Every era of hot rodding and tuning had its usual suspects, those go-to suspension parts, body mods and drivetrain setups that came to define the spirit of the time. Whether it was a question of availability, cost, or technology that pushed performance forward, you can take a snapshot of a particular decade and be reasonably confident that the majority of the cars you'll come across will feature very similar philosophies behind their customized components.

The same is true, of course, for engine swaps. Certain motors were known to dominate the street for years at a stretch, and as a result they became popular options for anyone looking to a quick path to power. The reasons for their popularity are varied, and speak directly to the period in which they had their glory days, with old favorites eventually giving way to new champions in a constant cycle of upgrades.

Here's a quick look at some of the most popular engine swaps in history, along with how and why they achieved success.

1. Small block Chevrolet V8

In 1955 Chevrolet introduced the original 265 cubic inch version of its small block V8 architecture and changed the hot rod game forever. The SBC (small block Chevy) was simple in its design, which made it easy to install and even easier to modify for performance gains. It was also relatively cheap to buy, especially when General Motors began churning out vast quantities of the motor in a variety of different displacements and configurations.

Aftermarket support for the SBC would swell throughout the 60s and 70s, and by the 1980s junkyards were so full of these engines that they became the de facto choice for hot rudders seeking to wake up almost any given platform. There's no question that the small block Chevrolet would enjoy nearly three decades of ruling the domestic hot rod roost, challenged only by yet another GM V8 family towards the end of the 1990s.

2. Honda B-Series VTEC

In the early 2000s, popping the hood on any serious Honda tuner's ride would reveal, almost without fail, a B-series four-cylinder. The automaker's variable-valve timing heads, which would deliver maximum power as the motor screamed towards redline, were a revelation for the import tuning crowd, having first reached American shores in the early 90s in the form of the Acura Integra GS-R. By the end of the decade the B-series had spread to the Del Sol and the Civic Si, and of course the Integra Type R, and eventually versions of VTEC that had originally been JDM-only began trickling across the Pacific.

In addition to their new technology, the B-series engines were also relatively affordable, had massive third-part parts availability, and offered a big power bump for early Honda chassis even in stock form. Built well, they could reliably generate over 400 horsepower from less than two liters of displacement, with 1,000 horsepower tunes found in the glossy pages of magazines shocking more traditional muscle machines on the street.

3. Volkswagen 1.8 R4 20VT

You can consider Volkswagen's 1.8-liter, turbocharged four-cylinder engine, introduced in the early 1990s, to be the German equivalent of the small block Chevy. VW stuffed the little snail-spun 4-banger into almost every possible platform, and variations on this motor—at least spiritually, in terms of size and power—can still be found in modern Volkswagen showrooms.

The ubiquity of the 1.8T meant that owners of base-spec VWs could easily step up and install it when seeking more power, and with a cast-iron block, the R4 could climb mightily from its 150 horse roots to generate hundreds more for not much money. In the early 2000s it was the 1.8T that would kick off the 'chip tune' phenomenon where owners began hacking their ECUs for significant gains in boost and output from relatively stock mechanical setups. If you were serious about performance and a Volkswagen fan at the turn of the Millennium, you were swapping in a 1.8T.

4. Subaru EJ207

Do you own a Subaru Impreza? Seeking a quick and easy swap? The current standard is the EJ207, which is the 2.0-liter turbocharged Japanese-market STI powertrain that was never sold in North America (where the 2.5-liter EJ25 was used instead).

Famed for being more tolerant of higher boost, the EJ207 was offered in three distinct flavors: V7, V8, and V9—dating all the way back to 2002. Largely a drop-and-go swap for the Impreza, it even became a popular choice for WRX owners seeking an upgrade over the original EJ205. Chopped out of their original hosts in Japan and shipped across the ocean in varying degrees of completeness, a V7 swap has become a rite of passage for any GC8 owner seeking to build the car that Americans were denied, or a GD fan tired of dealing with EJ25 issues.

5. General Motors LS V8

Although the SBC is still alive and kicking, there's no question that GM's LS family of V8 engines has taken over the current engine swap zeitgeist. The reasons are largely similar: there are hundreds of thousands of these motors out there, thanks to their use in a number of best-selling pickup trucks, and their modern yet simple design allows them to respond well to aftermarket modifications without sacrificing reliability.

A third factor that has made the LS the reigning V8 swap of its day? Form factor. Unlike the overhead cam engines built by Chrysler and Ford, the LS retains a pushrod design that keeps it relatively compact. This in turn makes it much easier to fit into tighter engine bays, and leaves space for power-adders like turbochargers, superchargers and all of their associated plumbing.

Curious about the thought process behind a cross-platform engine swap? Check out this Ford Coyote versus Chevy LS overview.

As speculation and excitement about the upcoming 2020 Ford Bronco reaches fever pitch, it's easy to forget that this isn't the first time Ford has considered reviving the Bronco as a boxy, retro-styled 4x4 machine. And as we anxiously await and speculate on the details of the new Bronco, this 15-year old concept machine could potentially provide some additional clues.

The story of this take on a reborn Bronco goes back to 2004 at that year's North American International Auto Show. Traveling back in time and a decade in half, you'll find that Ford was all in on retro style. Not only was its unabashedly throwback Ford GT getting tons of attention, the dramatically re-designed and heritage inspired 2005 Mustang was about to hit the market as well.

With the 2004 Bronco Concept, the idea was to take that same retro flavor and apply it to Ford's SUV line, reviving the popular 4x4 that was last sold in 1996. As you can clearly see from the shape, the 2004 Bronco was heavily inspired by the iconic first generation model of the '60s and '70s.

As with the Ford GT of the same era, the Bronco Concept fully embraced the '60s style, not just in its exterior styling but also in its attractive and minimalist interior and instrumentation. Drawing heavily from the blue collar, yet fashionable appeal of the first gen Bronco, it captured the same things which have made original Broncos extremely popular among builders and restorers today.

Going back to the pre-EcoBoost era you may have expected this version of the Bronco to be powered by one of the modular V8 engines from Ford's fullsize trucks, but the 2004 Bronco Concept was actually powered by a European market 2.0 turbodiesel engine.

Not only did the turbodiesel feature an overboost function, it also had a nitrous oxide system for an even larger power boost. The transmission was a six-speed PowerShift dual clutch automatic and its "intelligent" 4x4 system featured a number of once high tech features that are commonplace 15 years later.

Other cool elements of the concept included large round headlamps, an integrated winch in the front bumper and a removable rear roof section just as the original Bronco had. Whether things like that could have ever been approved for production is another question altogether.

While most old concept cars end up looking quite dated, especially the ones that never made it to production—that's not really the case with the 2004 Bronco Concept. Thanks to its "ageless" retro influence it looks almost as fresh today as it did 15 years ago. This is not unlike the aforementioned mid 2000s Ford GT which still looks great today as well.

As we know now, this version of the Bronco never became a reality with any number of factors responsible for Ford's decision including the end of the first SUV boom, rising fuel prices and the economic recession of the late 2000s.

But it seems that the idea itself never died, and a fully confirmed Bronco will be on sale and available within the next year. How similar the 2020 Bronco is to this 2004 concept vehicle remains to be seen, but at the very least it's an interesting "what if" and and relevant food note to the history of the beloved Bronco nameplate.

Sticking with the new Bronco, don't forget to check out our story on some of the things to expect from the new 2020 version when it arrives.

With the current Toyota 86 and Subaru BRZ getting quite old, there's been a lot of discussion about whether Toyota and Subaru would follow up the first generation car with a new second gen model, and what that car might look like. We know now that there will indeed be a second generation version of the rear-drive sports car as both companies recently confirmed.

The news came as part of an official announcement that Toyota is upping its existing stake in Subaru to 20% and with that increase will naturally come increased collaboration between the two Japanese automakers.

Not surprisingly the agreement will see Toyota using Subaru's AWD know-how and Subaru implementing more of Toyota's battery electric technology, but for enthusiasts the best news that the announcement also confirmed "Joint development of the next-generation Toyota 86 and Subaru BRZ" as part of the two companies' business plans.

Even before this news was confirmed, rumors about the next gen 86 and BRZ have been coming in faster—including the possibility that the new cars may get a displacement bump to 2.4 liters while staying naturally aspirated.

At this point though, nothing has been confirmed but there's even a chance that we may see a concept or prototype of the new cars during next month's Tokyo Motor Show. It's been hinted that development is already well under way, so hopefully production won't be too far off from there.

Whenever we end up catching a glimpse of the new car(s), it's great to know that even in age of SUV dominance and electrification that Toyota and Subaru are committed to keeping niche market enthusiast vehicles like the 86 and BRZ alive. Here's hoping we find out more soon.

Speaking of other companies Toyota has partnered with recently, you can check out Mazda's announcement of a new rotary engine.

One of the biggest costs of building or restoring a car is paint. Even a simple base coat/clear coat can be anywhere between $3,000-7,000 dollars in the Midwest. In Arizona, the prices range from $3,000-8,000. The more exotic or "custom" the higher the price. For example: a chameleon fade to black with House of Kolor brand paint can easily exceed $10,000. If you happen to live on the coasts, the cost can easily double into the $8000-$16000 range. And that begs the question: why is it so expensive to paint a car?

Labor Rates

One of the biggest factors affecting cost is the overall labor rate. The labor rate is not just the hourly wage of the painter, it factors in things such as business overhead (cost of shop rent, utilities, insurance, etc.). This cost varies significantly by location. The west coast has a higher labor rate cost compared to other states because of higher cost of living, higher utilities and rent, plus the higher cost to dispose of prep and paint waste. It also varies based on rural vs. urban, where urban shops tend to cost more.

Training is also a big cost-adder. The new waterborne paints require a different technique, curing conditions and prep. They tend to be more prone to fisheye and under-curing due to moisture sensitivity. And, cars today use more exotic materials than in the past. Materials like carbon fiber, certain plastics and multi-stage finishes require more knowledge to paint properly than steel and aluminum. All of this adds up to a labor force that must have the correct skill set and training—which also means higher costs.

Environmental Impact

The past few years has seen a dramatic shift in the environmental costs of paint and body work. Urethanes have been a staple for decades, but now waterborne paints are coming to the fore because they have less VOCs (volatile organic compounds). But waterborne paints tend to cost more and are a bit harder to work with. California has some of the strictest environmental codes in the US, and there is a cost associated to that. However, this topic is about to become a moot point as most states are adopting similar rules which help protect the environment from some of the more toxic aspects of paint and body. Most dealerships have already adopted these regulations as have a vast amount of chain/franchised body shops. The environmental laws proposed in the Midwest mimic the ones in California and are slowly making their way through legislation. Each state is adopting them at their own pace, but they are coming.

Waste disposal costs have risen over the years. Most of the paint wastes are eventually incinerated in a disposal facility. Companies such as Safety Kleen have programs to help shops take care of their waste. Costs vary based on frequency of pick-ups and amount per pick-up. Included in the fees, which range from $100 per pickup to $2000, includes a "recovery fee." This fee includes a significant fuel surcharge based on location, insurance, security and other administration fees.

In the Midwest, most dealerships and chain body shops are using waterborne paints as a standard, matching what is happening on the coasts. But some of the smaller, rural shops have a bit more flexibility for the time being.

Materials

Material costs have risen significantly over the past decade. This is in part due to VOC regulations, and also in the production costs of the paints themselves. Pearls, flips, glass, flakes all have become more common but that also adds a significant cost to the paint. For example, a simple white is about $70 per quart while a pearl white is about $160.  While waterborne paints are only slightly more expensive than solvent based, and waterborne paints tend to require a more controlled paint booth, driers, etc. which do increase cost.  Manufacturers have already switched over to California-compliant products. House of Kolor, Akzo Nobel and DuPont have been the leaders in this change. This means that costs are starting to even out across the country. So, if you’re looking for a deal on a paintjob, you’re running out of time.

Are waterbornes better quality than solvents? That depends on who you ask and what type of paint job is required. I have used both. For simple 1 or 2 stage paints with minimal pearls I use waterborne paints. Anything with flakes, heavy pearls, or multi-stage finishes I use solvent based paints. Some painters like waterbornes, but custom painters and airbrush artists tend to use more solvent based paints because of the quick dry times and color fastness (how resilient they are to fading). Waterborne paints tend to be a bit thicker build so jobs that require a lot of taping might take more coats of clear to bury the lines.

Equipment is the same price regardless of where you are. But note that good paint guns such as Iwata Supernovas can be almost $800 each and shops tend to have dozens of quality guns. Respirators, air dryers, etc all add up quickly.

Sweat Discounts

If you have the patience and are handy, you can save up to 50% by prepping the car yourself. This is because most of the labor in a paint job is in the prep.  By pulling the trim, glass, weather strip, handles, etc., and sand the car down so the paint shop can just clean it and shoot it.

There are a lot of books and websites that walk through the process and the body shop you are talking it to will usually offer advice. Not many shops are cool with you bringing in your own paints as they can't be held liable for the finish. But, if you find a shop that allows you to supply materials, sites like www.TCPglobal.com are a great resource.

Out-of-State Painting

With the costs of painting on the coasts so high, does it make sense to send the car to a state where the labor rates are less? Yes and no. If you are shipping within a few hundred miles, then it probably does make sense to do it. But if you are shipping a car to the Midwest from California, then no, because the cost of shipping a car round trip in a hauler like Pilot or Reliant can be around $5000. But there are exceptions: if you are after a wild custom paint job where the labor costs are going to be over $10k, then it might make sense for you. 

General Paint Advice

Paint and body work is more art than science and good quality commands a higher price. It is in your best interest to really, really do your homework on what shop to partner with. Go to car shows and ask owners about who did their paint and how the process went. Ask how long the person working on your project has been painting, and if they have worked on anything similar to your project. If your project is a show car, then the painter should be experienced in show car quality finishes. Ask what paint systems they are using and how long they have used it. Ask about warranty. Ask about care and maintenance (and follow those guidelines to the letter). Paint work is a decision not to be taken lightly and each project is different, so don't rush the homework process.

Click here for some good advice on how to remove scratches from your car's paint.

It’s been 56 years since the Clean Air Act was passed, but the last half of those years have been the busiest for diesel engines. Beginning in 1991, more stringent federal emission standards were introduced to get engine manufacturers to cut down on particulate matter (PM). By 1994, a further 60-percent reduction in PM was made mandatory. Then in 1998, stricter limits on nitrogen oxides (NOx) were imposed, with maximum limits set to gradually tighten up. The next crackdown on NOx emissions came in 2004, prompting Ford to debut its Navistar-built 6.0L Power Stroke with exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) and GM to add EGR to the 6.6L Duramax.

As of January 1, 2007, PM emission limits were lowered once more, this time to 0.01 g/bhp-hr—a 96-percent reduction from the 1991 standard. At the same time, manufacturers had to meet a NOx level that was 90-percent lower than the standard that had just taken effect in 2004, although it didn’t take effect immediately. Manufacturers were allowed to use the period from 2007 to 2010 as a phase-in period for the new, extremely stringent NOx standard. As a result, Ford and GM both waited until 2010 to meet the standard, which required the use of selective catalytic reduction (SCR), and that Ford and GM debuted on the new 6.7L Power Stroke and LML Duramax (launched as 2011 models).

To meet the ever-increasing regulations mentioned above, a plethora of pollution-combatting technology has been employed. In the early days (1990s), changing piston designs, altering injector spray angle or switching to electronically controlled injection systems helped curb a lot of emissions, but not all of them. As a result, higher injection pressures and especially high-pressure common-rail systems were turned to in order to meet PM requirements. Then came the aforementioned EGR systems, which helped drop NOx levels. Further PM and NOx-fighting technologies such as the diesel oxidation catalyst (DOC), diesel particulate filter (DPF), active and passive regeneration, selective catalytic reduction (SCR) and diesel exhaust fluid (DEF) were soon to follow.

Confused by all the fancy acronyms? Scroll down to find exactly what they mean and how they function.

Particulate Matter (PM)

The first pollutant on the EPA’s radar was particulate matter (PM). In a diesel engine, PM is the result of unburned fuel, as in fuel that isn’t completely used during the combustion process and is allowed leave the cylinder through the exhaust valves, flow through the exhaust system and out the tail pipe in the form of black smoke. Mechanical (i.e. older) fuel systems with less precise injection events occurring in-cylinder were notorious for producing PM. PM itself is a complex makeup of sulphates, carcinogenic compounds, elemental carbon and heavy metals.

Nitrogen Oxides (NOx)

Nitrogen oxides (NOx) are a direct result of the high operating temperatures diesels are capable of and are a primary ingredient in smog. They form when nitrogen is released during combustion and conjoined with oxygen. Various oxides of nitrogen are produced when extreme in-cylinder heat is present, namely nitrogen dioxide and nitric oxide, which means a fine balance between NOx (achieved with lower in-cylinder temps) and PM (achieved with complete combustion/high in-cylinder temps) is paramount if a modern diesel engine is to keep both pollutants at reasonable levels.

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR)

In the early 2000s, PM standards were met through the use of electronically controlled injection systems and higher in-cylinder injection pressures. However, the higher combustion temperatures resulting from controlling PM are counteractive to controlling NOx. To cool in-cylinder combustion temps and reduce NOx, high-pressure loop exhaust gas recirculation quickly became the norm. Being that EGR gases are almost completely depleted of all oxygen content, the engine is denied the oxygen atoms required to facilitate the development of NOx.

EGR Valve

The component responsible for controlling the flow rate of exhaust gases destined to reenter the intake stream is the EGR valve. There are two types of EGR valves, cold-side and hot-side, and the type of activation varies from pneumatically to hydraulically to electrically (the latter being most common today). Cold-side EGR valves direct exhaust gases into the intake after they’ve left the EGR cooler(s). A hot-side EGR valve performs its flow duties before the EGR cooler(s). Use of a hot-side EGR valve is believed to help cut down on the kind of soot and grime buildup that leads to valve failure (i.e. sticking).

EGR Cooler

With exhaust gas temperatures exceeding 1,200 degrees F in most engine applications, the portion of exhaust gases being routed back to the intake tract have to be cooled. The job of dropping these temperatures is handled by the EGR cooler. An air-to-liquid heat exchanger, the EGR cooler uses circulated engine coolant to lower the temperature of the exhaust gases passing through it. On engines such as the 6.4L Power Stroke and 6.7L Power Stroke, there are two EGR coolers at work.

Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF)

When the federal government tightened the noose around PM emissions in 2007, not even the maximized efforts of high-pressure common-rail injection were efficient enough to meet the new standard. This led to the modern exhaust aftertreatment systems we know today. At the heart of the aftertreatment system is the wall-flow style catalyst known as the diesel particulate filter (DPF). Its primary function is to keep PM from exiting the tailpipe by storing it. The soot collected by the DPF periodically triggers a regeneration cycle (more on that below), which involves the combination of diesel fuel and exhaust gases within the diesel oxidation catalyst (DOC) transforming the soot into a fine ash. While DPF’s have proven very effective, they do require occasional cleaning and eventual replacement.

Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC)

In modern diesel exhaust aftertreatment systems, the DOC’s job is to provide the extreme heat that’s necessary to convert soot accumulation into the fine ash that remains trapped in the DPF. By oxidizing diesel fuel supplied to it from the engine, the DOC provides the means of increasing DPF temperature, which effectively incinerates the soot buildup within the DPF, breaking the soot down into the finer, noncombustible particles (i.e. ash) that remain.

DPF Regeneration

At a predetermined level of soot accumulation (usually triggered by pressure differential across the DPF), the DPF regeneration process is initiated to convert soot into ash. During this active regeneration cycle, fuel is introduced into the DOC. The diesel fuel comes by way of excess fuel being injected on the engine’s exhaust stroke (example: ’08-’10 6.4L Power Stroke) or through a downstream ninth fuel injector (example shown above: ’11-’16 LML Duramax). During regeneration, the combination of fuel being introduced to the DOC and retarded injection timing taking place in-cylinder causes exhaust gas temperature to climb higher than 1,000 degrees F.

Selective Catalytic Reduction (SCR)           

Going beyond what EGR systems are capable of, SCR has become the most effective technology in getting NOx levels low enough to meet the current, stringent standard. The NOx problem that can’t be solved in-cylinder is dealt with in the exhaust aftertreatment system by injecting urea-based diesel exhaust fluid (DEF) upstream of an SCR catalyst. During this process, harmful NOx is chemically converted in harmless nitrogen.

Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF)

Although it must be carefully blended, the chemical makeup of DEF is pretty simple: 32.5-percent high purity urea and 67.5-percent deionized water. Urea itself is a nitrogenous compound that turns to ammonia when exposed to heat. Ammonia, along with the SCR catalyst, is paramount in converting NOx into nitrogen. The upside to SCR is that a more efficient combustion process can be employed in-cylinder without the NOx produced as a result of it being a problem or overtaxing the EGR system. SCR’s downside is further complexity within the diesel exhaust aftertreatment system and the fact that DEF freezes before diesel fuel does. The latter is the reason behind all SCR systems featuring DEF heaters, as well as DEF’s chemical makeup of exactly 32.5-percent urea (a ratio that provides the lowest possible freeze point of 12 degrees F).

Variable Geometry Turbocharger (VGT)

Believe it or not, VGT’s are a necessary part of curbing both PM and NOx emissions. By acting like a smaller, more restrictive turbo at low rpm, its transient response is unmatched by any other type of turbo. This responsiveness means that the engine is kept in the meat of its power band, where fuel is more efficiently burned and instances of being “under the charger” (where a puff of smoke leaves the tail pipe) are eliminated. As it pertains to the EGR system, the VGT assures that positive pressure exists between the exhaust and intake manifold(s) so that sufficient EGR flow is available when it’s required.

Curious about the ins and outs of your EGR system? Find out all the dirty details here.

Building a track car can be a daunting task. I know—I’ve been in that process for well over a decade, now (including all the years my project DC2 has been on jackstands). Should you go all-out and build it to its full potential right off the bat? Or should you just “run what you brung,” and upgrade it as you go, hoping that it’ll all go right along the way? 

It’s a dilemma that’s as old as the concept of a project car itself (probably older), and if there’s anyone qualified to offer proper guidance, it’s someone who’s gone through the process themselves. Someone who’s gone on to become a driving instructor, or maybe someone starting off as an engineer, with a respect for detail and process. Fortunately for us, AJ Jaquias—builder and driver of this track-bred S2000—is all of those things.

The Early Years

AJ has been into cars as far back as he can remember, having grown up in the garage and at the drag strip with a dad who had a severe appreciation for muscle cars. AJ’s first car was a ‘70s Camaro that his grandma bought new, handed down to his aunt, who then handed it down to his dad and then to him (now that’s a cool family).

Street and strip straight-line racing was his passion along side mechanical engineering in AJ’s younger years, which eventually led to exploring track racing, when some tech school friends convinced him that his daily-driven DC2 would be a fun machine for it.  

Before he knew it, AJ was spending more and more time and money prepping the DC2 for track duty, and all the while kept noticing an S2000 driver belting out consistently fast laps, and driving to and from the track. “I asked him what sort of modifications were done to the car, and what his track prep consisted of,” recalls AJ. “He replied, ‘Nothing, really. I just put gas in it and go.’” A RWD car that was light and nimble, and consistently fast and reliable around a racetrack? AJ was hooked.

Recent History

Once AJ found a smokin’ deal on a very gently used S2000 at a dealership in 2014, he immediately got to work enhancing it for track duty. Or trying to, at least. “I bought all the wrong stuff,” he laughs. “Coilovers that were too stiff, the wrong tires and it had just a regular road-car alignment.”

His first few trips to the track with the car might’ve been his last, had it not been for a chance encounter with some experienced S2000 and FWD Honda track-racing authorities—namely Robert Choo, former Turbo & High-Tech Performance magazine editor and proprietor of suspension/alignment specialists Chewerks in City of Industry, CA. As AJ learned, many aggressive modifications work well as part of an aggressive build, but can actually be a hindrance on their own.

That overly stiff suspension, for example, would work best with increased downforce from a complete aero package (which he was only starting to piece together), and big traction from fat and limiting slicks. And that would all work best with big engine power and eye-popping braking, all from an unforgiving build that would only reach its full potential when driven at a precarious limit by a seasoned racing driver. As Robert and his crew have proven time and again, the secret to going fast is sometimes starting from square one, with a less aggressive build.

Power to the Pavement

So, AJ decided to pare things down. But just a bit. He hocked that stiff suspension for something a bit softer, but with higher-quality valving and proven performance: KW Variant III coilovers, all around. Rather than opt for those Unlimited-class slicks, he went with a better solution: DOT-approved, ultra-sticky Nitto NT01s, sized 255/40-17. He also switched to a thicker Eibach anti-roll bar up front, to help quell the S2000’s resultant tail-happy nature when sitting on a performance suspension and a square (as opposed to staggered) wheel setup.

Here’s where things get interesting. AJ’s wheels of choice were lightweight Enkei RPF1s, but he sized them wide: 17x10 inches, with a +38mm offset. His 255s fit with just a tiny bit of stretch, but he’d also have room to size up to 285-width rubber for extra traction. And his wide Down Force front fenders, and stretched and ASM-flared rear fenders, would likely accommodate even more rubber if future plans warranted it.

Nuts and Bolts

Spoon Sports front and rear subframe collars, and steering rack collars, eliminate some slop inherent in even the S2000’s precise underpinnings, while J’s Racing front camber joints, tie-rod ends, rear control arms and rear roll-center adjustments give a greater degree of adjustability in finding that ideal track alignment—something Robert and Chewerks have down to a science.

Do some searching online and you’ll find some contention surrounding the matter of if and when big brakes add measurable benefit to a track car. If your build is at stock levels of traction and power, chances are your factory brakes will provide ample stopping power. But if it needs to be brought down from high speed quickly, and if it’s got much more traction than stock, a larger, two-piece, vented brake kit may very well offer better braking performance, and faster and more consistent laps.

Fortunately, there’s no real reason notto upgrade to bigger brakes (provided they’ll fit within your wheels) so AJ upgraded to Essex AP Racing big brakes with Carbotech XP10 pads up front and XP8 pads in the rear, with Goodridge stainless lines and Motul fluid.

Which brings us to the subject of engine modifications. Now a firm believer that he’d rather learn the handling and braking limits of his car before upgrading power, AJ approached engine mods more from a point of view of efficiency and reliability than anything else.

Pop the Hood

Fun fact: when his S2000’s original engine let go, AJ replaced its bottom end with a factory-fresh block, straight from Honda.

Enhancing the engine's cooling abilities today are an aluminum Koyo radiator, HPS upper and lower hoses with Earl’s AN fittings, J’s Racing low-temperature thermostat, and Evans waterless coolant. Improving lubrication are a Moroso weld-in oil-pan baffle, Setrab oil cooler with fan, Mocal oil filter sandwich plate, J’s Racing oil filter stopper and lots of Moroso 300V engine oil. Remedying the effects of any lingering blow-by is a Radium oil catch can.

And since at least a modest increase in power is always more fun and conducive to faster lap times, AJ made some performance modifications here as well. Feeding the engine’s factory intake manifold is an Acura MDX throttle body and one of AJ’s own, hand-crafted, true dry-carbon-fiber intakes, with a custom rubber velocity stack. A custom HyTech header ushers exhaust gasses toward the ceramic-coated 70mm Berk test pipe and T1R stainless exhaust, and limiting the amount of heat that escapes into the surrounding engine bay is another AJ creation: a handcrafted, ultra-thin, custom composite heat shield.

Have a Seat

If those labels of torque specs and various other settings adoring the car’s engine bay didn’t convince you of AJ’s meticulous nature, his approach to the interior revision will.

For starters, there’s not much in there, aside from the necessities. AJ estimates he eliminated well over 100 lbs from the car’s weight by removing unessential creature comforts, sound deadening material, even excess wiring. There’s no dash, for goodness sake.

What there is, is the S2000’s factory digital instrument panel, a Defi ADVANCE ZD digital display; Sparco steering wheel with quick-release hub, a Sparco Halo seat, harnesses; and a color-matched and Hard Dog roll bar, lowered one inch to fit within the car’s Seibon carbon-fiber hard top. And that’s about it.

The Proof is in the Lap Times

With the magic touch of renowned Honda tuner Bisimoto on the car’s AEM Infinity ECU, the S2000 put down plenty of reliable power on good ‘ol 91 pump gas to keep AJ continuing to learn its limits, and to serve as an ideal platform for future modifications.

AJ has driven it to best lap times of 1:58.90 at Buttonwillow and consistent 1:25s around Streets of Willow, and he (and the data) are convinced there’s more time to be shed in the car’s current state.

“Honestly, it’s made me a much better driver than I ever would’ve realized,” AJ sums up. “Definitely more than if I would’ve overbuilt it from the start." His plan for the future? Take his time, enjoy the drive, find its limits and keep upgrading. Sounds like good advice to follow...for the day I finally get my DC2 off those jackstands. 

SPECS

If you love Hondas, you'll love seeing this S2000/Integra feature.

It took Jeep over 20 years to get back into the truck business, but we're sure glad they did. As the only midsize truck fit with solid front and rear axles, removable top and doors, and an electronic sway bar disconnect feature, the 2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon is the pickup many off-roaders have been waiting decades to build. While we will have an in-depth review of the all-new Gladiator platform coming to you soon, in this article, we cover five easy upgrades that add versatility and convenience without voiding the warranty.

1. Mopar Mats

Our first modification is a must no matter if you’re a mall crawlers or trail slayer. Yes, floor mats might not be the most exciting topic, but the Mopar mats are definitely worth mentioning. Built with molded insets for the drain plugs, the form fit mats are easy to clean and preserve your carpet for the long run. 

2. Keep It Covered

Having a family of four will quickly fill up the inside of the Gladiator cabin. So, to get a bit of extra storage, we opted for the Mopar Tonneau cover. The fabric cover is built with an over-the-rail design, creating a very effective weather-tight seal. For times we need to get a bit of extra bed room, we can easily roll it up and use the built-in straps to keep it in place. If we do find the need to remove it entirely, doing so only requires two bolts to be unfastened from the bed’s bulkhead.

3. Grapple Line

Maybe this biggest departure from stock is our new tire and wheel package. While the Rubicon edition comes with a 33-inch-tall tire from the factory, they look a bit lost in the massive wheelwells. We replaced the OE treads with a set of 35x12.50R17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. For a daily driven 4x4 that sees a mix of on-and off-road terrain, it’s hard to beat the Ridge Grappler. Our new knobbies were mounted on a 17x9 Patton series wheels from Centerline. These cast-aluminum wheels have 4.53 inches of backspacing, which sets the tire and wheel package a couple of inches outside of the fender.

This equates to a little bit of rubbing at full articulation on the inside of the wheelwell. Since this truck primarily sees mild off-road scenarios, it’s not enough of a worry to warrant modifying the fenders. Given that the Ridge Grapplers rest between that of an all-terrain and a mud-terrain radial, they are actually quieter than the M/Ts that came on this truck from the factory. In terms of power loss, the combination of the 4.10 gears and eight-speed automatic transmission has done a fine job of adapting to the larger treads.

4. Flare Seal

Just like the Wrangler JL, the Rubicon Gladiator comes with the highline fenders from the factory. We love how much additional clearance the fender set provides as running 35s with no lift isn’t possible on any other midsized truck. However, like the JL, debris can easily find their way in between the flare and the body of the Jeep. An easy way to combat this is with a small rubber tube seal. We picked up this bundle from Amazon. To install, simply cut it to length and use a plastic trim tool to move the seal inside of the gap. This isn’t a perfect solution, but does make cleaning out the fender gap much easier.

5. Sunrider

The fifth upgrade we recommend is more for hardtop owners than anyone else. If you purchased a Gladiator for the open top convenience, but find that leaving the hardtop panels at the house is a bit dicey and tossing them in the bed isn’t wise, then we recommend checking out the Bestop Sunrider for hardtops. It replaces the two front hardtop panels with a one-piece soft top panel that can quickly fold back when you want to let a little light in or just enjoy the stars on a late night cruise home. It installs in about twenty minutes and surprisingly gave us a lower decibel reading on our iPhone app over the stock hardtop. We opted for the twill version, which is Bestop’s premium fabric.

Bonus Mods

Some of you eagled-eyed viewers may have noticed that it’s now black between the front and rear windows. This is a simple vinyl wrap material that was purely a cosmetic mod. If we decided to go back to stock, all we’ll need to do is simply peel off the material.

Moving Forward

We’ll have more Gladiator content coming soon. So, be sure to check back in as we’ll have more upgrades and in-depth reviews that you can read here and watch on our YouTube channel.

Is the Hercules Gladiator coming? Spy photos of the 2021 Gladiator leaked.

It's been a long time since Volkswagen's Jetta GLI—the quickest, and most expensive, version of its entry-level four-door sedan—has lived up to the marketing line of a 'four-door GTI.' Witness the previous-generation car, which was hampered by a detuned version of the Golf GTI hatchback's turbocharged engine and the loss of its manual gearbox towards the end of its run.

For 2019, however, everything seemed to be in its rightful place. The redesigned Jetta GLI swapped its somewhat bloated NCS platform for the very same MQB architecture underpinnings as the Golf GTI. On top of that, it also boasts an identical drivetrain to the GTI, with no more handicapping of horsepower between the two sides of the same compact performance coin.

If only the end result felt like the true sum of its parts. After spending time behind the wheel of the 2019 Volkswagen Jetta GLI, I still can't vouch for the four-door being able to match its five-door sibling in terms of thrills.

All The Right Moves

On paper, all of the right ingredients are there: the GLI ditches the torsion beam rear suspension found on the standard Jetta and swaps in a multi-link setup for fully-independent response at all four corners, it offers 228hp and 258 lb-ft of torque from a 2.0L, turbocharged four-cylinder engine, and it can be had with either a six-speed manual or a seven-speed dual-clutch (DSG) automated manual transmission.

The GLI also embiggens its brakes front and rear, with the forward units measuring 13.4 inches, sourced from the potent Golf R. Its suspension system is stiffer than that of the base Jetta, and it rides slightly lower, all the better to attract attention to its somewhat more extroverted aero package (front fascia, trunk lid spoiler, side skirts) and dressy 18-inch wheels. The 35th Anniversary Edition car, which was the version I sampled, also features adaptive dampers.

All this comes from the factory almost 3.0 inches longer and nearly a full inch wider than the older Jetta GLI, yet posts almost exactly the same weight.

Good, But Not Great

As might be expected in a car that offers 20 or so additional ponies compared to its predecessor, the 2019 Volkswagen Jetta offers competitive acceleration from a stop, measuring just a few ticks over five and half seconds when launching to 60-mph. In my DSG-equipped tester, however, accessing all of that grunt required me to stay on top of engine revs by way of the car's paddle shifters.

Let the boost drop and you'll be stuck with a moment or two of hesitation when flooring the pedal in automatic mode, with only a great whooshing moan from under the hood to show for your right-foot efforts. It's a task that I assume would be simpler—or at least more natural-feeling—when using a clutch pedal.

I'm not so sure that the latter would have nearly as much of an effect on the Jetta GLI's overall fun factor. With a wheelbase that's stretched 2.0 inches over that of the more nimble Golf GTI, the sedan simply doesn't encourage the kind of shenanigans that make the hatchback Volkswagen fun to drive. Is it quick? Certainly. Does it feel confident and composed on more challenging sections of road? Yes. Did I ever feel the urge to take the long way home, or seek out a particularly twisty stretch of asphalt to play with the GLI? Never.

Look Beyond Performance

While the GLI might not be the GTI equivalent that Volkswagen hypes, it does have more than a few saving graces to make it worth considering among its admittedly thin competition in the small, fast sedan segment.

Let's start with price. The most lush version of the Jetta GLI, the Autobahn trim, tops out at just under $30k, even if you opt for the $800 DSG transmission option. The sportier, mid-tier 35th Anniversary Edition is cheaper still at $26,995. Compare that to $35k for the GTI Autobahn, and the appeal of the four-door begins to coalesce. Even with the few additional tech features found in the Golf, that $6,000 gap is hard to justify.

Then there's the Jetta GLI's size. With a larger interior to go with its stretched sheet metal, the Volkswagen is rear seat-friendly even for larger adults, making it a strong stand-in as a family car alternative to traditional mid-size options. It may not have the flexibility of the Golf's hatchback, but it does deliver a sizeable boot to compensate.

The 2019 Volkswagen Jetta GLI doesn't match its showroom sibling GTI in terms of fun, nor feature the same cop-baiting exhaust cackles as the more unhinged Hyundai Elantra Sport, or the all-wheel drive grip of the similarly-potent Subaru Impreza WRX. What it does offer is a chance to trade the pedestrian character of the standard Jetta for the smoother, faster, and more stylish duds of the GLI, at a price point that is quite competitive with each of the above.

Perhaps one day VW will again crack the code that delivers GTI playfulness wrapped in the adult appeal of a four-door sedan, but until then, the current GLI is a two-thirds equivalent in terms of both value and driving pleasure. Not a bad place to be on a landscape where hatchbacks have almost entirely replaced trunks amongst compact performance fans.

Which high performance Volkswagen hatch should you spend your money on? We compare the the GTI versus the Golf R.

It's been two full years since Gran Turismo Sport arrived as the first GT game for the Playstation4 console, and we shared the feelings of many when we played it out found it to be a mixed bag. It had solid driving physics, it looked fantastic and had the polish that Gran Turismo games are known for, but it was very short on content compared to both its competition and to previous GT titles.

Fortunately though, in the 24 months since GT Sport launched, developer Polyphony Digital has been working tirelessly to build upon and improve the game with regular updates along with constant influx of new cars and tracks.

Since launch the car roster has expanded to include dozens of classic '80s and '90s JDM machines, classic and modern American muscle cars and much more. Recent updates have even added rainy conditions to certain tracks and the resulting visuals are stunning.

There has been so much content added to the game that it now hardly resembles the launch version, and Sony has taken this to heart and this week it will release a new version of the game called Gran Turismo Sport Spec II in both digital and disc formats.

It's not a sequel, but what Gran Turismo Sport Spec II does offer is new base game loaded with the majority of the content added to the game post launch, all for about $25-$30. Buyers of the Spec II version will also get some in-game benefits including 2.5 million additional starting credits and a number of cars added to their garage.

Those who have been playing Gran Turismo Sport since launch likely won't have any need for the Spec II version, as all of the content has been added for free since day one, with the current totals at just under 300 cars and about 25 different tracks with multiple layouts among them.

What Gran Turismo Sport Spec II DOES offer is a way for newcomers to jump right in and see the game that many of us hoped for at launch. It may have taken a couple years, but Gran Turismo Sport has truly evolved into the one of the best entries in the franchise and one of the best racing games currently available on consoles.

It's very likely that the next full Gran Turismo game won't be seen until the after debut of the Playstation 5 or whatever Sony may call its next gen console. so there's hoping that Gran Turismo Sport continues to grow and expand at its current pace until then.

In the meantime, if you are looking for a wilder, crazier racing game experience check out our review of Wreckfest, which is available on both PC and consoles.

Back in 1953 when the Corvette first debuted it was only available as a convertible. The new Stingray convertible draws on that legacy as the first hardtop and mid-engine convertible in Corvette history.

Unlike many convertible versions of cars, the new Stingray convertible looks natural, like it was designed for a removable top, rather than some vehicles where the convertible version was clearly an afterthought. Not only does it look great, but it’s priced right, too. According to Brian Sweeney, Chevrolet U.S. vice president, “The convertible will be priced only $7,500 more than the entry 1LT Stingray coupe.”

Maintains Decent Storage Capacity

The mid-engine 2020 Corvette was engineered as a convertible and therefore preserves the tunnel-dominant structure and die-cast parts found in the coupe. Likewise, the hardtop stows “seamlessly” into the body and retains the ability to store two sets of golf clubs in the trunk with the top down. Adding to its relative practicality is the fact that it also has a front storage compartment that can store an airline-spec carry-on and a laptop bag.

Of course, the hardtop decreases cabin noise, increases security and has a more integrated look that the model’s previous softtop designs. “Our goal from the beginning was to make sure customers didn’t have to sacrifice any functionality, performance or comfort when choosing the hardtop convertible,” said Josh Holder, Corvette program engineering manager. “We managed to keep the same design theme as the coupe, as well as the exceptional storage capacity and track capability.”

Adjustable Rear Window

Other notable details about the convertible are: the two-piece top can be activated at speeds up to 30mph, and it can retract in as few as 16 seconds. For the first time, the top uses six electric motors to actuate (versus hydraulic systems) which increases reliability and uses encoders for more precise control. The rear divider glass window located in the middle of the vehicle can be adjusted up or down regardless of the position of the top.

No Performance Compromises

Don’t worry performance fans, the convertible is powered by the same next-generation 6.2L small block V8 LT2, naturally-aspirated engine that produces 495hp and 470 Lb-ft of torque. They also ensured that the roof design of the convertible, combined with the same rear spoiler on the Z51 Performance Package, results in identical drag between the coupe and the convertible with the top up.

Click here to learn more about the new technology of the mid-engine Corvette Stingray.

When it comes to iconic American performance cars, the Pontiac GTO is quite high on the list. It basically kicked off the original muscle car era when it went on sale back in 1964, and through the rest of the '60s and into the '70s the GTO continued to be fast, stylish and beloved performance machine that's still highly sought after today.

What isn't talked about as much is the brief revival of Pontiac GTO nameplate during mid 2000s. At one time being criticized for its bland styling, the 2004-2006 GTO is not only one of the best bargains in the modern muscle car world, it also has the potential to be a proper classic as it continues to age. Here's why.

Stepping back in time to the early 2000s, it wasn't a great time for GM performance cars in the US. The Camaro and Firebird were gone after 2002 and the only car which offered the LS-based V8 engine was the Corvette.

General Motors was however, making some cool stuff in Australia under its Holden subsidiary and it was outspoken GM CEO Bob Lutz who pushed heavily for a re-badged, imported version of the Holden Monaro coupe to be sold in the American market.

That car would become to the 2004 Pontiac GTO, which as-promised was a Monaro with left hand drive and Pontiac badges. It arrived powered by a 350-horsepower variant of the LS1 V8 and was available with either a six-speed manual or four-speed automatic transmission. MSRP came in at a little over $30,000.

While there were some gearheads who had long dreamt of the day GM would sell one its high performance Holden products in the US, when the 2004 GTO went actually went on sale it was met with a mixed reaction by both car buyers and the media.

On one hand, the GTO was built on excellent bones. It had fully independent suspension, a handsome interior that featured build quality that was a cut above the typical GM cabins of the time and it even had a usable back seat. At the time the GTO's interior trimmings were compared to BMW.

Performance-wise, the '04 GTO delivered as well. Off the showroom floor it was capable of low five second 0-60 runs and mid 13 second quarter miles, which made it a proper reincarnation of the original Pontiac muscle car.

On the other hand, when it came to exterior styling and "curb appeal" the GTO wasn't as well received. Sporting only minor changes from the Monaro, the GTO was criticized for its conservative looks and lack of burly muscle car attitude. If anything, it's exterior design simply looked more like a product of late 1990s or early 2000s, as the original Monaro Concept first appeared back in 1998.

Even so, the 2004 GTO proved to be a popular among those who wanted a fast, comfortable four-seat muscle coupe that flew under the radar. It was also given top ranks for its ability to drift and a modified GTO driven by Rhys Millen represented one of the first ground-up professional drift car builds in the US back in the early days of D1GP and Formula Drift.

For the 2005 model year, Pontiac tried to address some of the criticism of the GTO's conservative styling by adding a scooped hood and dual exhaust outlets in the rear. Neither fundamentally changed the exterior of the car, but they did add a bit more visual excitement.

The bigger story came under the hood where the 2005 GTO was now powered by a 6.0 liter LS2 V8 that made 400 horsepower and 400 pound feet of torque—the same as the Corvette of the time. 2005 GTOs also got larger brakes and optional 18 inch wheels to go along with the standard 17s.

With the added displacement and power of the LS2, the GTO could now hit 60 miles per hour in under five seconds and rip off low 13 second quarter miles straight out of the box, all while delivering handling and balance far better then your typical muscle car.

The GTO continued for the '06 model year with the only real noticeable change being black-trimmed taillights. Unfortunately with Monaro production coming to an end in Australia, the GTO experiment was also ended in 2006 after three model years and about 40,000 GTOs imported to the US.

Now, some 13 years after the last GTO was sold and a decade after the Pontiac brand itself was shut down, the '04-'06 GTO remains a cult favorite and also a fantastic bang for the bang modern muscle car project.

Because of the slow demand it was common to find new or lightly used GTOs offered at heavy discounts, but in the years since the values for used GTOs seem to have stabilized—although they can still represent a tremendous bargain overall.

Prices for used GTOs run the spectrum of beat up high mileage examples for well under $10,000 to pristine low mileage cars being sold in the low to mid 20s. Fortunately, aside from a few weak spots in the suspension that can be fixed with stronger replacements, the cars have proven to be quite reliable. It is LS-powered after all...

Perhaps the biggest obstacle when it comes to buying a used GTO is keeping an eye out for cars that have been modified and abused. This goes for any used car, but thanks to its status as one of the cheapest, fastest V8s you can get there are plenty of trashed GTOs out there you'll want to be weary of.

The sweet spot will likely be a car with average mileage and minor interior/exterior wear which can be had for pretty easily for between $10,000 and $15,000. From there you can either leave it stock and enjoy it, or take advantage of the massive LS engine aftermarket and have some fun.

As for the rest of the car, the GTO-specific aftermarket may not be as big as that of a Mustang or Corvette but there are plenty of upgrades available for the suspension, brakes and chassis if you'd like to go that route.

Interestingly, in a way the GTO's understated, older-appearing styling that actually makes the car even more appealing today. Some may have called it bland when it was new, but the style of the car has actually aged quite well and it stands out from the more in-your-face style of modern performance cars like the Camaro with its gun-slit windows and awkward seating position.

Throw in the rarity factor when compared to your more common Mustangs and Camaros, and the GTO makes for fun and very underrated project car that offers a ton of potential as a weekend car, track car or even a daily driver.

Want to know more about the original Pontiac GTO? Be sure to check out our detailed retrospective. 

Growing up, Christina Lee was surrounded by classic Mustangs. Her father was a huge Ford guy, and so her introduction to the car world was filled with blue ovals and sprinting ponies. It’s no surprise, then, that after building out a twin-turbo Infinity G35 she’d return to the Ford family for her next build—a 5.0 2013 all-motor Mustang.

Originally, this car wasn’t supposed to be a “build” at all. Like so many before her and so many that will come in the future, Christina bought the Mustang to drive and enjoy as it rolled off the line, not to tear into and swap parts on. Also, like so many before her, she would be wrong about that, too.

Not long after posting her new purchase on Instagram, she was approached by MotoIQ about taking on an all-motor Cobra Jet build and the ball started rolling on what was to become the very definition of a sleeper.

From the outside, besides a few decals on the rear haunches and the bright blue HRE FF01s, the only indication anything’s been done to the car are the meaty Nitto NT555 G2s on the four corners. If one were to look closely, the upgrade to larger 14” rotors might be a hint as well.

However, when the key turns and the motor starts, the Borla long tube headers and custom Magnaflow exhaust don’t do much to hide what’s under the hood. A slew of parts—a full list can be found at the bottom of this article—from both the Cobra Jet and Boss 302R families come together to make 498 rwhp and 418 ft/lb without the help of forced induction.

Underneath the car upgrades can be found throughout, stiffening up the chassis for its track duties. Front and rear swaybars, tubular trailing arms, an upper third link, watts linkage, endlinks and urethane bushings all pitch in to create a much more predictable and stable ‘stang.

While it's pretty hard to hide once it's driving. Christina has built a killer road-and-track double-duty machine. With enough power to hang on the track and carve canyons but draped in a sedate-enough exterior to not be hassled by the police, we're excited to see this build get out on the tracks of California.

TUNING MENU: 2013 Ford Mustang GT

It’s not often that our first vehicles stick with us. Even as a symbol of freedom for many teenagers, at an older age, just the thought of our first car or truck is enough to bring up horrible memories of breakdowns, being late for work or being ridiculed by our more fortunate peers. But such is not the case for Miller Motorsports Manufacturing Engineer, Andrew Shive, and his trusty 1994 Toyota Pickup. As his first vehicle ever, Andrew has a connection with this truck. We caught up with him in Moab, Utah between trail runs to hear the story behind this Toyota and see how it does on the red rocks. As it turns out, it’s stayed by his side for over 12 years, serving not only as a daily driver, but the catalyst for a life-long hobby.

Working for two-time KOH champion and Team Nitto driver, Erik Miller, doesn’t come easy. As an engineer, Andrew is trusted to design and implement some of the most crucial components in 4-wheel-drive off-road racing. When it came to building his own truck, Andrew applied many of the same principles as he would on a high-performing Jeep or race car. Starting with a 1994 Toyota extra cab made this a bit easier too. The Toyota comes factory with a fully boxed frame and the legendary 22RE 4-cylinder engine mated to a bulletproof 5-speed transmission. With a huge aftermarket, and many parts devoted to solid-axle swapping the front suspension, Andrew knew he could build a formidable rock crawler out of his old daily.

Starting in 1986, Toyota redesigned the Pickup to have an independent front suspension 4-wheel-drive system. While this meant better road manners and handling, it limited the articulation that can be had from the old solid-axle trucks. So Andrew made short work of cutting off the existing IFS and installing a solid axle with the help of some 4-inch lift Trail Gear leaf springs, modified to net about 2.5 inches of lift. After all, who wouldn’t want a lower center of gravity while crawling?

The front axle is a stock Toyota housing with Marlin Crawler gussets and differential armor. It sports a 5.29 high pinion gear set, with ARB Air Locker, 30-spline Longfield chromoly axle shafts, and ARP studs through the IFS hubs. Andrew even used a set of Tacoma front rotors for better stopping power. The rear axle is also a factory Toyota 8-inch housing, modified to accept a 3rd-generation 4Runner factory electronic locking differential.

Andrew also made some modifications to the factory Toyota drivetrain to help its crawling capabilities. The 22RE engine was rebuilt from top down, bored out, and reassembled with a high-flowing cylinder head and cam. Squeezing out as much power from the 4-cylinder helps with normal city driving. Leaving the stock 5-speed transmission, Andrew installed dual stock transfer cases with 2.28:1 crawl ratios using a Trail Gear adapter, with a twin-stick rear case. The double low gearing allows the 4-cylinder to effortlessly climb even the steepest obstacles. Andrew modified a Trail Gear transfer case crossmember to make everything fit snug against the body.

Like any avid hiker, a proper rock crawler is nothing without the proper footwear. Since Andrew still drives this truck on the street, he needed a tire that allowed for quiet and smooth operation on pavement, with ample grip in the rocks and dirt. The Nitto Ridge Grappler is the weapon of choice for effectively handling both kinds of driving. With its computer-engineered tread pattern, the Ridge Grappler is a quiet tire with the grip of a more aggressive off-road tire. The 37x12.50R17 Ridge Grapplers  on Pro Comp La Paz wheels were a clear choice for Andrew on this build.

There’s even some custom fabrication on the truck. Protecting the rocker panels from rock hits is a set of custom-built sliders. The front and rear bumpers, as well as the bed cage are also custom—built by Andrew himself. Andrew’s careful and calculated approach to his work is evident in many areas of this build.

While Andrew’s Toyota was the black sheep at Easter Jeep Safari in Moab this year, it brought with a breath of fresh air, dividing up the JKs, JLs and Gladiators found on the trails throughout the week. This was Andrew’s first trip to Moab with his Toyota, and his excitement to get the truck pitched over on some red rocks was difficult to contain. Was it luck that his first vehicle has served him so well over the years? Or was in Andrew’s great taste in off-road vehicles and engineering skill that keeps this 25 year-old Toyota rock crawler rolling down the road? However you see it, we envy Andrew and his Toyota. There’s nothing quite like exploring new and unseen terrain with a lifelong friend. See you on the trail!

If solid-axles aren't you're thing, check out our Truck Editor, Matt Moghaddam's 1991 Toyota Pickup Prerunner!

Turbochargers can be an excellent way to add power to a wide variety of drivetrains, provided you've got the space for not just the turbine, but all of the associated plumbing and cooling that has to go with it.

Unfortunately, some vehicles are simply too cramped under the hood to make a turbo installation easy without major modifications. In other cases, they generate too much heat to be practical or safe in a performance application. For those unwilling to start sawing the firewall or adding outrageous scoops or power bulges to the hood, there's a unique solution that has been adopted by those desperate for boost and willing to take a chance on something a little out-of-the-ordinary: rear-mount turbos.

The Air Back There

Think about it for a second. While the front of your vehicle might be stuffed to the gills, chances are there's more than a little room at the rear - specifically, underneath the chassis, and tucked up behind the back bumper. This is the entire premise behind a rear-mount turbo design, which mounts the snails wherever is convenient but usually as close to the muffler tips outlets as possible to make exhaust routing simpler.

What are the advantages to this type of installation? First, it solves the 'no space in the engine bay' issue. Second, most rear mount turbochargers don't require a dedicated intercooler, because the charge is cooled by the ambient air passing alongside the piping that sends it back to the engine once it's been compressed. Finally, it prevents other parts of your engine—fuel lines, wiring, intake, cooling system - from being exposed to the significant amount of heat generated by a furiously-spinning turbo.

It's Not That Simple

There are some compromises associated with a remote mount turbocharger. Given that a turbo is driven by engine exhaust gases, which spin the turbine and compress the air that is then fed back into the engine intake, the farther the air has to travel in that cycle, the more lag there's going to be between stepping on the accelerator and making usable boost. There's also the cooling of exhaust gases and decrease pulse size once it reaches the turbine's fins, which makes a turbo's operation much less efficient than when installed closer to the header.

Because of this, it can be more difficult to use a rear-mount turbo on a small displacement engine, where the lack of torque can make lag a frustrating issue at lower rpm. There ways to tune around this, but it requires a strong knowledge of how to properly plumb the diameter of the tubing involved, which given the rarity of these installations usually means finding a specialist willing to work out all the kinks. In general, basic kits that offer low boost are simple enough to install and use with high-torque, large-displacement motors, but anything else is going require more than a little expertise.

A few other things complicate a remote-mount turbo installation. Finding room for the turbochargers is only half the battle - you'll also need to make sure there's space to run the tubing as well, and that it doesn't pass too close to suspension components or hang too low underneath the vehicle, where it risks being scraped or damaged. Then there's oiling the turbocharger, which will require an additional pump and line as well as typically a secondary oil reservoir that's nearby to the turbine.

Is It Worth It?

Given that rear mount turbochargers are more complex to install, less efficient than those located closer to the engine, and not usually suited for small-displacement engines, are there any compelling reasons to go this route?

Frankly, the strongest argument for a remote turbocharger is necessity. If you don't have space up front, and absolutely want to run boost, then it's really your only option. That being said, there are also some applications where turbo lag is not such a big deal—such as drag racing, where boost can be built prior to launch - which means you can piece together a decent homemade solution without having to worry too much about tuning and sizing the plumbing for standard street use and even response throughout the entire power band. The latter is particularly true if paired with a large V8.

Whether you choose to go with a pre-fabricated kit, or design your own system using off-the-shelf or junkyard parts, remember that caution is always the better part of turbo experimentation. Start out with conservative boost and maximize fuel delivery when initially tuning your setup, and work up gradually to the power level you have set as a goal, and you'll stand a better chance of avoiding any expensive engine failures at speed.

Looking for wilder turbo installs? Click here for a round-up of the craziest turbocharger setups we've ever seen.

This week saw the debut of two different production-based race cars from Mazda and Chevrolet, and while they are both pretty impressive on their own there's a chance they may preview futuure higher performance street versions of the cars they are based on. Let's take a look and see what these cars may be previewing.

Mazda3 TCR

Let's start with the Mazda, who just unveiled a race version of its Mazda3 hatchback for the increasingly popular TCR touring car series.

Developed by Mazda Motorsports, the car has naturally been built to spec for TCR competition both in the US and overseas as well.

While the road-going Mazda3 is powered by a naturally aspirated 2.5 liter SKYACTIV engine, the race version is powered by a turbocharged 2.0 liter engine making 350 horsepower and connected to a six-speed sequential gearbox.

In case you aren't familiar with TCR machines, they are usually based on compacts and hot hatches like the Volkswagen Golf GTI, Honda Civic Type R and Hyundai Veloster N. And while the Mazda3 has long been an enthusiast favorite thanks to its sharp handling, the current version of the car isn't really considered a hot hatch.

There was a genuine hot hatch version of the Mazda3 in the past however. Both the first and second generations of the car being offered in turbocharged MazdaSpeed versions that offered significant power bumps, more aggressive bodywork and the associated suspension and chassis tweaks, but it hasn't been seen since 2013.

Does the debut of a TCR Mazda3 suggest that a new MazdaSpeed3 or similarly named hot hatch version of the cars is on the horizon? It's hard to say. On one hand Mazda could be perfectly content using the race car to build interest for the existing model with it responsive chassis and peppy but not quite fast powertrain.

On the other hand, a properly powerful harder-edged Mazda3 isn't an absurd idea. Mazda already offers a more powerful turbocharged 2.5 liter SKYACTIV engine in the larger Mazda6 and Mazda CX-5, so it's not unreasonable to think that engine could used in the Mazda3 with a manual gearbox and a limited slip differential.

The 2019 Mazda3 is even offered in AWD, so a potential hot hatch version could even be a genuine Subaru WRX competitor. For now all we can do is hope and speculate on the return of the MazdaSpeed3, but the TCR version of the car will make its race debut in January at Daytona.

Corvette C8R

Also making its debut at next year's Rolex 24 at Daytona will be the much-anticipated GT race car version of the 2020 C8 Corvette,

which was also unveiled this week alongside the 2020 Corvette Stingray Convertible.

Unfortunately Chevy hasn't yet provided any details about the C8R's drivetrain, but it's reasonable to make some connections between the competition and a potential hotter version of the production C8 Corvette.

Unlike the a potential new MazdaSpeed3 which is still just speculation at this point, higher performance versions of C8 are all but officially confirmed with both the Z06 and possibly the ZR1 designations likely to return in the near future.

And while we still don't know exactly what powers the C8R or if its race engine will share anything with upcoming production versions, rumors have suggested a new smaller displacement, more exotic flat plane crank V8 will be the powerplant for the C8 Z06.

And if engine sound is anything to go on, footage of the C8R prototype on the race track certainly suggests an engine different from the familiar overhead valve V8s that have powered the normal Corvettes.

We can suspect, however, that the C8R's more aggressive bodywork and large wing may hint at the exterior design of the C8 Z06 which is assured to be a more extreme, more track-oriented take on the already jaw-dropping C8 Stingray.

It shouldn't be long before we know more about both the C8R and hopefully more about the inevitable C8 Z06 but until then let the rumors fly. In the case of both the race versions of the Corvette and Mazda3 both show that the old adage of "win on Sunday, sell on Monday" is still alive and well.

Wondering how the C8 Stingray stacks up against the Acura NSX? Be sure to checkout our breakdown of the two cars.

The sounds of engine revs and exhaust backfires ricocheted through the forest during the historic Empire Hill Climb, which is nestled on the outskirts of Lake Michigan in the small village of Empire, Michigan. Forty-five competitors came well-prepared for the 6^th annual race with their SCCA regulated cars. Builds ranged from insane engine swaps, low-budget builds and mostly-stock setups. It's grassroots racing at its finest. Here's the low-down on what we saw, and which cars won the competition. 

Rolls-Royce with Viper Power

It's something you just need to see to believe: A Rolls-Royce powered by a SRT-10 V10 engine.

Darko Stojanovski built this 1977 Rolls Royce Silver Wraith II as a Lemons racecar from parts laying around in his salvage yard. The car blew through two engines during two separate Lemons races, but Stojanovski is determined to make this beast live. So far, the third engine is the charm.

A Mercedes/Datsun Mashup

Jordan Easter came back for her second year after giving her Datsun 280Z a stronger heart. The donor was a V12 engine from a 1993 Mercedes SL 600.

Easter tuned the 400-hp setup herself via a Megasquirt Pro EVO Series 3 ECU. We hate to cut the details short, but consider this mention a teaser for an article that’s coming to your screens in the near future.

A Well-Fed Gremlin

Ian Dawkins isn’t one who is against feeding a Gremlin after midnight.

In fact, he ripped a 401 engine out of a ‘76 Jeep and stuffed it into his now 400-hp ’73 AMC Gremlin. But before the install, he gave the engine an overhaul. It is bored .040 over to make it 409ci, and the forged internals are balanced and blue printed.

Stock or Not?

This 1972 Ford Mustang appears mostly stock, but Mike Purzycki completely rebuilt and installed a 460-cid big-block engine under the hood just in time for the Hill Climb.

“The only time I’ve had it on the road was the couple hours to get here,” he grinned. After a proper shakedown (and then some), the car was still running soundly and Purzycki was still smiling, only wider. 

When an MG and a Ford Ranger Procreate

When Daniel Atsma first started stuffing a 4-cylinder ’08 Ford Ranger engine into his mostly-gutted 1970 MG MGB, he ran into complications and questioned his motive.

To avoid any roadblocks, Atsma transplanted all of the Ranger’s electronics into the MG, including the interior gauges. The setup has a whopping 150-hp, and the weight-to-power ratio makes this a great car for ripping up the hill. After experiencing all that this fun-enhancing machine has to offer, Atsma hasn’t given his decision a second thought. 

Corvette for the Win

What about the aforementioned mostly-stock vehicles, you ask? Well, out of all the insane mash-up builds, Robert Meyer got the chicken dinner.

He earned 1st Place overall piloting his 2003 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 to the checkered flag. The car has minor upgrades, like GM T1 anti-roll bars and Johnny O’Connell Black Series coilovers to stiffen up the suspension. The engine is an original LS6 that makes only slightly more than the stock 405-hp. It was originally set up for the SCCA Touring 1 class. “The touring classes are pretty cool because the cars are very similar to their road-going counterparts, which is great because it helps manage the cost of the build while enabling an extremely capable racecar,” Meyer said.

Speaking of extremely capable platforms, a second Corvette Z06, manufacture year 2002, took 2nd Place Overall. Daniel Milewski pushed hard up the hill to finish just milliseconds behind Meyer, and word has it that this Corvette is even less modified than the first. 

Want to see more cars from the 2019 Empire Hill Climb? We thought so, which is why we included the photo gallery. Enjoy.

If you still need more Hill Climbing action, check out last year's event.

At high horsepower, increased blow-by is inevitable. This is especially true for competition diesel engines, where extreme boost, big torque and huge cylinder pressure leads to significant blow-by. In these extreme applications, the factory CCV system doesn’t allow the crankcase to breathe properly. This is precisely why Mishimoto designed its universal high-flow baffled catch can. Utilizing free-flowing inlet and outlets, the assembly provides a low-restriction path of travel for crankcase gases. Along the way, an integrated filter within the CNC-machined baffle removes fuel, oil and water vapors from the CCV system.

Rated for applications of up to 1,600 hp, our intended target with Mishimoto’s universal high-flow baffled catch can was to install it on a fire-breathing 6.4L Power Stroke. In addition to an aftermarket compound turbocharger arrangement, dual K16 injection pumps and 150-percent over injectors, the built diesel engine was also being subjected to a sizeable hit of nitrous. Seeing more than 70 psi of boost and 100 psi of drive pressure on spray, the 1,250-rwhp, low-10-second 6.4L race truck seemed the perfect test candidate for Mishimoto’s high-flow catch can.

For an up-close look at Mishimoto’s race-ready, fully-serviceable catch can, we’re examining it piece by piece below.

The Full Package

Like all Mishimoto products, packaging is top-shelf with the company’s universal high-flow baffled catch can, which in this case includes precise-fit foam padding (even for the fittings) to ensure the product makes a safe journey to its final destination. And just like the rest of the products listed in the Mishimoto catalog, the universal high-flow catch can comes with a limited lifetime warranty. It retails for $210.95.

Parts & Pieces

In addition to the catch can assembly, everything required to install it is supplied by Mishimoto, less the CCV hose you’ll need to run. This includes the lid and base, the high capacity bottom (or can), a mounting bracket, inlet and outlet fittings and all necessary mounting hardware.

Fully Cleanable Filter

Within the baffled catch can base, you’ll find a fully serviceable filter element. The Polyurethane material filter features a free-flowing yet efficient PPI (pores per inch) rating and can be accessed by removing the stainless steel Allen bolts that secure it to the cover.

The Can

The can itself possesses a fluid capacity of 5.3 ounces, along with a black anodized finish for utmost durability to guard against the elements. Mishimoto recommends checking the contents of the catch can every 1,000 miles until a baseline is established. For removal, the catch can simply unthreads from the base. It employs a large O-ring for a perfect seal.

Drain Port

If you prefer to empty your catch can without breaking the seal, so to speak, Mishimoto includes a 3/8-inch NPT drain plug port in the bottom of the assembly. Mishimoto even offers optional drain kits, which include a black Nylon barbed mini ball valve, a 3/8-inch NPT x 3/8-inch barbed fitted and 3/8-inch inside diameter drain hose.

Universal Mounting Bracket

A universal mounting bracket allows the end-user to secure the catch can however (and wherever) he or she wants it. This means you can mount the high-flow catch can assembly in the most convenient or concealed location on your vehicle, and in the orientation you prefer.

Simple Installation

The universal mounting bracket attaches to the catch can lid via three bolts, which require a 4mm Allen to install. Two stainless steel bracket mounting bolts and nuts with external tooth lock washers secure the high-flow catch can assembly to the vehicle. Once you find a suitable spot to position the catch can, it can be installed in minutes.

Restriction-Free Inlet and Outlet Ports

In high-horsepower applications, the last thing you want to do is choke down the crankcase’s ability to breathe. This is where the high-flow literature stems from on Mishimoto’s competition-ready catch can: both the inlet and outlet ports accommodate 1-inch CCV hose.

High-Flow Fittings

Mishimoto supplies Male NPT x barbed (M27 x 2.0) fittings for the inlet and outlet ports. The fittings are CNC-machined from 6061 aluminum and are treated to a black anodized finish in order to hold up in harsh environments. The threaded side of each fitting comes with an O-ring seal to ensure it never leaks.

Flow Through the Catch Can Assembly

With the can removed from the base, you can catch a glimpse of how the catch can works. Blow-by gases enter the catch can unobstructed, but have to pass through the aforementioned low-micron, highly-efficient Polyurethane filter in order to exit. During this process, oil, fuel and soot collects in the can while only filtered blow-by gases are allowed to escape.

High-Horsepower Test Mule

Rated for up to 1,600 hp, Mishimoto’s universal high-flow baffled catch can is right at home aboard this 6.4L-powered F-250. Strapped to the chassis dyno, the truck’s compound turbo system produced more than 60 psi of boost and made 1,100rwhp on fuel alone. Then after introducing a single stage of nitrous, boost jumped to more than 70 psi and horsepower peaked at 1,250. The owner expects to see low to mid-10’s out of the lightweight Super Duty—as well as the forced-installation of a cage in the near future.

Mishimoto has a long history of improving the factory shortcomings on Ford ’08 to ’10 Super Dutys. Get all the details on its drop-in aluminum radiator for the 6.4L Power Stroke right here.

10 years ago, if you said Ford and GM would be developing big displacement V8 gas engines in 2020, you’d probably get a lot of weird looks and laughs. Yet, here we are. Just months before hitting the market, both companies have released technical details on their latest pickup truck gas engine offerings. Thanks in part to new technology and innovation, powerhouse V8s in trucks have become as efficient as ever, and they’re even selling better than anyone imagined. It’s no surprise that Ford and GM are capitalizing on the trend, and bringing forth new and exciting options for prospective truck owners. But who’s got the better product? In this article, we’ll identify the key components of each new engine and compare their specifications.

Ford 7.3L V8 “Godzilla”

The news of Ford’s new big block earlier this year hit the internet like a tidal wave. Gearheads in particular dreamed of all the projects that could use a big displacement pushrod Ford gasser. But when the power numbers were revealed in August, some felt cheated of their big horsepower dreams. Ford’s new iron block 7.3L gas engine is said to be offered in an array of F-series Super Duty pickups, all the way up to their medium duty F750 trucks. The new engine, dubbed “Godzilla”, is said to produce 430hp at 5,500rpm and 475ft-lb of torque at 4,000rpm. While not blistering power for such a large V8, there are several theories to explain it.

Because this engine was developed for pickup trucks, it was engineered to perform best when doing the kind of work a pickup truck normally does. As advertised, the peak torque is made at 4,000rpm, which is relatively low. This is likely to aid while towing and hauling, or climbing grades. Ford designed this engine to perform well, but didn’t give it enough power to hurt itself.

Quoted from Ford’s press release: “The 7.3-liter is designed for maximum durability in the harshest environments given that our customers live and work in these conditions every day,” said Joel Beltramo, Ford manager for gas V8 engines. “This engine has the largest displacement in its class and is designed to provide benefits in key areas like power, durability, ease of maintenance and total operating costs.”

Durability and ease of maintenance are important factors to truck owners, especially those with fleets of trucks that require maintenance on a strict schedule for commercial use. The 7.3L also features oversized main bearings, a variable-displacement oil pump that allows for faster warm ups and better cooling and lubrication under heavy loads, and a forged steel crankshaft. So, while it is robust and oversimplified, it’s not without reason. Ford is responding to the demands of its market, which are easily serviced, workhorse engines that last as long as the truck does. Ford’s new 7.3L gasser will fall in line between the current gas offering, the 6.2L SOHC V8 and their available 6.7L Power Stroke turbo diesel power plant.

GM 6.6L V8 “L8T”

Also new to GM’s 2020 pickup truck lineup is the available 6.6L V8 gas engine that will replace the long-running 6.0L found in GM pickup trucks. Another offering that got hot rod fans excited, this 400-cubic inch engine is the latest big displacement V8 from GM that is slated for the Silverado and Sierra HD models. Based on the current 5th generation GM small block architecture, but with an iron block like it’s 6.0L cousin. GM advertises the new 6.6L with 401hp at 5,200rpm and 464ft-lb of torque at 4,000rpm. While offering less horsepower and torque than the Ford 7.3L, the GM 6.6L does have some perks.

The 6.6L offers direct injection, which is a class-exclusive feature, and therefore boasts a 10.8:1 compression ratio. It also has a new active oil pump, to assist in temperature control. Since this engine design is based on existing small block V8s in GM’s lineup, it’s likely to take better to modifications, and our prediction is the aftermarket support will be around sooner. But make no mistake; this is not a hot rod LS engine. The L8T was designed to be a workhorse like its predecessor.

So, which one’s better? It’s all speculative at this point. The favoritism is already flying around the room, with GM fans claiming victory with a familiar platform that borrows design and engineering from proven engines. On the other hand, the Ford team is placing their bets on the company’s ability to design long-lasting workhorse big blocks reminiscent of the legendary 460. The truth is, until we can get behind the wheel of each, and put them to the real-world test, the jury is out on this one.

Both V8s have significant new technology that allows them to even exist in a 2020 truck to begin with, and both offer promising power levels to get the job done. The only variable that remains a mystery is the fuel economy of each. Since both of these engines will be offered in heavy duty pickup trucks, the manufacturers are not required to list their mpg rating. Guess you’ll just have to wait and see!

Check out the all new 2020 Ford F250 Tremor!

Fit with a Cummins diesel under the hood, 5-inch lift long-travel suspension, and 40-inch-tall NittoTrail Grapplers, Synergy Manufacturing’s2014 Ram 2500 is anything but your commonplace tow rig. As a company known for its hardcore Jeep suspension and steering components, Synergy has taken what they’ve learned in the Jeep world and transferred it into the late-model Ram platform. We caught up with company president Dave Schlossberg in Moab, Utah, where the truck was getting a proper workout on the trail.

Want to see more fullsize off-road trucks getting it done? Check out this solid-axle GMC Sierra.

Racing is expensive, but it doesn't have to break the bank. There are plenty of relatively affordable options for getting on a race track that manage to combine low consumables costs (tires, brakes) with both an inexpensive purchase price and a sterling reputation for reliability and ease-of-repair.

When I elected to tag-in a track car that was older than I am, I knew I was potentially throwing all of the above out the window. It can require a solid effort to simply keep a classic car cruising down city streets on a regular basis, which is infinitely less stressful than asking it to live at redline lap after lap for an entire season. Still, I had my heart set on the experience of campaigning a 70s-era sports car, and girded my loins (or is that 'buried my head in the sand?) for the inevitable mechanical and pocketbook heartache that was to follow.

Four years later, almost all of the bugs have been worked out of my 1978 Datsun 280Z. A series of upgrades have left the engine largely untouched, but the driveline and the suspension have been built to withstand the perils of high performance driving. Now that I am past the stage of correcting the issues that crop up on any secondhand automobile (deferred maintenance, design defects), I thought it would be interesting to examine what it cost me, in terms of time, toil, and treasure, to keep a 41 year old automobile in fighting shape during a full summer of on-track abuse.

Start With Simplicity

I didn't choose a first-generation Datsun Z by accident. The electronically fuel injected L28 engine under its hood has an excellent reliability record and very few baked-in issues that have to be overcome before it can be flogged relentlessly at high rpm. Combine that with the car's lightweight platform, and it's a recipe for fairly low operating costs over the course of a May to October season.

That being said, there are limits to the mechanical patience of any automobile, and I had already discovered a few pertaining to the 280Z. Driving down to my last event of the previous year, the stock 5-speed manual gearbox in the car began popping out of fifth gear. About 20 miles later, I had lost 5th entirely, which was soon to be followed by 2nd and reverse, requiring me to creep forward holding the shift lever in 1st gear in order to maintain my momentum.

Investigation revealed a design flaw common to all Datsun 5-speeds of that era, where a bolt backing out internally causes the 5th fork to fail and eventually lunches the rest of the transmission's important bits. Eager to transform lemons into lemonade, this spring I had local Montreal race shop AGM Performance Inc (also known as WeTune) install a close-ratio replacement gearbox from a later 280ZX Turbo (which a good friend rebuilt for me), along with a helical limited-slip differential from M-Design. I also moved from a 3.54 rear ratio to a 3.90, as the newer transmission offered a true overdrive.

Total cost, including upgrades? $3705.52

Driver Mod Needed

The new combination proved extremely effective at managing the L28's powerband, and eliminated the hole between 2nd and 3rd gear that often bogged the engine at full throttle. If only I could have simultaneously upgraded my brain, and my right hand, which managed to shift from 3rd to 1st gear not once, but twice during my first event of the year, a shakedown on a short track just outside of the city.

The end result? A nasty, and loud, valvetrain tick that was eventually diagnosed as a fairly innocuous jumped rocker arm—easily repaired, but still an inauspicious way to star the season.

Total cost of that particular misadventure? Goodwill from AGM Performance, which adjusted the valves in record time and cost $0.

Braking Woes

A month later, the car would suffer dual indignities at the same road course, albeit several weeks apart. The first issue came when hurtling down the back straight of Circuit Mont Tremblant, a former Formula 1 track nestled in Quebec's Laurentian mountains. Just before the final braking zone something under my hood erupted with a 'bang!' and steam and coolant began to splatter against the windshield.

Ever thankful for my electric fans, while keeping an eye on the temperature gauge, I nursed the car back to pit lane and popped the hood, only to discover, to my puzzlement, that all hoses and caps appeared to be in place. Further inspection revealed that the belt driving the water pump had been forced off of its pulley due to the alternator bolt backing out almost completely from its mount. I tightened the bolt (using a nut that my sister, who was running her Miata at the same track, happened to have in her pocket), pulled the belt back on, and ran the rest of the day without incident.

Total cost? $0 - Just skinned knuckles.

Things weren't quite as rosy at my second Mont-Tremblant event, unfortunately. My Datsun had developed the disquieting habit of locking its left front wheel under hard brake, just before any of the others, a problem that may be connected to increased chassis stiffness over stock and a lack of corner balancing. This issue was to dog me throughout two morning sessions, culminating in the discovery that one of my front Nitto NT01 tires had been dragged down to the cords. With my spare sitting in a garage at home—a major faux-pas—my day was over.

Total cost? $164.93 for a new tire, and my pride.

Check Your Oil!

The most harrowing incident to have targeted my Datsun this past year was also one of the most puzzling. Its L28 engine—a 2.8L, straight-six design—had been blowing by significant oil for roughly half of the summer. After a six-hour drive to Watkins Glen International for a full day at the track, I neglected to check the oil levels in the car before my morning sessions. After all, it had been full when I left the house, and that knowledge had made me dangerously complacent.

After two 25-minute sojourns on the track, I dipped the stick and found the motor to be at the very edge of an acceptable oil level—reading 'LOW' on the metal and barely soiling the hashmarks that separated it from 'FULL.' Mortified, I dumped in a pint of oil, which brought me happily back to a safe level. The engine, which had been running strong, continued to drive as normal, and I counted myself lucky, as the L28 is notorious for an oil pan design that can starve the motor in high-G corners even when topped up.

At the end of the day, I was packing up to head home when I heard the faintest of rattles coming from what I thought was the lower half of the engine. The noise would fade in and out over the valvetrain clatter, with no strong correlation between speed and certainly no impact on power. I drove cautiously on the six hour return, but other than the occasional stumble on the highway I experienced nothing out of the ordinary.

Back at AG Performance, a stethoscope quickly revealed a rapid knocking in the low end—almost certainly rod knock. Disheartened, the oil pan was pulled only to discover that the rod bearings seemed fine. It was then that the culprit was identified: the harmonic balancer at the front of the engine had cracked at the center and was vibrating the key in the crank.

A new pulley, a Locktite-d Woodruff key, and an oil change later and the sound was banished. Not an inexpensive solution, but certainly cheaper than an engine rebuild.

Total cost? $1,163.94

An Abnormally Expensive Year

There's one more event left in my 2019 season—exactly a full calendar year since the transmission grenading that kicked off this round-up—and I'm optimistic that the Datsun will pull through without any further incident. This has been by far the most eventful summer in terms of issues with the car, and while some are due to my own negligence, others are manifesting themselves as I creep closer to the limits of what the stock power plant is willing to endure. It's honestly impossible to be upset at engine failures on a motor that has seen seven presidential administrations come and go during its time on earth.

The total cost of running my car this season—including two sets of brake pads (one of which was overnighted), and a fluid swap to Castrol SRF—came to $5,467.50. Not a tiny number, but one that's somewhat skewed by the major driveline work done at the very beginning of the campaign.

Still, perspective is important: my garage mate at Watkins Glen was on his third warranty-replacement engine in his brand new Ford Mustang GT350 due to a vibration issue that has a nasty habit of cracking the block. His out of pocket costs might have been zero, but the hassle has been high—and Ford is an outlier in terms of recognizing warranty claims related to motorsports, which most car companies will go to great lengths to deny.

Newer isn't always more reliable when it comes to the slings and arrows of high performance driving, and I'm willing to bet it's a lot more labor-intensive to take care of any of the issues listed above on modern, complex vehicle. A big part of any performance driving decision is understanding your budget and choosing a vehicle, and activity (HPDE, autocross, door-to-door, time trials), that fits comfortably within it. Four years in on a 40-year old Datsun, I've found that balance in my own life.

Interested in more on-track Datsun Z action? Click here for a profile on the BRE 240Z.