pursuing big horsepower

-Camshaft position sensor is the 7.3L’s one Achilles heel

-As they continue to age, a new phenomenon of failed PCM’s is plaguing them

Price Range: $7,000 to $22,000

2003-2007 F-250 & F-350

The U.S. marketplace has a unique way of setting the price of goods. Case in point, while most diesel GM and Dodge trucks from the ’03-’07 era are desirable due to their lack of emissions-related components, a 6.0L powered Super Duty can typically be had for $10,000 less. However, by the time the engine’s head gasket, EGR, oil cooler, turbo, and injection system issues are addressed, that 10-grand saved at the time of purchase is in fact needed. With that said, thanks to a variable geometry turbo, higher pressure HEUI injection system, and a well-matched 5R110 automatic, the 6.0L Power Stroke is light-years ahead of the 7.3L it replaced in terms of drivability and out-of-the-box giddy up. You just have to know what you’re getting yourself into (financially) with this generation Super Duty.

Engine: 6.0L Power Stroke V-8 with HEUI injection system

Transmission(s): 5R110 5-speed automatic, ZF-6 6-speed manual

Best Year(s):’06-’07 later models, as some of (not all) mechanical engine issues were ironed out

Pros:

-6.0L offers great power given its smaller displacement (325hp and 560 to 570 lb-ft)

-VGT turbo for instant throttle response

-5R110 TorqShift automatics are very tough and reliable

-‘05+ models received coil spring front suspension and other chassis upgrades for improved towing and hauling capacity

-Integrated trailer brake controller option

Cons:

-Engines can be highly unreliable

-Head gasket, EGR, and oil cooler failures are very common

-Injection system issues run rampant (high pressure oil leaks, failed injectors, FICM failure, etc.)

-Turbo “sticking” issues are typical

-Resale value is very low due to the engine’s known problems

-Fairly expensive to fix

Price Range: $8,000 to $22,000

2008-2010 F-250 & F-350

If you’re looking for the best example of how to make big plug-and-play horsepower, look no further than the 6.4L Power Stroke. With a programmer and free-flowing exhaust the ’08-’10 trucks can produce 550 to 600 horsepower at the wheels and still tow just about anything you need them to. These trucks continue the Super Duty platform’s tradition of above average towing and hauling manners as well. However, as they begin to age, shops have determined that most of them won’t last hundreds of thousands of miles without requiring major repair(s). Failed injectors, high-pressure fuel pumps, and cracked pistons are all becoming more and more common before, near, or just past the 200,000-mile mark.

Engine: 6.4L Power Stroke V-8 with Siemens common-rail injection system

Transmission(s): 5R110 5-speed automatic, ZF-6 6-speed manual

Best Year(s): Any year but with lower miles and detailed service records (lack of maintenance can wreck the common-rail system)

Pros:

-Very easy to add power

-Factory compound turbocharger system is great for response and top end power

-Common-rail injection means more horsepower, torque, and also a quieter engine

-Improved version of the 5R110 TorqShift automatic is even stronger than ’03-’07 models

-Integrated trailer brake controller option

Cons:

-Engines are extremely expensive to fix

-Rarely does the 6.4L make it past 200,000 miles without needing a major repair

-Poor fuel economy (12-15 mpg empty) with emissions equipment intact

-Emissions control devices add a failure point

-Injection system, cracked piston, and melted piston scenarios are all common with age

Price Range: $12,000 to $32,000

2011-2016 F-250 & F-350

The ’11-’16 trucks represent the most capable Super Duty’s ever assembled. Their tremendous ability to lug gives them a low-end torque feel reminiscent of a Cummins, and the combination of a quick-spooling variable geometry turbocharger, standard exhaust brake, and integrated trailer brake controller makes for a very smooth and uneventful towing experience. The 6.7L Power Stroke is built in-house by Ford Motor Company and in conjunction with a Bosch common-rail injection system (and piezoelectric injectors) is the most powerful yet quietest Power Stroke ever produced. Turbo failure is common on ’11-’14 trucks, and EGR problems can surface around the time the factory powertrain warranty ends, but other than that the 6.7L has earned a reputation for stellar reliability so far.

Engine: 6.7L Power Stroke V-8 with Bosch common-rail injection system

Transmission(s): 6R140 6-speed automatic

Best Year(s):’15 or newer due to an updated turbocharger and 440hp, 860 lb-ft offered from the factory

Pros:

-6.7L Power Stroke has proven reliable so far

-VGT turbo for instant response

-400hp and 800 lb-ft (’11-‘14), 440 hp and 860 lb-ft (‘15+) available right out of the box

-Great tow rigs with gobs of low-end torque on tap throughout the rpm range

-6R140 TorqShift automatics have proven tough and reliable to date

-Integrated exhaust brake

-Integrated trailer brake controller

Cons:

-’11-’14 models are known for turbo failure (over-speeding of the turbo is common)

-Emissions system adds multiple failure points, but urea (diesel exhaust fluid) injection brings fuel economy back closer to where it was before the ’08-’10 trucks (14-18 mpg empty)

-EGR failures are common between the 70,000 to 90,000-mile mark

Price Range: $25,000 to $70,000

Think a Ford diesel might not be for you? Click here to see the GM Duramax Diesel buyer's guide.

The second round of Formula Drift’s thirteenth season took place this weekend at Road Atlanta, a race track in Braselton, Georgia around an hour outside of Atlanta. Road Atlanta boasts some of the fastest entry speeds on the Formula Drift circuit, with several drivers hitting 110mph speeds prior to initiation into the first corner in practice. After a rain-filled round in Long Beach, the weekend weather forecast was mostly sunny with only a light sprinkle making a brief appearance on Thursday.

Friday qualifying was topped by Nitto Tire driver Vaughn Gittin Jr., whose second qualifying run earned a score of 94 points from the judges. Defending champion Fredric Aasbo earned the second qualifying position with a score of 93, Matt Field earned third qualifying position, Chris Forsberg earned fourth qualifying position and Odi Bakchis earned the fifth qualifying position. Field, Forsberg and Bakchis all had identical qualifying scores of 90, although Field won the tiebreaker by virtue of his second qualifying score being the highest.

The Friday evening schedule was highlighted by the Pro 2 top 16 tandem competition, the first time the Pro 2 class has taken to the asphalt of Atlanta. Jeff Jones took the win, while Marc Landreville and Ryan Litteral rounded out the podium. Jones was the lone driver pulling double duty on the weekend as he also drove in the PRO class.

The PRO class took to the tarmac for a 90 minute practice session prior to Top 32 tandem competition to get re-acquainted with the track. Weather at the time of top 32 was 80 degrees and sunny, making for nearly perfect conditions for the more than 10,000 fans who packed the turn 10 amphitheater.

Fast forward to the Ford Top 16 or Blackvue Final 4.

AIR FORCE TOP 32

Vaughn Gittin Jr. – Bye Run

With only 31 qualifiers, Vaughn Gittin Jr. will earn a bye run in the first round. It’s a good thing he had a bye run as he dropped two tires off course just in front of the judges stand, but will take his Ford Mustang into the Top 16 round.

Geoff Stoneback vs. Matt Coffman

Stoneback Lead – Good initiation from both drivers, Stoneback opens a good lead heading up the hill and into the horseshoe, but Coffman closes the gap as they round the horseshoe. Stoneback is a little off the inside clip in the middle of the horseshoe, but overall a clean run from both drivers. Not likely a huge advantage for either driver.

Coffman Lead – Coffman has a nice early initiation, Stoneback definitely initiates much closer to Coffman than Coffman was on him on his chase. Coffman shows good angle and line through the horseshoe, but Stoneback maintains good proximity through most of the second half of the course. Two judges vote for Stoneback, one judge wants to see a “One More Time” (OMT) battle but is overruled.

Justin Pawlak vs. Juha Rintanen

Pawlak Lead – Pawlak with a good initiation, Rintanen initiates late to stay close to Pawlak at the first clip but is clearly taking a shallower line. Pawlak opens up a big gap heading up the hill, Rintanen takes an inside line and surges to close the gap just before entering the horseshoe. Pawlak’s car slows substantially at the inside clip in the middle of the horseshoe, Rintanen surges forward and collides with Pawlak. Watching the replay, it looks like Pawlak may have missed a shift. Pawlak re-initiated and finished the course in drift while Rintanen sat in the middle of the horseshoe after the contact. Pawlak is deemed at fault, Rintanen will be allowed to fix any damage without using a competition timeout. Pawlak’s wheel is damaged, which forces him to call his competition timeout.

Rintanen Lead – Rintanen makes the call back to the line, but Pawlak is not able to fix his car within the competition timeout window. Rintanen takes a bye run and earns his pass into the top 16.

Tyler McQuarrie vs. Kristaps Bluss

McQuarrie Lead – Both drivers with a smooth entry, McQuarrie may have dropped a tire briefly at the end of the first turn, but transitions smoothly and carries a two car lead up the hill. McQuarrie has good steering angle heading into the horseshoe, Bluss uses shallower angle to catch up. Bluss is only a car length behind McQuarrie, but spins out coming around the inside clip in the middle of the horseshoe. McQuarrie finishes the run cleanly and will carry an advantage into the second run.

Bluss Lead – Bluss initiates all the way on the rumble strips, McQuarrie enters the horseshoe a car length behind Bluss. Bluss has great smoke and plenty of steering angle through the course, but McQuarrie maintains good proximity through the entire course. Replay shows a small steering correction or two from McQuarrie in chase, but Bluss’ mistakes on the first run was too much to overcome. McQuarrie gets the unanimous win.

Chris Forsberg vs. Andy Gray

Forsberg Lead – Forsberg has done extremely well in Atlanta over the years, taking wins several times. This lead run shows exactly why he’s been successful, looking almost robotic in his run and hitting almost all clipping points perfectly with plenty of smoke. Gray closes the gap entering the horseshoe, but doesn’t have the same level of grip pulling out of the horseshoe and loses ground on chasing Forsberg. Forsberg finishes the run cleanly, Gray is six or seven car lengths behind Forsberg and will likely be at a major disadvantage for the second run.

Gray Lead – Gray has to remove his front bumper before the run. Gray has big angle on initiation, Forsberg taps the clip at the bottom of the hill. Gray has a good run up the hill and into the horseshoe, Forsberg is only a car length behind Gray. Forsberg stays tight on Gray exiting the horseshoe and heading back towards the start line, Gray spins out around the final turn. Forsberg spins to try and avoid Gray, but looks to have made contact with him. Forsberg earns all three votes from the judges.

Dean Kearney vs. Pat Mordaunt

Kearney Lead – Kearney with a good initiation, Mordaunt keeps it close around the first turn and closes the gap again towards the top of the hill. Kearney has good angle and line through the entire course. No major faults from either driver.

Mordaunt Lead – Mordaunt has an early initiation but taps the first initiation cone. Kearney’s distance from Mordaunt in chase is a bit larger heading up the hill, Mordaunt extends the gap exiting the horseshoe and heading down the hill. Kearney goes wide around the final turn and drops all four tires off the track. All three judges vote for Mordaunt, dropping tires around the final turn likely was the downfall for Kearney.

Odi Bakchis vs. Cameron Moore

Bakchis Lead – Bakchis with a good initiation, Moore is tight on Bakchis shortly after initiation but slides wide and loses several car lengths of proximity. Bakchis has a good line and steering angle through the horseshoe, Moore isn’t able to make up much ground through the course. Bakchis finishes the course strong, Moore will likely be at a disadvantage entering his lead run due to the loss in proximity early that was never made up.

Moore Lead – Moore with a good initiation, Bakchis has a correction heading up the hill. Moore has more angle through almost the entire course, Bakchis with shallow steering angle but great proximity through the course. Moore was off the desired line at the clipping point in the middle of the horseshoe, which allowed Bakchis to close the gap. On replay, Bakchis appears to have dropped a tire transitioning from the first corner heading up the hill, but Moore’s line was off at several moments. All three judges voted for Bakchis.

Forrest Wang vs. Jhonnattan Castro

Wang Lead – Wang with big steering angle into the first turn, Castro has much shallower angle and takes out the first clipping point. Castro closes the gap heading up the hill and takes the inside line around the horseshoe to keep close proximity to Wang, but takes out the inside clip in the middle of the horseshoe. Wang extends the lead exiting the horseshoe and finishes the course strong, Castro likely is at a disadvantage due to taking out the clipping points in chase.

Castro Lead – Castro looks much smoother on his lead, initiating early and running a much smoother line. Wang is several car lengths behind, but doesn’t close the gap much through the course. Wang gets within about three car lengths mid-horseshoe, but Castro extends the gap to five or six cars by the end of the course. This might be considered an inactive chase in past seasons, but the rules around inactive chase have gotten blurrier this year. Wang earns the winning votes from all three judges.

Fredric Aasbo vs. Jeff Jones

Aasbo Lead – Aasbo isn’t on the line when it’s time for his tandem battle. We see a pit interview with Aasbo who states that they blew a motor earlier in practice, it appears to be a broken main cap. Aasbo has to call his competition timeout to finish the engine swap. Sounds like they are close to finishing it, but we will move on to the next tandem battle for now.

Aasbo made it back to the hot pit with around one minute to spare, and we have a tandem battle! Aasbo has a good entry, but appears to be down a bit on power. Good tire smoke heading up the hill, Jones closes the gap down to around three car lengths entering the horseshoe. Aasbo goes wide on the inner clip mid-horseshoe, Jones closes the gap exiting the horseshoe, and keeps it close towards the end of the run. Looking at replay, Aasbo may have dropped a tire at the top of the horseshoe, and may have also lost drift just before the finish line.

Jones Lead – Aasbo has a debeaded tire when he pulled up to the line. Having already used his competition timeout, he will not be allowed to touch the car to repair the tire issue. Jones has a solo run and will get the win.

Ryan Tuerck vs. Alec Hohnadell

Tuerck Lead – Tuerck has a special livery this weekend for his partnership with Advance Auto Parts. Tuerck has a smooth lead run, with good steering angle and tire smoke everywhere. Hohnadell taps the first clipping point after initiation, and his front bumper rips off during the transition on the next turn. Hohnadell stays on throttle and closes in on Tuerck entering the horseshoe. Hohnadell applies good pressure through the second half of the course, Tuerck keeps good line and angle through the end of the course. Hohnadell is likely at a slight disadvantage after the run, but can definitely make it up on his lead.

Hohnadell Lead – Hohnadell again taps the first clip on entry and has a good line heading up the hill, pushing all the way out to the rumble zone. Tuerck closes the gap a bit entering the horseshoe, Hohnadell pulls away from Tuerck exiting the horseshoe with a huge amount of steering angle. Tuerck can’t make up the gap and loses drift completely right before the finish line. Tuerck had a big fire behind the car and a backfire before losing drift, sounds like there may have been some damage from the diff. Hohnadell gets the win.

Tanner Foust vs. Kyle Mohan

Foust Lead – Foust’s car is likely the heaviest and longest car on grid while Mohan’s is likely the lightest and shortest. Foust tags the first clipping point after initiation, Mohan, is about two car lengths behind him from initiation all the way up the hill. Mohan closes the gap down to a single car length through the horseshoe, Foust pulls away a bit exiting the horseshoe and heading back towards the starting line. Mohan gets a little lost in the smoke and transitions a little early, which puts him on the wrong line around the final turn. Mohan has to get off the throttle and looks to have lost drift just before the finish line.

Mohan Lead – Mohan with a good early initiation and has a good run up the hill. Foust’s big family car closes the gap heading up the hill but with shallow angle. Mohan has a much better line exiting the horseshoe and heading back towards the start line, Foust stays close to Mohan around the final two turns. All three judges vote for Foust to move on. The matchup could have easily gone to a OMT if Mohan hadn’t lost drift on his chase run.

Chelsea DeNofa vs. Kenneth Moen

DeNofa Lead – DeNofa disclosed overnight that he was having some issues with the car, but wouldn’t discuss details. This is DeNofa’s first tandem battle as the series points leader. DeNofa with a good initiation, Moen may have tapped DeNofa from behind around the first clip. DeNofa opens up a rather large gap heading up the hill, easily around five or six car lengths. Moen is way off line heading up the hill, but closes the gap a bit exiting the horseshoe and heading around the final two corners. Likely an advantage to DeNofa entering the second run.

Moen Lead – Moen didn’t have any tandem battles in his new BMW in Long Beach due to hitting the wall during his parade lap, so this is his first chance to battle in his BMW. Moen’s car has tons of smoke all over the course and appears to be one of the fastest cars on track. Moen opens up a seven to eight car length gap heading up the hill, but drops a tire entering the horseshoe and hits one of the outside clipping zone markers. Moen continues to dump huge smoke through the horseshoe, DeNofa seems unable to make up the gap much and Moen finishes the second half of the course around five car lengths ahead of DeNofa. All three judges vote for a OMT battle.

One More Time

DeNofa Lead – DeNofa with a good initiation and angle into the first corner, Moen tucks in right behind him heading up the hill and keeps the proximity close entering the horseshoe. DeNofa drops a tire in the first outside zone, Moen takes the inside line around the horseshoe while DeNofa has huge amounts of steering angle. DeNofa opens up the gap around three lengths exiting the horseshoe, but Moen closes it back down to a bit over one car length around the final turn to keep the run close. Overall, a great run from Moen, and a few mistakes from DeNofa really allowed Moen to stay close.

Moen Lead – DeNofa initiates late on the entry and is tight on Moen, but loses drift shortly after the first turn. Moen opens up a huge gap heading up the hill, DeNofa is nowhere to be found and appears to have a mechanical issue. Moen drops two tires at the top of the hill rounding the horseshoe, but officials are waiving yellow flags due to DeNofa being in Moen’s line exiting the horseshoe. Moen briefly backs out of the throttle, but maintains drift and finishes the course strong. DeNofa limps back to the start line, but will clearly earn a 0 on this run. Moen moves on, eliminating the current points leader.

Matt Field vs. Faruk Kugay

Field Lead – Field with a manji entry, Kugay initiates late and keeps close proximity to Field. Field pulls away after the first clip and opens the gap up to around six car lengths around almost the entire horseshoe. Kugay takes a shallower line and makes up a bit of the gap, but Field has a very smooth run and Kugay takes out the final clipping point cone due to being too shallow on the final turn. The replay shows that there was contact shortly after initiation, but judges specifically asked drivers to avoid a manji entry. It will be interesting to see how the judges interpret this. Judges deem Kugay at fault which allows Field time to inspect his car for damage.

Clarification comes that due to Field using the manji entry the judges mentioned in the drivers meeting that it would count as a strike and require a restart. That run doesn’t count, so we re-run the first half of the battle.

Field Lead – Field has a much smoother initiation, Kugay tries to initiate late but Field pulls away from Kugay easily. Kugay loses substantial angle heading up the hill and into the horseshoe, Field opens up a gap of around eight car lengths through the horseshoe, and maintains good smoke and angle around the second half of the course. Likely a major advantage to Field after this run.

Kugay Lead – Kugay taps the first clipping point, Field transitions early between the initial turn and ends up ahead of Kugay as they head up the hill. Kugay stays on throttle and tries to stay ahead of Field, but Field doesn’t allow Kugay to take his line entering the horseshoe, which pushes Kugay off course. Both drivers shut it down around the horseshoe, it will be interesting to see how the judges treat this run. There are rules about where a driver can pass, and it doesn’t appear that the part of the track that Field passed Kugay on was one of them. Field also had a flat as he got back to the start line. Two judges vote for Kugay, one judge votes for a OMT. Overall, a sloppy run from both drivers.

Michael Essa vs. Ken Gushi

Essa Lead – Essa initiates with impressive angle into the first corner, that was nearly a perfectly executed backwards entry into the first corner! That entry is the type that gets the fans excited! Gushi is wide around the first clip and wide again entering the horseshoe, which doesn’t help his opportunity to make up ground on Essa. Essa pulls away from Gushi exiting the horseshoe and heading back towards the finish line, with tons of tire smoke and great steering angle.

Gushi Lead – Essa initiates later and keeps great proximity to Gushi around the first turn. Essa has a bit shallower steering angle than judges would like to see heading up the hill, but keeps great proximity. Gushi drops a tire in the first outside zone in the horseshoe, Essa stays close to Gushi around the horseshoe and heading back up the hill. Essa looks fantastic in this chase run, he looks much smoother in this E46 chassis than he did at any point last year in his Camaro chassis. Essa earns all three votes from the judges, and now both the second and third place drivers from Long Beach have been eliminated! This will definitely shake up the points chase.

Dai Yoshihara vs. Pat Goodin

Yoshihara Lead – Good angle from Yoshihara after initiation and around the first turn, Goodin is way off the line but keeps all four tires on the asphalt. Yoshihara opens up a big gap heading up the hill and fills the first outside zone well, Goodin is over ten car lengths behind Yoshihara and shuts it down prior to the finish line which will count as a zero for the run. Yoshihara has a huge advantage entering the second run.

Goodin Lead – Goodin is having major car troubles and calls off his lead run. Yoshihara gets the win.

"Mad" Mike Whiddett vs. Alex Heilbrunn

Whiddett Lead – An all Nitto Tire battle between the reigning Pro 2 champion and the former New Zealand champion. Whiddett has a good initiation, but takes out the inside clippint point. Whiddett opens up a three car gap or so heading up the hill, Heilbrunn closes down the gap to about a single car through the horseshoe. Whiddett opens it back up again exiting the horseshoe and transitioning to head back to the start line, Heilbrunn strays wide and drops at least one and possibly two tires into the red clay dirt before the finish line.

Heilbrunn Lead – Heilbrunn with big angle in the first corner, Whiddett has a good chase run. Heilbrunn opens up a similar gap to what Whiddett had on his lead, Whiddett takes the inside line around the horseshoe to close the gap and keeps a close two car gap over the second half of the course. Overall, Whiddett definitely had a better gap around the second half of the course, Heilbrunn’s dropped tire (or tires) at the end of his chase may be his fault. Two judges vote for Whiddett, one judge votes for a OMT.

FORD TOP 16

The Top 16 opening ceremonies kicked off with a performance by the US Air Force silent drill team, followed by 16 young men and women taking an oath of enlistment into the Air Force. The US Air Force Color Guard then presented the colors, and a beautiful rendition of the national anthem was sung by a fellow Air Force singer. Each driver was introduced, then a round of burnouts and donuts was performed as the drivers headed back to the hot pits to stage for the top 16 battles.

Vaughn Gittin Jr. vs. Geoff Stoneback

Gittin Jr. Lead – Great angle from Gittin Jr. on initiation, he definitely has a great line through the first turn. Stoneback isn’t far behind, but clearly not the same level of steering angle. Stoneback had a good line, cutting to the inside line through the horseshoe to narrow the gap a bit between the cars, but Gittin Jr. increased the gap as they pulled out of the horseshoe and headed back down the hill. Overall, a great lead run from Gittin Jr., no major mistakes from Stoneback but also not the best proximity.

Stoneback Lead – Stoneback nudges the front clip after initiation, Gittin Jr. is only two car lengths behind heading up the hill. Gittin Jr. remains around two car lengths behind Stoneback through most of the course, again no major mistakes from either driver but clearly better proximity and at times better steering angle from Gittin Jr. Stoneback briefly opened up the gap exiting the horseshoe, but only by a car length or two. Crowd chants for “one more time." One judge agrees, but two others vote for Gittin Jr.

McQuarrie vs. Rintanen

McQuarrie Lead – McQuarrie with an impressive early and angle-filled initiation, Rintanen looks shakey behind McQuarrie and has to re-initiate. Rintanen gets aggressive coming up the hill and closes in very tight on McQuarrie through the horseshoe. McQuarrie pulls away from the middle of the horseshoe through the second half of the course, finishing with around a six car gap back to Rintanen. Likely a big lead to McQuarrie.

Rintanen Lead – Both cars initiate at almost the same time, and transition through the first corner almost identically. Rintanen extends his lead heading up the hill with tons of steering angle, but McQuarrie closes the gap by taking the inside line entering the horseshoe. Rintanen is pushing his car from lock to lock better through the transitions, but loses angle exiting the horseshoe and coasts through the final two corners instead of drifting. A big mistake by Rintanen, all three judges give McQuarrie the win.

Forsberg vs. Mordaunt

Forsberg Lead – As soon as Forsberg flicks his car sideways, Mordaunt is right on his door! Less than a car length between both cars through the first two corners, Mordaunt gives Forsberg barely enough room to transition, then dives right back in on Forsberg! Mordaunt has a steering correction near the top of the hill, but has fantastic proximity through the entire course! Great chase run from Mordaunt.

Mordaunt Lead – Good entry from both drivers, Mordaunt enters around three car lengths ahead of Forsberg but Forsberg is only a car length behind Mordaunt by the top of the hill. Mordaunt again had a small steering correction midway up the hill, but Forsberg had fairly shallow steering angle to close the proximity gap. Forsberg maintains good proximity through the horseshoe, transitioning at almost the exact same time as Mordaunt exiting the horseshoe and sticking close to Mordaunt through the final half of the track. All three judges vote for a OMT battle.

One More Time
Forsberg Lead – Mordaunt with bigger angle on initiation, but that throws him off the line for the transition to head up the hill and Mordaunt drops a tire. Forsberg has a good line and plenty of tire smoke heading up the hill, Mordaunt cuts the transition to the horseshoe a bit early to close the gap between the cars down to a single car length and maintains that tight proximity through most of the horseshoe. Forsberg opens the gap up slightly exiting the horseshoe and through the final two turns, overall a good run from both drivers but likely a slight advantage to Forsberg.

Mordaunt Lead – Mordaunt takes out the inner clip on the first corner and opens up a nice three car gap by the top of the hill. Mordaunt over-rotates as he nears the inner clip in the middle of the horseshoe, Forsberg is able to avoid contact behind him. All three judges vote for Forsberg, overall a good set of runs for Mordaunt before the spin.

Bakchis vs. Wang

Bakchis Lead – With good initiation, Bakchis opens up a gap with tons of tire smoke as he heads up the hill, Wang narrows the gap as they move through the horseshoe. No major mistakes from either driver, Wang was around three car lengths behind Bakchis for the majority of the track. We’ve seen closer battles today, but no noticeable mistakes from either driver.

Wang Lead – Wang left the start line early, so we have a restart. Wang with big angle through the first corner, Bakchis takes an inside line through the transition on the bottom of the hill to close the gap down to about a single car length. Wang takes the wide line and drops at least one tire but possibly two tires in front of the judges tower. Bakchis gets back on course and dumps big angle through the horseshoe, Bakchis miscalculates his line exiting the horseshoe and possibly dropping a tire as well. All three judges decide in favor of Bakchis, it seems that Wang's tire drop in front of the judges tower may have been two tires off and caused Bakchis’ tire to drop off.

Hohnadell vs. Jones

Hohnadell Lead – A battle of Chevy-powered S14 cars, Hohnadell has a good initiation and much smoother run from start to finish. Jones is about four car lengths behind at the start of the hill, but closes it down to around two car lengths entering the horseshoe. Jones has a few major steering corrections through the horseshoe, Hohnadell has substantially more tire smoke through the entire course. Jones has very shallow angle around the final turn, not sure if he lost drift before the starting line.

Jones Lead – Jones initiates with Hohnadell very close behind him around the first turn, Hohnadell may have made light contact with Jones after the first clip. Jones continues through the course smoothly, Hohnadell again has substantially more angle and tire smoke through most of the course. Hohnadell kept the proximity between the cars much closer in his chase run compared to Jones, all three judges vote for Hohnadell to move on to the top 8.

Foust vs. Moen

Foust Lead – Foust with a smooth initiation, Moen takes out the first inner clip and shatters the front bumper. Moen loses drift shortly after the contact with the clip, Foust finishes the course smoothly while Moen limps the car back to the start line. It’s possible that Moen could have knocked the intercooler piping loose, which would lead to a major drop in horsepower. Moen calls his competition timeout, Foust will have a major advantage entering the second run.

Moen Lead – Moen has impressive amounts of tire smoke all over the track, really showing what his BMW is capable of. Foust is about three car lengths behind Moen at the bottom of the hill, and Moen extends that lead to around five car lengths by the top of the hill. Both drivers round the horseshoe smoothly and finish the course cleanly, with Moen having a substantial lead across the finish line. This might have been called an inactive chase in previous seasons, but seems to be active enough to earn the win for Foust. All three judges vote for Foust. This could have been an intense battle had Moen not lost boost around that first corner of his chase run! Watch for Moen to make waves through the rest of the season.

Essa vs. Kugay

Essa Lead – Essa looks very comfortable in this E46 chassis. Essa has a clean run with tons of tire smoke, Kugay slides into the pea gravel at the bottom of the hill after initiation and gets a zero. Essa finishes the course cleanly, Kugay drives out of the gravel and will be at a major disadvantage entering the second run.

Kugay Lead – Kugay initiates cleanly on his lead, Essa is about two car lengths back at the start of the hill and reduces the gap down to a single car length by the end of the hill. Kugay has a good run in the lead, but Essa’s chase is one of the better ones we’ve seen today. With no major mistakes, Essa will easily move on to the top 8.

Yoshihara vs Whiddett

Yoshihara Lead – Yoshihara with a smooth initiation, Whiddett gets aggressive after the first corner and closes the gap on Yoshihara quickly. Whiddett is only inches from Yoshihara through most of the horseshoe, Yoshihara took out the outside clipping zone cones but keeps both tires on the pavement through the run.

Whiddett Lead – Both drivers with shaky initiations, Yoshihara isn’t as close to Whiddett heading up the hill or through the horseshoe, but seems to be smoother and with fewer steering corrections. Both drivers mirror each other well through the second half of the course, this could easily go OMT. One judge votes for Yoshihara, but two judges agree with the crowd and send the drivers to a OMT.

One More Time

Yoshihara Lead – Yoshihara’s car looks much smoother than in previous rounds, his entries and transitions look like he isn’t fighting the car. Whiddett is also very comfortable in his car, and has proven the tandem capabilities of the short wheelbase chassis. Yoshihara has great steering angle, Whiddett’s car has much twitchier steering and Whiddett is fighting to keep the car sideways up the hill. Whiddett has great proximity to Yoshihara, but isn’t very smooth. Yoshihara paints his tire along the rear clipping zone at the top of the horseshoe in front of the judges, Whiddett has much more tire smoke in the first half of the course but Yoshihara dumps out tire smoke exiting the horseshoe. Yoshihara opens up the gap to around three car lengths as they finish the last two corners.

Whiddett Lead – Yoshihara’s car looks to be twice the size of Whiddett’s when he chases! Yoshihara closes the gap on Whiddett much earlier than Whiddett did, and with much more steering angle. Whiddett taps the inner clip in the middle of the horseshoe, Yoshihara stays close through the entire horseshoe and the entire second half of the course. Whiddett’s runs were good, but not as clean as Yoshihara’s. Yoshihara gets the unanimous decision.

NITTO TIRE GREAT 8

Gittin Jr. vs. McQuarrie

Gittin Jr. Lead – Gittin Jr. has a great lead run, looking almost identical to his top qualifying run with tons of tire smoke. McQuarrie transitions quickly through the first turn and drops a tire around the second turn, but otherwise recovers well and puts a good chase run on Gittin Jr.

McQuarrie Lead – Good lead run from McQuarrie, much smoother than his chase run. Gittin Jr. closes the gap down to a single car length through the horseshoe and stays tight exiting the horseshoe. Gittin Jr. gets the win, guaranteeing himself a spot on the podium by virtue of being the top qualifier.

Forsberg vs. Bakchis

Forsberg Lead – Both of these drivers stood on the podium in Atlanta last year, but only one driver will have that opportunity this year. Forsberg initiates very early and right on the rumble strip, Bakchis is right behind him with impressive amounts of angle. Forsberg keeps around a three car gap heading up the hill, Bakchis stays on the throttle longer to suck in close to Forsberg as they enter the horseshoe. Forsberg fills the outside zone, Bakchis has good proximity but is shallower on his line. Bakchis with a wide line exiting the horseshoe, Forsberg was on a much better line through the second half of the course even though Bakchis had more impressive steering angle. Bakchis takes out the final inside clip, likely a small advantage to Forsberg.

Bakchis Lead – Bakchis left-foot brakes shortly after initiation, Forsberg nudges the inside clip at the bottom of the hill, but stays close to Bakchis heading up the hill and entering the horseshoe. Bakchis takes out the inside clip in the middle of the horseshoe, Forsberg keeps very close proximity to Bakchis around the entire horseshoe and keeps a good line around the final two turns. Forsberg was definitely more consistent through both runs, judges agree and give him the win.

Foust vs. Hohnadell

Foust Lead – Foust initiates with Hohnadell close behind him, Hohnadell stays tight on him all the way up the hill and into the horseshoe. Both drivers fill the outside zone in front of the judges nicely, Hohnadell mirrors Foust’s transitions almost perfectly and never falls more than a car length or two behind Foust. Both drivers had a clean run, but Hohnadell’s proximity while in chase is impressive.

Hohnadell Lead – Hohnadell left-foot brakes shortly after initiation to set his angle, Foust has a smoother initiation. Hohnadell takes out the first clipping point at the bottom of the hill, Foust drops a tire transitioning before heading up the hill. Hohnadell extends his lead to almost four car lengths by the top of the hill, then pours on some massive steering angle and tire smoke as they move into the horseshoe. Foust takes the inside line into the horseshoe and dives in hard on Hohnadell’s door, Hohnadell takes out the inside clip in the middle of the horseshoe, both drivers dump huge angle and tire smoke exiting the horseshoe and mirror each other’s transitions through the final two corners. Hohnadell drops his bumper off at the clipping point at the bottom of the hill, Foust stays tight on Hohnadell. Tough to claim an advantage from either driver, overall a great set of runs! Two judges vote for Hohnadell to move on, one judge wants to see them go OMT. Majority rules, Hohnadell will make an appearance in the Final 4.

Yoshihara vs. Essa

Yoshihara Lead – Both of these cars have similar colorways, and both drivers are looking to get back to their previous championship form. Essa with a correction after the first corner and again at the top of the hill, Yoshihara is smooth through the entire course with plenty of smoke. Yoshihara had a three car gap after initiation that extended to around five cars by the horseshoe, Essa was never able to make up much ground on that gap.

Essa Lead - Essa with big angle into the first corner, Yoshihara’s car is noticeably slower to get sideways on initiation. Essa opens up the gap heading up the hill, Yoshihara briefly closes the gap near the entry to the horseshoe but Essa increases the gap again through the horseshoe and transitioning back down the hill. Yoshihara gets the win.

BLACKVUE FINAL 4

Vaughn Gittin Jr. vs. Chris Forsberg

Gittin Jr. Lead – At this point, any little mistake could cost these drivers the win. Gittin Jr. has another strong initiation but taps the inner clipping point sign on the first turn, Forsberg stays close to Gittin Jr. through the course and is only a car length behind Gittin Jr. through the entire horseshoe. Both drivers fill the outside zone of the horseshoe nicely, transition smoothly and finish the course cleanly.

Forsberg Lead – Forsberg takes out the same first clipping point shortly after initiation, Gittin Jr. is tight in chase. Forsberg has more angle coming up the hill and pulls a bit of a gap, Gittin Jr. closes the gap down a bit through the horseshoe. Forsberg opens up the gap again exiting the horseshoe, but it shrinks a bit around the final two corners. It’s tough to see how the judges could pick a winner as both runs looked nearly identical. All three judges vote for Gittin Jr.

The runs looked nearly identical, a “one more time” seems easily justified. A side-by-side replay showed that Gittin Jr. had a slightly better outside line around the horseshoe while leading, perhaps that’s what the judges saw to give him the win. Otherwise, both runs looked fantastic! The good news for Forsberg is that he qualified higher than both Hohnadell and Yoshihara, which means Forsberg is guaranteed third place.

Yoshihara vs Hohnadell

Yoshihara Lead – Yoshihara is looking for his first podium in more than two years, Hohnadell looking for his second career podium to follow his first podium at Seattle last season. Yoshihara has a smooth initiation, although not nearly as much angle as either Gittin Jr. or Forsberg. Hohnadell has around a three car gap up most of the hill, but cuts the entry to the horseshoe and quickly closes it down to a single car gap. Hohnadell stays very tight through the horseshoe, Yoshihara pulls away by a car or two exiting the horseshoe then extends the gap by another car or two around the final two turns, finishing around four car lengths ahead of Hohnadell.

Hohnadell Lead – Hohnadell with a good initiation, Yoshihara is slower to get sideways again but has a good line through the first two corners. Hohnadell has some steering corrections coming up the hill, but has tons of angle and smoke exiting the horseshoe and finishing the final two turns of the course. Yoshihara has very shallow angle around the final two turns, but judges likely can’t see it due to Hohnadell’s smokescreen. Looking at the replay, Hohnadell took out the inner clipping point in the middle of the horseshoe. Hohnadell had moments of brilliance, while Yoshihara had less exciting but overall a smoother pair of runs. Two judges vote for Yoshihara, one votes for a OMT. Yoshihara is heading to the final round, his first podium since winning Long Beach in 2013.

BLACKVUE FINAL BATTLE

Gittin Jr. vs Yoshihara

Two former champions coming out of challenging seasons, both Gittin Jr. and Yoshihara are looking to take their driver-owned teams to the podium. For Yoshihara, the podium is his first since taking over ownership duties, while Gittin Jr. has been vacant from the podium since Miami 2015. Yoshihara has eight career event wins entering this final, while Gittin Jr. has seven. The podium will be Yoshihara’s 23^rd of his career, while Gittin Jr. has earned his 20^th career podium.

Gittin Jr. Lead – Yoshihara goes hot into the first corner and drops a tire on the far end of the infield. Gittin Jr. has a smooth initiation and pulls a large gap after the first two corners, and Yoshihara really doesn’t make up much ground through the rest of the course. Gittin Jr. puts the car on the right line through the entire course, Yoshihara has a good line and smoke but lacks the speed and grip that Gittin Jr. has dialed into his Ford Mustang.

Yoshihara Lead – Gittin Jr. closes the gap down to just two car lengths entering the horseshoe, Yoshihara has a good line but can’t pull away from Gittin Jr. Gittin Jr. gets the win!

(Video: Network A)

This is Vaughn Gittin Jr’s third straight win at Road Atlanta, also his eighth career win, tying Forsberg and Yoshihara for most by an active driver and second behind Sam Hubinette’s nine career wins for the all-time lead. The podium is Yoshihara’s 23^rd of his career and Forsberg’s 28^th of his career. Considering this was the 82^nd Formula Drift event ever, Forsberg averages a podium every three events. Gittin Jr. now carries a 36 point lead in the championship into next month’s event in Orlando.

(Photos: Luke Munnell, Takuya Akiyama)

For a current points standings, check out Formula Drift's Atlanta recap, and if you want more drifting content, click this.

(Photo:Jeep)

It’s a great time to be an off-road enthusiast. Some people may disagree, but we can’t think of a period in automotive history where so many capable 4x4s are being produced at the OE level. Sure, there are the dreaded electronic nannies that work as the fun police on the street, but many of those can be defeated off-road. In fact, we dare say that even with the computer monitoring your off-road shenanigans, stock for stock, modern 4x4s are still more capable than the four-wheel drives of yesteryear.

Here, we’ve put together a list of five of the best factory offered 4x4s that have graced showrooms over the past ten years. These are not some small grouping of one-off vehicles, but rather readily available vehicles, most of which can still be purchased new today. Many of these you can purchase used for a deal, while some still command premium prices on dealer lots. No matter what your budget, our top five late-model 4x4 picks definitely live up to the hoopla.

Jeep Wrangler Rubicon

We’re still amazed at how many people don’t fully grasp how incredible the Rubicon package is. Launched in 2003 with the Jeep Wrangler TJ, a Rubicon package provides the Wrangler with mud-terrain tires, Dana 44 front and rear axles, selectable differential lockers, a 4:1 low-range transfer case ratio, and a host of other off-road worthy appointments. When the JK model arrived in 2007, the Rubicon package only got better with Next Gen Dana 44 axles and an electronic sway bar disconnect. Plus, with the launch of the four-door Unlimited model, the Wrangler became something that was actually practical for a family on the go. Even if you didn’t want to install a single one of the thousands of off-road accessories there are for the Wrangler, the Rubicon will take you places that other modified 4x4s wouldn’t dare go.

Ford Raptor

We may have some disagree with the following statement, but we believe it to be true. The Ford Raptor is the best iteration of the F-150 platform ever produced. The amount of R&D and actual time spent beating these trucks ruthlessly in the desert before going into production is amazing. The fact that the SVT team were able to get the bean counters and lawyers to sign off on a desert-themed truck that is fit with a button that kills all electronic nannies, and we mean all of them, is downright amazing. The truck comes with a selectable rear locker, internal bypass Fox shocks, and 35-inch-tall Raptor-spec all-terrains. To this date, there’s no other factory produced 4x4 that can handle high-speed desert terrain as well as the Raptor.

(photo:RAM) 

Ram Power Wagon

It has front and rear selectable differential lockers, an electronically controlled sway bar disconnect, skidplates, and a winch. How’s that for off-road appointments? When it comes to ¾-ton trucks, none are more off-road oriented than a late-model Power Wagon. While we like the 2005 gen body style for its slightly more compact design and better ground clearance, the latest Power Wagon can be had with a fully coil-sprung suspension and 6.4L V-8. Both are awesome and absolutely trail worthy. Where the Ford Raptor dominates the desert, the Power Wagon plays the hand of workhorse and trail machine. It’s like having a Jeep Wrangler Rubicon on steroids. Aside from dismal fuel economy, there’s not many faults with this fullisize wheeler.

Toyota Tacoma TRD Off-Road

For the life of us, we can’t wrap our minds around why there are not more compact pickup trucks with excellent off-road packages. The undisputed king of the mid-sized truck game is Toyota, and the Tacoma has earned that crown. Going back to the second-gen Tacoma (2005-2015), the TRD Off-Road package has seen a few variations, all of which were aimed at increasing off-road performance, not just looks. A selectable rear locker, class-leading ground clearance, and a finely-tuned off-road suspension makes the TRD Off-Road Tacoma the midsize truck to own.

(photo:GM) 

Hummer H3 Alpha

We were torn whether or not to include the H3, but we want to keep the memory alive! The Hummer name is one of the most controversial in all of the 4x4 world. The H1, and even the H2, were never really excellent trail vehicles in a conventional sense. But, the H3 Alpha had the best potential to turn the brand around. The Alpha part of the puzzle is critical. Unlike a regular H3, the Alpha fit the mid-sized SUV with front and rear selectable lockers, a 4:1 transfer case low range, and something the four-door Wrangler so desperately needs, a healthy V-8 engine. Sadly, this top-tier off-roader came at the end of Hummer’s life. By the time it arrived, it was too late. The H2 had such a negative stigma, that it soiled the rest of the brand. While there are not as many H3 Alpha’s roaming the roads, they do exist. By one and ‘wheel a piece of history.

Need some tips for buying and selling? Click here.

When the top 3 finishers from Round 1 Streets of Long Beach are eliminated in the Top 32, there's sure to be some wild battles that'll shake up the championship standings. By qualifying first, Vaughn Gittin Jr. earned himself one of the easiest roads to victory at Road Atlanta. Starting with a bye run to open the competition, it continued with a guaranteed podium spot after defeating Tyler McQuarrie in the Nitto Tire Great 8 - which is where he was eliminated in the last round. In the end, it all came down to a pair of veterans, former champions facing off with Gittin going up against Dai Yoshihara in the Blackvue Final Battle. When the smoke cleared, it was the crowd that was cheering for this Mustang. Vaughn Gittin Jr.'s win at Road Atlanta also marks Team Nitto Tire's third consecutive 1st place finish on this course.

(Photos: Luke Munnell, Takuya Akiyama)

Check out the entire Top 32 play-by-play from Hotlanta.

Stay updated on all Formula Drift news and coverage throughout the season at DRIVINGLINE.com/DRIFT

So you have modified your diesel over the winter and you are wondering just how much faster your truck is. With the weather warming up, it’s time to get to the track and experience the rush of a boosted launch and the unique culture that is the drag racing hobby. With diesel drag racing still being primarily a niche thing, we recommend hitting up your local track’s test ‘n tune night if you’ll be competing for the first time. It’s also a good idea to go to a drag strip that runs a Sportsman (Christmas) tree, as this is the best way for an amateur to learn the art of the launch (i.e. dig, hole shot, start of the race). However, before you head to the track, check out the following tips so you know what to expect. There is a lot more to drag racing than simply lining up and putting the pedal to the metal.

Use Four-Wheel Drive (Where Applicable)

If you’ve got it, use it. Diesel trucks have the unique advantage of building considerable boost on the starting line, storing tremendous amounts of torque in the torque converter, and then instantly putting all of it to use once it’s go time. However, if you think you are going to find traction in two-wheel drive, on street tires, and with (potentially) 1,000 lb-ft of torque on tap, you are wrong. Lock the transfer case in four-high and never look back. The difference between a two-wheel drive and four-wheel-drive launch is a truck doing a 200-foot burnout vs. a truck that grips and goes.

Learn To Stage (Build Boost)

Just before you’ve tripped the first beam (with your front tires) which activates the top-most bulb on the tree, push the brake pedal to the floor and use the accelerator to begin building rpm and boost (power-braking). From there, creep forward slowly and continue to build boost (or at least, hold it steady) until the second pair of staging bulbs is lit, then maintain that boost and rpm or keep building on it. With every truck being different (different horsepower levels, torque converter stalls, turbocharger sizing and configuration, and so on), the amount of boost that is needed to yield the best launch will vary. Too much boost can lead to tire spin or a frontend that hops. Too little boost and you’ll be slow to get out of the hole. Both scenarios will result in your elapsed time (E.T.) being longer than what the truck is truly capable of. It’s up to you to find the happy medium on what boost to leave the line at. In general, single turbo trucks launch well at 10-12 psi of boost, while trucks with compound turbo setups require more (15-25 psi).

Leave On The Last Yellow

A common misconception with novice drag racers is that green means go. On a Sportsman tree, always leave on the last yellow amber because this is when the reaction timer starts (the reaction time stops once your tires leave the starting line). Once you and the car or truck in the other lane are staged (both pairs of bulbs are lit), the large, solid ambers will gradually begin illuminating one at a time (in half-second intervals) from top to bottom. Once the third (last) amber lights, it’s time to go. To be sure, it will take some practice and you’ll need to get a good feel for your truck in order to know exactly when to leave, so be prepared to make several passes before you get the best possible E.T. out of your truck. A green light indicates a correct start, while a red light means you left too soon.

Staging Etiquette (Be Courteous)

This is more important than you might think. Listening to track officials about where to line up and when to run is first and foremost, but it’s what you do while staging that is most vital. For starters, don’t double-bulb your competitor. This means you light both the pre-staged and staged bulbs by driving up to the starting line too quickly. It’s customary for competitors to take turns lighting the bulbs (as in, you light your first bulb, your competitor lights his or hers, then inches forward to light the second, followed by you lighting your second bulb). This way, both parties are allowed to stage how they prefer to and aren’t rushed through the staging process. On the flip side, it pays to light the bulbs in a reasonable timeframe. Remember that while you are power-braking your truck you’re building quite a bit of heat in the transmission. Taking too long to stage (or even timing out) can not only be frustrating, but it can be damaging to you or your competitor’s vehicle. Many drag racers have thousands—if not hundreds of thousands—invested in their cars, so it behooves you to be as courteous in your staging habits as possible.

The Slip

*R/T is your reaction time.

*The 60’ on your slip is your 60-foot time (under 2 seconds would indicate good traction on most trucks)

*The 1/8 is your eighth-mile elapsed time in seconds

*The ¼ is your quarter-mile elapsed time

*MPH is your vehicle’s recorded speed at the end of the track

Final Tips

*Check with your local track first to see if there are any special safety requirements to race.

*Bring a helmet (some require one)

*Dress in long pants and wear closed-end shoes (no shorts or flip-flops)

*Make sure your truck’s bed is free of any loose or unwanted debris.

*Ensure you have no fluid leaks or cracks in your windshield (a no-no at most tracks)

*Air down your tires for a wider footprint.

*Leave the A/C off!

*Avoid the wet box if your truck is 4x4.

*Don’t forget your time slip printout at the end of the track.

*Pull over immediately along the guardrail if you break something or experience any type of mechanical failure. (This keeps debris off the track’s racing surface so a quick cleanup is all that is necessary to get racing back underway.)

The Ultimate Callout Challengepresented by Alligator Performance is an invite only, three day battle to prove who has the baddest diesel in the nation. Day one had teams sizing each other up on the dyno. The next day would be spent on the drag strip. The final day of action is a sled pull event, which we regretfully missed out on due to a prior commitment. We did check back with the UCC and found that this year’s winner was Lavon Miller from FirePunk Diesel.

Here are some of the highlights of the events.

Thinking about racing your diesel truck? Click here!

For years the traditional white logos found on larger profile tires have been a point of customization in the aftermarket car scene. Tire stencils allow the user to draw on the logo or name of the tire manufacturer (or any other lettering) along the sidewall of the tire using white or colored paint. As more and more people started using stencils and carrying paint for touching up the lettering, a new product emerged: the tire sticker. We gave it a shot to see how it works.

The tire sticker is a set of decals made of rubber that adhere to the sidewall of the tire using a supplied bottle of adhesive. Unlike traditional tire stencils, the decals are fully removable and have no chance of overspray or dripping paint. Spoiler alert: the results are fantastic. So how did we do it?

First up, you’ll need some supplies. It’s highly recommended you collect everything before starting so you can move through the steps one after another on each tire. You will need:

• The tire stickers
• Decal adhesive
• A shop rag
• Fine sandpaper
• Brake cleaner
• Acetone
• Household degreaser (we used dish soap and water in a spray bottle)

Step 1: Get that grime off.

You’ll want to clean your tires no matter how new they may be. A common household degreaser and a cloth is good enough to get most of the surface grime off.

Step 2: Smooth it out.

Using a fine grit of sandpaper, rough up the surface to allow the decals to adhere as well as possible. Use acetone to remove any leftover grease and repeat as necessary until there is no more surface grease. This is important, as you’ll want the decal to stick as well as possible so they don’t fly off while driving.

Step 3: Make it stick.

Apply the supplied adhesive to the back of the decal and spread it to the edges of the lettering using the tip of the nozzle. Completely covering the back of the decal with a thin layer of adhesive will ensure the best results.

Step 4: Apply pressure.

Line up the decal with the sidewall and press firmly. Each piece of the decal (letter, stripe, number, etc.) should get a good 20-30 seconds of pressure from your fingertips. Again, time invested in the installation will be rewarded.

Step 5: Let it sit.

Allow the decals to sit for 5 minutes and remove the transfer film. It will be tempting to immediately drive off, but for maximum adhesion it is recommended to allow the decals to dry for an hour before washing them or driving with them installed.

There you have it! A little time and effort is rewarded with yet another custom touch on your car. If we've got you interested, order your custom set at TireStickers.com!

Special thanks to the guys at Auto Tuned for lending a hand on this installation.

So you’re in the market for a used diesel pickup and it’s gotta be a Cummins. We understand. Even if you’re a Bow Tie or Blue Oval loyalist, the fact that Ram trucks house the legendary Cummins inline-six engine under the hood makes giving them a look virtually inescapable. That’s why whether you’re searching for your first vehicle, first diesel, a certain sought after model, or you’re on the hunt for a slightly used workhorse with a friendly price tag, we’ve put together an all-inclusive Cummins-powered Ram guide for you. Look for the good, the bad, and the ugly in our Pros and Cons list, as well as what we consider to be the pinnacle year(s) to own each generation of Cummins-powered Dodge trucks.

1989-1993 D250, D350, W250, W350

While most ’89-’93 Dodges (affectionately known as first-gens) have been killed off due to rust, transmission failures, and old age, you can still find clean versions out West or in the South. Keep in mind that even if you’re looking for a fixer-upper, the 5.9L Cummins alone warrants at least a $500 to $1,000 price tag. These trucks are the least refined, bare-bones models offered and were based off of the ’72-’93 body style that nearly went extinct. But, they’re extremely simple, reliable, and can knock down some killer fuel economy.

Engine: 5.9L Cummins with Bosch VE injection pump

Transmission(s): TF727 3-speed automatic (’89-‘93), Getrag 5-speed manual (’89-‘93), A518 4-speed automatic (’91.5-‘93)

Best Year(s): 1991.5-1993 due to the factory intercooler option and available A518 4-speed automatic

Pros:

-Simple

-Reliable

-Lightweight

-Great fuel economy (20-25 mpg when driven conservatively)

Cons:

-Prone to rust

-Electrical problems surface as they age

-Automatic transmission models will most likely need gone through

-Gutless without turning up the VE injection pump

-Interiors rattle apart

Price Range: $500 to $5,000

1994-1998 2500 & 3500

This is the truck that put Dodge back on the map in 1994. The all-new Ram body style did most of it, but the 5.9L Cummins was there to make sure it delivered. As far as performance potential goes, it doesn’t get any better than the mechanical P7100 equipped versions of the 12-valve 5.9L Cummins. They’re simple, rock-solid reliable, and can easily tick off a half a million miles if properly maintained. With this body style (and particularly this engine) being so highly sought after, you can expect to pay a pretty penny for these 20-year-old Rams.

Engine: 5.9L Cummins with Bosch P7100 (P-pump) injection pump

Transmission(s): 47RH 4-speed automatic (’94-‘95), NV4500 5-speed manual (’94-‘98), 47RE 4-speed automatic (’96-‘98)

Best Year(s): 1996-1998 with the NV4500 5-speed manual and 215hp P7100 injection pump (the most sought after P-pump offered from the factory)

Pros:

-Mechanical injection, very simple engine

-Bosch P7100 injection pump

-Cummins B series industrial brawn and rock solid reliability

-Great low-end grunt

Cons:

-Killer Dowel Pin (only major mechanical problem, but is relatively easy to fixed)

-Automatic transmissions fail prematurely with any added power

-Interiors wear out

-Rust issues (even on cleaner trucks, check the bottoms of the doors)

-No 4-door models offered

-Quad cab models did not have opening/suicide rear doors until early ’98 models

Price Range: $2,000 to $10,000

1998.5-2002 2500 & 3500

The later second-generation Rams featured a few updates over ’94-’98 versions, including opening rear doors on Quad Cab models, slight cosmetic changes, and the addition of a 24-valve 5.9L Cummins under the hood. However, the electronically controlled Bosch VP44 injection pump would prove, over time, to be a major weak link. Oftentimes, the factory lift pump fails, starving the VP44 of fuel, which ends up taking it out as well. On the cataclysmic front, ’99-’02 models equipped with 53 blocks (“53” cast into the driver side of the block) are known to crack over time. Overall, while this generation Ram has a few shortcomings, they are workhorses, can pull anything, and get great mileage.

Engine: 5.9L Cummins with Bosch VP44 injection pump

Transmission(s): 47RE 4-speed automatic (’98.5-‘02), NV4500 5-speed manual (’98.5-‘02), NV5600 6-speed manual (’01-’02 H.O. models)

Best Year(s): Any model year with a manual transmission but without a 53 block

Pros:

-Injector, turbo, and programmer upgrades can get these trucks into the 450-500hp range

-Quad cabs do have opening rear doors

-Extreme low-end torque, great for pulling trailers

-High output ’01-’02 models got a 10hp, 45 lb-ft bump and came with a 6-speed manual

Cons:

-VP44 is known to die every 150,000 miles or so (usually from a failed lift pump)

-Plan to replace the VP44 pump shortly after purchasing a high-miler

-Similar interior and rust issues as ’94-’98 trucks

-Automatic transmission fails prematurely with added power

-53 blocks are known to crack

Price Range: $4,000 to $14,000

2003-2007 2500 & 3500

High points abound in the ’03-’07 Rams. For starters, the common-rail injection system added horsepower and torque to the 5.9L Cummins’ repertoire while also making its operation much quieter. The trucks themselves are roomier, with true Crew Cab configurations finally becoming available, not to mention the spacious Mega Cab models that debuted in 2006. They also feature vastly updated interiors, a more comfortable ride, and possess improved towing manners over ’94-’02 Rams. Their two primary drawbacks are injection system and transmission related. The common-rail system’s components are expensive to replace and usually don’t make it much past the 200,000-mile mark, so if you plan to buy a high-mile ’03-’07 truck, expect to replace the injectors and CP3 pump. On the transmission side, while plug-and-play style programmers can add impressive power, automatic versions are once again not up to the task of handling it.

Engine: 5.9L Cummins with Bosch common-rail injection system

Transmission(s): 47RE 4-speed automatic (‘03), NV5600 6-speed manual (’03-‘05), 48RE 4-speed automatic (’04-‘07), G56 6-speed manual (’05.5-‘07)

Best Year(s): 2006-2007 (these are the most sought after years, but they also have the best factory configuration options and aftermarket support)

Pros:

-Common-rail injection is easy to make extra power with and runs quieter

-450-500hp is possible with a hot programmer

-True crew cab models were finally offered, plus the roomy Mega Cab models

-Known to be very reliable, even at higher horsepower levels

-Ride comfort and towing manners are improved over ’94-’02 models

-The last Cummins offered which was free of emissions-control devices

Cons:

-Injection system components are expensive to replace

-Stuck injector or high timing programmers can melt pistons in short order

-Automatic transmissions are a major weak link with any significant amount of added power

-G56 6-speed manual gearbox fails at higher horsepower/torque levels

Price Range: $11,000 to $25,000

2007.5-2016 2500 & 3500

Looking at the ’07.5-newer Rams, it’s easy to see why they’re so popular for towing, hauling, commuting, and even for family vehicles. As for powertrain, a larger, 6.7L Cummins sits under the hood and churns out more horsepower and torque in stock form than the 5.9L. Use of a variable geometry turbocharger gives these trucks great responsiveness and drivability, and an integrated exhaust brake makes them the ultimate pickup for towing (in our opinion). This generation of Ram trucks debuted the 68RFE 6-speed automatic transmission, ushering them into the modern age. The ’07.5 model also brought with it several emissions-control devices (exhaust gas recirculation, diesel oxidation catalyst, and diesel particulate filter), which can become problematic at higher miles.

Engine: 6.7L Cummins with Bosch common-rail injection system

Transmission(s): 68RFE 6-speed automatic (’07.5-‘16), G56 6-speed manual (’07.5-‘16), Aisin 6-speed automatic (’13-‘16)

Best Year(s): 2011-newer due to improved ride quality (hydraulic body mounts)

Pros:

-Bigger engine displacement yields more horsepower and torque out of the box than the 5.9L

-6-speed automatic transmission option

-Variable geometry turbo with integrated exhaust brake makes them towing machines

-Integrated brake controller

-Towing manners are much improved over ’03-’07 models, especially on ’11-newer trucks

Cons:

-Emissions equipment can fail prematurely and reduce fuel economy when compared to 5.9L predecessor

-Head gaskets pop more frequently (due to higher cylinder pressure and more torque than the 5.9L)

-68RFE 6-speed automatic will not handle much more than 450-rwhp

Price Range: $13,000 to $55,000

Think a Ford Power Stroke is a better fit? Click here for the buyer's guide.

What about GM's Duramax? Click here to get the complete rundown.

The Toyota headquarters might be on its way to Texas, but the heart of the Toyota community still beats strong in Southern California. For the past 21 years, Toyota, Lexus and Scion owners have brought out the best to Long Beach, CA for the annual All Toyotafest. A lot of praise must go to the people at the Toyota Owners and Restorers Club (TORC) for creating the perfect atmosphere for all Toyota enthusiasts.

While all 450 entrants were each a sight to see, here's a quick rundown of our Top 21 from the 21st All Toyotafest:

Toyota Century

The epitome of Japanese luxury. You can't even tell this Century is half a century old; Toyotafest is one of the few places to find pristine classics.

Toyota Crown

Speaking of pristine, you can never go wrong with any of Janet Fujimoto's builds. This piece of royalty isn't just pretty to look at, it's also fun to drive with its 2JZ engine swap.

2000GT

Straight from the vault, the ultra rare 2000GT is valued at over a million dollars!

AE86

One of the most iconic Japanese classic cars, the fifth generation Corolla has been popularized by many names, like AE86 or Hachi-Roku, and has been featured in just about everything from anime to clothing to television.

Sprinter Trueno

Before the AE86 came the TE37, or the Sprinter Trueno, a variation of the Corolla from the '70s.

Supra MK3

Jill Stonawski is keeping it all Toyota with her TRD'd out Supra, Toyota's other famous car.

"2 Jay-Z" Supra MK3

If you don't get the reference, Jordan Borchansky just wanted to make sure you're clearly aware his Supra is running a "2 Jay-Z" (2JZ) engine.

Bosozoku Celica

The Japanese are known for some wild trends and Oscar Salazar has transformed his Celica into the ultimate glitter-bombed bosozoku build.

Scion DJ xB

Old school Scion enthusiast and founder of Scion Evolution, Nilo Miranda was spinning the 1s and 2s on this custom DJ xB built by Five Axis. Scion has always been known to express their creativity through their builds, it's crazy to think that the brand is nearing its end.

Scion xB Pickup Truck & Trailer

Wild builds don't just stop at the corporate level, Scion enthusiasts are just as crazy. This owner didn't just do a pickup truck conversion, they got another xB and turned it into a trailer!

RS*R Scion FR-S

JDM meets USDM when RS*R dropped a Ford Racing Coyote V8 engine into this FR-S. You can read more about it from our Driving Line magazine feature. 

Scion FR-S

Wide body kit with a Jackson Racing turbocharger, Phil Chien's FR-S is a perfect example of a standard modern day Scion build.

Scion "86 Vantage"

Sandy Lirag, founder of OEM Audio+, instantly knew he wanted the 86 Vantage kit when he saw it during a trip to Japan and brought the first kit stateside. This kit transforms the popular Japanese sports car by blending it with European styling cues. Stay tuned for a full feature on this first soon.

Mode Parfume Prius "Nemo"

Riding clean, literally because it's a Prius. Marshall Lum brought the aloha spirit to Southern California. In case you missed it, it's got wide body Mode Parfume kit and AirREX air suspension kit. If you're in the SoCal, you better try to find Nemo soon before it heads back to Hawaii.

Rocket Bunny Lexus RC F

Keeping it orange and wide, Lexus featured their race inspired Rocket Bunny RC F.

Fatlace Lexus GS

Constantly breaking the Internet, Daniel "Yogi" Kruthanooch is back at it again with some new modifications. If you're keeping up with the Kruthanooch, he's changed up the GS with a Mode Parfume duckbill and Leon Hardiritt Gemüt wheels wrapped in Nitto Tire INVOs.

Toyota Sienna

There's no better way to test out Cusco USA's new coilovers for the Toyota Sienna than a drive down from Northern California. Whether Cary Inayoshi is rolling to a car show or taking his twin babies out for lunch, this swagger wagon is perfect for any situation. Maybe even a track day?

Back to the Future Tacoma

When cosplay meets car shows, these BTTF-themed Tacomas got their two coats of wax and are ready for a day at the lake, or in this case the Queensway Bay.

Land Cruiser

Exclusive Japanese cars aren't the only ones being imported, classic SUVs get some love too. If you're looking to import a timeless classic like this clean '90s right-hand drive Land Cruiser, Utilitas has you covered!

Land Cruiser LWB Pickup

The "Best Honda" award goes this Land Cruiser pickup hauling a retro Honda CB100 bike.

Cabe's Toyota Stout 1900

Toyota reliability doesn't happen without some scheduled maintenance and Cabe Toyota has been one of the best in the business in taking care of your Toyota.

Did you attend Toyotafest? What were your favorites from the show, let us know in the comments below!

In the world of modern muscle cars, much of the current exercise concerns large-scale reproductions. Challenger, Charger, Mustang and Camaro have all been exciting (and wildly successful) re-creations by America’s biggest automakers. But when looking at the history of American Muscle, a few models are missing in the modern era - in fact many of us probably have a particular favorite model in mind.

So when a little company from Florida comes out of nowhere selling a new version of a quintessential American muscle car, it takes us back a little. Who do they think they are? And when, year by year, they come back with a few more and a particularly interesting 80-year-old spokesperson, it really makes us do a double take. This has got to be a joke.

Wrong. This is the Trans Am.

At this point, any rational car person may stop and point out that the math doesn’t quite add up. Wait, wasn’t the Trans Am a version of the Pontiac Firebird? . . . Didn’t Pontiac go out of business?

The answers to these questions are “yes” and “yes, but not entirely.” Yes, Pontiac was phased out of the General Motors line up by the end of 2010. However, in 2011, a company out of Florida bought the rights to the Trans Am name and called themselves – you guessed it – Trans Am Worldwide. From an enthusiast’s point of view, these guys – Tod and Scott Warmack, Jim Dowling and Kevin Morgan – are the real deal. Self-professed Trans Am freaks, they claim that amongst the four of them, they’ve owned (and worked on) 50 of the original Pontiac vehicles, starting with the 1977 editions.

So who better to recreate this iconic vehicle? 

This year, Trans Am Worldwide came to NYIAS with this big announcement: They would be creating 77 “Bandit Edition” vehicles, signed and endorsed by none other than Burt Reynolds himself.

Now, if you’re under the age of 40, you may be thinking to yourself: That dude is old. He’s not cool. He’s got nothing to do with cars.

Let me remind you that both Mario Andretti and Clint Eastwood are hovering around the 80-year mark. Clearly, coolness has no expiration date.

So what makes Burt Reynolds so important to the evolution of this car? Well, he was the original “Bandit” in Smokey and the Bandit– a film that raised Pontiac’s stock value by 70 percent after its release. Let’s just say, it was a pretty successful movie. The Trans Am went on to be featured in two more “Bandit” movies, Rocky II and of course, the television series Knight Rider– KITT was also a modified Firebird Trans Am.

The company claims that the Bandit Trans Am will be just as badass as Burt Reynolds was in 1977. In Mr. Reynolds’ own words: “It was hot in every way… a love story.”

In honor of the year of the film’s release, only 77 Bandit Editions will be produced. The new Bandit has 840 bhp, two tone leather seats, snowflake wheels and vintage-looking white letter tires. The interior also features the exclusive Bandit logo, capturing the spirit of both the film itself and arguably America’s hottest 80-year-old.

All I know is that grandpa definitely has me convinced – now toss me the keys!

Additional photos courtesy of Trans Am Worldwide.